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Does your condo policy covers water damage? Burst pipes in the walls can get tricky because of the condo owner and AOAO playing the blame game.
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Sep 18, 2019 01:47
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Nah it was pretty unambiguous, the owner 2 floors up was at fault. She left her bathtub on and flooded three different apartments below her and her own. The strangest thing is that the insurance company did not even bother trying to subrogate the cost to the party that was at fault. Like, Liberty Mutual never even asked me for that lady's contact info or insurance company info. Any other insurance company would have had to admit fault. It's free money that they never went for.
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Sep 18, 2019 04:32
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Another super weird thing Liberty Mutual did is paid out a huge sum for temporary housing for us for 15 months, while they fought us over the claim and endlessly requested more documents. Then when they finally stopped and did a soft denial, they pulled the housing away with it (and gave us a week's notice to move everything out), forcing us back into our still-demolished home. The company chose to locate our temporary housing in an incredibly expensive apartment complex in a prime university location in the middle of neighborhood that serves shoppers from Bel Air. They gave us a corner unit. 2 bedrooms for 16 months. Those units go for around $7,000 a month. So unless that landlord gave them a great discount due to their relationship or due to a crisis of too many vacancies, then Liberty Mutual blew around $112,000 just to house us while they needlessly fought us, not to mention all the extra paid hours their claims workers had to spend fighting us. Plus the $17,000 they paid for storage of furniture packed out during the relocation. They could have instead paid our claim from day one and only paid out a maximum $50,000, ever. Why even wait for our condo association to come around about paying their part? Just save 50 grand the other way. I figured someone in upper management would have a lot of questions about why our claim was handled the way it did in a way that it somehow costed Liberty Mutual for more to deny our claim than not to. But no one has responded to us about it no matter how high we escalated. Oh well, glad they lost money from doing that to us.
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Sep 18, 2019 04:37
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Don't lawyers often work on contingency for cases like that?
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Sep 20, 2019 20:38
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Hey, I apologise if this isnt the correct thread, but I could use a bit of an idiots guide to surviving US health insurance. I'm looking at moving from Australia to the US. I've always used the public system in Australia and essentially never had to think about it. The employer I'd be joining offers insurance which at a basic level seems alright, in that copays for routine stuff and specialist appointments in network seem low enough to be manageable, and an out of pocket maximum that seems low enough that while it will really suck (in more than the obvious way) if I get hit by a car or something and dragged to an out of network hospital, it's not going to bankrupt me. I want to know if there's any big obvious gaps I'm missing, eg is there anything I need to be sure of that could bust past that yearly out of pocket maximum? Is there a bunch of extra fine print I need to be careful of to make sure an in network specialist appointment actually only costs me $copay instead of $copay + $somethingridiculous?
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Oct 1, 2019 06:08
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A Banana posted:Hey, I apologise if this isnt the correct thread, but I could use a bit of an idiots guide to surviving US health insurance. US Health Insurance is more fine print than health insurance. Your summary of benefits is nearly pointless outside of a few key facts, your actual plan document is more the size of a small phone book. They process things by hand to inject errors into the process, they are never in your favor. You should always assume something stupid is going to happen. If and when you call your insurance to find out the cost of things you need this information: Procedure code (CPT Code, like 99213), Diagnosis code (ICD-10), Provider name, address, license level (MD, NP, Psy.D), and the amount billed. They need to give you back, and you need to write down, name, date, time, reference number, maximum allowable amount, and if it is subject to your deductible, and if you need any of kind of authorization or if there are other maximums you can hit. All calls are recorded, use this to your advantage. If they tell you something favorable, stop pressing the issue. The term you will need if it comes back to haunt you is "promissory estoppel." They can pull the call recording, you will wait. It doesn't matter what their website says, call them anyways to verify. Basically any time you aren't seeing just 1 in-network doctor in their office you should expect some kind of stupidity to happen. Even then you need to know if it's "subject to your deductible" or not. For example, my current insurance has a $30 copay for specialists and that is what I pay. Others might say you are first subject to your deductible, meaning you have to expend