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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I'm in the camp of buying random used chisels for like $1 each from yard sales, rummage sales, thrift stores, etc. because A) grampa died and nobody realized the contents of his messy basement were a goldmine, or B) people are lazy and don't bother to sharpen things and then think they suck when they just need to be possibly re-ground and then sharpened, and C)it'll force you to learn to sharpen immediately and that will be an essential skill for long-term chiseling happiness.

Also it's way cheaper but that's a side-benefit. Also this goes for basically all hand tools except perhaps saws which can be a pain in the rear end to sharpen depending on their design, so I prefer a new saw.

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Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
So I'm planning on building a bar/tool storage in my garage/mancave. I don't know if this really qualifies as "woodworking" because it's pretty much just going to be 2x4s and OSB (and hopefully I can find something reasonable to use as a bar top), but I have a lot of questions about framing. I tried to lay out the design and put everything in in a manner where it seems reasonably supported, but I really have no idea if I'm using too much matieral, or not enough, or if some runs of wood should be longer, or if "omg you have to put a support there or it will collapse" type deal. There are 3 major features that I would like to support. One is just an "open" end for a premade tool chest to go, second is a space for a mini fridge, and third is a space large enough to roll my lawn mower (collapsed handles) into, through a "door" on the outside.

Check out these mockups and tell me what looks dumb as gently caress and needs to be changed: https://imgur.com/a/TWygr1r

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Looks fine to me. If anything it's probably overbuilt for its purpose.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




The way you’re doubling up the 2x4s on some of the lower shelves is definitely overkill.

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler

Picturing people sitting in a fancy room with delicate crystal glasses, checking the bouquet and swirling around . . . there is a silver bucket for spitting.

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Leperflesh posted:

god drat those sure cost a lot more in 'stralya, even accounting for currency conversion. I've got one (just the basic one with out all the extra tomfoolery) and I think it was ~US$60 and I thought that was pretty hefty of a price. It's definitely working great as a table saw pushblock.

I'll just add that it induces you to do a thing that I regard as a risky habit, which is to push your arm past the spinning saw blade, as opposed to using a push stick. Push stick feels less in control, has less grip, etc. but it's safer to not be leaning across the active blade, so I'd encourage you to keep using a push stick (perhaps with a feather board) whenever doing so is possible, and reserve the GR-RIPPER for cases where a push stick doesn't work.

As for the sled: melamine-coated particle board will work, but you must keep it away from any moisture, and, there are times where it's nice that the piece you're cutting doesn't want to slide around on the sled quite so easily. I just made a sled I'm pretty happy with out of baltic birch ply, dunno if you can get that inexpensively in aussie land tho but any reasonably nicely-surfaced plywood should do the trick.

Cheers for the advice. We get reasonably good ply for reasonable pricing.

There's also local goods and services tax, import duty, and then profit margin on anything we buy here. So you pay up to 10% import duty on imports depending on the case, 10% VAT, and then you pay the Australia tax which is basically retailers jamming you for extra money

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.

Sockser posted:

The way you’re doubling up the 2x4s on some of the lower shelves is definitely overkill.

I asked my dad about it when I started designing and he basically said to support every horizontal joint from below when possible and "2x4s are cheap." We have different definitions of cheap so I would gladly eliminate some or all of the extra supports if they aren't needed.

Also is there any reason for me to use anything other than simple butt joints (or with pocket holes)?

Elysium fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Dec 6, 2019

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

The 2x4's are overkill if the shelf supports are in dados or mortise and tenon or something. If it's all just screws or nails, it's a good idea to have what are essentially cripple studs under the shelf supports.

Your dad is approaching it from a stud framing/construction mindset and that is a good way to do it. It's simple and comically strong, and easier to build (because butt joints are being supported, in this case).

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Dec 6, 2019

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Hypnolobster posted:

The 2x4's are overkill if the shelf supports are in dados or mortise and tenon or something. If it's all just screws or nails, it's a good idea to have what are essentially cripple studs under the shelf supports.

Your dad is approaching it from a stud framing/construction mindset and that is a good way to do it. It's simple and comically strong, and easier to build (because butt joints are being supported, in this case).

The first time I built an alcove window bed with storage inside it for my parents I had just come off my first house build and I was really worried it was going to squeak so I doubled up so many 2x4s lol. "Yea pops we're definitely going to need a king stud here :smug:"

He shakes his head a lot at me I have no idea why??

