|
Grizzled Patriarch posted:What's the recipe for your red? Prime a brick red, preshade shadows with dark blue, hit highlights with white, hit the entire thing with a coat of yellow, then a couple coats of VMA 71.102 red. Gloss varnish, wash the entire thing with gloss nuln. Maybe do some highlights with an ochre.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 01:10 |
|
|
# ? Jun 13, 2024 01:53 |
|
Thank you for the help deciding which air brush to get.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 01:58 |
|
Ben Nerevarine posted:This guy: Hm. How well does it pop back up after being folded? The cheapo one I got (different brand) gets really finicky about standing up and staying in place, and the lights are just two thin LED strips that don't work as well as I'd like.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 02:23 |
|
Slimnoid posted:Hm. How well does it pop back up after being folded? The cheapo one I got (different brand) gets really finicky about standing up and staying in place, and the lights are just two thin LED strips that don't work as well as I'd like. It starts out folded and holds together with interlocking tabs. It stands upright without a problem but the plastic isn't very heavy duty, it's explicitly portable. The circular arrangment of LEDs seems to work well enough
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 02:44 |
|
Ben Nerevarine posted:It starts out folded and holds together with interlocking tabs. It stands upright without a problem but the plastic isn't very heavy duty, it's explicitly portable. I might give it a go. If nothing else, the circular LED set-up will probably give a more even form of lighting than my current set-up.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 03:32 |
|
Booley posted:Prime a brick red, preshade shadows with dark blue, hit highlights with white, hit the entire thing with a coat of yellow, then a couple coats of VMA 71.102 red. Gloss varnish, wash the entire thing with gloss nuln. Maybe do some highlights with an ochre. Is that for real? You coat the whole thing in yellow? I, and the world at large, would be fascinated and pleased to see you do a YouTube painting tutorial.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 05:51 |
|
JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Is that for real? You coat the whole thing in yellow? Yes, I coat the whole thing in yellow - it turns the blues in the preshade into greens, which go well with reds for shading, and balances out some of the magenta tones in the final red. This is the tutorial I base that process on: https://www.themightybrush.com/article/how-to-paint-blood-angels-part-i/ I'm unlikely to do any video tutorials, but we do lots of walkthroughs of different techniques on goonhammer.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 05:54 |
|
Ben Nerevarine posted:This guy: That's basically what I have, mine was by PULUZ but looks very identical. (probably made by the same Chinese factory) Its pretty decent and you're not gonna get better unless you spend $100+ on your light box. Slimnoid posted:Hm. How well does it pop back up after being folded? The cheapo one I got (different brand) gets really finicky about standing up and staying in place, and the lights are just two thin LED strips that don't work as well as I'd like. The one I have, it took a minute to learn how its supposed to fold up. Once you get it, it takes like literally ten seconds to fold or unfold. Very portable / stowable.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 07:19 |
|
darnon posted:The 105 Xtreme would be the one to pick in the sale. It's an upgraded version of the Patriot with their high roller trigger and integrated air valve. The sotar 20/20V with its larger paint cup and .3 needle also actually might not be bad for a general airbrush unless you plan on using it for bigger vehicles or terrain. Even then there is a larger needle/nozzle available. I got the 105 Xtreme recently and so far I’m really liking it. I can get nearly as fine detail as the sotar but it’s easier to clean and less finicky about the paint. I was surprised how much the high roller improved my control, I might get one for my regular patriot.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 08:33 |
|
Booley posted:I'm unlikely to do any video tutorials, but we do lots of walkthroughs of different techniques on goonhammer.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 10:10 |
|
Thoughts? https://twitter.com/HeroForgeMinis/status/1217117837111595008?s=20 full disclosure, I do know people involved in this (not me personally)
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 10:45 |
|
Alan Smithee posted:Thoughts? It's cool, I'll probably use the tool for planning colours etc, but I'm not seeing it as a killer app for mini design, just because it's crazy expensive even for the printed-coloured minis. I'm pleased they're charging an actually-good rate for the painters' time on the handpainted ones but I very much doubt they'll sell a lot. There are definitely characters I'd buy a custom mini for though; it's crazy hard in particular to find wizards without staves and big stupid hats.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 13:06 |
|
Alan Smithee posted:full disclosure, I do know people involved in this (not me personally) quote:Alan Smithee
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 13:06 |
|
I'm a bad director not a bad dungeon master
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 13:07 |
|
