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I’m missing 2nd-3rd shifts in my NB when I drive fast. I assumed that the problem is I’m a bad idiot person, and I’m not ruling that out, but I’m also reading that this may be a symptom of failing motor mounts. If that turns out to be true, is there any reason not to spend $15 extra for stiffer MazdaSpeed mounts? AFAIK, my car’s bone stock, and I don’t have any plans for power upgrades. I do like to drive it hard, though, and I’ll autocross it a bit, so my first thought is “why not?” But I’m old and stiff and fat, too, so if it’ll make the car less enjoyable day to day, it’s probably not worth it. Will it make any meaningful difference in ride quality?
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Jan 1, 2020 08:18
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Dadliest Worrier posted:I’m missing 2nd-3rd shifts in my NB when I drive fast. I assumed that the problem is I’m a bad idiot person, and I’m not ruling that out, but I’m also reading that this may be a symptom of failing motor mounts. If that turns out to be true, is there any reason not to spend $15 extra for stiffer MazdaSpeed mounts? I've never run the Mazda speed comp mounts but supermiata and flying Miata both say the'll stiffen things up by 30% or so but on the flip side they'll stay stiff for roughly a year (milage not specified) so take that as you will. You'll most definitely notice an NHV increase. If you're missing shifts while cornering then your motor mounts could use some help. If you're missing shifts while in a straight line then your mounts are definitely hosed.
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Jan 1, 2020 10:05
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Rhyno posted:Just wanted to chime in from Alabama. I've never seen so many Miatas in one place. I lost count today when a pack of them sped down the parkway. I know Huntsville and Birmingham have Miata clubs. Not horrible weather for a drive.
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Jan 1, 2020 19:26
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Diametunim posted:I've never run the Mazda speed comp mounts but supermiata and flying Miata both say the'll stiffen things up by 30% or so but on the flip side they'll stay stiff for roughly a year (milage not specified) so take that as you will. You'll most definitely notice an NHV increase. Huh. Reviews on Flyin Miata are super positive. I think I’ll give them a shot.
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Jan 1, 2020 19:29
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Let me know how it goes! I've been debating making the switch myself as well.
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Jan 1, 2020 20:10
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GD_American posted:I know Huntsville and Birmingham have Miata clubs. Not horrible weather for a drive. Yeah the coldest it has been at midday is 50. If I lived here I'd only own a Miata.
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Jan 1, 2020 20:16
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Rhyno posted:Yeah the coldest it has been at midday is 50. If I lived here I'd only own a Miata. I did it for a decade. I wouldn't go back now, but I enjoyed the hell out of it.
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Jan 3, 2020 06:17
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I still have to install my Mazdaspeed/ competition motor mounts - I’ll report back.. probably in the spring.
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Jan 4, 2020 18:54
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Miata reunion is at Road Atlanta this year! Woohoo
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Jan 7, 2020 04:46
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Voltage posted:I still have to install my Mazdaspeed/ competition motor mounts - I’ll report back.. probably in the spring. I did them in a few hours without removing anything!
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Jan 7, 2020 05:20
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Out with the old (to be put into storage because they are basically brand new) And in with the new  Dropped car about a half inch to 13 front 13.25 rear 
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Jan 10, 2020 05:45
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That's in really great condition, makes me miss my red '94. I wanted to take a look at what the 2019s are going for around here and only found 2 new soft tops in stock within like 300 miles of me, with one being the 30th anniversary edition. What gives? Is the ND.2 that popular?
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Jan 20, 2020 01:30
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Drove my Miata on a frozen lake today and it was very fun. I gotta wait for someone to post pics of cars out on the course but here’s a shot between runs with a bonus NA finishing in the background. A+ would slide again Eyud fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jan 20, 2020 |
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Jan 20, 2020 02:21
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Thats cool as gently caress, I miss my beater miata with snow tires... Anyways - question for anyone who may know - I’m about to start a full suspension overhaul of my ‘95 - so far the parts i have ready to install are kyb agx shocks with mounts and boots, flyin miata springs, full set of energy suspension poly bushings (and a hydraulic press to install them) and mazdaspeed motor mounts. Is there anything else (including tools) i will need? My current list of parts/tools to buy is: Sway bar end links New ball joints Possibly tie rods? Ball joint separator (any recommendations?) Spring compressors Eneki rpf1 14x7 wheels with 195/60R14 falkan azenis I am really only looking to use it on the street - it’s possible I may slap in a hard dog roll bar so I can track it, but so far this is mainly going to be used for twisty mountain road bomb runs with less than ideal road surfaces in the northeast.
