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It's just a flange bolt. The dimple in the top is not important -- it just makes them look fancier. Match the length, diameter and pitch in zinc-plated (not galvanized!) steel and you'll be fine.
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May 3, 2020 22:40
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Sagebrush posted:It's just a flange bolt. The dimple in the top is not important -- it just makes them look fancier. Match the length, diameter and pitch in zinc-plated (not galvanized!) steel and you'll be fine. I was gonna say, at most the dimple saves a fraction of a gram, maybe.
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May 3, 2020 23:19
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Wow. Maybe a few grams don’t matter to you guys. I thought this was a serious motorcycle subforum. Really it’s just to please my compulsive side. And it would mean a little less grabbing different sockets and wrenches. The bike currently has a whole mix of those OEM flanged dimples bolts and various hardware store hex bolts. Including the two I added today.
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May 4, 2020 00:17
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Renaissance Robot posted:I was gonna say, at most the dimple saves a fraction of a gram, maybe. Iirc it's a money/material saving method from WW2 era Japan that stuck.
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May 4, 2020 01:51
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Sagebrush posted:It's just a flange bolt. The dimple in the top is not important -- it just makes them look fancier. Match the length, diameter and pitch in zinc-plated (not galvanized!) steel and you'll be fine. Woah I had always thought that galvanised and zinc plated were the same thing. Is it the difference between electroplated and mechanically plated then?
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May 4, 2020 08:36
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Dimpled bolts look cooler  Honda typically only uses them for suspension and brake parts. Axle pinch bolts and caliper mount bolts are always dimpled. They also seem like they are a higher quality steel but they might just manufactured better.
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May 4, 2020 11:10
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Ahh nvm
epswing fucked around with this message at 14:50 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 14:37
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Hey, how does MSRP work with new bikes? Does anyone here bargain down? Does suzuki ever run deals on DR650s? Edit: the trick is to use the word "incentive " so you don't just get returns for a bunch of DEALerships. Looks they have a promotion right now. http://www.suzukicycles.com/Offers.aspx Edit 2: I read this and have a much better idea of what I might be able to get negotiate for: https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/negotiating-new-motorcycle-purchases-some-dos-and-donts Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 17:44 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 15:27
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knox_harrington posted:Woah I had always thought that galvanised and zinc plated were the same thing. Is it the difference between electroplated and mechanically plated then? Yep. Zinc-plated is electroplated and galvanized is dipped into molten zinc. The thicker coating that builds up on galvanized parts means that galvanized nuts and bolts are toleranced to fit with each other, and not (properly) with bare or plated fasteners. You can use galvanized hardware for like a nut and bolt on an exhaust hanger if you're feeling particularly farmerly, but you don't want to use galvanized bolts for e.g. engine case because they won't thread properly. Galvanized bolts are strong and corrosion resistant but don't fit precision threaded holes properly. Plain steel (black oxide coated) bolts are strong and properly shaped but will rust over time. Stainless steel bolts are properly shaped and corrosion resistant but they're significantly weaker than plain steel unless you buy special grades. Zinc plated bolts are corrosion-resistant, strong, and fit properly. Use them.
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May 4, 2020 18:39
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Also galv bolts on alloy parts seem to turn white and fuzzy very quickly, I can barely remember anything about the galvanic scale but I'm sure that's the reason.
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May 4, 2020 21:25
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Slavvy posted:Iirc it's a money/material saving method from WW2 era Japan that stuck. That definitely makes more sense to me than if it was about shaving ounces for racing
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May 5, 2020 01:16
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Gorson posted:Dimpled bolts look cooler Gang tag Bimpled Dolts
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May 5, 2020 21:34
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Got a fun one! This morning I go to start the 125 and it just makes that horrible EEEKKKH sound that means something's hosed. Luckily it has a kickstarter too and that still works. On the way to work I notice that every time I stop, the tach drops to zero (though the engine is still running). Managed to reproduce this and determine it happens whenever I have both the brake light and tail light illuminated. If I switch the running lights off, it works as normal. If I pull up to a stop, grab the brake, and then turn on the running lights, the tach continues to work for a few seconds before dropping to zero. Switching the running lights off again, or releasing the brake, makes the needle rise back to idle. If I leave the tach at zero for longer before switching off the lights, it stays at zero and only revving the engine brings it back. I suspect something has grounded out and/or melted, and continues to melt. Lucky I've got a four day weekend to find it. Oh yeah also this bike has a history of blowing out headlights, they never last more than a few weeks if that.
