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If you’re financing and not in a position to buy the bike outright then I would probably not use a CC before A) really thinking hard about financing a motorcycle (IMO) B) checking to see whether Kawasaki is running any financing promotions because the interest rate on the loan is likely to be better than leaving that sum on your card. That said, I bought my 650 on my credit card and immediately paid it off, just to gain those sweet sweet travel reward points. Put me over the top on a third free ticket to Japan. If only that was possible these days  But Kawasaki was offering 4% or something like that (OAC) vs the something-teen% my VISA demands. E: But I’m not sure that actually answered what you wanted to know. Yeah, call them up and ask about an out the door cash price if you’re in financial position to do that. I’m not really sure what other advice to give. You can try to haggle but that’s not my strong suit. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 03:18
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I would just be using my CC to get travel points and immediately be paid off just like you did. I'm planning on using the bike for RTW travel whenever that's safe to do again. I was wondering about how haggling works at a motorcycle dealer since their margins seem to be smaller. I've heard of getting gear thrown in but I have no idea how that works either.
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Jun 3, 2020 03:47
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I’ve only bought one bike but it was new and I spent a long time shopping. Depends on the dealer but some of them really hate giving the OTD price without you somehow committing to the purchase first. It’s asinine but I walked out of one with my checkbook because I could not get the smooth-talking jackass to just tell me what number he would want me write on it. They wanted me to get into the “buying excitement” before springing added fees is my only guess. I went to a smaller dealer last week just to look at a 2020 ninja 650 and they were happy to talk bikes, prices, fees and even what they’d give me for my bike right there on the sales floor. I really liked the guys I was talking to and the numbers they shot out weren’t bad. I guess what I’m trying to say is that there are some seriously dumb dealers who do whatever they can to not get your money, try not to waste too much time with them. You can definitely haggle but not like you can with a car.
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Jun 3, 2020 05:25
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I've never bought a bike through a dealer, but my friend tried to do that through one of the local high volume bike superstores and the total amount of fees and bullshit they added on to the sales price was so high he walked away and bought private. I forget the exact amount, but it was so high I remember agreeing that it was worth paying too much for a fairly new but not that new bike because it came fee-free.
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Jun 3, 2020 07:32
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Rolo posted:I went to a smaller dealer last week just to look at a 2020 ninja 650 and they were happy to talk bikes, prices, fees and even what they’d give me for my bike right there on the sales floor. I really liked the guys I was talking to and the numbers they shot out weren’t bad. Yeah, the Kawa guys I was dealing with were super nice, were happy to talk price (though the price was listed on the site as it was a NOS bike from 2018 in late 2019), and it probably didn't hurt that it was like a two hour drive in the middle of nowhere at the end of a riding season so they were probably looking to get rid of it and didn't give me any hassle. I'm sure they tried to upsell me a warranty or something like that but I don't remember them being particularly pushy. Probably just happy to get their floor space back. I was dead set on the colour scheme and they were the only dealership in Ontario that seemed to have one, so it worked out well for me. I didn't even think to haggle.
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Jun 3, 2020 14:16
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Most of my haggling was to get fees knocked off. I didn’t think to try and get gear or maintenance thrown in. I ended up getting my 2019 R3 ABS (msrp 5299) for 5140 all fees and sales tax included. I maybe could have done better but I feel ok about it. The dealer that wouldn’t give me straight numbers guessed the fees would add up to about 2000 on top of their non-negotiable sale price of about a grand under msrp. I figured they mostly haggle with monthly payments so they could just move 10-20 bucks and term lengths around to make the sale seem less gross.
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Jun 3, 2020 14:37
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It's only $5/mo *slides glasses down to examine age of rider* for the rest of your life! Unless you're buying that literbike in which case we'll just go ahead and insist you pay it off in full right now, thanks.
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Jun 3, 2020 14:40
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Thanks for the replies. I just sent emails to four dealers within 3hrs of me, unfortunately the closest is 45mins away. I'll call around if I don't hear back tomorrow. Hopefully I can at least test ride one somewhere. They just came out this year so there aren't used ones and I haven't seen demo bikes on the local dealer sites. My second choice is a Himalayan but it's over 100lbs heavier, has a weird tire size (21/17), and less support around the world.
