|
Shelvocke posted:If you have a penchant for danger, use petrol! The degreaser I have is basically just a spray can full of kerosene.
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 04:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 15:41 |
|
|
Does anyone have recommendations for Android apps that can navigate from GPX files? I tried Kurviger, but the interface was clunky. I also tried CaliMoto, but that can't handle tracks that go off road. Audio directions would be a nice plus.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 14:08
|
|
|
So last year due to a hip problem I wasn't able to really ride and my bikes kind of sat, pretty well neglected, for a good 10 months to a year. I am a bad owner. I got them both up and running with fresh gas and new batteries but I have a 2006 Suzuki Katana 750 that now has a problem. I was riding it around town just fine, but I jumped on the highway and with more RPM it started to bog down and then had a real hard time staying running. Now I can only get it to stay running with the choke ON and leaving it at around 4,000RPM. If I relax the choke to bring the idle down below that the motor cuts out and dies. I will also say that I noticed a fuel smell around the bike which I have not smelled around this bike previously. I'm hoping that maybe this means I just have some sort of a fuel line issue? Clogged line, dirty filter? Like when I jumped on the throttle to get on the highway it started pushing more fuel and sucked some tank garbage in? I plan on taking it apart today to check it out but figured I'd run it past some people that actually know what they are doing to see if I'm at least headed in the right direction.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 14:10
|
|
|
The fuel has probably turned to crusty crack in your lines/carburettor, you'll likely need to take them out and clean and maybe replace the lines. At worst you're going to need to replace carb seals, at best some brand new fuel will sort you out if you put it in and run it for a bit. You may benefit from new plugs also. Fuel tends to go bad after only about a month these days. e: already fresh fuel, my bad. New hoses, clean your tank and petcocks, and then move on to cleaning carbs. Your jets are likely badly clogged. Deeters posted:Does anyone have recommendations for Android apps that can navigate from GPX files? I tried Kurviger, but the interface was clunky. I also tried CaliMoto, but that can't handle tracks that go off road. Audio directions would be a nice plus. OsmandX and Viewranger are what I use for greenlaning + following the TET Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 17:01 on May 16, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 16:56
|
|
|
Is there any online tool or chart that can identify substitute battery size options? My BMW takes a 12AL-A2, which is apparently really uncommon. I'm trying to find a replacement in a lithium battery, but not having any luck. A 14-BS seems similar, and is used in other BMWs, but I'm not sure I can swap it in. I'm in Canada, so some of the bigger online retailers won't ship to me, even though I've found one or two via their fitment tool. Those are sold under a brand name model number, so I can't even figure out what standard battery group size they are, either. Bike is a 2014 BMW G650GS (not Sertao) in case anyone knows what fits it.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 17:04
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Is there any online tool or chart that can identify substitute battery size options? For the lithium batteries, you can go physically smaller than the original size because they still have the necessary cold cranking amps (capacity is reduced when going to lithium though). Why do you want lithium instead of a Yuasa?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 17:24
|
|
|
Gonna Send It posted:For the lithium batteries, you can go physically smaller than the original size because they still have the necessary cold cranking amps (capacity is reduced when going to lithium though). Why do you want lithium instead of a Yuasa? Yeah, I know I can go smaller as long as I match CCA. Hoping to get somewhat similar amp hours, too. I don't ride as often as I'd like, and our winter is the best 10 months of the year, so I'd like something more enduring.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 17:32
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Yeah, I know I can go smaller as long as I match CCA. Hoping to get somewhat similar amp hours, too. It looks like this will fit based on the dimensions, no idea if available in Canada though: https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-Tender-5.0AH-300CA-Lithium-Engine-Start-Battery-w-Smart-BMS YB12AL-A2: Dimensions: 5 5⁄16 in. x 3 3⁄16 in. x 6 5⁄16 in. Battery Tender: Dimensions: 5.3 x 3 x 5.5 inches e: found it https://www.amazon.ca/Supersmart-Lithium-Battery-5-0AH-300CCA/dp/B07JRBV3W9
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 17:43
|
|
|
Shelvocke posted:The fuel has probably turned to crusty crack in your lines/carburettor, you'll likely need to take them out and clean and maybe replace the lines. At worst you're going to need to replace carb seals, at best some brand new fuel will sort you out if you put it in and run it for a bit. Thanks for the tips.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 17:48
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Is there any online tool or chart that can identify substitute battery size options? Fortnine.ca has five different batteries for your bike, including a shorai lithium part# LFX14L5-BS12
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 19:16
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:You can get away with a breaker bar and an assistant to do the front sprocket nut but it's not easy, so an impact gun is ideal but not mandatory. Cool, I've already bought into the Ryobi system so I'll just pick up an impact wrench in case I can't break it loose - guess I'll get an angle grinder too. I already got my chain - 112 links for the DCT model, clip type, so I should be good there. As for the stands - do I just need a rear stand, like a Pitbull? I have no place to put spools/bobbins on my rear swingarm. Could I get away with one of those hydraulic stands, since it's easier to use and will lift the whole bike?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 19:54