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May 6, 2020 09:14
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I'd be checking the reg/rec first, if that goes it starts to take other things with it
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May 6, 2020 09:40
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Shelvocke posted:I'd be checking the reg/rec first, if that goes it starts to take other things with it This and the grounds would be my first place to look, check the charging voltage!
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May 6, 2020 09:42
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Renaissance Robot posted:Got a fun one! Did you have any of it taken apart recently? In addition to the above, or after you've ruled them out, check continuity on the lighting circuit for a short to ground. Could be a chafed wire grounding out on the frame somewhere. A 125 probably hasn't got enough power to charge at idle, so you're running off battery. An intermittent short will drain that batter faster. The screeching was probably the starter - they do that when they haven't got enough juice to turn the engine over.
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May 6, 2020 13:15
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My first rule of moto electrics: assume the battery is bad. Give yourself a known good 12v source by jumping to a car battery. Don't run the car!
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May 6, 2020 13:36
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Battery voltage, off: 11.07v IGN on, no lights: 10.77v, slowly decreasing IGN on, tail light on: 9.30v, rapidly decreasing Running idle: 10.7v Running 5000rpm: 9.0v  The higher I rev the lower the voltage across the battery gets. Something is definitely super hosed and I don't think it's just the battery, I'll dig into it more tomorrow.
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May 6, 2020 17:49
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Congrats you're getting a battery and a rectifier and maybe a stator and possibly something is shorted to earth somewhere to kick all this off.
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May 6, 2020 20:21
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https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf + multimeter. DO NOT STOP when you find one error. Check both the stator and rectifier! It sucks rear end waiting for one of them, and find the other one also broken when it's still not working. Ask me how I know.. That was an annoying 2 extra weeks to wait for more parts.
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May 6, 2020 20:58
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Supradog posted:https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf + multimeter. 
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May 6, 2020 21:24
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Supradog posted:https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf + multimeter. Thanks for this, looks comprehensive and easy enough to follow. Lucky I have a good manual and wiring diagram to hand as well.
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May 6, 2020 21:52
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This makes me glad I just got a voltmeter for the Goldwing. Turns out it’s putting out perfect voltage for now
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May 7, 2020 00:20
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Renaissance Robot posted:Battery voltage, off: 11.07v Since the battery at rest is 11.0v, it was not receiving a charge which makes me think it was collateral damage from the charging system failing. At the very least the battery is gone but I think it might also be the stator wiring or stator/rotor itself. This would explain the noise.
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May 7, 2020 06:32
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Nah, I tried the electric starter again when I was taking voltages and the noise is very definitely coming from the battery itself, or a component next to it that I think might be the CDI (which visibly had some kind of dust falling out of it every time I hit the button). The starter and alternator are way off at the other end of the bike, I'd have been able to tell if it was coming from there.
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May 7, 2020 07:23
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That sounds like the starter relay buzzing because there isn't enough juice there to keep the contacts closed and operate the starter. Just means you have a really really dead battery.
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May 7, 2020 07:51
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Renaissance Robot posted:a component next to it that I think might be the CDI (which visibly had some kind of dust falling out of it every time I hit the button). This did turn out to be the starter relay, the positive terminal of which is corroded to gently caress. The dust was red and white rust shaking off. e/ if I've done these tests right, the RR is fine but the stator is busted. I'm getting 10 ohms on one pair of leads and NC on the other two. How does this thing even run??? e2/ I should probably replace the starter as well huh? 
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 14:03 on May 7, 2020 |
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May 7, 2020 13:11
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The bike I had the issue with (93 transalp) would also happily run with only 2 of the 3 stator windings(?) working, slowly draining the battery and getting dimmer lights, but no problems with spark when already running.
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May 7, 2020 13:56
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Thinking about it, if the output from the alternator was exceptionally weak, would that explain the tach dropping out when I have more lights running? The system can't cope with all the demands on it so stuff starts dropping out as the regulator struggles to supply enough juice?
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May 7, 2020 14:21
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Yeah, for electronic gauges (even if they have analog dials) that absolutely will happen
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May 7, 2020 16:27
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That sounds like the alternator is putting out nothing, and you're running the ignition off the battery, which would explain the dip in voltage as RPM goes up.