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Jun 4, 2020 01:45
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21/17 are very cool and good tire sizes for a road going adv. But the Himalayan is a very not cool and not good motorcycle.
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Jun 4, 2020 02:11
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21/18 pairing has a lot more tire choices and easier to find. The Himalayan seems like it's been a good for a lot of people. I think they're cool but I'd also be happy on a Honda Wave 125 if we got them in the US. 
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Jun 4, 2020 02:32
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Was looking at picking up a Versys 300 ABS from a dealer about three hours away. Had all the paperwork sorted, insurance purchased, planned out the trip with a friend, etc... Decide to go over the dealer photos again just to be paranoid. Sure enough, realize the model they've got is missing the ABS stickers and doesn't have little chrome ABS plates. I call the dealer, ask for the sales guy to confirm which model they've got. Dude assures me, no, for real, its the ABS model. I ask them to take a physical second look... ...10 minutes later he calls back sounding pissed. Sure enough, its the non-ABS version. But do I still want it? 
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Jun 4, 2020 18:40
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I bought my first bike without ABS. They didn’t have an ABS model in stock, so I said gently caress it!! Fast forward 110 miles and I crashed after I locked up my rear wheel which in turn started wiping side to side. That’s my first bike ABS anecdote for your consideration.
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Jun 4, 2020 19:06
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Yeah, sorry, the dealer was trying to get me to buy the non-ABS version. I'm not buying new without.
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Jun 4, 2020 20:09
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Toe Rag posted:I bought my first bike without ABS. They didn’t have an ABS model in stock, so I said gently caress it!! Fast forward 110 miles and I crashed after I locked up my rear wheel which in turn started wiping side to side. That’s my first bike ABS anecdote for your consideration. I've had this happen once off road and twice on road and I saved it each time and am absolutely unsure how. Just kept the rear locked I guess and stayed loose. Never buying a road bike again without abs and traction aids by choice. Next bike is gonna be wall to wall rider aids. tokenbrownguy posted:Was looking at picking up a Versys 300 ABS from a dealer about three hours away. Had all the paperwork sorted, insurance purchased, planned out the trip with a friend, etc... Decide to go over the dealer photos again just to be paranoid. Sure enough, realize the model they've got is missing the ABS stickers and doesn't have little chrome ABS plates. That's infuriating Im sorry. Name and shame. Coydog fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jun 4, 2020 |
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Jun 4, 2020 20:14
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I got replies from 2 dealers, one quote me a ABS model since that's what they have left. It ended up being $5,828 with a $590 dealer destination assembly and prep fee, $150 doc fee, $513.87 sales tax, title and plates $175.75. This was with the $500 factory discount applied. The second place gave me a quote on the dirt bike model even though I put the request through the dual sports page and stated the model. that was $5,501 after fees but no mention of the $500 factory discount. I sent an email back that I was looking for the non ABS dual sport. I'll start calling around tomorrow to see what people have in stock or when the next shipments are. I'm hoping I can get one for closer to $5000. I don't really want to pay for ABS when I don't need it. I'd rather not have an extra thing on the bike to possibly break or add complication either.
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Jun 5, 2020 07:13
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Looking at getting a new commuter and need some input re KTM Super Dukes. I already have a fully loaded 2017 S1000R sport but I'm eyeing a new 2019 KTM 1290SD that the dealer is almost giving away in the current climate. I would put around 20,000k/pa on the bike a year so I'm curious about reliability and running costs. Undecided if I will keep the S1000R, I might swap it our for a 2020 S1000RR or an RSV4 to use on the weekends.
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Jun 5, 2020 07:32
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Let Slavvy tell you about KTM and reliability and if it is a good idea for a high mileage commuter.
