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Shaocaholica posted:Dumb scenario popped in my head. Is there a limit to how cold air can be for modern engines? What kind of problems can result if you fed a modern engine with super cold air? Wikipedia says air liquifies at -194.35C so not that low but what about right above that? Assuming the engine is 'warm' and the cold environment doesn't affect lubricants and coolant. Yeah, there is a limit. Its where the fuel solidifies in the lines or fuel filter. There is also a limit to where the oil solidifies or more likely lacks in ability to be pumped through the engine and severe damage results. Batteries freeze too. Assuming the oil, fuel, coolant and battery are all heated the limit is still going to be the point at which the fuel entering the cylinder freezes due to the cold air prior to ignition. What temperature that is varies greatly depending on whats in the tank. I have had a diesel gel up on me once at about -10F. Gas starts to have issues around -50-70. The metallurgy of the driveline will have issues at those temperatures as well, so even if the engine runs axles/gears etc are all prone to breakage. Most cummins engines have a grid heater rather than glow plugs. It preheats incoming air. It cycles until the coolant reaches a certain temperature regardless of weather the truck is in gear or not. They pull a couple hundred amps and the headlights dim noticeably when its on. Mine seems to kick in if its been under 45f. Runs a lot longer the colder it gets. DEF has frozen on me a few times as well but the tank heater gets it thawed before it becomes a problem.
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Feb 10, 2020 01:16
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How does plastic handle crazy temperatures for that matter?
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Feb 10, 2020 01:34
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2007 Corolla LE question. I need to replace the rear fender. My buddy has a 2004 Corolla that he's gonna junk. Will his '04's fender fit onto my 2007? They're the same generation, but I'm just not sure if differing years' parts are interchangeable. \/ Alright cool man thanks melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 10, 2020 02:17
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As long as his is a CE or LE, it'll fit. If it's an S, it won't fit.
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Feb 10, 2020 06:22
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2000 Toyota Sienna minivan, fwd, tire size P205/70R15. I want to modestly improve my minivan's offroad capability. I'm thinking of buying 2 steel wheels and mounting chunky a/t tires. Then I could swap just the front wheels before a trip. (I have a long commute, so I don't think I want a/t tires on full time.) This is for driving on dirt forest roads of varying quality. With my normal highway tires, sometimes I have trouble getting up steep, gravelly, heavily rutted/bumpy sections. Some hills take a couple tries, plus some speed (like 15-20 mph). So I'm looking for modest traction improvement in this situation. Is this reasonable, putting a/t tires on the front wheels, but leaving normal tires on the rear? Doing just the fronts is half the cost, half the work to swap, half the storage space. edit: or should I just buy 4 a/t tires and use them all the time, the road noise isn't so bad, etc? I drive about 70 miles/day during the week. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 11, 2020 03:02
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ryanrs posted:2000 Toyota Sienna minivan, fwd, tire size P205/70R15. I know nothing about doing this on a minivan, but I do know that BF Goodrich K02 off-road tires are drat good, I ride on them in a lot of vehicles and they are fantastic for being quiet onroad. They also come in 15s.
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Feb 11, 2020 03:14
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Shaocaholica posted:Dumb scenario popped in my head. Is there a limit to how cold air can be for modern engines? What kind of problems can result if you fed a modern engine with super cold air? Wikipedia says air liquifies at -194.35C so not that low but what about right above that? Assuming the engine is 'warm' and the cold environment doesn't affect lubricants and coolant. There are problem long before that low a temp. Look up "throttle body heater" and how things go down for people who need one but who have bypassed it.
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Feb 11, 2020 03:19
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KakerMix posted:I do know that BF Goodrich K02 off-road tires are drat good, I ride on them in a lot of vehicles and they are fantastic for being quiet onroad. They also come in 15s. Oh really? Because if KO2s are pretty ok for long highway drives, then I'll just replace all 4 tires. In my heart I know I am a lazy person, and swapping even just 2 wheels for every trip seems like a hassle. What I want to avoid is the horrible buzz/rumble I occasionally hear from some giant pickup driving two lanes over. I take it those aren't KO2s, but some more extreme mud tire or something? Commuting on those would be too much for me.