all $500 or $5000 or whatever of your deductible first. If a in-network doctor tries to bill you for excess costs tell them no and take it up with your insurance company if they won't give you a $0 bill, it's against their contract. It's called "balance billing" and it's not OK. (In the example below the most you could ever owe this doctor is $100.) Out of network get ready for a wild ride. Remember above the "maximum allowable amount?" Well that is all your insurance considers out of the bill you receive, regardless of amount and it could be significantly less than in-network. $500 bill, $100 max allowable, and a $500 deductible after which you pay 10%? Your bills are as follows: $500 ($100 towards deductible), $500, $500, $500, $500 - ding deductible hit - $410 ($90 paid by insurance, $10 by you, and $400 also by you), $410, etc. When you hit your "max out of pocket" (which is now $10/visit) it will drop to a mere $400/visit. This is a purposefully large example. You should ask your providers if they can work with you on the cost. Everything is negotiable, but they might just tell you "no." Their cash price might be lower. Ask for a coded bill regardless and mail that sucker in and see if your insurance will pay you anything. Next up, hospitals - avoid them. You will go to an in-network hospital which employs basically 0 doctors. Assuming you're under the care of your in-network doctor there that is all fine and well, but anesthesia is almost certainly some random contractor who is not an employee of the hospital and will bill you out of network for their services. If you need a procedure done, try to get it done not at a hospital if it makes sense based upon your risk factors. Surgery centers are much cheaper, but not appropriate for open heart surgery. If you're having a routine procedure done, make sure your provider gets you a full list of costs including all ancillary things like facility fees, anesthesiology, lab work, etc, with approval codes from your insurance. Emergency room visits for actual emergencies are fun and exciting and you will be fighting to get it covered as in-network for months. I had a fun time arguing with my insurance company when they told me I should have found an in-network ambulance after their nurse line said "call 9-1-1".  Sound hosed up? It is.
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Oct 1, 2019 06:35
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I now work in BOLI (Bank-Owned Life Insurance) which means I deal with an esoteric product inside of an esoteric product so I look forward to browsing this thread and still having next to no interaction with it.
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Oct 1, 2019 18:02
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Sub Rosa posted:Don't lawyers often work on contingency for cases like that? If it's anything like Auto, most probably won't touch it since there's no money to be made in property damage claims. Injury attorneys work on contingency because they can actually put a lien on the settlement they get. Honestly, if that poster thinks Liberty Mutual was wrong in denying the claim, complain to the state Department of Insurance.
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Oct 11, 2019 20:50
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I’m looking to do auto insurance subrogation and arbitration management type stuff - is anyone in that line of business? I’ve done it but not in 8 years or so..
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Oct 13, 2019 04:04
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Infidel Castro posted:If it's anything like Auto, most probably won't touch it since there's no money to be made in property damage claims. Injury attorneys work on contingency because they can actually put a lien on the settlement they get. That would be a bad faith which does involve big dollars but it sounds like one of those stories that gets made up and passed around by people who don't understand insurance. Little harm in getting a lawyer on board to work purely on contingency though since if there's no merit to it, they'd be wasting their own time.
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Oct 13, 2019 05:32
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karma_coma posted:I’m looking to do auto insurance subrogation and arbitration management type stuff - is anyone in that line of business? I’ve done it but not in 8 years or so.. I’m not specifically in there but I’ve dealt with a lot of subro and arb stuff, what are you looking for?
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Oct 13, 2019 16:30
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tangy yet delightful posted:Debated posting here or the insurance thread.
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Oct 16, 2019 06:29
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As it turns out my USAA home insurance will cover the belongings during the move from wreck/fire/theft. If I just pack lovely it won't cover broken stuff but everything else will be covered which will be good enough for me.
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Oct 21, 2019 23:09
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tangy yet delightful posted:As it turns out my USAA home insurance will cover the belongings during the move from wreck/fire/theft. If I just pack lovely it won't cover broken stuff but everything else will be covered which will be good enough for me. Check if that's ACV, ARV, or $0.10/lb. (The latter is not a joke, it's the default insurance option for movers in California.)