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Elysium posted:

So I'm planning on building a bar/tool storage in my garage/mancave. I don't know if this really qualifies as "woodworking" because it's pretty much just going to be 2x4s and OSB (and hopefully I can find something reasonable to use as a bar top), but I have a lot of questions about framing. I tried to lay out the design and put everything in in a manner where it seems reasonably supported, but I really have no idea if I'm using too much matieral, or not enough, or if some runs of wood should be longer, or if "omg you have to put a support there or it will collapse" type deal. There are 3 major features that I would like to support. One is just an "open" end for a premade tool chest to go, second is a space for a mini fridge, and third is a space large enough to roll my lawn mower (collapsed handles) into, through a "door" on the outside.

Check out these mockups and tell me what looks dumb as gently caress and needs to be changed: https://imgur.com/a/TWygr1r

Load-bearing lawnmower!

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Elysium posted:

I asked my dad about it when I started designing and he basically said to support every horizontal joint from below when possible and "2x4s are cheap." We have different definitions of cheap so I would gladly eliminate some or all of the extra supports if they aren't needed.

Also is there any reason for me to use anything other than simple butt joints (or with pocket holes)?

it's true that 2x4s are cheap, but 1x2s are cheaper and just as readily available at your big box wood store (take your time when buying lumber to pick through and only get the clear straight ones).

As-designed, I think your workbench would easily support a car.

e. also, and you probably already know this but just in case since your drawings have no measurements on them: you're fully aware of how "dimenional lumber" works and that a 2x4 is not, in fact, two inches by four inches. Right?


e2. for example I just checked my local home depot pricing and 96" 2x4s are $2.42, 1x3s are $1.58, and 1x2s are $1.14. Your total wood cost is going to be low for the structural members anyway, and maybe you don't mind just buying a dozen 2x4s and having some extra for other stuff, that's cool; but you could probably cut your low wood cost somewhat if you go with thinner wood for e.g. the bracing members. Using the thicker stuff for the cross members under the bench top will help to keep it totally flat, and for the corner uprights will give loads of strength which is nice.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Dec 6, 2019

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it
The bar top needs better bracing though. Either L brackets or more support on the back end; a T will twist and break as drunks lean on it.

plasticbugs
Dec 13, 2006

Special Batman and Robin
Woodsfolks of the forums, I just want to thank you all for the great suggestions a few pages back regarding the best approach for restoring my $5 thrift store Danish mid-century stool.

Before pictures:



After repairing the largest chip, I left the others as is. They were fairly minor and I think more patches would probably make it look worse, not better.

I stripped the tattered finish with CitriStrip, then after cleaning with mineral spirits, I gave it a good sanding to minimize the surface scratches. First with 120 grit, then 150 and finally with some 0000 steel wool.

I repaired the largest chip with the veneer I had from an assortment kit that was closest in color. I had one that had more closer matching grain, but the color was so light I was afraid it would be difficult to match, so I went with color over grain.

I applied several coats of Wipe-on Poly after a good sanding and cleaning with mineral spirits. Once it's fully dry, I'm going to give a good polish pass with a piece of brown paper bag (a tip I got from a YouTube channel that restores old furniture).

This is what it looks like now, it's a little shiny because the last coat of satin poly is still a bit tacky.


Close up of patch:


Thanks again for the advice, friends. Cheers!! I'll be back the next time I find some more treasures at the local thrift store.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
That looks way better than I was expecting it would, nicely done! Agreed that color match is the way to go there. I doubt you can tell that the grain is off without looking closely, but a color mismatch would be visible from a fair ways away.

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.

Leperflesh posted:

e. also, and you probably already know this but just in case since your drawings have no measurements on them: you're fully aware of how "dimenional lumber" works and that a 2x4 is not, in fact, two inches by four inches. Right?


e2. for example I just checked my local home depot pricing and 96" 2x4s are $2.42, 1x3s are $1.58, and 1x2s are $1.14. Your total wood cost is going to be low for the structural members anyway, and maybe you don't mind just buying a dozen 2x4s and having some extra for other stuff, that's cool; but you could probably cut your low wood cost somewhat if you go with thinner wood for e.g. the bracing members. Using the thicker stuff for the cross members under the bench top will help to keep it totally flat, and for the corner uprights will give loads of strength which is nice.

I'm using 1.5 x 3.5" for all of the 2x4s. The image should be exactly to scale.

I made some modifications, mostly just eliminating the doubled up vertical supports by extending horizontal beams where I could to go all the way across. And I threw in some 1x2s for middle supports instead of 2x4s:


JEEVES420 posted:

The bar top needs better bracing though. Either L brackets or more support on the back end; a T will twist and break as drunks lean on it.