So do people ever put "effects" on their minis? Like I have this bard, and I had this idea that maybe it'd be cool to somehow put something around their lute that makes it look like its being played/music is coming out.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 14:08 |
|
jesus WEP posted:On what now Goonhammer.com
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 14:29 |
|
Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:So do people ever put "effects" on their minis? Like I have this bard, and I had this idea that maybe it'd be cool to somehow put something around their lute that makes it look like its being played/music is coming out. Yesh, there are entire armies that basically demand it. Google death guard modification.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 14:30 |
|
Alan Smithee posted:Thoughts? It looks very cool and certainly I can see the appeal for people who want a very specific miniature and don't want to have to paint it themselves; the 3D color printing looks better than I would have expected. It does look like it's going to be pretty pricey though - not compared to actually have a miniature customized and painted in the traditional way, just in absolute terms - so not sure it will pick up a huge amount of steam. I hope it does well, maybe the price will come down on this sort of work to where you can more reasonably custom-print larger numbers.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 15:44 |
|
Bucnasti posted:I got the 105 Xtreme recently and so far I’m really liking it. I can get nearly as fine detail as the sotar but it’s easier to clean and less finicky about the paint. Tell me more about the fancy trigger and how it stacks up against the base 105's model. I can't tell if I've just acclimated to it more than anything, but consistently feel like I've got better control over my 105 than my Sotar.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 15:52 |
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:What do you guys use for cracked earth textures on bases? All the videos I've seen generally point to Agrellan Earth, but I was hoping there was a cheaper alternative. I've got some DecoArt crackle paint but it doesn't seem to give the same sort of cracked earth texture that the GW stuff does. Just found this, maybe it could work for you? https://imgur.com/a/ewhqA
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 16:08 |
|
grassy gnoll posted:Tell me more about the fancy trigger and how it stacks up against the base 105's model. I can't tell if I've just acclimated to it more than anything, but consistently feel like I've got better control over my 105 than my Sotar. I hear yeah, and I feel the same way, I took the CK studios 101 airbrush class last year and they told me to exclusively use the 105 for the class mini, so I learned to get really fine control with it. Now I vary rarely break out the Sotar anymore, that's why I got the Xtreme since I was used to the 105 already I figured I'd get great results with it. The longer trigger means that there's more range of motion in your finger control, so you do need to pull it back farther to get paint to flow, but it also means that you have more fine control over the amount of paint. It takes some getting used to, especially how far back you have to pull the trigger to start getting flow but now I'm really liking it.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 16:40 |
|
Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:So do people ever put "effects" on their minis? Like I have this bard, and I had this idea that maybe it'd be cool to somehow put something around their lute that makes it look like its being played/music is coming out. gently caress yeah I live for cool poo poo like that Music is a tricky one! Maybe like a ribbon... Oh man, if you made little greenstuff music notes and put them on the ribbon, like a staff of music flowing out of the lute...
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 17:44 |
|
Staff of music is a cool idea. I was thinking of like, small translucent tubing/stand with small notes on the end positioned so they surround the lute. But 1. I don't know if small music notes even exist and 2. I don't know if any kind of stiff translucent tubing exists either.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 18:49 |
|
Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:Staff of music is a cool idea. I was thinking of like, small translucent tubing/stand with small notes on the end positioned so they surround the lute. But 1. I don't know if small music notes even exist and 2. I don't know if any kind of stiff translucent tubing exists either. I saw something similar with this elf bard mini. It's got a translucent... something, coming out of an instrument.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 18:55 |
|
Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:Staff of music is a cool idea. I was thinking of like, small translucent tubing/stand with small notes on the end positioned so they surround the lute. But 1. I don't know if small music notes even exist and 2. I don't know if any kind of stiff translucent tubing exists either. Greenstuff! Make your own music notes. Should be easy. I can't sculpt but simple shapes are easy. Ball + snake = music note
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 19:13 |
|
That Elf Bard is a pre-industrial noise marine.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 19:15 |
|
I can't really stop thinking that I want a leg lamp from A Christmas Story, but with sexy Shalaxi Hellbane legs.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 19:28 |
|
Did you paint that? What's your technique for the leg muscles? Did you just basecoat with one color or did you layer?
