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IOwnCalculus posted:I haven't because the noise hasn't gotten any worse, and now I probably won't before I sell the car. angryrobots posted:If you end up not using it, yeah I'll buy it off ya. I'm sure 12/13 is the same part? As I recall you were careful to find the updated actuator. Do you know if the updated part is CRV specific and would you have the part number either way? My '14 Si has the VCT noise sometimes on cold start. I haven't looked into it recently, but at the time Honda was just shrugging saying it was a non-issue and that an updated part would be in the works. Panty Saluter posted:The EP3 was a controversial change but I have a lot of love for it. Still want a dash shifter too 
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Feb 5, 2020 20:41
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Gay Weed Dad posted:Do you know if the updated part is CRV specific and would you have the part number either way? My '14 Si has the VCT noise sometimes on cold start. I haven't looked into it recently, but at the time Honda was just shrugging saying it was a non-issue and that an updated part would be in the works. It applies to a lot of K-series, dunno if the Si is different because of moar veeteks, but the part I bought is 14310-R5A-305.
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Feb 5, 2020 21:26
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Two different listings posted:2015 HONDA CROSSTOUR L4 2.4L
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Feb 5, 2020 23:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:It applies to a lot of K-series, dunno if the Si is different because of moar veeteks, but the part I bought is 14310-R5A-305. I thank you both kindly.... looks like I'm stuck: - VCT noise - Rotting sunfroof - TOB (???) howl (also without conclusive cause/repair) The likelihood this this being swapped for a 10th gen grows everyday but I am still so sour that I have all these problems on the only new Honda I've ever owned. I need to go back to nursing rust 
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Feb 6, 2020 22:25
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New window seals came in for the FB. There were no NOS ones available anymore but Atkins just started reproducing them. No more jagged edges when you have your arm out the window! Old   They put up a fight coming out  New  
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Feb 7, 2020 19:45
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Imperador do Brasil posted:New window seals came in for the FB. There were no NOS ones available anymore but Atkins just started reproducing them. No more jagged edges when you have your arm out the window! Oh, that's good to know. I'll be needing those shortly (I hope.) Have you replaced the door seals yet? If so, what did you go with and how did you like it? I've heard complaints about the 1AAuto door seals (Actually Metro Moulded products) being too thick, but I think that's just an issue with them being brand new, and they'll crush down a bit with use. edit: and those outer window sweeps were available like a year ago when I checked. Tasca Parts had them for $15/each. Guess I should have bought them then. Inners are still available for about $16, BTW: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-belt-weather-strip-887158791 Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 21:50
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Darchangel posted:Oh, that's good to know. I'll be needing those shortly (I hope.) Have you replaced the door seals yet? If so, what did you go with and how did you like it? I've heard complaints about the 1AAuto door seals (Actually Metro Moulded products) being too thick, but I think that's just an issue with them being brand new, and they'll crush down a bit with use. I did the door seals as well with the ones you mentioned. They are mega thick and sometimes they pop out of the back channel but it’s heaps better than being able to see through them. I should have bought these outer window seals last year when they were still available as well, but it was only $60 for the Atkins ones so no big loss. It’s a big change for the small monetary and time investment. The one thing I really need is a steering box with less slop. I can’t adjust more tightness into mine and I have some on-center deadness. It’s not undriveable by any means but would be nice to have less flop. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 22:20
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I did the door seals as well with the ones you mentioned. They are mega thick and sometimes they pop out of the back channel but it’s heaps better than being able to see through them. I should have bought these outer window seals last year when they were still available as well, but it was only $60 for the Atkins ones so no big loss. It’s a big change for the small monetary and time investment. Thanks. Yeah, the door seals on the '79 are pretty much non-existent, and what's still there is crispy. Will probably also do the rear window and sunroof seals, too. The '79 steering box is worn on-center enough to allow the steering wheel to turn about 15 degrees each way. The GSL-SE steering box I've got in it for the moment is a lot better, but I've very much considering putting in an FC crossmember with rack and pinion, especially since the ening going in is actually an S4 13B with S3 13B front cover and oil pan.
