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Colostomy Bag posted:You might get free health care across the pond, but my god I can get 20% off on a car battery. Looks like your condition is... terminal.
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Jan 25, 2020 20:00
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Jaded Burnout posted:Looks like your condition is... terminal. Positive to be honest.
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Jan 25, 2020 20:06
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C-Bangin' it 
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Just make sure the terminals are on the proper side and connected to the proper cables, otherwise you'll get a shocking surprise. Beyond that, it just has to fit the available space (physically).
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Jan 25, 2020 20:40
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STR posted:Just make sure the terminals are on the proper side and connected to the proper cables, otherwise you'll get a shocking surprise. Beyond that, it just has to fit the available space (physically). Technically it needs to have a minimum CCA rating, but I don't think it's realistically possible to actually buy one too low unless you get something comically tiny?
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Jan 25, 2020 21:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm pretty sure it's pre-OBD2 and even if it's not, a lack of a cat means that light should be perma-on anyway. The permanent CEL ship has already sailed on this van from other horrors previously done to it (not the missing cat, though). I have the bulb removed but kept on hand so I can pull codes when I do fluid checks and mess with it periodically I don't know which "side", but it's the hole under the thing on the left here  This is not my photo but this is pretty accurate to what is there in my engine, arrow to the thing that I mean  The thing I propose to build is basically this http://stores.hi-potek.com/egr-block-off-plate-and-plug-3-9-5-2-5-9-dodge-magnum-intake-manifold/ Javid fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jan 25, 2020 |
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Jan 25, 2020 21:52
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STR posted:Just make sure the terminals are on the proper side and connected to the proper cables, otherwise you'll get a shocking surprise. Beyond that, it just has to fit the available space (physically). This, and the heaviest fucker you can find. CCA will follow.
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Jan 25, 2020 22:39
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Javid posted:The permanent CEL ship has already sailed on this van from other horrors previously done to it (not the missing cat, though). I have the bulb removed but kept on hand so I can pull codes when I do fluid checks and mess with it periodically Yeah I doubt that commercial block off is even 1/8 thick. Send it. I'm pretty sure you're blocking the exhaust side though I'm having trouble visualizing how the hell that valve gets exhaust from where it's at. Must be a pipe running from a manifold to it.
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Jan 26, 2020 04:06
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I know a lot of Sprinter owners have done the soda can block off before.
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Jan 26, 2020 06:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah I doubt that commercial block off is even 1/8 thick. Send it. Yep. Not my pic but this is the fix demonstrated on a disassembled engine (  there's a pipe from the exhaust to the threaded hole where the arrow is, and the orange circle is the hole in the block(?) under the part the mechanic removed. As near as I can tell, enough stuff has broken off my valve that there's just exhaust farting into the doghouse, which is horrifying but also explains why it's been getting so loving hot. Javid fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Jan 26, 2020 |
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Jan 26, 2020 08:45
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If it's leaking exhaust into the interior, you might also want to consider yanking that pipe and putting a plug into the exhaust manifold instead.
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Jan 26, 2020 15:36
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Question: I just advised someone not to jack by the lower control arm to avoid damaging ball joints. Was this overly cautious?
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Jan 26, 2020 19:09
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Weird issue on 2012 Mazda. The car seems to drive sluggish when the fuel tank is <25% compared to when its full.. looks like there may be two filters in the tank, could this be a pump issue? Maybe too much sediment in the tank?
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Jan 26, 2020 19:31
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Bank posted:Weird issue on 2012 Mazda. The car seems to drive sluggish when the fuel tank is <25% compared to when its full.. looks like there may be two filters in the tank, could this be a pump issue? Maybe too much sediment in the tank? Sediment shouldn't matter as far as fuel level goes - it's always pulling from the same place. Have you removed the fuel cap when it's getting sluggish? I'm wondering if you have a vent/evap issue and are pulling a vacuum once you get down that low on fuel.
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Jan 26, 2020 19:35
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Question: Yes. Though if you're going to lift by the LCAs, do it at one end or the other, not in the middle. And obviously not directly on the ball joint bolt.
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Jan 26, 2020 19:39
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STR posted:Yes. Though if you're going to lift by the LCAs, do it at one end or the other, not in the middle. And obviously not directly on the ball joint bolt. The LCA is literally a factory jacking point in a ton of ford trucks, and the emergency bottle jack is shaped to engage with a notch in the front/outside of it. That being said, I wouldn't be using a stamped LCA as a jacking point, but if it's forged like the ones I'm talking about I wouldn't have an issue with it. That issue would not be "ball joint damage" it would be LCA damage.