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Feb 11, 2020 03:53
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Finally have one: 2007 Nissan Versa 4-door hatch, 1.8, CVT transmission. 148,000 miles. Well-maintained by dealer & service. I know the car and have done some work on it over the years. I bought it from a (long-time, +20-years) friend about eight months ago. My son's GF daily-drives it. (they both live at my house, a temporary situation). It has had a cracked exhaust manifold since prior ownership. I put new struts on it about a year ago (for the PO) The left front wheel bearing is starting to hum. The battery was replaced six months ago. I have no idea if these things are in any way related to the issue, but hey. A couple weeks ago, it started to buck lightly, momentarily (like, a split-second), on light acceleration and on up to speeds between 30-40MPH. Like a momentary miss. I have been unable to reproduce any conditions; it seems to be entirely at random. It's not harsh or violent, but is definitely noticeable. Annoying. There are no codes or pre-codes I see no change in the tach when it does it Doesn't matter whether the A/C is on or off It doesn't seem to ever do it when in Park revving the engine through a variety of RPM sets It'll do it when cold or warmed up. Some days, it does it once or twice in a half-hour; other days it's several times a minute. For example, I took it out last night - it was already warmed up, did it like, 15-times in 20-minutes of mixed driving. Today, around 5PM, took it out after it sat all night & day, it did it once in a half-hour from cold start/drive (it was 41-degrees). An hour later, it did it six times during a ten-minute drive. It doesn't do it on hard acceleration, or at highway speeds. Almost all driving on level roads. Searching online gave no definitive answers. I have: - loose ground wires loving with the ECU - bad CVT trans - dirty MAF or intake - lovely gas (the GF has consistently bought gas from the same two stations). Alternator going/throwing funky/dirty current (a real stretch). I feel like I'm missing something obvious. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 11, 2020 04:03
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ryanrs posted:Oh really? Because if KO2s are pretty ok for long highway drives, then I'll just replace all 4 tires. In my heart I know I am a lazy person, and swapping even just 2 wheels for every trip seems like a hassle. I don't have much to add but I really want to see a Sienna on KO2s.
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Feb 11, 2020 05:11
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ryanrs posted:Oh really? Because if KO2s are pretty ok for long highway drives, then I'll just replace all 4 tires. In my heart I know I am a lazy person, and swapping even just 2 wheels for every trip seems like a hassle. I do a lot of importing of diesel trucks from Japan, and one of the things I do consistently is put KO2s on everything. They are well liked for being just a good drat tire. Good for offroad, decent in the snow, and very good for behaving on the road. I appreciate all that, but I really love that most of them come available with white letters. I've driven on them on relatively light vehicles like Ruggers while bombing down the highway and there is no tire buzz. Same thing with the quite heavy big boy Land Cruisers and same experience flying down the expressway. Someone around here has a Porsche Cayenne around here with KO2s on it, they will sing the praises too. As a daily tire they are great, and your Sienna with a set, white letters out would be fantastic I bet.
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Feb 11, 2020 05:28
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OK! I will put KO2s on my Sienna, possibly with white letters! KO2s aren't available in the exact OEM tire size. My 2000 Sienna OEM tires: 205/70R15 XLE trim: 215/65R15 (higher trim level but probably same wheel well size?) Nearest KO2: 215/75R15 White lettering KO2: 235/75R15 Will it fit? Will I still be able to use snow chains? (Not absolutely critical, but I need to know.)  