Yeah I haven't quite figured that part out yet. I'm not even sure what I'm using for the top, but it's not going to be super wide, 12-16" max.

plasticbugs
Dec 13, 2006

Special Batman and Robin

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

That looks way better than I was expecting it would, nicely done! Agreed that color match is the way to go there. I doubt you can tell that the grain is off without looking closely, but a color mismatch would be visible from a fair ways away.

Thanks! I come to find out this evening that this is probably an Arne Jacobsen for Fritz Hansen 'dot' stool. I'm pretty sure it's the real deal because the stamp on the bottom (MADE IN DENMARK) matches the ones I'm seeing in my Google searches. Looks like I got a pretty good deal. Hopefully my restoration wasn't too ham-fisted.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Let's say that I wanted to try my hand at making a recliner, or at any rate a comfortable chair for lounging in by the fire. Of course this is going to involve a lot of upholstery and/or sewing cushions. Does anyone know of any plans for such a thing that don't look like an Adirondack chair or outdoor lounge chair?

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!

Elysium posted:

So I'm planning on building a bar/tool storage in my garage/mancave. I don't know if this really qualifies as "woodworking" because it's pretty much just going to be 2x4s and OSB (and hopefully I can find something reasonable to use as a bar top), but I have a lot of questions about framing. I tried to lay out the design and put everything in in a manner where it seems reasonably supported, but I really have no idea if I'm using too much matieral, or not enough, or if some runs of wood should be longer, or if "omg you have to put a support there or it will collapse" type deal. There are 3 major features that I would like to support. One is just an "open" end for a premade tool chest to go, second is a space for a mini fridge, and third is a space large enough to roll my lawn mower (collapsed handles) into, through a "door" on the outside.

Check out these mockups and tell me what looks dumb as gently caress and needs to be changed: https://imgur.com/a/TWygr1r

Using laminate for a workbench bar top isn't a bad call, you glue sheets on, then router the edge flush and add a trim piece on the end. Just be sure not to be like me and order laminate to be delivered and get it rolled up so tight you can't lay it flat :v:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Let's say that I wanted to try my hand at making a recliner, or at any rate a comfortable chair for lounging in by the fire. Of course this is going to involve a lot of upholstery and/or sewing cushions. Does anyone know of any plans for such a thing that don't look like an Adirondack chair or outdoor lounge chair?

I think recliners rely on a whole bunch of metal bars and springs and not a whole lot of woodworking, but a wooden recliner could be a really cool adventure.

I copied a very nice old wing chair that is great for fireside lounging, though I wouldn't begin to know how to go about the upholstery part of it. I have the plans/pattern somewhere but they aren't digitized.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Let's say that I wanted to try my hand at making a recliner, or at any rate a comfortable chair for lounging in by the fire. Of course this is going to involve a lot of upholstery and/or sewing cushions. Does anyone know of any plans for such a thing that don't look like an Adirondack chair or outdoor lounge chair?

The MAKE magazine rok-back chair is great.

I built one about a decade back for a bedroom lounge chair, but all I have are potato phone pictures.
I'd build another one or two if had need or space.

https://makezine.com/projects/make-19/rok-bak-chair/

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Dec 7, 2019

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I think recliners rely on a whole bunch of metal bars and springs and not a whole lot of woodworking, but a wooden recliner could be a really cool adventure.

I copied a very nice old wing chair that is great for fireside lounging, though I wouldn't begin to know how to go about the upholstery part of it. I have the plans/pattern somewhere but they aren't digitized.



That's really sweet and tempting to try and make as a gift for my mom this year hmmm

toplitzin posted:

The MAKE magazine rok-back chair is great.

I built one about a decade back for a bedroom lounge chair, but all I have are potato phone pictures.
I'd build another one or two if had need or space.

https://makezine.com/projects/make-19/rok-bak-chair/

Never heard of this, is it comfortable?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Never heard of this, is it comfortable?

I thought so at the time. It definitely needs the head/neck cushion which I didn't finish.




You can either do custom cushions, or it will also fit standard outdoor chair cushions.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Blindeye posted:

Using laminate for a workbench bar top isn't a bad call, you glue sheets on, then router the edge flush and add a trim piece on the end. Just be sure not to be like me and order laminate to be delivered and get it rolled up so tight you can't lay it flat :v:

That's how it's done. You unbind it and leave it lay for a day or two to unstress.

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!