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Oct 21, 2019 23:13
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H110Hawk posted:Check if that's ACV, ARV, or $0.10/lb. (The latter is not a joke, it's the default insurance option for movers in California.) It's ARV. At least my home coverage is and the guy on the phone didn't say it would be different (that said I'll call again tomorrow just to double check).
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Oct 22, 2019 00:39
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Purchasing condo insurance for the first time. Can anyone help me suss out fluff from value in these policies? I'm not familiar with them. Right now I'm through USAA, who I believe might not be horseshit for home insurance either. I'm in the Bay Area. Not really knowing much beyond the tooltips this is the quote I built using their tool:   
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Nov 7, 2019 05:34
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Poco posted:No, you're well within your rights to hold out signing over until after your cars are inspected. Generally fires are OTLs (obvious total losses) and full estimates will very likely not be done (would need photos/video showing extent of damage to your dad's garage and your car/bike- if it was minor and you are looking at smoke damage definitely hold out- the worst you'll need is interior/instrument replacement, at best it's going to be a detailing and/or some upholstery replacement. If you have the husk of both vehicles left, then yeah, I'd probably personally recommend signing them over unless you know some who would pay over their salvage value damaged frames. Late thanks, but I appreciate your advice. The bike was a lump of char and the car was parked outside but completely melted on one side - obvious total-loss but otherwise mechanically fine. For the record, and posters looking at this in the future, I held off on signing/sending anything until I heard from the adjuster via email. She was fantastic, and worked with the glam photos I had taken of both vehicles after a recent detail to get me a higher condition level than what was originally quoted. Both the car and the bike were very low mileage in my area judging by the comparison examples they quoted me on, as well as having apparently rare factory options because they could not find any local examples of the respective packages. This all added up to a nice payout that I agreed to as soon as I had it in writing, and signed/sent the pinks at that time. Took about two weeks and I had my checks.
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Dec 14, 2019 03:35
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Does someone have a primer on purchasing term life insurance? Or should we just use one of those brokers - they tend to cold call every so often.
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Jan 6, 2020 16:17
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Sab0921 posted:Does someone have a primer on purchasing term life insurance? Or should we just use one of those brokers - they tend to cold call every so often. I am not an insurance pro. (I am writing this under pressure by a ticking timebomb of a baby getting hungry.) Shop around aggressively, make sure you read quotes in annual terms - which is not monthly * 12 (it's less!) If anyone won't tell you an annual payment price tell them to put you on their do not call list. Don't agree to the nurse visit until you see a trend in pricing, then pick the people who have reasonable rates and a high credit score for the band(s) you are likely to land in. If you're a high risk person then you should consider if you want to combine various sources of life insurance, such as employer offered guaranteed issue. High risk means any tobacco use in the past few years, high blood pressure, overweight, diabetes, etc. Any long term medical condition. If you have concerns around this ask them what their underwriting guidelines are for various bands. We made it into the top tier by like 3lbs and despite me having asthma so it's not a deal breaker so long as things are under control. You only need Fixed Term Life Insurance. That's it. Four times a year our company sends us a letter offering us a special deal on a lifetime of insurance. You may get a hard sell for those products ("universal" or "lifetime" or "whole" or "gently caress you pay me") and if they do not accept a firm but polite "no" then see above about the do not call list. How much you need and for how long is a personal decision. You (shouldn't be) aren't trying to set people up for a huge windfall if you die. You should be trying to take care of your financial needs for your dependents in case of your untimely demise. This could be as simple as paying off your mortgage and getting the college funds in order if you have a spouse who is able to work. If you need to provide a lifetime of income to a non-working spouse then you will obviously need more. Remember that your needs go down over time - you pay down your mortgage, grow your retirement, deposit into the college funds, your spouse will simply live fewer years every year you manage to hang on to living, etc. Rules of thumb are around 10x income - but might be more or less depending on personal circumstances. You can also layer policies - a 10yr and a 20yr policy for a total of $1.5MM as a $500k/10 and a $1.0MM/20 for example. This might be cheaper than one 20 year policy for 1.25MM. There are various riders you can add, let them pitch you, such as covering your children etc. They're generally not going to be useful but they aren't outright scams. Return of Premium always sounds juicy but unless you're super bad at budgeting it's better to just save the spread in cost. If you outlive your policy and it cost you $1000/year for 20 years you get a tax-free check back for $20k. That same policy without ROP could have been like $600 or something. Why not invest the difference? So: What are you trying to accomplish here by being a responsible adult?
