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Slavvy posted:While I'm here: 'synthetic' is a marketing buzzword and means less than nothing, all oils are a complicated blend of stuff and wtf is the difference between synthetic and natural anyway when you're just talking about chains of hydrocarbons? I was going to complain that I'd been wasting money on expensive synthetic, but apparently I just buy regular valvoline. drat, I guess I'm a cheapskate because I was immediately primed to be furious I'd wasted money on oil.
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Apr 24, 2020 14:35
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:every bike I own tells me when it needs an oil change when the shifting gets clunky. I still track the mileage but the notchy shifting generally occurs before the 3k mike mark I swear my bike has a "sweeter" smell when I'm done riding and the oil has a few thousand miles on it, and I can go by that alone (but I just keep track of the miles anyway)
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Apr 24, 2020 16:06
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MomJeans420 posted:I swear my bike has a "sweeter" smell when I'm done riding and the oil has a few thousand miles on it, and I can go by that alone (but I just keep track of the miles anyway) I've never experienced that, especially because two of my bikes reek of 2 stroke oil after I ride them, the SV is a hermetically sealed modern FI bike and the Goldwing alternately smells of mouse poo poo and the vinegar I used to clean it (thankfully a winter of sitting has made it really smell like neither these days). The notchy shifting is a dead ringer on every bike I've ever owned, regardless of brand. Sure enough I noticed it on the Goldwing the other day running to the post office and yep, it has about 2k miles on the oil
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Apr 24, 2020 17:16
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i degreased my bike with pine-sol once and it smelled like that for like a year. i recommend it, actually, as long as you get the discount kind with only pine oil. new actual pine-sol brand stuff has artificial pine-fresh-nr scent in it and it sucks
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Apr 24, 2020 17:20
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Apr 24, 2020 17:28
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it happens sometimes. people just explode
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Apr 24, 2020 17:53
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Slavvy posted:While I'm here: 'synthetic' is a marketing buzzword and means less than nothing, all oils are a complicated blend of stuff and wtf is the difference between synthetic and natural anyway when you're just talking about chains of hydrocarbons? AIUI: Regular oil is just the stuff that comes out of one level of the fractionation tower (or multiple levels blended together), synthetic is specifically manufactured (often from crude oil feedstock, of course) to a particular spec. As the regular oil will both have a wider range of weights and have an unknown amount of contamination it behaves less predictably at high temperatures/mechanical strain, and have more chance of reacting adversely with seals/rings/other components, and will break down in a less predictable timescale. The point isn't that synthetic is "better", it's that it's more predictable that it will work in the way the engine designer intended. Originally synthetic oil was anything not from crude - castor oil in particular (it's where the brand name Castrol comes from) was used a lot in early aero engines because even though in theory it's not as good a lubricant and has lots of problems (not least that oil-contaminated exhaust from the engines often ended up in the pilots mouths, giving them the shits) the problems it had were completely consistent and could be worked around, whereas petroleum-based oils, with the technology available at the time, ate seals and hoses, could be flammable at working engine temperatures, and was generally a complete pain to deal with. Improvements in quality control (and additives) can give conventional oil performance that's much closer to synthetic oil but it's still not *identical*, and if the manual says synthetic I'm gonna use synthetic.
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Apr 24, 2020 18:22
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goddamnedtwisto posted:AIUI: Regular oil is just the stuff that comes out of one level of the fractionation tower (or multiple levels blended together), synthetic is specifically manufactured (often from crude oil feedstock, of course) to a particular spec. As the regular oil will both have a wider range of weights and have an unknown amount of contamination it behaves less predictably at high temperatures/mechanical strain, and have more chance of reacting adversely with seals/rings/other components, and will break down in a less predictable timescale. But that's my point: no manual says 'synthetic'' in it, at least not that I've seen. They have specs and weights, if it meets those standards it works in the engine, albeit sometimes the specs are just factory part number gobbledygook. If there was some kind of big defining difference, it was a long time ago and they are practically indistinguishable from your engine's perspective today.