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Jan 20, 2020 05:17
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Would you want to do zerk fittings for the poly bushings? Maybe a good time to do the wheel bearings? I'm chasing down a rattle from the front of the engine that I'm praying was a loose/bad timing belt tensioner.
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Jan 20, 2020 14:34
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Look at bumping up to 15" wheel size, opens up a lot more tire options. Personally I wouldn't do poly bushings without the SadFab bearing retrofit - it replaces all the sleeves on the bushings with bearings, which eliminates binding issues that can pop up with poly bushings. For what it's worth I've got 210k km's on my nb, and outside of the diff bushings I haven't replaced any of them. I don't have any slop/play in them, and given the rubber is 20 years old it's likely rock solid anyway. I inspected them when replacing the suspension, and they were in fine condition.
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Jan 20, 2020 16:04
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My driving skills aren’t good enough to matter between 14’s-15’s and I prefer the look of 14’s myself. Nana nana booboo
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Jan 20, 2020 19:34
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Bit the bullet and decided to ditch the awful Tien Street Basis coilovers that are currently on my NB. I'm fuckin' pumped for these. I'm sure I will regret the 800/500 spring rates on these things but thankfully it's not my DD.   Also installed a Cobalt Stainless Steel midpipe I got for free in a deal from a local Miata partout shop. Install was a surprising brease Doesn't make the car sound any different at all which is a little sad but it looks pretty good. Eventually it'll all match when I decide to go looking for a set of RB headers and fujitsubo exhaust. 
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Jan 26, 2020 01:40
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I went to the local drivers education track here in Austin and shaved 2 seconds of my personal best. Down to 40 seconds around the track. After getting home from the track I decided to deep clean the car for th first time after owning it for a year and some change. I was on the fence about it because it's effort but I'm glad I did. I found some concerning things id like some advice on fixing. First, Does anyone have a guide for rebuilding the power steering rack? I found a lot of guides regarding de-powering the rack but nothing on rebuilding. I suppose a depower guide could be used to reference a rebuild. Also, is it worth it? Or should I pull it from the car and send it to somebody? I ask because I believe the rack is leaking. Second, I think I'm bottoming out the car around the track. It's pretty evident looking at some of the fenders in the rear, the tires have definitely been catching. I'll post photos later but the rear fenders are crunched and the paint has chipped away. What can I do to prevent this from occuring or the car from rusting where the paint has chipped away? I also believe I'm dragging frame rails or pinch weld's. Is there anything I can do to fix the frame rails and pinch weld's?
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Feb 3, 2020 01:03
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Diametunim posted:I went to the local drivers education track here in Austin and shaved 2 seconds of my personal best. Down to 40 seconds around the track. I don't know if your miata is an NA or NB, but for NA, the gasket set for the ps rack is the edelmann 8864. $40 on amazon. The biggest issue is installing the passenger side seal, and I have no idea how to do it. It's like 15 inches into the housing and you'd need a press to do it right. If I were you, I'd find a used rack on ebay with as few miles as possible. I hosed up the gasket install and the rebuilt cardones on rock auto are spray and pray rebuilds. I got one that leaked like a fountain. If you are depowering the rack, you need to have the pinion shaft welded and heat treated again. I've read that the welds on that thing tend to crack the whole assembly and my experience with welding for a living tells me the metal needed pre-heating or post heat-treat. I have an extra NA rack in my garage I'd like to de-power, but I'm hesitant to mess with it... Diametunim posted:Second, I think I'm bottoming out the car around the track. It's pretty evident looking at some of the fenders in the rear, the tires have definitely been catching. I'll post photos later but the rear fenders are crunched and the paint has chipped away. What can I do to prevent this from occuring or the car from rusting where the paint has chipped away? Diametunim posted:I also believe I'm dragging frame rails or pinch weld's. Is there anything I can do to fix the frame rails and pinch weld's? I have the same problem and I will be solving it with flyin miata butterfly braces. I don't know what else I can do there.
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Feb 3, 2020 01:53
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Seeing as I've been in here posting about painting this critter for a while. I submit to you my progress pics. Paco Motorsports strong arms:  white primer, shop line brand shot with a harbor freight gun and garage sale devilbiss compressor  Nose white from Tony Montana's stash  Porsche Miami blue test piece, pictures do not do it justice. 
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Feb 3, 2020 02:03
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Nice blue. Looks like it'll be waaay better that Donut's low buck 350Z  . Of course you're not using decade old Plastidip...
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Feb 3, 2020 05:03
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Diametunim posted:I went to the local drivers education track here in Austin and shaved 2 seconds of my personal best. Down to 40 seconds around the track. You need taller bumpstops but make sure you still have some suspension travel.