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Jan 6, 2020 16:41
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Thank you for the detailed post - to answer your question - We have an 18 month old son and I want to ensure my wife and baby are taken care in the event something happens. My wife works, but I'm the primary breadwinner - she brings in about $80k ($60k after taxes) a year - we owe about $300k on the mortgage and have no other debts. We take care of my mother-in-law who doesn't work and her expenses come to between $25k-$30k a year depending on the level of vet bills and prescription medicines she needs in a given year. At the core level - I want her to have enough money to pay off the house and take care of her mother for as long as she needs it. I'm not worried about my son's education - his other grandparents will provide for that if something happens to me. I have about $350k worth of insurance from work - and am now looking bridge the gap - but not sure what is actually necessary, and what would provide the best protection to cover those items.
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Jan 7, 2020 05:29
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Sab0921 posted:We take care of my mother-in-law who doesn't work and her expenses come to between $25k-$30k a year depending on the level of vet bills and prescription medicines she needs in a given year. Does taking your mother-in-law to the vet save a lot on her expenses? 
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Jan 7, 2020 15:31
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Dango Bango posted:Does taking your mother-in-law to the vet save a lot on her expenses?  I woke up thinking of this joke. Sab0921 posted:Thank you for the detailed post - to answer your question - We have an 18 month old son and I want to ensure my wife and baby are taken care in the event something happens. My wife works, but I'm the primary breadwinner - she brings in about $80k ($60k after taxes) a year - we owe about $300k on the mortgage and have no other debts. We take care of my mother-in-law who doesn't work and her expenses come to between $25k-$30k a year depending on the level of vet bills and prescription medicines she needs in a given year. You really should let your mother in law see a human doctor. That $350k in insurance from work: You shouldn't rely on this. In the event you are incapacitated and unable to work prior to your death this vanishes. It's nice icing on the cake but I wouldn't include it in your calculations. I assume this is some multiple of your salary, either 1.0 or 2.0, so you make $150k in annual salary, around 2/3 of the take home in your family. Gross numbers are easier to work with here. From here you need to look at the total amount you want to replace, and for how long. There are various calculators for this, and it's where I quickly run out of direct knowledge. I would also buy some on your spouse, maybe around half or a third of what you put on yourself - You will thank yourself if you want to take a year off to deal with the ramifications of losing your spouse. What did I do? With similar numbers to you, but only a 1.0x multiplier on the work insurance, I bought $1MM for myself and $500k on my spouse on a 25 year term. No MIL expenses though. We have healthy retirement accounts, healthy emergency savings, and are generally unlikely to die of a health related issue. (Knock on wood!) This put us through a theoretical, now real, second child getting out of the house. The cost on a 30 year jumped substantially, so I guess I know when I'm way more likely to die, and it didn't seem worth the extra 5 year spread. I probably could have a done a 20 year but my wife was already a bit nervous about doing fewer than 30 years so we split the difference. Talk to a broker in person, use a fee-for-service fiduciary financial planner, or numerous calculators online to come up with a good estimate of your needs.