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Jun 5, 2020 12:09
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One the one hand, Rightarm has a SAR that he loves and doesn't seem to to give him any grief (but his brother's has been an issue?) On the other hand, a fellow student at college this two days ago was helping repair his friend's <10kkm 690 and the engine was basically toast. On another thread a klx250 dude on advrider was saying he had 3 new engines in under 30kkm on a KTM. If you want a reliable commuter I don't think you want a KTM, but if you are fine with BMW repair costs then maybe I'm wrong
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Jun 5, 2020 12:48
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Personally I'd avoid KTM for a commuter, given the horror stories seen in this forum for KTM bikes.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:06
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Shelvocke posted:If you want a reliable commuter I don't think you want a KTM, but if you are fine with BMW repair costs then maybe I'm wrong The BMW has been great, 43,000k so far and it's just been regular services and nothing else. It appears my concerns about KTM may be correct which is disappointing.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:18
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Coydog posted:I've had this happen once off road and twice on road and I saved it each time and am absolutely unsure how. Just kept the rear locked I guess and stayed loose. I know that like 1/2 my posts are "hello my brother, have you heard of our lord and savior riding in the dirt?" but honestly this is one of the things that I think it's good at helping with. You get used to things like the rear skidding around and losing traction and you get to crash when (ideally, and if you go out and buy a TTR125/225/XR100/etc like you should) the consequences aren't too high. That said, definitely get ABS. KillaZilla posted:The BMW has been great, 43,000k so far and it's just been regular services and nothing else. It appears my concerns about KTM may be correct which is disappointing. I have a buddy who commutes on a 950 and it's fine. But if you're commuting and cost is a concern then it sure seems like there are a lot of other better bikes. Why not get like an SV650 for example?
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Jun 5, 2020 13:23
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Sv650 - the Miata of bikes.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:32
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I commute on a 2006 SV 650 S in the summer and it was one of the best motorized decisions I ever took to trade my ktm 640 lc4 for it. Total purchase price was something like 3000 euro (minus 1500 that I still got for the leaky ktm) and the bike has 6000 km on the clock. I love it.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:37
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builds character posted:I have a buddy who commutes on a 950 and it's fine. But if you're commuting and cost is a concern then it sure seems like there are a lot of other better bikes. Why not get like an SV650 for example? Cost isn't an issue, it's reliability that I am more interested in. The 1290 duke or Tuono have always been bikes I considered owning if I was to get rid of the BMW.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:47
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builds character posted:"hello my brother, have you heard of our lord and savior riding in the dirt?" This is the same principle I apply to teaching skiing; sure you can be a hot shot skier if you just lap pistes all day, but the best skiers train in all disciplines - park, freeride and powder, racing, moguls etc etc because the skills are transferable. So it is on bikes, even if you ride on the road your whole life you will only get better if you ride some dirt, do a couple of trackdays and maybe blast a scooter around an island in southeast Asia with a hangover... but I digress
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Jun 5, 2020 13:47
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KillaZilla posted:Looking at getting a new commuter and need some input re KTM Super Dukes. I commute 5 days a week here in nashville on my SAR and did also in portland when I wasn't pedal biking to work obviously, the LC8 is a different motor than the ones in the 690 smc, 390 duke, and the 790 and 890 dukes. I personally would not buy any vehicle with a newly designed engine being as the first model year folks are typically the beta testers. that being said, the LC8 is an incredible, old design that has been refined fantastically. the issues few are well documented and the motor is very easy to work on. do your valve checks, change your oil and you'll be golden. I genuinely enjoy working on it, but euro / non american dealers are far better, so you'll be fine if you want them to service it. typically your valves won't need any adjustments until ~36000mi (I checked mine around 9000mi and then again around 17000mi according to my spreadsheet and they hadn't changed), but the first major service is typically done at 18000mi iirc. only issue I've had with my SAR (sameish motor) is the fuel pump filter getting plugged. iirc the