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Feb 7, 2020 22:37
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Wife's car battery died in one of the more convenient ways, in the garage at home. Rip in peace, OEM Ford battery, 2011-2020.
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Feb 7, 2020 23:41
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  Lasered and bent my motor plates, then installed my custom 16 injector intake and headers. It’s getting serious
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Feb 8, 2020 05:33
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drat, hard to follow that up added speed holes and mystic spirals 
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Feb 8, 2020 06:37
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I have no idea what's going on with the above. I thought you were adding a platform, some storage and a sub? Explain 
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Feb 8, 2020 11:17
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Thats the top, flipped upside down. The subwoofer driver goes in the narrow part farthest from the camera. The spirals of PVC are the ports for the subwoofer, but they don't quite exit the enclosure yet. They will exit at the far left and right. The 'speed holes' are just to allow better airflow between the sections. I only really needed to do it near the center where the wings and console meet, but I had the drillbit out so I did the other spots too. I should have another update tonight with the last couple faces glued on. taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Feb 8, 2020 |
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Feb 8, 2020 19:29
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tehk posted:
Your engine is very pretty  taqueso posted:Thats the top, flipped upside down. The subwoofer driver goes in the narrow part farthest from the camera. The spirals of PVC are the ports for the subwoofer, but they don't quite exit the enclosure yet. They will exit at the far left and right. The 'speed holes' are just to allow better airflow between the sections. I only really needed to do it near the center where the wings and console meet, but I had the drillbit out so I did the other spots too. What is this going into?
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Feb 8, 2020 20:08
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Tomarse posted:What is this going into? 2004 Volvo XC90 
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Feb 8, 2020 20:31
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taqueso posted:2004 Volvo XC90 Three Little Birdies Down Beats would be my choice. 
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Feb 8, 2020 21:04
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Toccata and Fugue in D minor I built this to hopefully play really low, hoping to get 105dB at 12Hz or so. I listen to all kinds of stuff and want quality over quantity. side note: the lowest note on a full size organ is (IIRC) 6Hz, I think I'd need 18" and the entire cargo space for that. taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Feb 8, 2020 |
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Feb 8, 2020 21:24
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You gotta go with Under the Influence or Mr. Oizo - Flat Beat
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Feb 8, 2020 22:39
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Just a 40Hz test tone.
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Feb 9, 2020 00:18
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb2jDNZ5JuQ Don't laugh, hit play.
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Feb 9, 2020 01:02
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igHOaMOzzUo
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Feb 9, 2020 01:08
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taqueso posted:Toccata and Fugue in D minor My man! While I generally enjoy mostly rock and pop, with segues into various electronica, it’s always neat to bust out the orchestral/classical stuff to show the kids what low really is. Those pedal notes... BTW, a modern piece that is fun with lots of long lows is “Solar Sailer” by Daft Punk from the Tron Legacy. It’s very atmospheric. https://youtu.be/tdU46cSqslI The surround on the JL 10” in my Crown Vic finally gave up, so I currently don’t get to enjoy this one as much as I was, sadly.
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Feb 9, 2020 02:26
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You just hit me with a wave of nostalgia that almost knocked me out of my seat.
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Feb 9, 2020 05:54
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It looks a lot more like a box now 
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Feb 9, 2020 09:58
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Feb 9, 2020 10:58
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taqueso posted:It looks a lot more like a box now Some very specific looking car floor cutouts there! have you done a test fit yet? was your C.A.D and stickytape work sufficient? 
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Feb 9, 2020 11:41
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Yeah, it's been in and out of the car way too many times. Hopefully that means it fits now... The cardboard didn't actually end up helping much with the actual cutting but it got me thinking about what I was going to do in a more concrete way. If you click the ? at the bottom of my post you can see more pics including a test fit.
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Feb 9, 2020 11:48
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I'm really intrigued to see your final fitmet taqueso. You've put so much good work in at this point I can't help but think it's going to be great.