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Jan 8, 2020 01:43
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Simplest way for term life is 10x annual salary. However, if you're only going to do this once, which should be the case if you do it right, then it's worthwhile figuring out what your actual needs are. I'd first add up any outstanding debts you want to cover. So if you wanted to pay off the house, then you're starting with $300k. Then you'd add to that any other money you want to set aside for future one time expenses, like college, retirement funds, etc. The next part is having enough left over that, if invested, would be able to cover any ongoing expenses. So figure out annual spending, subtract from that your wife's salary, and multiply that by 25 to get a rough estimate of the lump sum needed to invest to be able to withdraw 4% a year and sustain that level of spending over an extended time frame. Now, some expenses may go down if you're not around, but some may go up, i.e. any stuff you take care of around the house or with childcare that either she'd have to do or would need to pay for help with. This is probably the trickiest part of the calculation, and small differences will have a large change in the total amount you need, but I argue for estimating on the higher end since term life is cheap. Final thing is the term, or how long you need it, which should be until you think you'll have saved enough to be financially independent. Hopefully you've got a sense of this already, but if not, now's a good time to figure that out. Then go to a site like Term4Sale or Policy Genius, put in your information and get initial quotes. Choose the cheapest policy that meets your needs from a reasonable reputable company (A- rating or better), and request to get contacted by insurance brokers. Realize that there's still a chance they'll try to upsell you on a more expensive policy with various riders and whatnot, but come equipped with the knowledge that you're getting this for one reason and one reason only: to provide for your dependents in the event of your death, and that the simplest term life policy will do that. Go with whichever agent you find easiest to work with and they'll take you through the process. Would also agree that you should get some sort of policy for your wife as well. First, she does have a significant income, so unless you'd be ok living on your income alone, you may want to have some money invested to replace it. Second, if she's doing a lot of the home front/childcare stuff, realize that it's unlikely that you're going to suddenly be able to take that on alone, and you'd want additional money to pay for the help you'd need in her absence. That's why both people in a couple with kids should generally get term life policies, even if one isn't making an income, though the amount of coverage needed for a non-working spouse would be lower because you're trying to cover additional services only, not lost income.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:59
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Delete
Nohearum fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Jan 18, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 04:38
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I got hit a short while ago. Was having a little trouble getting in contact with the other person's insurance, so I said gently caress it and filed through my own insurance (I have full coverage). Claim is all done and paid out. Got a letter a bit ago saying they're sending the subrogation package over, and that it could take a while to recover the deductible (if at all). So with that, how long should I wait before I call and pester my insurance company about recovering my deductible? Also if I never get it back from my company, do I file a claim with the other party's insurance to recover it, or has that ship sailed?
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Jan 30, 2020 22:10
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DaveSauce posted:I got hit a short while ago. Was having a little trouble getting in contact with the other person's insurance, so I said gently caress it and filed through my own insurance (I have full coverage). Your company should be taking care of everything from here on out. If you just got the letter today, you could call the rep handling it to ask about timeline.
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Jan 30, 2020 22:38
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DaveSauce posted:I got hit a short while ago. Was having a little trouble getting in contact with the other person's insurance, so I said gently caress it and filed through my own insurance (I have full coverage). Is the other parties insurance a real company or someone who underwrites high risk people? (Is the other party "state farm" or "the general"?) For the former my various claims took around a month. Check just randomly showed up in the mail and I was happy.