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Jan 26, 2020 19:47
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Right on, thank you. I’ve always done it myself when rotating tires on light trucks and cars, in this case it was “some big jacked up dodge or something, it’s at a weird angle and slope” and I was lending out my floor jack and stands to a buddy to do a favor for his buddy’s dad. Too many unknowns and I wasn’t there.
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Jan 26, 2020 20:00
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:in this case it was “some big jacked up dodge or something, it’s at a weird angle and slope” All bets are off once you get into (lovely sounding) lift kits that reuse too many components left at janky, ball-joint-eating angles in order to be cheaper/faster to install.
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Jan 26, 2020 20:03
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Motronic posted:All bets are off once you get into (lovely sounding) lift kits that reuse too many components left at janky, ball-joint-eating angles in order to be cheaper/faster to install. Yeah, I don’t gently caress with hosed-with suspension.
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Jan 26, 2020 20:16
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Motronic posted:Sediment shouldn't matter as far as fuel level goes - it's always pulling from the same place. I haven't. Wouldn't a bad cap cause a check engine light though? I remember my wife's old Corolla needed 3 clicks and even if you did just 2 the light would come right up. I poured a bunch of Techron concentrate on an empty tank this morning. Seems to be driving better, but I think it's due to the full tank, not the Techron.
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Jan 26, 2020 20:53
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Bank posted:I haven't. Wouldn't a bad cap cause a check engine light though? Eventually, but it's not just a bad cap that can cause what I'm suggesting. Evap only runs under some very specific scenarios, most frequently being dead cold, with somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 of a tank of fuel, plus some other things. On most ECUs it has to fail a few times before it sets a MIL. So......maybe you just haven't gotten a light yet? It may have a pending code in there.
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Jan 26, 2020 22:00
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I have a 2011 VW Jetta SEL and about a month ago when it was very cold (like -10f) the oil light started blinking red and beeping. It would only do this right when I started to drive after warming it up for a few minutes and would only do the beeps once and then turn off so I figured it was just some wonkyness due to the cold and would immediately go away. Also It only does this when leaving my driveway which is on a fairly steep incline, when leaving work it has never happened. Now today when it's quite a but warmer it did the same thing so I am a bit worried, the car has around 100k miles on it and I bought it used a few months ago so this is the first winter I have driven it in is this something I should immediately stop driving now or maybe try replacing the sensors or something? I dont really know much about cars but the oil levels and everything are fine and the car seems to start and run fine.
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Jan 26, 2020 22:02
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2006 Mazda 3, silver. What do I replace so that when I roll the windows down and up again, the water gets brushed off?
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Jan 26, 2020 22:50
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Bank posted:
Heh, was just going to suggest trying Techron. Let it "try" to do its job for 3/4 of the tank. What are your fill-up habits? Let it hit around 1/4" tank or OMG need to keep it constantly topped off?
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Jan 26, 2020 23:24
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Charles posted:2006 Mazda 3, silver. It's called a "window scraper" for most makes. It's that trim/seal piece on your door at the bottom of the window on the outside.
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Jan 26, 2020 23:50
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Looking for a car that I fit in, is reasonably sporty/not boring, and has enough head and leg room for my 6'8”/300 (and dropping) pound rear end. 2010 Audi A4 wagon, S Line Kit, fully loaded. Full service recordsfrom dealership down to wiper blade replacement, 130k on the body and 60k on the engine due to the oil oil consumption recall. Asking $10k firm. I want your gut reaction, consider it or run the gently caress away?
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Jan 26, 2020 23:55
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What are you expectations and ability to pay for operating costs? I wouldn't run away, but I'd be prepared to be spending more than it takes to service a $10k Camry. I would also spend the money on a PPI. Maintenance history just tells you what WAS done, not what else might have needed doing.
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Jan 27, 2020 00:02
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Colostomy Bag posted:Heh, was just going to suggest trying Techron. Let it "try" to do its job for 3/4 of the tank. Yeah I don't know anymore, this seems like something transmission related, unfortunately. 1 in 5 drives the car drives like a champ. 4 out of 5 it struggles with high RPM shifting. If I let the auto shift slowly into the gear then gun it, it's fine. I already cleaned out the throttle body and replaced the MAF in the past few weeks which fixed some other issues (surging at idle, not starting etc) but this shifting thing seems like a different beast. I may take it in for them to just check it out.. Other places online say Mazdas stutter at high RPMs but it just seems too harsh in my case (huge jerking, almost like the mounts are bad, but they're not).
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Jan 27, 2020 00:25
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Last time plugs were changed?
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Jan 27, 2020 00:49
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Colostomy Bag posted:Last time plugs were changed? 2 weeks ago  Ignition coils were replaced ~1 year ago Bank fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jan 27, 2020 |
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Jan 27, 2020 01:00
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Motronic posted:It's called a "window scraper" for most makes. It's that trim/seal piece on your door at the bottom of the window on the outside. Oh now that I look, it's totally obvious, duh. Thank you. Looks like it's one piece with the molding / weather stripping.
