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Martytoof posted:I’m seeing one big steampunk bike in my mind’s eye All The Gears All The Time
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May 22, 2020 02:58
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 18:49 |
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Twin turbo diesel hydrostatic drive bike with air suspension? All of your hours and dreams: https://youtu.be/humZvaGnlsw
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May 22, 2020 03:26
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You'll probably get the suggestion from YouTube after you watch the video pun pundit linked, but that bike (slightly updated) was on an episode of Diesel Brothers. Looks like he added some particulate filters to the exhaust so it wasn't rolling coal everywhere it went.
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May 22, 2020 03:55
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Sagebrush posted:Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed. I thought the DN-01 but it has a hydraulic transmission.
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May 22, 2020 08:32
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Hydrostatic transmissions are notoriously not smooth. They put power down abruptly and take it away in the same manner. They don’t really have an ability to coast that doesn’t involve putting the drive unit in neutral. Source: many hours driving a forklift with a hydro drive I’m sure it’s a solvable problem, and I’m sure not every hydro drive is like a forklift but.........
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May 22, 2020 14:14
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Honda have a hydrostatic quad. For some reason they chose to generate the hydraulic pressure using the normal looking engine oil pump mounted in the normal place below the crank, driven the normal way by an untensioned small pitch chain. I know this because I had to replace the chain for the guy when it hopped off and stranded him in a paddock. I don't know the exact details of how the thing worked but I know this: it said hydro on the side and the thing wouldn't move forward until I replaced the pump chain, nothing else was touched. I'm assuming it was some sort of hybrid auto trans using engine oil pressure for the valve body and torque converter. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 21:02 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 21:00
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If I don't plan to use my Ninja 250 in the next few months, what would be the proper way to drain the fuel? I'm thinking I shut off the petcock, unclip the fuel line from petcock, attach an aux line instead then let that drain into a jerry can Run the bike until it dies of starvation Drain the floats by opening the drain valve Call it a day Am I way off base?
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May 22, 2020 21:46
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The NC700 seems like the perfect bike for a hydraulic drive. It's got basically the engine from a Honda Fit.
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May 22, 2020 21:52
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Martytoof posted:If I don't plan to use my Ninja 250 in the next few months, what would be the proper way to drain the fuel? I wouldn't start the bike at all, just drain the bowls using the drain screws. If your petcock has a prime setting use that, if not you'll have to set it to reserve and operate the vacuum diaphragm with your choice of suction generator.
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May 22, 2020 21:59
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I think I have a prime setting so I’ll run that, thanks. The fuel was stabilized way back when but I guess if I won’t be running it there’s no point in keeping it in there.
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May 22, 2020 22:14
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Martytoof posted:I think I have a prime setting so I’ll run that, thanks. The fuel was stabilized way back when but I guess if I won’t be running it there’s no point in keeping it in there. Fuel keeps air out which carries moisture and rusts the inside of the tank. I always figured it best to store the tank full with some stabilizer, but drain the carb bowls.
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May 22, 2020 23:01
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Dont drain your carbs Dont Drain Your Carbs DONT DRAIN YOUR CARBS Its an old wives tale born from people not draining their carbs and then letting the bike sit for 20 years and coming back and being all "HOLYSHIT GUESS I SHOULD HAVE DRAINED THE CARBS HUH?" If the bike is going to be sitting for a bit, just leave it with the stabilized gas, as mentioned it keeps air and moisture out, which will make for more problems than stabilized fuel will. Now if you're saying "this bike is sitting until 2030 at the earliest" then its a different story e: and especially dont drain your tank unless you own stock in evaporust
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May 22, 2020 23:51
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Uuh no. Drain the bowls. Even a months' worth of sitting can gently caress things up depending on your petrol. There is literally no reason not to. Like yeah there's a solid argument in favor of filling the tank to the brim but carbs are exposed to atmosphere so it makes no sense, at best you'll be left with some petrol-smelling stuff that won't burn and you'll drain the bowls anyway. I'll phrase it differently: Number of bikes I've had to work on because someone drained the bowls: 0. Number of bikes I've had to work on because someone didn't drain the bowls: 9,976,989,000 and counting. And while I'm here: if you have a modern bike your tank won't rust up because it's hermetically sealed when there's no pressure differential and all the holes are shut, done it many many times with no issues living in one of the most clammy moist countries in earth but ymmv Slavvy fucked around with this message at 00:49 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 00:42
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Definitely drain the bowl. After cleaning out the carb of the horror xr100 my dad bought and then having to do my 300 xcw after forgetting to turn the pet cock to off before winter ... Don’t let it sit there with pump gas in it
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May 23, 2020 01:16
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Dont drain your carbs Unless, as was said, the bike is going to sit for years. Then it's good to get the gas out of the whole bike entirely and you might want to spray WD40 into the tank or something like that to prevent rust.