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Jan 30, 2020 22:43
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DaveSauce posted:I got hit a short while ago. Was having a little trouble getting in contact with the other person's insurance, so I said gently caress it and filed through my own insurance (I have full coverage). Has the other company accepted liability and is their coverage in order? The answer to this question means the outcome can range from “never” to “‘maybe a week or two”
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Jan 30, 2020 23:55
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Dango Bango posted:Your company should be taking care of everything from here on out. If you just got the letter today, you could call the rep handling it to ask about timeline. Nah, I got the letter a while ago, a bit before Christmas I think. Accident happened late October, and the body work for me had finished up right before Thanksgiving. I figured I'd ask real people how long this typically takes instead of calling up and getting the disinterested, scripted response of, "This could take up to 15 years" or whatever. H110Hawk posted:Is the other parties insurance a real company or someone who underwrites high risk people? (Is the other party "state farm" or "the general"?) For the former my various claims took around a month. Check just randomly showed up in the mail and I was happy. I'm on State Farm, they're on "Union Insurance Company," whatever that is. The claims rep I spoke with way back said he never heard of it so that was awesome. The police report listed name and policy number, but no contact info, so I googled it and found several potential options and wasn't sure which. Called them all and none of them were able to help, hence the "gently caress it" and me filing a claim with my own insurance. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Has the other company accepted liability and is their coverage in order? The answer to this question means the outcome can range from “never” to “‘maybe a week or two” Not sure! Story I was told during the initial investigation is that we both claimed we had green lights, but neither of us could prove it (no cameras, and no witnesses stopped). But by the manner in which they hit me my insurance company said they were 100% at fault and that I was in the clear. edit: so without digging up the letter, what I remember it saying is that my insurance company's investigation is complete and that they'll be sending the subrogation package over, and that I might possibly get my deductible refunded in some time frame that I think was up to 1 year or something (oh but don't hold your breath). I don't recall if it said that both companies had agreed on liability or not. I expect that they wouldn't be sending a subrogation package over if they hadn't agreed on liability, but I don't know how all that works. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 13:47
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Alright, well, that changes things. Your company completed a liability investigation and placed the other driver at fault. You also got paid, so there were no issues with your coverage. The other company would also make sure their drivers coverage was in order right off the bat. While they have an insurance card to you or the police, it could have cancelled for nonpayment, that specific driver could have been excluded, etc. Basically that company has to confirm everything is in order according to the insurance policy sold. SF may or may not know this information if your adjuster hasn’t been able to get in touch with them. If they don’t have coverage in order they may still be investigating (doubtful this late) or they may wind up denying coverage entirely. The next piece is the liability component and that sounds like it’ll be the rub. Since there were no cameras, witnesses, etc. it might end up being a word vs word scenario. The other company may completely deny any liability for your damages or say their driver was x% at fault. Depending on your state and their decision, this could mean your recovery could be 0% to 100% or any possibility in between. Now, if the other company denies coverage then SF will attempt to recover back their money and your deductible from that person directly. As you might imagine, there is not a great amount of success in doing this as people who don’t pay for insurance or otherwise try to beat the system often don’t have much in the way of assets. SF would likely discontinue efforts to recover back their money and your deductible at some point because it’s no longer cost effective to do so. At that point you’d get a letter saying you have to try and get your deductible back yourself through such channels as small claims court. If the other company has coverage in order but denies liability then SF will likely either try to negotiate a liability agreement between the two parties or send it to arbitration, if the other company is a member. The small carriers often aren’t, and I’ve never heard of this company either. For the negotiation, SF could potentially agree on something like the other party being 80% at fault (totally made up number) in an effort to recoup some of their money. In this case you’d likely receive 80% of your deductible back. If SF and the other company can’t agree on a liability decision and they’re a member of arbitration, a third party company’s adjuster such as GEICO or Allstate will review all the information provided by both companies and make a binding decision. Depending on the outcome of this you could get anywhere from 0%-100% back! If they aren’t a member of arb and they tell SF to pound sand, SF could elect to sue them, but this is incredibly unlikely to happen unless they paid a ton of money for your damages due to the cost of pursuing legal action. Likely they would drop the recovery efforts and you would be left to pursue your deductible from the other party directly. I would call your SF adjuster and ask them if the other insurance company has coverage in order and what their liability was. What state was the accident in? Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 14:07