|
|
|
Bernie Panders posted:Cool, I've already bought into the Ryobi system so I'll just pick up an impact wrench in case I can't break it loose - guess I'll get an angle grinder too. I already got my chain - 112 links for the DCT model, clip type, so I should be good there. You only need a rear stand. Those hydraulic ones are a trap for idiots and only work on dirt bikes basically, they do not work on big lumpy shaped street bikes with no flat bottom. You also don't need bobbins at all, every rear paddock stand I've ever seen has had removable fittings. They usually come with two sets: claws for bobbins and little rubber/plastic L brackets that just pick it up directly on the swingarm. Bobbins just make it possible to do alone, the bracket type needs an assistant.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 20:25
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:You only need a rear stand. Those hydraulic ones are a trap for idiots and only work on dirt bikes basically, they do not work on big lumpy shaped street bikes with no flat bottom. You also don't need bobbins at all, every rear paddock stand I've ever seen has had removable fittings. They usually come with two sets: claws for bobbins and little rubber/plastic L brackets that just pick it up directly on the swingarm. Bobbins just make it possible to do alone, the bracket type needs an assistant. I'm an idiot with a dirtbike/enduro and no assistant. Should I get a hydraulic one?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 20:59
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:You only need a rear stand. Those hydraulic ones are a trap for idiots and only work on dirt bikes basically, they do not work on big lumpy shaped street bikes with no flat bottom. You also don't need bobbins at all, every rear paddock stand I've ever seen has had removable fittings. They usually come with two sets: claws for bobbins and little rubber/plastic L brackets that just pick it up directly on the swingarm. Bobbins just make it possible to do alone, the bracket type needs an assistant. Thanks friendly rider person. I will report back in a few days and let you know how it went.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 21:11
|
|
|
ought ten posted:I'm an idiot with a dirtbike/enduro and no assistant. Should I get a hydraulic one?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 21:13
|
|
|
Supradog posted:Triple check actual lifting weight limit on that specific lifter. be realistic about you bike weight with extra crap on it. Also check height it can work in Vs your bikes actual height, not sitting height with sag. If you're removing a wheel it's nice if it's actually off the pavement. Thanks, I almost certainly would have hosed up some part of that.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 00:43
|
|
|
Deeters posted:Does anyone have recommendations for Android apps that can navigate from GPX files? I tried Kurviger, but the interface was clunky. I also tried CaliMoto, but that can't handle tracks that go off road. Audio directions would be a nice plus. OsmAnd can import GPX waypoints and navigate by them, but I don't know how it copes offroad.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 01:13
|
|
|
Shelvocke posted:OsmandX and Viewranger are what I use for greenlaning + following the TET goddamnedtwisto posted:OsmAnd can import GPX waypoints and navigate by them, but I don't know how it copes offroad. OSMand looks promising, once i switch it to Freedom Units. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 02:56
|
|
|
Supradog posted:https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf + multimeter. Okay so the tl;dr on my electrical problems from last week: turns out it was just a bad battery (and the starter which was obviously fried). The stator I ordered arrived and I did a continuity check on it right out of the box, and got the same readings as the one on the bike: 4 ohms between two white leads, NC on all other pairs. So I did some more research and it looks like while my stator leads superficially match the description in the above guide, the test description of checking continuity between three pairs of wires is incorrect for this type; my type should have 4 ohms on one pair of white leads, and 200-300 ohms between the third white lead and the red lead, which it does. This latter reading didn't register the first time I checked the one on the bike because I had the meter set to 20 ohms, expecting a reading in that range. So I left the old stator in, put in the new starter and a new battery reading 12.5v, started the bike, and it immediately went to 13v, then up to 14.04v when I revved it a bit, and no higher (so the RR is fine too). All fixed!  It is still a mystery why it keeps blowing headlight bulbs.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 09:34
|
|
|
ought ten posted:I'm an idiot with a dirtbike/enduro and no assistant. Should I get a hydraulic one? I am a dirt bike idiot and I bought a SwitZer hydraulic center lift that has worked really well. It has a 1500lb limit, so for anything flat bottomed except a GS (lol). Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 10:14 on May 17, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 10:12
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:Okay so the tl;dr on my electrical problems from last week: turns out it was just a bad battery (and the starter which was obviously fried). Chafed wire on the lighting circuit. Happened to me once. It was my own doing, I accidentally routed the wiring harness the wrong side of a metal standoff and the insulation rubbed though over time. The chafed bit only made intermittent contact with the ground, so it started out only doing it once in a while. Since you've got the meter now and a wiring diagram, disconnect the headlight connector and wherever it gets its power from and check the headlight circuit to ground and see if you have any high resistance (put the meter on its highest ohm setting). Shake the wiring harness around and see if the reading changes. If nothing, give it a thorough visual inspection to see if there's anywhere along the run where it could have been rubbing (that could be tedious).