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 11, 2020 05:55
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ryanrs posted:OK! I will put KO2s on my Sienna, possibly with white letters! I love this site for these sorts of questions https://tiresize.com/calculator/ Based on your OEM size and the nearest KO2s:  Based on the XLE and nearest KO2s:  Based on your OEM size and white letter size:  Based on the XLE and the white letter size:  I still don't have an actual answer for you if they will fit though. Most tires when up-sizing fit just fine on a level road going straight, it's when the suspension starts flexing and you start turning lock to lock that the clearance issues show up. Are your current tires OEM size? Comparing yours and the XLE oem size means your tires are taller, but the XLEs are wider.
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Feb 11, 2020 06:24
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ryanrs posted:OK! I will put KO2s on my Sienna, possibly with white letters! What kind of tires are on it right now? That doesn't look a lot tougher than what I've done with good all season tires.
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Feb 11, 2020 07:03
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Fat tyres on small rims is so cool. I kinda want to go that route on my new car, but with 2 sets of brand new rims and tyres worth about $3200 in total (at dealer pricer), it's hard to justfy just to experiment.
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Feb 11, 2020 07:52
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KakerMix posted:I still don't have an actual answer for you if they will fit though. Most tires when up-sizing fit just fine on a level road going straight, it's when the suspension starts flexing and you start turning lock to lock that the clearance issues show up. Are your current tires OEM size? Comparing yours and the XLE oem size means your tires are taller, but the XLEs are wider. Yes, I am currently on OEM size tires. I'm guessing 215/75R15 will fit without snow chains, but might have problems lock-to-lock with chains? Charles posted:What kind of tires are on it right now? That doesn't look a lot tougher than what I've done with good all season tires. I'm currently running a random mix of cheap highway tires from different manufacturers. And that isn't the road I got stuck on. That road leads to the road where I got stuck.
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Feb 11, 2020 14:33
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1.5" taller overall would be fine on most trucks, but yeah that could be very tight on a minivan. I'd cycle the suspension in the driveway and see if anything is within an inch of the current tire, especially while turning. Edit; if you just want AT tires, the Yokohama Geolandar A/T exists in 205/70R15, and the General Grabber AT 2 is available in 205/75R15. You also might not need snow chains with any of these tires, at least from a legal perspective. Most A/T category tires have the snowflake symbol on the sidewall, though now I can't remember if the KO2 does. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 11, 2020 14:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:1.5" taller overall would be fine on most trucks, but yeah that could be very tight on a minivan. I'd cycle the suspension in the driveway and see if anything is within an inch of the current tire, especially while turning. Ko2 should all be M+S rated. Regular KO2 should have 3PMSF as well, which means they pass as a snow tire. The KO2-DT (different tread compound for heavy trucks) are non 3PMSF but still M+S. I don’t know what rating is required to not need chains. I wouldn’t bother with white lettering, just get the closest size that fit. Mine feel a little bit more floaty on the highway, like the truck seems more susceptible to wind. But the snow and mud traction is much improved over the stock firestone transforce at. The KO2s do seem to fling a lot of rocks, even for an all terrain. Noise and unbalance are a non issue.
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Feb 11, 2020 18:22
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I *think* in most places where they will enforce tire chains, they'll allow you to go without chains if you're running either a true winter tire or anything with the three-peak snowflake symbol. I will say that what little experience I had with ATs in snow (Discount Pathfinder S AT, aka Kumho KL61) was extremely positive.
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Feb 11, 2020 18:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:I *think* in most places where they will enforce tire chains, they'll allow you to go without chains if you're running either a true winter tire or anything with the three-peak snowflake symbol. I will say that what little experience I had with ATs in snow (Discount Pathfinder S AT, aka Kumho KL61) was extremely positive.