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State is NC. That's interesting, I assumed we got to this point because things were more or less wrapped up and that the time for dispute has passed. I can't imagine putting together and sending over a subrogation package is worth the effort if the other party is just going to dispute liability, but again I dunno how this all works. Alternatively, I'm remembering the letter wrong, or I wildly misinterpreted what the letter said. If it matters, at one point a claims rep with the other company called me to talk and gather info (but I referred them to State Farm because I had already given statements/documents/etc. to them and I didn't want to rehash it). I presume this means that they had already verified their client's coverage was active, but I dunno. So here's a question: if they do their negotiation thing and agree to some partial fault in order to avoid a legal battle, I assume I'll be punished for this via rate hikes and a ding on my insurance record? Or is that independent since State Farm had internally decided that I'm 0% at fault? I mean, I understand that fault isn't necessarily the sole determining factor of rates, but I'm curious at what sort of chance I have to avoid getting screwed. edit: Another question: if this gets to the point of them denying liability and I have to sue, who do I sue? The complicating factor is that this was a company owned pickup. Do I sue the driver, or the company? I have information for both... edit again: To go a step further, let's say I sue and win after the other company had denied liability. Would I call up my insurance company and give them the good news? Or would me winning my deductible (or some portion thereof) in small claims mean nothing in their case against the other company? DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 16:08
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Yeah if it happened just before Christmas that's not a long time in insurance land. Just relax and let your insurance company handle it. Check in with them every month if you want to know where they are at. I used to work in claims for an insurance company. Sending it to subro does not mean the other party has accepted liability. What it does mean is now your insurance company is going to argue with them in order to try to get them to accept liability. sheri fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 16:32
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DaveSauce posted:State is NC. The other company would likely do a liability investigation even if they hadn’t cleared coverage yet, so I wouldn’t bank on them talking to you as a guarantee they had coverage in order. SF’s liability decision wouldn’t change on their end if they had a negotiated amount, so it would still be a not at fault accident with them. However, a not at fault accident doesn’t always mean you rates won’t go up. Sometimes you have discounts like “5 years accident” free that you no longer qualify for. You wouldn’t see any change until your next policy renewal. Here is the big problem though. In NC, the state uses a type of negligence law called “Contributory”. This is a very consumer unfriendly law and is only in use by a very small number of states. In essence it means that if you contribute even 1% to an accident you are entirely barred from recovery from the other party. If the other company decides that their driver is 90% at fault you still are barred from any recovery (your deductible). This could go the way of arbitration as mentioned but if it’s a true word vs word scenario in a contributory locale I would bank on not seeing your deductible ever again.
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Jan 31, 2020 16:35
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sheri posted:Yeah if it happened just before Christmas that's not a long time in insurance land. Yeah, I kind of figured. If it were REALLY important to me, I would have filed a claim with the other party's insurance in order to avoid the whole deductible thing. I just don't want to wait and forget about it and call up in 6 months and find out that ship has sailed or something. It'd be nice to get that money back, but I'm not going to flip out over it. It's also just interesting to learn more about how the process works in the background. edit: big crush on Chad OMG posted:SF’s liability decision wouldn’t change on their end if they had a negotiated amount, so it would still be a not at fault accident with them. However, a not at fault accident doesn’t always mean you rates won’t go up. Sometimes you have discounts like “5 years accident” free that you no longer qualify for. You wouldn’t see any change until your next policy renewal. Yeah, that's one thing I'm vaguely aware of. Kind of annoying since a ticket for my wife just fell off last renewal, but probably better than paying for the repairs out of pocket. And I'm under no illusion that fault is the deciding factor for rates. It's ultimately about whether or not they make money off me, so if they don't recover the money then gently caress me I guess. Hopefully the fact that we have 2 cars + homeowners + some other stuff with them means they'll go easy on me. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Here is the big problem though. In NC, the state uses a type of negligence law called “Contributory”. This is a very consumer unfriendly law and is only in use by a very small number of states. In essence it means that if you contribute even 1% to an accident you are entirely barred from recovery from the other party. If the other company decides that their driver is 90% at fault you still are barred from any recovery (your deductible). This could go the way of arbitration as mentioned but if it’s a true word vs word scenario in a contributory locale I would bank on not seeing your deductible ever again. Ah of course, thanks NC! So the whole story, not that it really matters aside from me seeking validation, is that I was turning left and he was turning right coming from the opposite direction. I had a green arrow, he claims he had a green. The details are that I had nearly completed my left turn when he hit me (his left front bumper hit my rear passenger door). So regardless of the color of the light, he either didn't see me or he hit me on purpose (this wasn't exactly a high speed impact and should have been easily avoidable). I think that's State Farm's basis for assigning 100% fault to him, and I gathered from the claims person that even if his light was proven to be green then he still would have been assigned some fault by State Farm for failing to avoid hitting me. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 16:35