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 14:01
|
|
|
Shelvocke posted:I am a dirt bike idiot and I bought a SwitZer hydraulic center lift that has worked really well. It has a 1500lb limit, so for anything flat bottomed except a GS (lol). There are also various levels of fancy of these: https://www.motosport.com/motosport-steel-lift-stand
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 14:02
|
|
|
if your dirt bike is in the sub 200 lb range, just work out until you can lift it onto a milk crate works for me!
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 22:46
|
|
|
To go with my post in the gear thread, I just got a ZX-6R that I'm planning to start doing track days with, and the first thing I want to do is put a steering damper on it. Anyone have any experience with the kawasaki one vs. ohlins?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
Minnesota Mixup posted:To go with my post in the gear thread, I just got a ZX-6R that I'm planning to start doing track days with, and the first thing I want to do is put a steering damper on it. Anyone have any experience with the kawasaki one vs. ohlins? Why do you need a steering damper on a 600?? Basically all the Japanese oem dampers are simple kyb units, an ohlins is a similar qualitative step as going from a factory shock to an ohlins one.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 23:30
|
|
|
My Zx6r has an oem Ohlins unit, it hasn't prevented headshake or stopped me from tucking the front, although I haven't tried riding without it. Owners on the forums have claimed that it differs in the internals from the aftermarket units, offering less damping; apparently it can be modified to improve it but I haven't tried it.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 23:43
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Why do you need a steering damper on a 600?? I have heard that they are a good piece of safety gear for track riding, so I am looking in to them. That's good to know about the makes of them. tzam posted:My Zx6r has an oem Ohlins unit, it hasn't prevented headshake or stopped me from tucking the front, although I haven't tried riding without it. This is also good information to have. Sounds like I should go straight for an Ohlins unit since there isn't much of a price difference in them. Guess I'll need to play with the dampening on it.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 23:56
|
|
|
That's quite common, the xj1300 famously has 'ohlins' shocks that are kyb's with an ohlins sticker, a lot of the factory fitted forks on Ducatis, Aprilias etc aren't 'real' ohlins. I don't see how a steering damper would stop you tucking the front. It literally just damps sudden movements, it can't create grip from nothing.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 23:57
|
|
|
Yeah I want it more for cases where the front is lifted and may not come down on axis, causing shake. I of course don't plan on doing that intentionally but why not spend a few hundred to have something help in the case that it does happen.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 00:10
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I don't see how a steering damper would stop you tucking the front. It literally just damps sudden movements, it can't create grip from nothing. Me neither, this is what I was told by some of the faster guys at the track. Never 'relied' on it for that!