Mr. Mambold posted:

That's how it's done. You unbind it and leave it lay for a day or two to unstress.

I unbound mine for a week, and when that didn't work I laid it flat on my work bench under weights.

Then it looked okay but when I fitted my pieces they curled up while the glue cured.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

JEEVES420 posted:

Anyone have recommendations on a decent ($100ish range) chisel set? I have a beater set of Irwins, but want something for nicer cleanup work. I have been looking at Narex but also liked the Kirschen I have used; granted I did not do the sharpening on those. Are Japanese style worth the money? My primary goal is dove tail cleanup and general cabinetry type work (cleaning up mortises, dados, etc).

I am much more a power tool user so hand tool quality confuses me.

I've got the Narex set. They're good, I would recommend them. If I were to buy again, I'd skip the set and just buy a couple. For me, as a hand tool nutjob, I most use the 5/8" (general purpose chiselry), 1/4" (cleaning out mortises, etc), and 1" (big and flat, for cleaning up small surfaces). The rest of the set is sitting in a drawer, still in the box. I have a separate 5/16 mortise chisel dedicated to mortising.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Blindeye posted:

I unbound mine for a week, and when that didn't work I laid it flat on my work bench under weights.

Then it looked okay but when I fitted my pieces they curled up while the glue cured.

That's why you use contact cement with that stuff. Did you not research it?

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Let's say that I wanted to try my hand at making a recliner, or at any rate a comfortable chair for lounging in by the fire. Of course this is going to involve a lot of upholstery and/or sewing cushions. Does anyone know of any plans for such a thing that don't look like an Adirondack chair or outdoor lounge chair?

A roorkee chair would be a nice choice, you wouldn't really be doing upholstery so much as leatherwork for the seat and backrest.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Let's say that I wanted to try my hand at making a recliner, or at any rate a comfortable chair for lounging in by the fire. Of course this is going to involve a lot of upholstery and/or sewing cushions. Does anyone know of any plans for such a thing that don't look like an Adirondack chair or outdoor lounge chair?

Meow Meow Meow posted:

A roorkee chair would be a nice choice, you wouldn't really be doing upholstery so much as leatherwork for the seat and backrest.

That reminds me actually, a Campeche chair is super comfortable and looks fairly simple to build (famous last words). I think the curves/joinery might be similar to the bed TooMuchAbstraction built?

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!

Mr. Mambold posted:

That's why you use contact cement with that stuff. Did you not research it?

I did use contact cement; what other glue would anyone use on laminate? Apply both sides, let it get dry-ish, slap together! Except the outer edges curled up before the glue set, and I had to put heavy weights down to even keep contact. Even then any areas not directly under extremely heavy weight never stayed together. 2 of the 5 panels ended up curling at the edges before the contact cement held it down and a third had a small bubble form despite me laying it flat on a perfectly flat security door for a week, followed by trying to keep it pressed flat by 30lb plates on top of a panel of plywood. Even right now 6 months later I have a 4ftx2ft section laid flat on my workbench I decided to leave after getting too angry at my project to finish and the 3 inches sticking out from under a bunch of heavy boxes is curling up.

All I'm saying is, be careful what you get because the tighter/longer the laminate panels are curled up, the less they want to lay flat.

FirstAidKite
Nov 8, 2009
Is this the kind of thread to post in if I'm looking to commission something from someone? I like watching woodturning vids but that's as close as I'll ever get to messing with any kind of woodworking. I wanted to get a price estimate for something but I'm not sure if anybody in this thread accepts work like that or if there are any specific resources for commissioning woodwork from people. Sorry if this isn't the right thread to ask something like this.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


FirstAidKite posted:

Is this the kind of thread to post in if I'm looking to commission something from someone? I like watching woodturning vids but that's as close as I'll ever get to messing with any kind of woodworking. I wanted to get a price estimate for something but I'm not sure if anybody in this thread accepts work like that or if there are any specific resources for commissioning woodwork from people. Sorry if this isn't the right thread to ask something like this.

:thunk: hmm, you're the first person I've seen ask, so it's not something we have a procedure for. It's getting a little close to SA Mart territory but I've done software commissions in the past so in principle I think it's fine.

The only thing I'd say is that it's fine to solicit that sort of thing in here (as that's where all the woodworkers hang out), but once you've made the connect it's on the two of you to take it off-thread and go from there. Buyer and seller beware, we don't provide any vetting or other transactional support.

More broadly, if there's enough desire for a more official thread where people can advertise their wares and/or wants (such as is in SH/SC) let me know and I can create something, though it would be much the same sentiment as the above.