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Apr 24, 2020 20:14
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Whatever synthetic is or isn't, I put some in my old bike and experienced the thing that internet rumors say you will. Snickety smooth shifting, but leaking gaskets. After changing back to mineral some of the leaks stopped and some didn't, head cover nut gaskets among those that didn't. Worst one was the shift shaft seal, the leak probably carried some gunk with it so it would actually leak pretty significant amounts afterwards and changing it meant a new clutch cover seal which only came in a full seal kit. Of course, anecdotal, could have been some coincidence as well.
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Apr 24, 2020 20:27
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Slavvy posted:But that's my point: no manual says 'synthetic'' in it, at least not that I've seen. They have specs and weights, if it meets those standards it works in the engine, albeit sometimes the specs are just factory part number gobbledygook. If there was some kind of big defining difference, it was a long time ago and they are practically indistinguishable from your engine's perspective today. Look at this guy who thinks my KTM manual doesn’t specify synthetic.  Every 15 hours. 
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Apr 24, 2020 21:53
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Look at this whole thread having a loving oil discussion in 2020. I thought you all knew better. For shame 
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Apr 24, 2020 21:58
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Look at this whole thread having a loving oil discussion in 2020. You're right, I'm sorry.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:09
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Look at this whole thread having a loving oil discussion in 2020. I've rode my bike twice this month for a total of 7 miles*. THIS IS ALL I HAVE NOW. * Yes, yes, making me an iron-butter by Ducati owner standards.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:26
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I've rode my bike twice this month for a total of 7 miles*. THIS IS ALL I HAVE NOW. 2 miles over the service interval! Madonn'.
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Apr 25, 2020 00:21
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I heard you want synthetic oil if you steer with countersteering, but regular is fine if you just lean to turn. and maybe throw in a loud pipes saves lives argument in there
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Apr 25, 2020 00:28
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Slavvy posted:But that's my point: no manual says 'synthetic'' in it, at least not that I've seen. They have specs and weights, if it meets those standards it works in the engine, albeit sometimes the specs are just factory part number gobbledygook. If there was some kind of big defining difference, it was a long time ago and they are practically indistinguishable from your engine's perspective today. My Street Triple R manual specifies synth or semi-synth.
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Apr 25, 2020 05:52
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:the Goldwing alternately smells of mouse poo poo and the vinegar I used to clean it You have an old one right? I'm checking out a 1982 GL1100 soon. Anything in particular I should inspect, or ask the owner, on older Goldwings?
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Apr 25, 2020 22:00
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Yep, I have an 86 Aspencade 1200 Mostly the stator. It’s an engine-out procedure to replace if it blows. Not impossible, but obnoxious. And as we all know, despite Honda’s reputation for reliability and engineering, they never truly figured out the charging system on any of their bikes ever. Bring a multimeter with and check the voltage with the bike revved to like 3 or 4 grand. It should be around 13.5 volts or above at that RPM (maybe consult google for the exact numbers, 13.5-14 volts is for the 1200, not sure if the 1100 differs). Also check the connector that connects the stator to the rest of the wiring harness. They tend to get dirty and burn up which is what kills the stator. On the 1200 it’s under the left side plastic cover that just pops off easily. The wires are all yellow, and there are 3 of them If the connector looks good and the bike charges you’re good. Clean the connector and fill it with dielectric grease or cut it out of the harness and directly solder the wires when you get home. If the connector looks burnt and the bike charges, you’re good, but snip that connector out when you get it home and directly solder the wires together without the connector If the connector looks good, or burnt and the bike doesn’t charge, prepare to do a stator and ask for a hefty discount. A Goldwing with a bad stator can still be a good buy for the right price if you’re willing to put in the work. Outside of that it’s standard used bike stuff. Roll the rear wheel with it on the center stand and make sure the rear diff and driveshaft don’t make noise or bind up. They’re generally very hardy as long as the bike didn’t live a life of drag racing or something. Check whatever electronics it has (radio, gauges, lights, etc) for functionality. The amount of electronics on a Goldwing seem scary but they’re very well laid out if you grab a wiring diagram off the internet. Does it run well? Make any noises, smoke or smells? Carbs seem decently tuned? Usual stuff. Also, when you first see the bike, note if it’s on the center stand or side stand. If it’s on the sidestand, don’t be surprised if it smokes a bit on startup. As long as the smoke stops after a minute that’s fine. It’s a boxer motor, and when it sits on the sidestand, some oil will seep up into the piston skirt and past the rings and make a little smoke when it starts. A lot of owners don’t realize this and just park it on the sidestand because that’s easier than getting it on the center stand Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Apr 26, 2020 |