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 00:46
|
|
|
I'm hearing a tapping? rattling? on my bike, almost always when accelerating from a stop. Sounds like it's coming from the front, maybe left side of the bike, for whatever that's worth. Sometime I'll hear it on a gear change, too. Nothing on idle or when goosing the throttle in neutral. Any chance this is a chain issue? Hoping it's not my bike's motor/transmission that's about to poo poo itself. It's a CTX700 so it's about as quiet as an electric, lol - hoping that chain and sprocket swap I talked about earlier will solve it as I don't treat my chain well.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 03:10
|
|
|
Bernie Panders posted:I'm hearing a tapping? rattling? on my bike, almost always when accelerating from a stop. Sounds like it's coming from the front, maybe left side of the bike, for whatever that's worth. Sometime I'll hear it on a gear change, too. Nothing on idle or when goosing the throttle in neutral. This is like that "My blue car is squeaking" post from the AI question thread, but ok Yes, a chain can produce rattling if it is old and worn, and especially if it's stretched. If it is stretched it could well be suffering from chain slap. Have you tensioned it recently? Have you lubed it recently? If not, do both, report back. DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 03:33 on May 18, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 03:25
|
|
|
ought ten posted:I'm an idiot with a dirtbike/enduro and no assistant. Should I get a hydraulic one? I love mine. Don’t use it super often, but if I’m doing anything more than basic poo poo on my DR650, I go ahead and put it on. Gets the bike higher, level, and easy to move around and swivel in a small space, plus stable. If I don’t finish the job I start, I can just wheel it around the garage out of the way. This weekend I swapped wheels and it was easy mode once up in the air. It’s big and heavy and hard to store, but if you have a garage it’s fine.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 03:30
|
|
|
Counterpoint: My DR murdered one of those hydraulic lifts. Straight up broke the welds on the support legs. It's a hefty chonker. Then I bought a bike with a center stand and really all bikes should have this.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 04:40
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:I love mine. Don’t use it super often, but if I’m doing anything more than basic poo poo on my DR650, I go ahead and put it on. Gets the bike higher, level, and easy to move around and swivel in a small space, plus stable. If I don’t finish the job I start, I can just wheel it around the garage out of the way. This weekend I swapped wheels and it was easy mode once up in the air. What kind do you have? Looks like the SwitZer mentioned earlier isn’t sold in the US.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 11:48
|
|
|
ought ten posted:I'm an idiot with a dirtbike/enduro and no assistant. Should I get a hydraulic one? Definitely. It will cover nearly every job you would have to do. Make sure to strap the bike or support the opposite wheel if you're going to remove a wheel or other heavy part from one side. I use a variety of stands:   1. Venom front stand. Pretty much junk, was cheap and I knew that going in. Had to widen it because it would scrape the rotors even at the widest setting. Not recommended, but if you already have one have it welded together for strength. I still need to do this. 2. Center hydraulic lift. Here it is holding up the center of the Hawk using a few pieces of wood as a cradle. This is just temporary while I swap out the motor. As others have said, these center lifts don't work very well on sportbikes or anything with plumbing or bodywork running below. With some welding or woodworking you can make a cradle for it, but that would be bike specific. My lift is whatever brand and the jack barely holds pressure anymore, needs to be replaced. 3. Pitbull rear stand. Worth every penny. Strong, stiff, super easy action when lifting. Highly, highly recommended. 4. I keep several sizes of those wooden dollies around. Very useful. So you've got a bunch of lifts, way to go smart guy! But what if you want to remove a swingarm? Steering head bearings? This rarely fails: 
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 12:12
|
|
|
ought ten posted:What kind do you have? Looks like the SwitZer mentioned earlier isn’t sold in the US. I have the Harbor Freight one. Now I’m concerned given that Coydog managed to break one.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 12:27
|
|
|
My cousin has a 2019 Harley Davidson, I have no idea what model or make or whatever it is. I'm not a bike person. But he flipped it recently and the dealership was telling him it'd cost almost $6,000 to fix, which is an absolute ripoff. The only things busted are the speedometer and the shift lever (I believe?). The speedometer seems like a pretty easy fix, I can just go buy a new one and it'll come with instructions on how to install it. The shift lever, however, has been completely bent out of whack, which means you can't depress it as it collides with the footrest, due to it being bent in towards the bike. Would I be able to dismantle that and straighten it out and things would be okay, or can the crash have caused some unseen damage on other components? We thought it'd be a fun little project to do as it doesn't seem too difficult to handle.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 12:43
|
|
|
Easiest way to find out if there's internal damage to the shift mechanism is take the shift lever off, straighten it out like you planned, then put it back and try shifting. It's probably fine though. If you can't beat it back into shape (depending how bent it is, it might just snap if you try) you should be able to buy a replacement without much trouble.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 12:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 15:41 |
|
|
I recommend a scissor-type jack (google Motorcycle Scissor Jack) over one of the hydraulic ones: easier to use as it's a simple platform instead of two rails, and there's no hydraulic pot to leak.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 12:58
|
|