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May 23, 2020 01:51
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OK so like in all seriousness I don’t see myself touching the bike in 2020 so Drain bowls yes Drain tank no I can live with that. I will probably pull it out if I decide to do baby’s first track day next year, or end up selling it. Even then, new gas is cheap so as long as it doesn’t separate and rust my tank I guess I’m fine if I have to drain it next year. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:06 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 02:04
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Slavvy posted:And while I'm here: if you have a modern bike your tank won't rust up because it's hermetically sealed when there's no pressure differential and all the holes are shut, done it many many times with no issues living in one of the most clammy moist countries in earth but ymmv If you leave it half-full in an area with big temperature swings fuel evaporating and cooling will draw *some* air in, but I suspect that particular bit of wisdom is based on older systems with effectively an open vent to atmosphere which would speed the process up a lot. Best excuse I've heard for doing it though is "Not like it's gonna be any loving cheaper when you do go to fill it up, is it?".
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May 23, 2020 02:15
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Martytoof posted:OK so like in all seriousness I don’t see myself touching the bike in 2020 so If you do leave it with a full tank, give the fuel a good stir (with a wooden stick, or just shake the bike/tank a bit) just in case the fuel has separated a bit or sediment has settled out of it. Not essential, but not a bad insurance thing.
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May 23, 2020 02:17
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I have two sweet ATC's in my garage right now that my buddy bought because they "just ran last winter" that both had the slides glued into the carb body by ethanol gas
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May 23, 2020 02:52
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Just fill the tank all the way with non ethanol gas if you can find it, put in fuel stabilizer, and start it once a week and let it warm up, maybe take it around the block if it's nice. The shop I worked at used to store about a hundred bikes over the winter and it was never a problem. Incidentally I never had to spend more than 15 minutes doing the post-winter "tune up" on any of them because I knew the bikes all ran great like a few days before, whereas the customers that kept their own bikes at home and didn't pay for storage wound up spending twice the storage fee in carb cleans air filters and replacing whatever rubber seals poo poo the bed while they didn't touch it for 6 months. If you're going into long storage (longer than a year) you could go all out and fill the bowls with seafoam and then pour about a third of the can into the full gas tank. Disconnect the battery, and remove the air filter (in case rodents decide to nest) and be done with it. This is assuming your bike will not sit out at below freezing for a whole winter or will be stored in an area where it doesn't get to like -20. In which case you might want to do something about the cooling system so you don't pop a hose or crack a block.
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May 23, 2020 02:57
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Marty said the gas was stabilized, so it shouldn’t be congealing into anything for a good while. Which is why I’m on the don’t drain them train. If it was untreated then yeah probably drain it E: to be very clear, I’m with you guys if the gas is untreated. Drain it if it’s going to sit. If it’s treated though? I’ve let bikes sit for more than a year with treated gas and they’ve fired up fine.
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May 23, 2020 03:03
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All this apocryphal carb bullshit, man... #fuelinjectedlyfe
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May 23, 2020 03:08
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I too choose to cut myself off from decades of awesome bikes over fuel delivery.
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May 23, 2020 04:56
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Eh. gently caress 'em. I'm lazy, EFI is easy to maintain and I can deal with choppy low-end throttle/pulling my ECU and paying someone to flash it or flashing it myself. My admittedly limited experience with carb maintenance and tuning was pretty much all bad. The smooth throttle response on a well-tuned carb is really nice, though.
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May 23, 2020 05:24
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Rate my Sprockets  Leaning towards 'marginal' for the rear, and 'dangerously hosed' for the front. I didn't get my front sprocket in time for the weekend and was hoping just to replace the chain. Looks like it'd be a waste to do that, right? Don't look at my chain condition, I will take better care of the next one 
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May 23, 2020 15:45
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Is the front ambidextrous? Just flip it.
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May 23, 2020 19:35
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Aren't sprockets only a problem if the teeth start becoming visibly asymmetric, like a cartoon shark fin? I'm an idiot on the internet, but I always thought that was the criterion. (Either that or they become sharp and pointy at the top, which yours don't seem to have done either) Edit: ok I guess they are kind of asymmetric, now that I look closer. DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 20:03 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 19:59
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Those are hosed and it is entirely your fault Bernie 
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May 23, 2020 20:12
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Mirconium posted:Aren't sprockets only a problem if the teeth start becoming visibly asymmetric, like a cartoon shark fin? I'm an idiot on the internet, but I always thought that was the criterion. I mean, that’s MY criterion. I once ran a sprocket so long the shark fins rounded off into nubs.