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Feb 4, 2020 16:30
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I opened up my NB2’s center console last weekend. One of the screws is located beneath the window switches, so you’re supposed to pop them loose with a screwdriver. I had to use a ton of force to pop mine out, and when they came loose, I found out why. I assumed some idiot PO poured an entire loving Big Gulp down through the switches, so I went looking for used replacements on eBay and the ones I found seemed to have the same sticky brown goop leaking from them. Is this a normal thing? I had to crack the plastic housing to break it loose, so I’d like to replace it, but not if it’s going to happen all over again the next time. Edit: on looking at the photo again, it appears that whatever sludge had glued the lip of the switch housing to the console might not be the same sludge as what's leaking out of the switch housing. Was it possibly just really loving dirty at one point? The stuff on the lip looked more like regular dirt, and the stuff beneath was more like dried soda or something. Or maybe the stuff higher up was the same and had just gotten more dirt rubbed into it over the years. Steely Dad fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Feb 6, 2020 |
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Feb 6, 2020 21:19
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Diametunim posted:Let me know how it goes! I've been debating making the switch myself as well. To follow up on this, my mechanic (a Miata specialist) told me I should start by rebuilding the shifter, so I picked up a shifter rebuild kit for sale on Moss Miata this week. I'm planning to throw it in there next week. Hopefully it solves the issue more cheaply than replacing the motor mounts, but that'll be the next step.
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Feb 6, 2020 21:26
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Contact cleaner for the switches, all purpose cleaner and elbow grease for the goop. I'd try that before buying a replacement.
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Feb 6, 2020 21:38
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taqueso posted:Contact cleaner for the switches, all purpose cleaner and elbow grease for the goop. I'd try that before buying a replacement. I was able to scrub it out and reinstall, but I chipped the edge of the housing, and visually, it bugs me. It's just an aesthetic thing. I'm giving it a while to see if it stops bothering me. But I'm wondering if this is just a dumb PO thing or if it's a known issue for these things to leak sludge. I'm assuming the former, and Google doesn't tell me otherwise, but I'd hate to buy a replacement part and have the same thing happen again.
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Feb 6, 2020 22:22
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Steely Dad posted:I was able to scrub it out and reinstall, but I chipped the edge of the housing, and visually, it bugs me. It's just an aesthetic thing. I'm giving it a while to see if it stops bothering me. But I'm wondering if this is just a dumb PO thing or if it's a known issue for these things to leak sludge. I'm assuming the former, and Google doesn't tell me otherwise, but I'd hate to buy a replacement part and have the same thing happen again. Fwiw, I had to replace my '01 switch that quit working in '15 or so. No goop at all, just a dead passenger side switch.
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Feb 8, 2020 21:32
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BloodBag posted:I don't know if your miata is an NA or NB, but for NA, the gasket set for the ps rack is the edelmann 8864. $40 on amazon. The biggest issue is installing the passenger side seal, and I have no idea how to do it. It's like 15 inches into the housing and you'd need a press to do it right. If I were you, I'd find a used rack on ebay with as few miles as possible. I hosed up the gasket install and the rebuilt cardones on rock auto are spray and pray rebuilds. I got one that leaked like a fountain. If you are depowering the rack, you need to have the pinion shaft welded and heat treated again. I've read that the welds on that thing tend to crack the whole assembly and my experience with welding for a living tells me the metal needed pre-heating or post heat-treat. I have an extra NA rack in my garage I'd like to de-power, but I'm hesitant to mess with it... It's an NB powered rack. I'd like to de-power it but I drive the car to events across Texas (at least that's the plan) since I don't own a tow rig. I think I'm going to go the used takeoff or re-man route if I do determine it's leaking. I've read some articles on replacing the seals and most everyone agrees that it isn't worth the headaches you'll encounter. Here's some pictures of the leak I discovered the other day. Any ideas as to where it may be coming from? Unfortunately I haven't had time to get the car back up on jack-stands to smell the fluid and clean it off and watch for leaks. Fingers crossed it's not the front main seal, I replaced that during the timing belt job and I'm hoping I didn't mess it up. I went back and looked at some photos I took during the process and the seal looks flush and I don't remember scoring the inside of the crank with the seal puller. I also suspect the last two photos are indicative of the rear main seal going out (or being out) and I'll take care of them one of these days.         Here's a few photos of the frame rails, and pinch welds on the car. I'm wondering if I should lightly sand the exposed areas and spray it with some kind of underbody spray? Any suggestions? I don't want the body rusting any more than it has and would like to repair these areas if it's worthwhile.     BloodBag posted:
That color is absolutely beautiful. I can't wait for the finished product. Good luck dude. Suspension wise I was told the bumpstops on Miata Suspension are built into the coil overs themselves. Is that not correct? Check out the rear fenders after my last track day. What's the best way I should tackle this? the crunches don't have to be fixed but I'd like to prevent rust and keeping whats there from getting any worse. I'm thinking of having the fenders rolled some to prevent crunching the fenders anymore if the car continues to bottom but I don't know if this is the proper solution. Just one I've read about.       e: someone buy my shitbox beater. BMW comes on Friday and my apartment will not be happy that I have 6 cars in the parking lot. I'll give it to a goon for $2000 for just the car. https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/austin-1999-nb-mazda-mx-5-miata/7072408118.html Diametunim fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Feb 10, 2020 |
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Feb 10, 2020 07:00
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Is there a proven NC track coilover setup given that the Xidas aren't out yet?
