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Floppychop posted:I made the mistake of painting up some of the holiday mouselings for my parents and grandparents when cash was tight in college. Now they want something like that every year and I'm running out of options. I avoid the cheesecake or overly fantasy minis because the recipients are conservative Midwestern old people. This might be a little too fantasy, but Dark Sword does a bunch of little anthropomorphic animals that are of varying levels of appropriateness. They're not especially Christmasy, but there are a bunch that are "fairy tale" enough that you could probably get away with it. And really, who wouldn't want a hedgehog warrior swooping into battle via a leaf: 
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Dec 15, 2019 20:41
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| # ? May 10, 2024 00:17 |
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Clocks are a pain in the butt and good motivation for buying an air brush..  But I’m happy to be making progress
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Dec 15, 2019 22:21
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I painted a Hulk! 
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Dec 15, 2019 23:43
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The cat and dragon holiday miniatures for this year are all adorable and I'd love to get them, but there's no way I'm paying $50/each for one.
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Dec 15, 2019 23:51
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:YMMV but after finding it a bit hard to get nice smooth gradients with white primer I've switched to using paint for that layer. I use Stynlrez for black and grey primer but whatever you want to use is fine. Seconding this. I do black-grey stynylrez primer and as the mini is now sufficiently primed use white liquitex ink, which someone in this thread recommended.
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Dec 16, 2019 01:02
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SiKboy posted:Rattlecans? 
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Dec 16, 2019 05:09
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I'm about to start painting my fancy new plastic Sisters of Battle and feel like it's a good chance to relook at my normal basing method. Main problem is that I want something that's not hell to do in large numbers. Currently I'm using Vallejo ground texture and then base>wash>drybrush, but I feel like it needs something. Almost like it's too uniform. Here's an example of it on my Scions. 
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Dec 16, 2019 07:36
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Floppychop posted:I'm about to start painting my fancy new plastic Sisters of Battle and feel like it's a good chance to relook at my normal basing method. You could try gluing a few small cork chips to the base, which is what I did here:  It adds a bit of variety to each base without being more than a little extra work. The rest of the process is largely the same as what you're doing, I just use sand/ballast instead of textured paint.
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Dec 16, 2019 08:39
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Endman posted:You could try gluing a few small cork chips to the base, which is what I did here: Seconding this, just adding some random junk to the base goes a long way to breaking up the uniformity of plain texture paint (or sand). These guys have broken bark (the sort you get for putting on flower beds) and random junk from my bits box followed by blobs of Vallejo texture paint and GW Agrellan Earth, and then a few of them get grass tufts for extra variety. The painting is still a very quick base/wash/drybrush.  Other options include broken slate tiles, crushed oyster shells, aquarium gravel or just random small rocks and junk.
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Dec 16, 2019 13:34
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Thanks for the basing talk. That's the next thing I'm trying to work on. I've started brushing on Elmer's glue, dipping the base in sand, and then painting. I just picked up some army painter tufts for my next project but using cork is interesting. What is a good way to do your base to look like a road? Just paint the base grey and maybe add a paint stripe or two? I want a way to make a more urban looking base.
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Dec 16, 2019 15:16
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Meeple posted:Seconding this, just adding some random junk to the base goes a long way to breaking up the uniformity of plain texture paint (or sand). These guys have broken bark (the sort you get for putting on flower beds) and random junk from my bits box followed by blobs of Vallejo texture paint and GW Agrellan Earth, and then a few of them get grass tufts for extra variety. The painting is still a very quick base/wash/drybrush. A good post. It’s amazing how much a little base accoutrement adds to the final product.
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Dec 16, 2019 16:12
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When people talk about gluing things to bases, what kind of glue is best? I think I've heard watered down Elmer's white glue, is that right?
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Dec 16, 2019 16:17
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I use raw elmer's to glue down things like sand to paint over or flocking. If I am attaching objects or something like tufts I often use superglue instead.
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Dec 16, 2019 16:30
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Werix posted:What is a good way to do your base to look like a road? Just paint the base grey and maybe add a paint stripe or two? I want a way to make a more urban looking base. Vallejo has a textured paint that looks exactly like asphalt. It's finer than the usual "earth" textures so it looks just right. I think the texture is as important as the color for roads.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:50
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Furism posted:Vallejo has a textured paint that looks exactly like asphalt. It's finer than the usual "earth" textures so it looks just right. I think the texture is as important as the color for roads. Black Lava. it's really good.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:00
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Recently I picked myself up some Gorilla Super Glue, and Tamiya Extra Thing Cement Glue. I was curious, are one or both of these okay to glue plastic pieces together over Citadel paint or should you ideally avoid that if you're going to be assembling pieces after painting?
