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SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Winklebottom posted:

Playing around with some fire and ice effects. Fairly pleased but I need to try a proper wetblend at some point



That axe blade looks phenomenal.

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:

freehanding hazard stripes: harrowing



Mask it. Even if it's just one stripe, it ain't worth the pain, trust me.

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



The Moon Monster posted:

Larger, flatter brushes will help you get a smoother coat, as will getting paint to the right consistency (although that might be difficult with red). Do a single pass with a brush and only overlap your strokes on the wet edge of the painted area leaving the rest to dry completely before doing more coats. Best solution is an airbrush. I think I'd just avoid using washes at all on a surface like that, or use a small sharp brush so they only get in the recesses you're trying to shade, but I've never painted a knight so I can't speak from experience there.

Airbrushes are a bit outside my means, but otherwise that sounds really solid. I'll give it a whirl tonight, thanks :)

TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:

freehanding hazard stripes: harrowing



*cue heretical yelling of Iron Within, Iron Without*

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost

R0ckfish posted:

Got some more Orlocks done!



It may be because I just rewatched Event Horizon, but these guys look like the lovable scoundrel hired help in the last quarter of the sci-fi monster movie who decided to stay behind to slow down the baddies while the protagonists escape the exploding hive/crippled cargo ship/doomed colony about to self destruct. I like to think their names are Ishmael and Captain Cutter.

EDIT: Of course, when all seems lost for our plucky crew, immediately after they resign themselves to their bleak fate, the protagonists return on the escape ship to pick them up through the back hatch because test audiences loved them too much.

Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 17:38 on May 20, 2020

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:

freehanding hazard stripes: harrowing



While someone did suggest masking (the best choice imo, especially for aibrushing) consider also Micron pens. You can easily draw a line over the yellow with them and then fill in the stripe with black paint. If you're having trouble doing straight lines, use a piece of card to help guide you.

Micron pens in general are a really useful tool to have on hand. Makes doing writing on parchment a breeze.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Pakxos posted:

You're further along the quality curve than I am, if your goal is general improvement, I find it helpful to say this is my project for maintaining skills, with maybe one or two general improvements, and then have a model or model group that is for pushing myself, either because it has more details, I want to try a new painting technique or color scheme. That way I don't feel I am losing what I've already gained and I can select models which best fit what I want to learn. Granted, my versions of that are 'Use washes maybe?' and 'Sub-Assemblies and basing' but it does help keep things in balance.

I appreciate the thoughts and ideas, I'm kind of ordering my minis in my mind with this now.

Looking back at your posts in the thread you're stuff is very similar to where I was years ago, BUT I didn't paint for any of those years, I made about 4 changes to my setup and work methods - paint handle (the GW base holder), better lighting (2200 lumen dimmable lamp), wet palette (DIY), going slow and a lot of repositioning my hands and the model to be able to lock my hands/arms to the table or paint handle to quell my lack of brush control and shakey hands.

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free

grassy gnoll posted:

Mask it. Even if it's just one stripe, it ain't worth the pain, trust me.

Sadly due to the ongoing world events, getting think tape would take a week+

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

It may be because I just rewatched Event Horizon, but these guys look like the lovable scoundrel hired help in the last quarter of the sci-fi monster movie who decided to stay behind to slow down the baddies while the protagonists escape the exploding hive/crippled cargo ship/doomed colony about to self destruct. I like to think their names are Ishmael and Captain Cutter.

EDIT: Of course, when all seems lost for our plucky crew, immediately after they resign themselves to their bleak fate, the protagonists return on the escape ship to pick them up through the back hatch because test audiences loved them too much.

That's amazing, seems about right too!

NAGA LIU KANG
Jul 17, 2015

by Nyc_Tattoo
I kinda want to buy a underhive gang to paint. All the recent squad and model pics have been sick.

GigaFuzz
Aug 10, 2009

I'll post mine then, even if it brings the overall quality down!



Credit to The Sex Cannon's beautiful models in the Goonhammer article on Orlocks for inspiration (albeit with a different colour scheme).

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

tangy yet delightful posted:

a lot of repositioning my hands and the model to be able to lock my hands/arms to the table or paint handle to quell my lack of brush control and shakey hands.

This is the biggest thing i've learned. I think I was listening to voxcast podcast, and one guest was talking about things they took for granted but really needed to be communicated to novices, and it was having both arms stable and learning to have your brush hand in contact either with the model or the hand holding the model.

Learning that has really helped my steadiness and accuracy of painting.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
For lighting up a work space, any tips on what brand/model of bulb to get or should I just get whatever has a decent lumen count off Amazon?

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


get one that’s 4000K or 5000K, the cool/neutral colour temperature is arguably more important than how much light it puts out

jassi007
Aug 9, 2006

mmmmm.. burger...

Spanish Manlove posted:

For lighting up a work space, any tips on what brand/model of bulb to get or should I just get whatever has a decent lumen count off Amazon?