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I presently work for a Big Insurance Company. I pay something like $180/year for life insurance as a benefit. I think it's $250,000. I didn't have to take a medical exam. My family has a history of BRAC-2 mutation on my mother's maternal line. This mutation comes with a 3-5% increase in cancer risk for men and women. She had a great-great grandmother die of an unidentified abdominal cancer and another relative from that great-grandmother's matrilineal line is getting treated for early stage ovarian cancer. My mom got tested and she is negative as a carrier for the mutation. I started the process of getting a life insurance quote as a customer of Big Insurance Company, with the logic that I should get the policy now and hold it in case I do test positive, which could then increase my rates when I apply for life insurance. Since I'm negative for now, I figured the point is moot, but I wanted to ask in an insurance thread anyway. Should I be buying basic term life insurance for $500,000? I have no kids, our mortgage principal is around $216k, and my wife and I have around $490k in our retirement and brokerage accounts. I'm 37, she's 33. I did the medical exam and all, and got approved for the following terms: 10 years: $725 15 years: $765 20 years: $835 30 years: $1095 Seeing as I'm in reasonably good health (I got the standard rating, not premium, due to some non-life-threatening conditions that I take prescriptions for) should I be looking into this in case I leave the company? Or should I even be looking at life insurance right now at my age?
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Feb 3, 2020 20:53
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MJP posted:10 years: $725 You should always shop this around to your direct competitors. Depending on what the conditions are and how the impact mortality and your level of control over the condition it might be just your lot in life to have the standard rating unfortunately. You can just ask them directly what their rating criteria are given your history prior to doing the medical exam. You can also look at portability on your current $180/year $250k guaranteed issue. Combining this with another policy to get to 10x your income until you hit the steep premium jump age (looks like 20 years is the sweet spot for you) might net you a nice package. In the end though its your risk tolerance and what you want to take care of in the event of your untimely death. Mortgage? Lifetime of income replacement? Consider also getting your spouse a policy even if they don't work. She will likely be cheaper if she doesn't have anything major going on just given her younger age. You probably have to do it simultaneously if they don't work I forget how that works out.
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Feb 3, 2020 21:05
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Last April I went to a pain specialist due to severe shoulder pain I was having. Ended up being out-of-network and my insurance didn't cover a whole lot. I ended up with a cost around ~$2000 according to my insurer through their site. Thing is, I never received a bill. I've had bills in the past take about up to 6 months to reach me, but never this long. Should I be following up on this with my insurer or should I continue to wait? I'm sure I could pay online via the insurer's site but neither my insurance or the doctor has reached out to me about this bill.
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Feb 10, 2020 17:03
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Weaponized Autism posted:Last April I went to a pain specialist due to severe shoulder pain I was having. Ended up being out-of-network and my insurance didn't cover a whole lot. I ended up with a cost around ~$2000 according to my insurer through their site. Thing is, I never received a bill. I've had bills in the past take about up to 6 months to reach me, but never this long. Should I be following up on this with my insurer or should I continue to wait? I'm sure I could pay online via the insurer's site but neither my insurance or the doctor has reached out to me about this bill. Call the provider. Your insurance has done their part if they have issued an eob.
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Feb 10, 2020 17:26
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DaveSauce posted:
The other reason could just be that there's no confirmation on the light status at the time of the accident. State Farm, like most companies, is going to take your word over the other driver's because it's on them to prove you were at fault. The downside is if State Farm doesn't feel they have enough to prove the other driver was at fault, they'll probably drop it. From my experience with them though, they're more aggressive in pursuing these sorts of claims than other companies so who knows? Infidel Castro fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Mar 6, 2020 |
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Mar 6, 2020 20:36
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Funny timing on your reply, because 2 days ago I got a letter telling me that the claim is going to inter-company arbitration. The light status is literally the only thing in contention, to my knowledge. I say I had the green, he says he had the green, nobody has proof. gently caress me for not having a dash cam, I guess.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:36
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