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Jan 27, 2020 01:53
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OK, it finally wasn't raining so I could have the multiple layers of engine cover sitting outside while I performed some exploratory surgery. I was expecting some more entertaining scorching, but it's only seen about 20 minutes of run time since installation so it makes sense.  This is where the thing that broke bolts onto:  Gasket and temporary bypass as removed with the valve:  Here's where that pipe comes from:  The melted plastic on it and the patched vacuum lines on the lower left are related. So if that's a thing I can just literally remove forever and not have a burning hot pipe right there, good. The other end of the pipe:  I tried to get that off to trace it for a patch plate, but my basic ratcheting wrenches I had out weren't up to it and I'm not worried enough about it to get out the gently caress you tools. I got like a quarter turn out of the front one, with better leverage it would've been fine but  So if I correctly understand all the internal mechanics of this series of tubes here, if I were to slap a fresh gasket + matching hunk of plate on both of those locations, I can throw away the rest of the broken bullshit and be done with "the EGR valve" as a thing that can gently caress up again? addendum question: how much of this wad of vacuum lines and other weird poo poo is similarly redundant compliance parts for requirements that don't apply to me? There just aren't smog checks where I live, and if they changed that law tomorrow I'd be hosed anyway, because no cat(?) plus whatever other problems, so if I can go ahead and tidy up my engine bay + preemptively remove points of failure, I'm into it.
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Jan 27, 2020 02:51
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Bruc posted:I have a 2011 VW Jetta SEL and about a month ago when it was very cold (like -10f) the oil light started blinking red and beeping. It would only do this right when I started to drive after warming it up for a few minutes and would only do the beeps once and then turn off so I figured it was just some wonkyness due to the cold and would immediately go away. Also It only does this when leaving my driveway which is on a fairly steep incline, when leaving work it has never happened. Perhaps your driveway is at just the right angle to starve your oil pickup a smidge? Or maybe it's the other extreme and your crankshaft is foaming your oil. I've never had the misfortune of a steep driveway 
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Jan 27, 2020 03:01
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06 xA here The battery is being drained by the turn signal chime even when the key isn't in the ignition. Flashing the brights or turning the lights on stops the sound, and turning on the hazards makes a horrible grinding noise Furthermore, the lights for the turn signals, hazard flashers, marker lights, and brights never actually come on when they stop the chime
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Jan 27, 2020 04:35
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The Door Frame posted:06 xA here The grinding noise makes me think you've got a bridged relay somewhere. Open up your fuse box, set a condition that produces the grinding noise, and start fondling the relays and see if one of them is vibrating. You're going to want to check your lighting relays first of course.
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Jan 27, 2020 04:40
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Beach Bum posted:The grinding noise makes me think you've got a bridged relay somewhere. Open up your fuse box, set a condition that produces the grinding noise, and start fondling the relays and see if one of them is vibrating. You're going to want to check your lighting relays first of course. And vibration means that it's fried, right? It's hard to test because I can't seem to charge the battery faster than the chime drains it
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Jan 27, 2020 05:00
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The Door Frame posted:And vibration means that it's fried, right? It's hard to test because I can't seem to charge the battery faster than the chime drains it Basically yeah. Do you have a trickle charger on the car? I would just pop the negative cable off the battery for a little while. Also the chime should not be draining the battery at any kind of appreciable rate, you might have something more serious afoot.
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Jan 27, 2020 05:41
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The bad relay could also cause some of the lighting to stay on/come on randomly when parked. That's where I'd start.
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Jan 27, 2020 17:32
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I was actually trying to jump start it while attached to my own running car, so a good amount of juice was flowing in as the battery just died. I suppose there's nothing else for it besides getting the battery charged and chasing down the gremlins in the lighting relays
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Jan 27, 2020 17:40
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Motronic posted:What are you expectations and ability to pay for operating costs? I wouldn't run away, but I'd be prepared to be spending more than it takes to service a $10k Camry. Definitely taking it for a ppi, and I know repairs here and there plus routine maintenance will be more, but on the other hand, I'm finally in a position to set aside repair funds and not drive a 20 year old shitbox. Maybe it's worth going for something a bit newer and throw some extra at the loan.
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Jan 27, 2020 18:13
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GWBBQ posted:Definitely taking it for a ppi, and I know repairs here and there plus routine maintenance will be more, but on the other hand, I'm finally in a position to set aside repair funds and not drive a 20 year old shitbox. Maybe it's worth going for something a bit newer and throw some extra at the loan. It's a pretty great feeling when you get to that point. Here's a thread that may help you narrow your options down https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Jan 27, 2020 18:34
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