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 19:39 |
|
Phi230 posted:Did you paint that? What's your technique for the leg muscles? Did you just basecoat with one color or did you layer? Yeah, that's just probably a trick with the lighting, It's just a dark basecoat with 3 layers: top is Violet, middle is Fulgrim Pink and the bottom is the contrast purple.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 19:43 |
|
Alan Smithee posted:Thoughts? Is $150 dollars, from "I have an idea but my mini does not exist" to fully painted miniature, a good price assuming a fairly good paint job? I've had a couple of people offer me ~50 dollars to paint up a mini for them and I wonder both if I am over/undercharging my friends and how much extra I should ask for if I'm loving around with 3d modeling and printing.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 19:47 |
|
Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:Is $150 dollars, from "I have an idea but my mini does not exist" to fully painted miniature, a good price assuming a fairly good paint job? I've had a couple of people offer me ~50 dollars to paint up a mini for them and I wonder both if I am over/undercharging my friends and how much extra I should ask for if I'm loving around with 3d modeling and printing. Can you paint a mini in under 3-4ish hours (depending on minimum wage in your location)? If so, you're charging a reasonable amount. If not, you're not charging enough.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 19:50 |
|
Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:Is $150 dollars, from "I have an idea but my mini does not exist" to fully painted miniature, a good price assuming a fairly good paint job? I've had a couple of people offer me ~50 dollars to paint up a mini for them and I wonder both if I am over/undercharging my friends and how much extra I should ask for if I'm loving around with 3d modeling and printing. Charge at least minimum wage, ideally more like double or triple minimum wage, given that you're using very specialised skills. People undercharging for creative stuff is a huge problem - but it's a self-fulfilling one, unfortunately.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 20:06 |
|
Alan Smithee posted:Thoughts? Not for me but seems very reasonable if quality is consistent with the mockups. I like HeroForge a lot and think that's gonna be a big draw for people who wanted a custom mini but were scared to paint and didn't want to reach out to commission independently.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 20:36 |
|
Hero Forge Color is absolutely a service me and my friends would use for their D&D minis, without question. At the Kickstarter prices, it seems like its actually a steal if you're fine with the general "tabletop quality" appearance of the 3D printed minis, and I don't think I'd balk at $150 if there was a mini I truly wanted custom painted by someone who knew what they were doing. I've considered it in the past for having something that would be show quality to have on display in my apartment because I'm a nerd.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 22:49 |
|
Probably a dumb question but does zenithal priming / underpainting have any noticeable effect if you're doing a traditional base / layer / shade / highlight type of painting, or is it really only worth it if you're glaze painting? I've seen a few good tutorials on the process but I've noticed that in all of them the person went on to just build up glaze layers on top of it, so I'm curious if it's actually worth the extra effort otherwise.
|
# ? Jan 15, 2020 23:26 |
|
Grizzled Patriarch posted:Probably a dumb question but does zenithal priming / underpainting have any noticeable effect if you're doing a traditional base / layer / shade / highlight type of painting, or is it really only worth it if you're glaze painting? I've seen a few good tutorials on the process but I've noticed that in all of them the person went on to just build up glaze layers on top of it, so I'm curious if it's actually worth the extra effort otherwise. Not really, it's still useful as sort of a guide if you're painting that way, but it will probably be almost entirely covered up.
|
# ? Jan 16, 2020 00:05 |
|
Grizzled Patriarch posted:Probably a dumb question but does zenithal priming / underpainting have any noticeable effect if you're doing a traditional base / layer / shade / highlight type of painting, or is it really only worth it if you're glaze painting? I've seen a few good tutorials on the process but I've noticed that in all of them the person went on to just build up glaze layers on top of it, so I'm curious if it's actually worth the extra effort otherwise. I think it could work if you accept the zenithal priming as basically the final paint for some areas, like armor plates. You can then layer the trim and details and stuff around that, but leave the base armor the same zenithal colors. You could use a wash or a very thin coat on top, although that's basically turning into a glaze.
|
# ? Jan 16, 2020 00:46 |
|
Does anyone have a favorite air brush cleaning tutorial? I've been airbrushing for a few years now (self taught) and its something I still really suck at doing well and it always makes me want to just not use my airbrush for anything more than priming and base coating armies.
|
# ? Jan 16, 2020 01:23 |
|
Vince has two good airbrush cleaning tutorials. One for quick cleaning, like for color swapping or short uses and one for more general cleaning advice. The first video is extremely useful and both shows you how to get paint out of the brush correctly but also that you're likely not thinning your paint nearly enough. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEIJs1c4bsQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bCjgMrZzMw
|
# ? Jan 16, 2020 01:29 |
|
|
# ? Jun 13, 2024 01:53 |
|
If you ever want a deep catalog on a modelling subject, Scale Model Workshop is the place to go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWFoG5Inmw
|
# ? Jan 16, 2020 01:49 |