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Apr 26, 2020 14:46
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Awesome, thanks. It was stored on the center stand, no smoking on startup. Startup was sluggish, a lot of effort to turn over, but once running it purred. I forgot my drat multimeter. That stator connector looked fine. Moving the rear wheel while on the center stand, no noises coming from the driveshaft, but some squeaking from the rear caliper. I rode it gingerly around the parking lot, more squeaking from the rear brakes. No extra electronics, it was a Standard. I haven't ridden enough carbed bikes to know what out-of-sync carbs sound like. But I have cleaned my lawn mower's carb, so I'm not entirely unfamiliar, that counts right!? After having it running for about 5 minutes, while on the side stand, there was a drop of oil hanging from the lowest point on the left side of the motor. Couldn't really trace where that was coming from, but something's weeping somewhere. It was in good shape otherwise, but it didn't blow me away and I have a couple more that are listed in the area to look at. It would be cool to have one, it'd be like owning a piece of history! At least that's what I'm telling myself now. Will probably be kicking myself later. I moved recently, and I finally have a small garage (turning wenches outdoors and in parking garages the last 10 years has really sucked), so I'm trying to convince myself that's it's OK to take on a bike that needs some TLC. Edit: forgot to mention, the speedo didn’t work, and the tires were from 2012. When I mentioned the tires, the owner said “oh great, so they’re good for a while then”. Didn’t really inspire confidence 
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Apr 27, 2020 02:40
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Eh, I got mine swearing up and down that I was gonna sell it and get something else immediately. Then It was “well I have to get it running right before I can sell it” Then it was “well now it’s winter and the prices are down” Then it was “I have to get the Speedo fixed” Then it was “bikes aren’t selling in quarantine” Meanwhile I ride it every day and am just starting to accept that even though I SHOULDNT like it, I do.
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Apr 27, 2020 03:46
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Two questions: 1) Is ~$200 for a used M4 carbon slip-on for my 2008 SV650SF a good/half decent price? 2) Do I need to buy some sort of gasket, o-ring, or red RTV to put on the slip-on to avoid an exhaust leak?
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Apr 28, 2020 03:43
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1) if it's in good nick, and you like the design, sure. 2) Usually it's a graphite collar. It's in most designs in the flange on the slip on, so it will be included with the slip on. If the old one is partly missing replace. if it's just compressed and used try it first, you will see soot and sound if it leaks there. looks like this 
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Apr 28, 2020 07:27
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I've always done my own work on cars, bikes, and motorbikes, with the exception of tires which I've always taken in to a shop. Tires are a pain in the rear end for me the 1-2 times a year I have to do it, because I either have to borrow a car, or I haul the tires on a bicycle trailer which is a 3-hour ordeal. Looking at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAKIuSjPXxA this seems like something I might be able to do myself with irons. Is this reasonable as a DIY thing or am I going to hate life if I try? One complication is that I don't have an air compressor, can you seat a bead with a gas station compressor or do you need something with a bigger reservoir?
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Apr 30, 2020 02:44
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I find tire changing easy, some people claim it's hell on earth and the shop fee is more than worth it. You'll almost definitely need an air compressor, but I've changed a tire roadside and used the nearest gas station to seat the bead and air it up, so that'll work if you need.
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Apr 30, 2020 04:17
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Ulf posted:I've always done my own work on cars, bikes, and motorbikes, with the exception of tires which I've always taken in to a shop. Tires are a pain in the rear end for me the 1-2 times a year I have to do it, because I either have to borrow a car, or I haul the tires on a bicycle trailer which is a 3-hour ordeal. It's not a "safe" method but it works.