I bought 5000k 100w equivalents at Home Depot. I have two desk lamps with them. I just ordered these Neewer 2 Packs Dimmable 5600K USB LED Video Light with Adjustable Tripod Stand/Color Filters for Tabletop/Low Angle Shooting, Colorful LED Lighting, Product Portrait YouTube Video Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EwAXEb9HCMDNN

I want to have them over my shoulder.

Mugaaz
Mar 1, 2008

WHY IS THERE ALWAYS SOME JUSTICE WARRIOR ON EVERY FORUM
:qq::qq::qq:

NAGA LIU KANG posted:

I kinda want to buy a underhive gang to paint. All the recent squad and model pics have been sick.

Of all the people I know who buy these gangs, like 50% buy them just because they like the models. Other 50% like the models and want them for cultists/counts-as in 40k. 0% buy them to actually play Necromunda.

Thanqol
Feb 15, 2012

because our character has the 'poet' trait, this update shall be told in the format of a rap battle.

BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:

freehanding hazard stripes: harrowing



It's so much easier if you layer down some weathering/battle damage afterwards to cover any minor mistakes

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free

Thanqol posted:

It's so much easier if you layer down some weathering/battle damage afterwards to cover any minor mistakes

:corrupt:

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

GigaFuzz posted:

I'll post mine then, even if it brings the overall quality down!



Credit to The Sex Cannon's beautiful models in the Goonhammer article on Orlocks for inspiration (albeit with a different colour scheme).

I'm liking that purple cloth! I use Dechala Lilac as an extreme highlight on mine, but I'm going for a more sun-bleached look

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Finished my Lannister guardsmen last weekend, and last night I started on these Baratheon Wardens. These are great models, and as everyone here knows, I have a soft spot for knights decked out in full armor (it looks cool and its easy to paint :v: ).

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
How do you guys handle glazes in general? If I'm only glazing to blend highlights together, what color do I use for the glaze? The midtone?

Mugaaz
Mar 1, 2008

WHY IS THERE ALWAYS SOME JUSTICE WARRIOR ON EVERY FORUM
:qq::qq::qq:

Phi230 posted:

How do you guys handle glazes in general? If I'm only glazing to blend highlights together, what color do I use for the glaze? The midtone?

Anything works. Stuff with white in it is a huge pain in the rear end though. Naturally translucent colors are the best.

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free


Why did I want to do hazard stripes without any tape

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019

BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:



Why did I want to do hazard stripes without any tape

Because you have an inquisitive mind, resilient work ethic, and a willingness to fail in the pursuit of personal growth.

I think that looks fantastic for a non-tape hazard stripe paint job, my friend!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I finally got around to completing some marines that had been sitting unfinished for close to a year. Ignore the bases, I'm not sure I want to go with the Eldar Craftworld thing anymore:





That pebbly texture noticeable on the pauldrons is from spraying the matte too close :doh:

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:



Why did I want to do hazard stripes without any tape

Y'know, there's an entire house of Imperial Knights where hazard stripes are their thing. Come, join me in free-handing House Raven chevrons! :shepicide: Seriously though, it's a fun challenge, and your stripes look great :)

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free

inscrutable horse posted:

Y'know, there's an entire house of Imperial Knights where hazard stripes are their thing. Come, join me in free-handing House Raven chevrons! :shepicide: Seriously though, it's a fun challenge, and your stripes look great :)

First up those knights, then, a necromunda terrain set :catdrugs:

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

Phi230 posted:

How do you guys handle glazes in general? If I'm only glazing to blend highlights together, what color do I use for the glaze? The midtone?

I find blending darker colors over light ones is easier in general, not that you can't go the other way if you need to.

Pakxos
Mar 21, 2020

tangy yet delightful posted:

I appreciate the thoughts and ideas, I'm kind of ordering my minis in my mind with this now.

Looking back at your posts in the thread you're stuff is very similar to where I was years ago, BUT I didn't paint for any of those years, I made about 4 changes to my setup and work methods - paint handle (the GW base holder), better lighting (2200 lumen dimmable lamp), wet palette (DIY), going slow and a lot of repositioning my hands and the model to be able to lock my hands/arms to the table or paint handle to quell my lack of brush control and shakey hands.

Glad it was helpful! Question for you, and for anyone else, when you use a painting handle, how do you keep your hands steady? With a model on a base I can put my elbows on a table, put my palms together have the mini in my palms and use one hand to paint. But with the handle I tend to have one hand on it and my other hand separate. Is it just that the trade off of making sure you aren't touching the model while painting enough to overcome the stability hit?

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I've learned a very important lesson with my painting, and that's knowing when to stop. I've found that I hate assembly line painting and get sick of painting the same color on the same thing over and over. After doing a few models, I start getting impatient and that's when mistakes happen. I just need to put it down at that point and either take a break from painting or do something else. Just putting that out there in case there's other beginners like me with the same issue.