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Feb 17, 2020 21:01
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I believe people just use whatevers popular off the rx8, no?
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Feb 17, 2020 21:33
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there a proven NC track coilover setup given that the Xidas aren't out yet? Cup Miata was for NCs. I'm sure it's sorted out with those guys.
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Feb 17, 2020 22:20
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there a proven NC track coilover setup given that the Xidas aren't out yet? I think the only game in town is Ohlins + whatever springs. Emilio hinted that they might do a NC shop car next; he's expecting it to be half of the cost of the FR-S and be faster iirc.
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Feb 17, 2020 22:35
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Wrar posted:Cup Miata was for NCs. I'm sure it's sorted out with those guys. Going to be a wee bit different tire wise.  Phone posted:I think the only game in town is Ohlins + whatever springs. Emilio hinted that they might do a NC shop car next; he's expecting it to be half of the cost of the FR-S and be faster iirc. I'd heard that he was working on an NC too, hopefully the suspension easy button is available soon. I think the Goodwin car went to SLB on the MeisterR coilovers, but either way it seems like they are working on the chassis setup. It appears to me that the NC is probably pretty disgustingly quick for little money with a 2.5, the right suspension, and some 17x10s.
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Feb 17, 2020 22:47
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 Oh gently caress me sideways. This filter has 2000 miles on it. 200 or so of those were track miles too E: oil. Prescious oil. 
Diametunim fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Feb 18, 2020 |
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Feb 17, 2020 23:54
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What am I supposed to be seeing with that filter?
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Feb 18, 2020 11:34
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I've found it very hard to find info on how to do stuff on NC's, google searching for <how to do x on nc mx5> always seems to bring up results for NA and NB which is incredibly frustrating. Or you get incredibly helpful miata.net threads which just say go look at the service manual. Which is great and all but then the one on mellens.net is missing parts for the gearbox and even then if it's something that you can find in the service manual it would be nice if they'd give a bit of a hint of exactly where to look in the drat thing instead of having to scroll through 40 pages of poo poo to find one torque figure. Despite that we've managed to replace both subframes, diff and every other suspension part on the car. Only things left now are replacing the calipers and the rear brake lines which is gonna be fun because the brackets are cruuuusty as gently caress, my pal spent hours underneath the car wire brushing the entire underside and then covering the whole thing with dinitrol. Also gently caress you to the engineer who decided part of a coolant pipe definitely needed to be a metal pipe bolted onto the front subframe where the only way to access it is to slightly drop the subframe. Part of me wishes that my pal had bought the car with a full ohlins setup, cage and a bunch of other neat stuff that was for sale for incredibly cheap. But then he's going to use the drat thing on the street mostly anyway so what would the point be. Saying that he bought the cheapest MK3.5 PHRT in the whole country at the time, mainly because it was in northern Scotland and definitely shows.
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Feb 19, 2020 13:27
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BloodBag posted:What am I supposed to be seeing with that filter? I had a panic moment that there was no oil in the filter because the core (center) of the filter is completely clean. Once I cut the filter with a Dremel and oil started coming out I was much happier. I still need to cut the filter in half and see what the media inside looks like considering this was attached to my drain plug.  I also spent way too much time the other day shooting engine de-greaser and brake cleaner on the sub frame, oil-pan, steering rack, and transmission. On the bright side everything looks much better and if there's a leak somewhere I'm bound to find it.   
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Feb 20, 2020 20:25
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My '92 NA's drat AGM battery (which is less than a year old) has suddenly started not keeping a charge/wanting to even try to start the car. I'm tempted to get a quick-release positive terminal and disconnect it when I'm not actively using the car (it gets driven less than once a week in the winter)... I know AGMs are generally more finicky, but is this a relatively common problem for NA's or is my wintertime underuse the key problem here?
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Feb 20, 2020 23:00
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Test the alternator?
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Feb 20, 2020 23:04
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