Edit: I also don't want to speak for all the woodworkers, this is their community space after all, so if they find it distasteful to sully the purity of their art with talk of money then we can tighten up rules on that and carve out a space for it somewhere else.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Dec 7, 2019

FirstAidKite
Nov 8, 2009

Jaded Burnout posted:

:thunk: hmm, you're the first person I've seen ask, so it's not something we have a procedure for. It's getting a little close to SA Mart territory but I've done software commissions in the past so in principle I think it's fine.

The only thing I'd say is that it's fine to solicit that sort of thing in here (as that's where all the woodworkers hang out), but once you've made the connect it's on the two of you to take it off-thread and go from there. Buyer and seller beware, we don't provide any vetting or other transactional support.

More broadly, if there's enough desire for a more official thread where people can advertise their wares and/or wants (such as is in SH/SC) let me know and I can create something, though it would be much the same sentiment as the above.

Edit: I also don't want to speak for all the woodworkers, this is their community space after all, so if they find it distasteful to sully the purity of their art with talk of money then we can tighten up rules on that and carve out a space for it somewhere else.

Yeah, my hope was that maybe someone here would know of or would have run an SA mart thread for wooden stuff before and might be willing to take a commission. I'm sorry if I've stepped on anybody's toes or offended anyone but popping in to ask, I didn't mean to cause any trouble for the posters here or the mod.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Blindeye posted:

I did use contact cement; what other glue would anyone use on laminate? Apply both sides, let it get dry-ish, slap together! Except the outer edges curled up before the glue set, and I had to put heavy weights down to even keep contact. Even then any areas not directly under extremely heavy weight never stayed together. 2 of the 5 panels ended up curling at the edges before the contact cement held it down and a third had a small bubble form despite me laying it flat on a perfectly flat security door for a week, followed by trying to keep it pressed flat by 30lb plates on top of a panel of plywood. Even right now 6 months later I have a 4ftx2ft section laid flat on my workbench I decided to leave after getting too angry at my project to finish and the 3 inches sticking out from under a bunch of heavy boxes is curling up.

All I'm saying is, be careful what you get because the tighter/longer the laminate panels are curled up, the less they want to lay flat.

Well that sucks and my condolences. I put down a good country mile of that poo poo in my day and ran into various issues, but never like that. When we occasionally got a long piece assways on a counter or wall, the only solvent that really took it off was gasoline. sometimes.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


FirstAidKite posted:

Yeah, my hope was that maybe someone here would know of or would have run an SA mart thread for wooden stuff before and might be willing to take a commission. I'm sorry if I've stepped on anybody's toes or offended anyone but popping in to ask, I didn't mean to cause any trouble for the posters here or the mod.

No trouble caused.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
^^ edit perfect timing lol

FirstAidKite posted:

Yeah, my hope was that maybe someone here would know of or would have run an SA mart thread for wooden stuff before and might be willing to take a commission. I'm sorry if I've stepped on anybody's toes or offended anyone but popping in to ask, I didn't mean to cause any trouble for the posters here or the mod.

You're good JB has spoken, I'm not the person you want but what are you looking for?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Jaded Burnout posted:

No trouble caused.

The hell you say! Make zhim sweep out the shop!

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
jokes on you I LOVE manual labor

FirstAidKite
Nov 8, 2009

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

^^ edit perfect timing lol


You're good JB has spoken, I'm not the person you want but what are you looking for?

There's this old Rankin Bass Christmas special called Santa Claus is Comin to Town. In it, there's a scene where a mean old monster warlock gets a wooden toy train and his monstrous icy exterior melts and he becomes a much warmer, kinder person. I wanted to get one for a friend who really likes that movie and cried during that scene because it meant a lot to him and unfortunately the only train things I can find are these tiny little plastic versions of the toy that look like they come with special editions of the movie. I'd like to get him a proper life-sized version of it. It doesn't seem like it'd be complicated except for the paint, but I'm not a woodworker so I have no place to say whether it'd be complicated or not.


ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Bought $150 of nice, wide cherry to build a table. The table will be 3'10" wide, so obviously I asked them to crosscut the long boards to 3' lengths so it'd fit in my car.

...

:smithicide:

(I'm able to salvage it by using what ought to have been the offcuts instead of the nicest parts of the boards. Oh well, now I can make a nice 3' table, too...)

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Mr. Mambold posted:

The hell you say! Make zhim sweep out the shop!

I'll sweep you right outta this thread, young man

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