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Dec 16, 2019 18:00
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plastic cement won’t work well at all with paint in the way, super glue will still work but not as well as exposed plastic. either way you’re gonna save yourself some pain if you just take a file and scratch the paint off the contact points
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Dec 16, 2019 18:02
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Werix posted:Thanks for the basing talk. That's the next thing I'm trying to work on. I've started brushing on Elmer's glue, dipping the base in sand, and then painting. I just picked up some army painter tufts for my next project but using cork is interesting. Furism posted:Vallejo has a textured paint that looks exactly like asphalt. It's finer than the usual "earth" textures so it looks just right. I think the texture is as important as the color for roads. I did exactly this.  The texture paint is Vallejo black lava. If you like a rougher road surface, you can glob it on straight. I let it try a few minutes, then pressed it flat with a piece of cardboard to give it a smoother texture. After that, light grey drybrush, then hand-paint your road markings and you're all set.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:09
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Ben Nerevarine posted:When people talk about gluing things to bases, what kind of glue is best? I think I've heard watered down Elmer's white glue, is that right? Dont water it down. Apply raw PVA (or elmers/craft glue/white glue/wood glue or whatever you want to call it), put on your covering (I usually superglue down any really big rocks, but sand/small bits of gravel/sawdust flock/foam flock/static grass all goes fine onto PVA), leave to dry. Paint if required. Sometimes once the glue dries people will give it a quick spray of watered down PVA to make it extra secure which might be what you are thinking of, but I rarely bother when basing, I only do that for terrain. I figure that the extra security isnt worth the extra hassle when I'm literally never going to touch that miniatures base covering again (plus I'm going to hit it with a couple of coats of varnish anyway), as opposed to terrain where you are going to put model bases on top of the covering at least occasionally. If you are gluing then painting (eg coating with sand then making it look like black and gray urban rubble or whatever) then be a little careful basecoating it, if your paint is too watery it can reactivate the glue and move the covering around. Particularly if you are like me and tend to not give it enough time to fully dry because you are so near finished you get impatient. If you put the sand on before you spray undercoat then this isnt an issue because the spraypaint helps hold it in place.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:33
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Makes sense, thanks!
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Dec 16, 2019 18:34
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I used to do bases by painting sand in various ways and I have to say that one of my better choices was switching to using basing products that don't involve that; now I just pain the base an appropriate undercolor (like dark green for grass, brown for dirt, etc) and then use PVA to attach the base material. This is the kind of stuff I am talking about, although I guess be aware that GF9 basically buys big quantities of this stuff from places that supply railroad modelers and repackages into smaller portions at a markup for wargamers. I am fine with that because I am never going to need more than a little jar of arid grass, so paying $20 for 10 times as much is not actually a great deal. Edit: This isn't to say the sand+paint is at all bad, it is just more steps and takes generally longer to complete, so this switchover saved me quite a lot of time.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:39
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SiKboy posted:If you are gluing then painting (eg coating with sand then making it look like black and gray urban rubble or whatever) then be a little careful basecoating it, if your paint is too watery it can reactivate the glue and move the covering around. Particularly if you are like me and tend to not give it enough time to fully dry because you are so near finished you get impatient. If you put the sand on before you spray undercoat then this isnt an issue because the spraypaint helps hold it in place. Thank you for this! I encountered the same problem with the sand moving around last time I painted and couldn't figure out why, and this makes sense. How long should you let the glue dry before painting? Or does it not matter and just make sure the paint isn't watery?
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Dec 16, 2019 19:20
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Werix posted:Thank you for this! I encountered the same problem with the sand moving around last time I painted and couldn't figure out why, and this makes sense. How long should you let the glue dry before painting? Or does it not matter and just make sure the paint isn't watery? Honestly I'm not sure how long to leave it, I doubt there is a hard and fast number. It'll depend on how warm it is where you are, how humid it is, how much glue you used, and probably if you were gluing sand vs gluing sawdust. All I can tell you for sure is "Leave it until you think its dry, then give it a bit more time". This is a problem I still have because as I say I'm usually basing as more or less a final step before varnishing and I get impatient for the finish. Which is when the glue gets reactivated and/or I accidentally get black paint on the miniatures feet. Less haste more speed and all that. Basically let the glue fully dry, and paint it quickly more by dabbing/stippling than with brushstrokes, and trying to avoid your brush hitting bits you have already painted. This should minimise the problem at least!
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Dec 16, 2019 19:45
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SiKboy posted:Honestly I'm not sure how long to leave it, I doubt there is a hard and fast number. It'll depend on how warm it is where you are, how humid it is, how much glue you used, and probably if you were gluing sand vs gluing sawdust. All I can tell you for sure is "Leave it until you think its dry, then give it a bit more time". This is a problem I still have because as I say I'm usually basing as more or less a final step before varnishing and I get impatient for the finish. Which is when the glue gets reactivated and/or I accidentally get black paint on the miniatures feet. Less haste more speed and all that. I hear you, I'm the same, I leave basing for the last step right before I spray finish on it. At that point I just want the model done and I'm just impatient. I'll do less watering down of my paint and more dabbing paint on.