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair

inscrutable horse posted:

Y'know, there's an entire house of Imperial Knights where hazard stripes are their thing. Come, join me in free-handing House Raven chevrons! :shepicide: Seriously though, it's a fun challenge, and your stripes look great :)

I did one side of an Armiger carapace freehand (I watched Duncan do it so how hard could it be?!) and immediately ordered some masking tape as soon as I finished.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Pakxos posted:

Glad it was helpful! Question for you, and for anyone else, when you use a painting handle, how do you keep your hands steady? With a model on a base I can put my elbows on a table, put my palms together have the mini in my palms and use one hand to paint. But with the handle I tend to have one hand on it and my other hand separate. Is it just that the trade off of making sure you aren't touching the model while painting enough to overcome the stability hit?

You can absolutely still steady one hand with the other while holding a painting handle, it just depends how you hold them. Now, I cannot for the life of me understand how you are holding minis without the handle from that description to be honest, but when using a painting handle I usually end up with the heel of the paintbrush hand on the knuckles of the handle hand. If I cant manage that because of the angles I still fine I get some stability from just extending the pinky on my paintbrush hand and pressing it to the handle. But then I dont usually plant my elbows when I paint, the table I use for painting is more like a folding TV tray and is not even a little bit sturdy.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
I painted the Arcane Effigy and the Arcane Emissary for Malifaux.




inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



Inspector_666 posted:

I did one side of an Armiger carapace freehand (I watched Duncan do it so how hard could it be?!) and immediately ordered some masking tape as soon as I finished.

I just kludged together a rig for projecting lines onto the carapace, drew them on with a mechanical pencil, and did the rest freehand. Worked out well, but I've always had very steady hands. I did try masking off the carapace of the knight valiant I'm working on now, but it was honestly more trouble than it was worth, and I quickly aborted that particular method; the surface just undulates so much, and I don't have the patience to fiddle with sticky stuff.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
How do y'all feel about the Reaper learn to paint series?

I did the beginner box, and it was fine. Now I'm doing the Layer Up! box and they want you to do a base color and layer in the shadows and then the highlights? But isn't the way to layer you start dark and layer up?

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Phi230 posted:

But isn't the way to layer you start dark and layer up?

That's one way to do it, yes, and it's how a lot of beginners learn to paint. And in most cases it works perfectly fine.

But another way to do it is, rather than dark to light, you go from light to dark. This requires thinning paints down considerably and glazing them over light colors, going progressively darker with each new glaze. It's a tricky thing to learn and I'm not sure why Reaper is suggesting it there, but it's an especially good way to get smooth skin tones and better blends.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for a beginner, though. In this case, lay down the base color and get into the recesses with a slightly thinned-down shadow, then go to a highlight. Think of it like using a wash, if you've used those before--it's the same principle. A wet pallet helps greatly, but you can use a dry pallet in a pinch.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Slimnoid posted:

That's one way to do it, yes, and it's how a lot of beginners learn to paint. And in most cases it works perfectly fine.

But another way to do it is, rather than dark to light, you go from light to dark. This requires thinning paints down considerably and glazing them over light colors, going progressively darker with each new glaze. It's a tricky thing to learn and I'm not sure why Reaper is suggesting it there, but it's an especially good way to get smooth skin tones and better blends.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for a beginner, though. In this case, lay down the base color and get into the recesses with a slightly thinned-down shadow, then go to a highlight. Think of it like using a wash, if you've used those before--it's the same principle. A wet pallet helps greatly, but you can use a dry pallet in a pinch.

Reaper is specifically suggesting doing a basecoat, then using a layer consistency to fill the shadows, then touch up the basecoat with a layer consistency, then highlight up, then finally glaze to blend it together. Its strange and I've never seen it before.

NAGA LIU KANG
Jul 17, 2015

by Nyc_Tattoo

Electric Hobo posted:

I painted the Arcane Effigy and the Arcane Emissary for Malifaux.






I love the fire, it's so vibrant against the more grim and muted colors on the model and the glows are nice! I like how strange the Malifaux models are.

Edit: those minotaur glows are drat perfect

Torquemada
Oct 21, 2010

Drei Gläser

Pakxos posted:

Glad it was helpful! Question for you, and for anyone else, when you use a painting handle, how do you keep your hands steady? With a model on a base I can put my elbows on a table, put my palms together have the mini in my palms and use one hand to paint. But with the handle I tend to have one hand on it and my other hand separate. Is it just that the trade off of making sure you aren't touching the model while painting enough to overcome the stability hit?

I can rest my brush hand on my handle hand. I also hacked about 2/3rds off the length of some of my brushes, so painting with them is akin to using a stubby pencil. Did you know brushes are only so long because artists need to stand back from their canvases to see the canvas and the subject? I didn’t! Maybe give it a try with a cheap brush: it might help.

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Pakxos
Mar 21, 2020

Torquemada posted:

I can rest my brush hand on my handle hand. I also hacked about 2/3rds off the length of some of my brushes, so painting with them is akin to using a stubby pencil. Did you know brushes are only so long because artists need to stand back from their canvases to see the canvas and the subject? I didn’t! Maybe give it a try with a cheap brush: it might help.

That might be worth exploring. I'll keep practicing with the handle.

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