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Apr 30, 2020 04:25
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Every time someone asks about changing tires I post this because I think it’s so helpful for the first time (and also every time after, shut up). https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-17%22-mega-tire-iron-p
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Apr 30, 2020 13:20
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The only bike I change tires on is my RV90, because it has split rims like an ATV so there are no irons involved. The SV and Goldwing? Nah
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Apr 30, 2020 15:33
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Dirt tires are one thing but I feel like road tires would be a whole other beast without a tire changing machine.
Verman fucked around with this message at 02:10 on May 2, 2020 |
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Apr 30, 2020 23:06
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I bought a http://tiremountingtool.com/tmt5/ with the http://tiremountingtool.com/tmt/ and a quiver full of tire irons a couple of years ago. I cannot recommend it enough, I change 25+ tires a year. The trickiest tires (Dakar series, etc) gets a bath in hot water first to get malleable. A small compressor (20l tank), a bead breaker stand and lots of dishwashing soap is also recommended. Road tires needs some plastics to avoid scuffing, and tubed tires needs a wire thingy for getting the valve stems through the rim. Hey, if you buy a bigger compressor you're not very far from driving stud guns and making your own winter tires. helstein fucked around with this message at 23:19 on May 1, 2020 |
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May 1, 2020 23:10
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Am I correct that to add an aftermarket TPMS to a road bike, I'd need to deflate the tire, slightly break the bead to replace the valve stem, but then I should just be able to air the tire back up and have everything be fine?
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May 1, 2020 23:32
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You can get TPMS sensors that take place of the valve caps which require none of that AFAIK, but I’ve yet to see a positive review of anything that cheap — always seem a few PSI off, up to like 10 in some bad cases.
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May 1, 2020 23:41
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People that change their own tires: how do you balance them?
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May 2, 2020 09:00
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helstein posted:I bought a http://tiremountingtool.com/tmt5/ with the http://tiremountingtool.com/tmt/ and a quiver full of tire irons a couple of years ago. I cannot recommend it enough, I change 25+ tires a year. The trickiest tires (Dakar series, etc) gets a bath in hot water first to get malleable. No option for 17" rims? Or is that what the second link attachment is for?
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May 2, 2020 09:21
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High Protein posted:People that change their own tires: how do you balance them? Static balance with the axle on some wood blocks. The only issue I ever found was a heavy spot right on some balancing weights from before. Took them off, no problems, weird wear or even the slightest hint of vibration over 40000+ kms and multiple tires front and rear. The one time I had a tire changed in a shop, they put weights on. But the first thing I noticed was that the guy hadn't lined the red dot up with the valve.
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May 2, 2020 10:16
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High Protein posted:People that change their own tires: how do you balance them? Harbor Freight tire balancer
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May 2, 2020 21:27
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Renaissance Robot posted:No option for 17" rims? Or is that what the second link attachment is for? There's lots of options, you just select another hole in the preset against the rim (16" to 21"). The "down hake" has another setting as well, it is enough for normal dirt tires but is too tight for fatter street tires. The "up-pin" has some additional settings, for getting the tire off beadlock from below. I've changed everything from 120/80R16 to 180/55R17, but not larger rims than 90/100R19. Getting an old, dry tire off can still be a bit of a good workout (even when soaked in 60c water for a while), but getting new ones on is kind of like cheating. helstein fucked around with this message at 22:01 on May 2, 2020 |
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May 2, 2020 21:56
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I'm trying to replace a few bolts on my bike (stupid PO. okay, stupid me also) and I don't know what the head shape is called. They're hex bolts with a flange and the head has a concave cavity in the top, but round not hex-shaped. Does anyone know what these are called so I can try to order some replacements?
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May 3, 2020 22:02
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Do you have a photo? Genuinely curious as I can’t see it in my mind’s eye.
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May 3, 2020 22:06
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Like this? e/ if yes then look for "dimpled flange bolt" or "race spec bolt" (the latter will also get you a ton of results with safety wire holes drilled through) Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 22:23 on May 3, 2020 |
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May 3, 2020 22:17
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E: ^^Yes! That’s the one. Thank you.Martytoof posted:Do you have a photo? Genuinely curious as I can’t see it in my mind’s eye. Ugh fiiiiine  Guess I need to wash it
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May 3, 2020 22:28
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