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May 7, 2020 17:20
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Crikey it looks like:Slavvy posted:Congrats you're getting a battery and a rectifier and maybe a stator and possibly something is shorted to earth somewhere to kick all this off.
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May 7, 2020 20:37
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Maybe one of you guys can help me. Whenever corona allows it, I'll have my motorcycle test and I'm starting to panic because of two issues. I am taking the test on a Honda CB650F which even at the slightest twist of the throttle revs up to about 5000. My instructor can get it to go to 3-4k RPM, but I can't do it consistently whatsoever. I am also having issues with the "tight right from a stop" portion of the test, which requires you to start straight and then turn right in about a lane. I just can't do it consistently and everything I can find online suggests twisting the handlebar to the max from the getgo, which is definitely not allowed here. Maybe anyone can give me some helpful tips, my research is coming up empty. My best friend offered me to train on their bike, which is way nicer in the revving department, but I layed her down on the grass in the parking spot after a bit so obviously that option is out the window now. But at least the bike didn't take any damage... I don't really know what to do, my instructor said I can probably get my license regardless, but I am really unhappy with all of this and it's getting me down and I don't really see taking more lessons will help as his advice has done nothing but frustrate me and I feel like he's not really getting where my issue comes from (+ it's expensive) Edit: Thank you for coming to my TEDxSA talk, I will probably not be riding on any streets ever so no worries.
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May 9, 2020 19:20
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Use second gear instead of first, if it's not too difficult try controlling the bike by dragging the rear brake, makes it much easier to maintain a slow steady speed. For tight turns, turn your head as far back over your shoulder as you can, slip the clutch lots, try to lean opposite to the bike so you don't fall over if you lose too much speed. The big problem you seem to have is the bike lurching in the lower gears, you smooth that out with the clutch and rear brake, and by forcing yourself to look up, which reduces the sensation of speed and makes it possible to go fast enough for the bike's self-righting forces to come into play. If your instructor is not able to put this across he is a crap instructor and you need to find someone else. That is also a very big, very heavy bike to be learning basic drills on and you'd be much better off on something <250cc, it's not impossible but it's pretty terrible and a good part of your problem.
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May 9, 2020 19:51
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Comedy option: disconnect two of the fuel injectors. Now you have a lazy 325 twin! Don't actually do this because you will confuse your oxygen sensor and then your other two cylinders will run way too rich and you're gonna cook your cat. (unless you also want to block off the exhaust ports, but like seriously, this is a dumb idea.) Slightly less comedy option: get one of those chips they have in australia that plugs into the CB650R ECU and cuts the power in half. (Or a throttle tamer or something) DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 21:19 on May 9, 2020 |
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May 9, 2020 21:12
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As far as getting partial throttle openings on twitchy efi bikes goes, I've managed to get good results by just tightening my grip rather than consciously twisting my wrist. As your grip tightens you end up naturally twisting the throttle but only a tiny bit, this can allow you to hit those low revs if you want them.
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May 9, 2020 21:26
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It is 2020 and I wish companies could figure out how to make their fuel injected bikes as rideable as their carbureted bikes from the 90’s. Some are more guilty of this than others as well as being guilty of making their carbureted bikes worst than they needed to be. *coughyamaha*
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May 9, 2020 21:37
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This where Zero riders should quietly pull up to the conversation. "Ah, smooth throttle response, funny you should mention that..."
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May 9, 2020 21:41
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It is 2020 and I wish companies could figure out how to make their fuel injected bikes as rideable as their carbureted bikes from the 90’s. I'm just confused why the weird throttle cable cam thing isn't standard equipment on bikes. It's not like injection-molding a cam is harder than injection-molding a circle.
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May 9, 2020 21:46
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Slavvy posted:Use second gear instead of first, if it's not too difficult try controlling the bike by dragging the rear brake, makes it much easier to maintain a slow steady speed. I can't get on the brake fast enough for this, the test is to start at the side of the 4m wide lane and immediately turn. Also, the bike isn't my choice, I have to use a "big" bike because I am going directly for a "large" (A) license rather than the two smaller options (A1, A2) I'm not having issues with normal turns, but just doing this extremely narrow right turn from a standstill drill.
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May 9, 2020 22:02
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