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Feb 11, 2020 19:06
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ryanrs posted:Oh really? Because if KO2s are pretty ok for long highway drives, then I'll just replace all 4 tires. In my heart I know I am a lazy person, and swapping even just 2 wheels for every trip seems like a hassle. When in balance I can't heat my KO2s in the cabin on the highway. But they are chonky tires so you're gonna need to get them balanced every once in a while as they wear. Part of my problem could perhaps be the occasional lug I pull off of them when driving like a jackass. KakerMix posted:Someone around here has a Porsche Cayenne around here with KO2s on it, they will sing the praises too. Guilty. The lug pulling this is going to be fairly unique to my situation, because they are rated to not do that up to something like 400 HP.
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Feb 11, 2020 20:31
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Does Mazda hold the best power/mpg ratio for a ICE? I guess that's a vague question but I guess to narrow it down it would have to be the power and fuel rate at the most efficient rpm under load.
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Feb 11, 2020 23:35
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I got some fancy-rear end RainX windshield wipers because I accidentally knocked one of my wipers loose scraping ice, thought I reattached it, and found I was wrong when I attempted to use the wiper on the highway. The problem is from the beginning, these things are trying to send the actual strip that contacts the windshield off, they keep sliding partway off and I have to slide them back on. Is there a reason I shouldn't just get some super glue, run a bead along the length, and glue it on? Really frustrating that when I finally decide to splurge on what should be good wipers they end up being lovely.
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Feb 12, 2020 02:08
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Found a post by a 2000 Sienna owner with 235/75R15. He says, "I get a little wheel rub when it's a slow, sharp left turn, not to bad tho." OEM tires 205/70R15 = 26.3" diameter My prospective KO2 215/75R15 = 27.7" Random sienna poster's 235/75R15 = 28.9" So it sounds like the KO2s will be fine! I will experiment with chains to see if they work, but tbh I don't really care about that since I try to avoid snow.  
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Feb 12, 2020 03:27
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Aw, crap. I was planning on just buying 4 KO2s and retiring one of my old tires to be the spare. But does the size difference mean I really need 5 KO2s, because a OEM size spare will be unsafe when used with 3 KO2s? I absolutely need a full size spare that can do 400 miles at 80 mph, because that's usually how far away from home I am when I get flats. 
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Feb 12, 2020 03:40
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Is that sienna all wheel drive? If its just front wheel, put the odd size tire on the back and it should make it. Might gently caress with the abs might not.
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Feb 12, 2020 12:43
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rdb posted:Is that sienna all wheel drive? If its just front wheel, put the odd size tire on the back and it should make it. Might gently caress with the abs might not. FWD, so it's not going to destroy the drivetrain. One time I drove 25 miles on dirt roads with a flat rear tire and didn't even notice until I got back on pavement, so it doesn't seem like too big of a deal. I want to avoid, e.g. it pulling hard to one side for the entire drive home, or other freeway issues. Dunno if that's something I have to worry about with one tire 1.5" smaller diameter than the rest. I guess not, probably?
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Feb 12, 2020 17:14
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ryanrs posted:FWD, so it's not going to destroy the drivetrain. One time I drove 25 miles on dirt roads with a flat rear tire and didn't even notice until I got back on pavement, so it doesn't seem like too big of a deal. Learn how to plug tires, carry a kit, don't worry about it?
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Feb 12, 2020 17:27
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Alternatively, buy a full-size spare on a matching wheel, mount it on an external tire carrier, start doing five-tire rotations.
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Feb 12, 2020 17:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Alternatively, buy a full-size spare on a matching wheel, mount it on an external tire carrier, start doing five-tire rotations.  Seems to be the most correct option. Mount the spare in the front as you need access to the rear hatch.
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Feb 12, 2020 18:00
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Gen 1 Sienna has room for a full size spare under the car (with a neat little pulley mechanism for raising/lowering it without crawling underneath). Donut spares can gently caress off forever. I also have a tire patch kit and I've used it before a couple times for my motorcycle (I used to do offroad riding on my F4i). So yeah, I have a couple options. Mostly I'm brainstorming here in case someone chimes in with useful "holy poo poo don't do that" info.