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Dec 16, 2019 21:51
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Tonights painting started out as a colour test for next months project But I decided to base coat a few more at the same time:  Be rude not to do the lot right?  Super quick scheme: code:
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Dec 17, 2019 00:12
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Trip report! I based with static grass as normal, then added cilantro leaves and then some Celestial Seasonings rooibos tea straight from the sachet. Finally, a good use for cilantro 
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Dec 17, 2019 03:40
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moths posted:Trip report! The paint job itself is incredible with a great scheme and precise execution. The basing is itself delightful and the variety in plant basing meshes beautifully with the theme of the model. Are those varnished/finished/sealed?
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Dec 17, 2019 05:35
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That tea and herb base thing has really been taking off lately and all im saying lots of goons going to be all shocked at the family dog loving up their space dollies looking for olive garden
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Dec 17, 2019 07:09
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Werix posted:What is a good way to do your base to look like a road? Just paint the base grey and maybe add a paint stripe or two? I want a way to make a more urban looking base. Black sandpaper. I got one with a grain matching the scale I wanted and just paint the stripes on it. Don't have a picture of mine available, but it is a big thing for train modellers and there are tons of examples online.
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Dec 17, 2019 08:48
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virgin contrast warrior vs the chad heavily drybrushed plague marine one day i will find the patience (and fix my tremors) long enough to learn how to paint and not just be salty at gw rules team richyp posted:Tonights painting started out as a colour test for next months project inspiration as always
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Dec 17, 2019 12:06
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Are those varnished/finished/sealed? Thanks! And not yet, I still want to do a few minor tweaks and then seal the whole unit when it's done.
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Dec 17, 2019 13:33
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queef anxiety posted:virgin contrast warrior vs the chad heavily drybrushed plague marine that Nurgle Boi looks like he's really into synthwave
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Dec 17, 2019 17:57
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queef anxiety posted:virgin contrast warrior vs the chad heavily drybrushed plague marine What was the process for the Plague Marine.
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Dec 17, 2019 18:36
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queef anxiety posted:virgin contrast warrior vs the chad heavily drybrushed plague marine I like both of them and slightly prefer the left side more tbh
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Dec 17, 2019 19:57
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Speaking of basing talk, I like to use Vallejo's oxid paste to give my bases some variation and make them look less flat, especially before using crackle paints like agrellan earth. However, there's one step I consistently forget. First I prime, then I lay the paste down, then I paint it brown. At this point, it is important to put a layer of matte sealer down before going for the crackle paint. Otherwise, you'll have the problem I keep having: The crackle paint dries, cracks, and takes the brown paint with it, leaving bright red fissures. It's not super difficult to fix, but it make things more difficult than they need to be.
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Dec 17, 2019 20:45
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Dicking about with contrast medium for tonights speed painted dude. Starting from Death Guard Green Primer this guy was done in 1hr 26m Here's a few in between shots to show the progress over the 90mins. Thinned to water Wyldwood over DG Green primer.  VMA Gunmetal and some VMA Silver brushed on to the err metal bits  Wraithbone on the bits that will be bony  Wash of Seraphim Sepia, and a bit of Aethermatic blue on the smoke and the coil of the gun  Some 1k Sons Blue, an edge of Barry and some stippled Orange and brown on the armour.  Glowy bits with a base of Lugganth Orange on the lenses, followed by a soaking of the surrounding area with Watered down Blood Angels Red.  Glowy bits edged back with Lugganth Orange and some Wyldwood + Valhallan Blizzard on the base.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:08
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Cat Face Joe posted:What was the process for the Plague Marine. Base with temple guard blue, wash with dameonette hide and lahmian medium, wash with medium and screamer pink . Heavy Dry brush Temple guard blue, dry brush gauss flayer green on edges and wherever you feel like.
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Dec 17, 2019 23:29
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I'm almost done with this jetbike, I think everything you can see is done. Just gotta do the gun underneath, and the rider. I also started on a knight, pretty excited for it.
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Dec 18, 2019 07:16
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My fiancee hinted last night that she bought me the Start Collecting box of Thousand Sons, plus more minis besides (assuming Scrab Acult or exalted sorcerers) for Christmas. So I'll have all that, eight genestealers, and 10 Neophyte hybrids to build and paint coming up here.
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Dec 18, 2019 13:12
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| # ? May 10, 2024 00:17 |
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I lost the instruction sheet for a GW miniature. It's a bit of a complicated mini (the Rockgut Troggoths), with lots of customization options, so it's a nightmare to figure it out. Is there anyway to get the PDF somewhere?
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Dec 18, 2019 14:14
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