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Feb 9, 2020 13:59
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Some fairing work, ehhh, probably should have read up on how to do it. Maybe I'm supposed to shape it while it cures. I know how to shape it with a sander    
taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Feb 9, 2020 |
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Feb 9, 2020 23:06
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More I should have masked off the speaker mounting circle with plastic and packing tape. taqueso fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Feb 10, 2020 |
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Feb 10, 2020 06:08
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Here's my music suggestion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWClq1Pr7hM Hearing this come out of a car would be hilarious and awesome.
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Feb 10, 2020 11:55
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 Took the bumper off my truck after someone decided to play bumper-cars with my poo poo. $240 with new brackets, everything else I can probably re-use from the old bumper. That crease on the fender pisses me off, dunno what to do about that. Noticed the steering rack is leaking while I was in there, yay! At least I got to use my electric impact gun, it is powerful and very quiet.
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Feb 11, 2020 00:29
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Not quite there but that's enough sanding for now
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Feb 11, 2020 00:30
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Motronic posted:Oh, so you bought a NICE trailer. My old rear end 80s steel horse trailer would have just about overloaded that thing with nothing more than a couple bales of hay and a bucket of water in it. Scaled it tonight. Trailer is basically empty, truck was just me with a bit under half a tank of fuel:  Max GCVW is 12700 so that still leaves 5000lb for one or two horses, tack, a full tank of fuel, and whoever / whatever else is in the truck. Tows like a dream.
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Feb 11, 2020 05:06
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Not too bad now The current port situation 
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Feb 11, 2020 06:09
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Before: After: 
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Feb 11, 2020 09:02
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Finally got the Element back in working order. Despite replacing the brackets and caliper pins, the front driver side caliper was still dragging. I had initially thought the piston boot looked fine. But upon second examination it did look to be folded on itself a little weirdly. But no leaks or anything. I ended up replacing both front calipers, because the originals had 215k miles on them. After draining and bleeding the system, everything is (finally) working the way it should. The rear calipers do look a bit crusty, so maybe preemptively replace those at some point. I know, I know, if it's not broken, don't mess with it.
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Feb 11, 2020 13:19
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:You just hit me with a wave of nostalgia that almost knocked me out of my seat.  "...and keep reaching for the stars!" taqueso posted:More If that stuff is anything like Bondo, you should shape it with a "cheese-grater" when it's partially cured. Any particular reason you didn't use MDF? I find that lot easier to work with for speaker cabinets than common plywood (the really good multilayer ply is a different matter.) For one thing, you can screw into the "end grain" without too much worry. Well, any more than putting screws anywhere else in the MDF, at least. Potentially less moisture-resistant, but you can seal it with paint or polyester resin as well, like you did on the plywood. Does get *heavy* though, which is actually a plus for a subwoofer cabinet - mass to reduce resonance and flex. Vanagoon posted:Here's my music suggestion. Would. I have all kinds of things coming out of my stereo. My Pandora is a... mixed bag. Mind you, hearing this piece I'm singing "Stop That Pigeon" in my head, since it seems to be based on Tiger Rag. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj6-LG5VpGk UnkleBoB posted:Before: Much better.
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Feb 11, 2020 18:27
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Darchangel posted:If that stuff is anything like Bondo, you should shape it with a "cheese-grater" when it's partially cured. I built my last subwoofer out of MDF (for indoor use) and chose plywood this time because I thought it would be more durable. This one has to be a floor and will have a hinged door attached, which seemed iffy for MDF. MDF is easy to work with (except the dust sucks) but it seems to break apart pretty easily. Now that I have some epoxy experience, I think coating the MDF and epoxying in the hardware probably would have resulted in something strong enough. This bit of project is starting to feel pretty close to 'done' but after it's done I have a little problem -- nothing to drive the subwoofer with and no way to get an audio signal from the headunit... taqueso fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 11, 2020 18:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Scaled it tonight. Trailer is basically empty, truck was just me with a bit under half a tank of fuel: Oh hell yeah, that's a great amount of margin.
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