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Feb 12, 2020 18:04
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I'm currently carrying on of my summer tires in the trunk because the car doesn't have a spare (came with run flats) and I want something more than a patch kit in case I get a flat with my winter set. I am hating having it eat up the space, so may get a roof rack next year.
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Feb 12, 2020 18:15
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My car (2004 6-speed manual petrol Honda Civic) has been for maybe the last year or two slowly showing its age. It's at around 60-70k miles, the vast majority of which will have been ~10 minute drives. Apart from smaller stuff that I can potentially fix myself (like sticking electric windows and central locking), I'm worried about the drivetrain; the engine sounds a little more diesel-y than it should, shifting into first and reverse is slowly getting more difficult, "that doesn't sound good" gear noise when coasting with the clutch engaged, stuff like that. I am broadly up for the challenge of tearing the whole car down and rebuilding it, but not while I've got so much to do on the house and not while it's my only car. It would be at least a year or two before I would be positioned to take on something like that. Is there anything specific I might be able to check and/or fix/mitigate without making things worse or spending twice what the car's worth at a repair place? I keep up with its regular services but it's not like they're busting open the transmission to poke around for wear. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Feb 12, 2020 |
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Feb 12, 2020 19:11
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Jaded Burnout posted:shifting into first and reverse is slowly getting more difficult, "that doesn't sound good" gear noise when coasting with the clutch engaged, (Note: In most areas, the latter is not legal, so I'm not saying do it, but ... if you want to replicate current functionality, you will probably do it.)
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Feb 12, 2020 19:27
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Krakkles posted:stay in gear with the clutch not depressed That's what I meant by "coasting with the clutch engaged", my terminology may be off. Might be referred to as "engine braking" except I'm not really using it to slow down per se. If I really want to coast then yeah I put it in neutral, though not often and usually only when actively braking with the actual brakes.
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Feb 12, 2020 19:42
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Jaded Burnout posted:My car (2004 6-speed manual petrol Honda Civic) has been for maybe the last year or two slowly showing its age. It's at around 60-70k miles, the vast majority of which will have been ~10 minute drives. Have you ever changed the gear oil in the transmission? 60-70k miles is relatively low mileage but it's also 16 years old. If it's had any seepage over the years it could be low, and it could also be that the fluid is just worn out.
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Feb 12, 2020 20:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have you ever changed the gear oil in the transmission? 60-70k miles is relatively low mileage but it's also 16 years old. If it's had any seepage over the years it could be low, and it could also be that the fluid is just worn out. I haven't personally done this, I'd have to check what's in the standard services its been getting. There's been no leaks or seeps to my knowledge, but I definitely acknowledge that simple age can do a number on things. It's way past any age-based maintenance marks in the workshop manual. While changing fluids is not something I've done before, I'm planning on starting doing so for the engine oil, so I could take a shot at the transmission oil at the same time. (for avoidance of doubt I'm aware they're probably different oils and will check the manual first).
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Feb 12, 2020 20:05
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Gear oil on most manual transmissions is about as easy to replace as engine oil, with the exception being you don't usually have great access to the fill plug - so you'll end up using long hoses or a pump or some bullshit like that.
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Feb 12, 2020 20:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:Gear oil on most manual transmissions is about as easy to replace as engine oil, with the exception being you don't usually have great access to the fill plug - so you'll end up using long hoses or a pump or some bullshit like that.  I hate trying to find anything in this manual so I can't find a layout diagram for the car as a whole, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.
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Feb 12, 2020 20:44
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Jaded Burnout posted:That's what I meant by "coasting with the clutch engaged", my terminology may be off. Might be referred to as "engine braking" except I'm not really using it to slow down per se. Check out adjusting your clutch as well - it's often very simple and will correct the difficulty getting in gear. Worth knowing, although those directions kind of account for it - make sure to loosen the fill plug before the drain plug. If you find that you can't get the fill plug open, your options are a great deal less limited with fluid in your transmission.
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Feb 12, 2020 20:47
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