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May 23, 2020 20:31
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I've heard you can get a lot more life out of the chain and rear sprocket by changing the front sprocket before they get that worn, the explanation being that fronts wear much sooner because they're smaller, so while all three parts cover the same distance the wear is more concentrated on the front sprocket. Swapping the front sprocket isn't hard and they're only  a pop, so I threw a couple in with my order of engine oil just now to do whenever I can get around to it.
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 21:38 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 21:34
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I just paid $35 for an OEM Honda front sprocket, dammit
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May 24, 2020 00:58
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That thing ain’t even shark finned or making hooks yet, it’s got another few thousand miles on it.
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May 24, 2020 03:40
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Agreed. It looks fine. If you put a chain onto a few teeth of the sprocket and hold the sprocket in place, you shouldn't be able to slide the chain forward or back much if any at all. It should feel locked into the sprocket. A healthy sprocket should have a clearly symmetrical tooth with a machined face and some thickness on the top of the tooth in both length and width. The deep rounded sections should be round, not oblong or pill shaped. Once they get thin, sharp and asymmetrical (look like curved share fins) with deep out of round grooves, it's done. 
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May 26, 2020 03:09
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Putting barkbusters on my 690, I discovered the dealership put the throttle body on way off center so the throttle tube ended about 4" past the handlebar. I actually don't know how I didn't notice riding it home. Is there any (competent) reason they would do this? Think I should I go to a different dealership for the first service?
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May 26, 2020 19:11
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no. yes.
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May 26, 2020 19:19
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GlazedMcGuffin posted:Putting barkbusters on my 690, I discovered the dealership put the throttle body on way off center so the throttle tube ended about 4" past the handlebar. I actually don't know how I didn't notice riding it home. I wouldn't recommend having a dealer do a first service period. you're gonna get charged a couple hundred for an oil change that'll cost you maybe $60 in materials and at least in the US your warranty can't be denied for you doing your own maintenance. also maxima is cheaper oil and is a very good motorex substitute imho totally your call, but if you do want a dealer to do it then I'd recommend going elsewhere since uncrating a bike isn't exactly a valve adjustment and I like to trust the people who work on my things
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May 26, 2020 20:28
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Oh hell no then, I was entirely gonna do it for warranty reasons. That is extremely good info, thank you
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May 26, 2020 21:25
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GlazedMcGuffin posted:Oh hell no then, I was entirely gonna do it for warranty reasons. That is extremely good info, thank you of course! I did my first service myself as did my brother. he had his fuel pump + filter swapped under warranty with no issues or pushback. same with his rotors as KTM has had some issues with their OEM brembos for quite some time. my running joke is that he got a friday bike while mine was definitely a wednesday bike  for a first service I really recommend just changing your two filters and oil. service manual will state to "check" the screens, but oil change kits will run you ~$100 since they include replacement screens as well as oil and filters only other thing you need to do is check all your fluid heights and then check the tightness of all your external fasteners. shouldn't be more than a three beer job
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May 26, 2020 21:50
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GlazedMcGuffin posted:Putting barkbusters on my 690, I discovered the dealership put the throttle body on way off center so the throttle tube ended about 4" past the handlebar. I actually don't know how I didn't notice riding it home. That's terrifying. What else got messed up if they didn't even care to put that on right. Probably felt a little resistance and called it. Don't KTM have drilled bars so you'd have to have it lined up so the pin goes in? I wish they let the buyer uncrate and assemble themselves for this reason, if asked. My friend wanted to uncrate his FZ09 himself, and the dealer was having none of it.
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May 26, 2020 22:58
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 18:49 |
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Coydog posted:Don't KTM have drilled bars so you'd have to have it lined up so the pin goes in? correct, but that’s only on the left side. still pretty inexcusable to not just install it correctly Coydog posted:I wish they let the buyer uncrate and assemble themselves for this reason, if asked. My friend wanted to uncrate his FZ09 himself, and the dealer was having none of it. lol I asked the same thing when I bought mine. got a hearty chuckle, but no dice. KTMs a bit weirder with their activations and connection with the mothership in austria though so it’s a bummer yamaha wouldn’t do it either
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May 27, 2020 01:51
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