SDR has an aluminum tank, so you shouldn't have any issues with that as those problems are confined to the plastic tanks that dealers sometimes do not fully clean per TSBs that the mothership puts out. I've put 21000mi on it in 2yr and it is a wonderful motor and a lovely bike. I expect many more miles of good times running costs you're looking at about $60 max for a full synthetic oil change. closer to $80 if you use motorex. service intervals for oil changes are going to be 9500mi. I typically do them around 8000mi, but I enjoy working on the bike and the oil looks fine and still shifts fine at that time. valve clearance check is done at the major services and really that depends on your dealer. I do my own work cause I enjoy it, so all I was out was the cost of some new sparkplugs ($60 for NGKs, you need 2 per cyl, so 4 total). other than that, typical cost of a chain + sprockets (~$250) every 20000mi or whenever depending on how you maintain it tl;dr: LC8 rules, you'll love it Shelvocke posted:One the one hand, Rightarm has a SAR that he loves and doesn't seem to to give him any grief (but his brother's has been an issue?) haha I mostly make that joke cause he hates it  but only real issue we've had is the rotors on his. fuel pump's screws also seemed like they were tightened by a gorillaKTM also sources their OEM rotors from brembo for the SAR/S (idk if SDR uses the same diameter rotors) but they've been incredibly hit and miss for folks bitching on advrider. lots of issues of warped OEM rotors that dealers will replaces a few times. it's obvious they have a bad batch that they are just attempting to replace through, but I never personally had issues with mine. if you do, bug your dealer and they'll take care of you if they're not dipshits. KTM dealers outside the US tend to be far better than the ones here in the states so I'd imagine he'd be fine
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Jun 5, 2020 14:21
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I know I hate on KTM, but they are not as unreliable as some of these horror stories. The 690 regularly is a high mileage bike. I've talked to people with over 100k on their engines. Is it a jumpy bike that wants to be let loose and run hard, this being miserable in traffic? Sure. Are oil changes a harrowing experience? Absolutely. But it's not a 20k mile engine lol The 1290SD is at the top of my list for a year from now, so I'm particularly interested in the topic. builds character posted:I know that like 1/2 my posts are "hello my brother, have you heard of our lord and savior riding in the dirt?" but honestly this is one of the things that I think it's good at helping with. You get used to things like the rear skidding around and losing traction and you get to crash when (ideally, and if you go out and buy a TTR125/225/XR100/etc like you should) the consequences aren't too high. This cannot be stated enough, especially for new riders. Not only is riding in the woods just the bestest thing, and not only is the varied terrain interesting, but you learn so much in a "safer" environment. In addition to this ideally you are on a low displacement lightweight dirt bike that is less intimidating than whatever streetbike you may have.
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Jun 5, 2020 15:16
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Coydog posted:I know I hate on KTM, but they are not as unreliable as some of these horror stories. The 690 regularly is a high mileage bike. I've talked to people with over 100k on their engines. you'll love it. oil changes are easy. screens are integrated with the two drain plugs that are on the same side of the bike as the filter and fill hole. I can't say enough good things about the LC8, it's such an incredible motor
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Jun 5, 2020 15:33
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right arm posted:you'll love it. oil changes are easy. screens are integrated with the two drain plugs that are on the same side of the bike as the filter and fill hole. I can't say enough good things about the LC8, it's such an incredible motor Yeah and I’ve owned bikes where the oil change is a single drain bolt and a filter, my LC8 wasn’t easy at all in comparison. Bet that most of the horror stories from the brand are due to just not holding up to neglect like other brands, though. That’s not really a slander against KTM so much as it is to motorcyclists in general, no matter how sour I am about things like my kickstand bracket snapping.
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Jun 5, 2020 15:42
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Steakandchips posted:Personally I'd avoid KTM for a commuter, given the horror stories seen in this forum for KTM bikes. I've seen someone doing food delivery on an RC125, which is... optimistic.
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Jun 5, 2020 16:07
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Coydog posted:This cannot be stated enough, especially for new riders. Not only is riding in the woods just the bestest thing, and not only is the varied terrain interesting, but you learn so much in a "safer" environment. Ironically I had a CR80 as a teenager which I think factored into my being way overconfident when I hopped onto a street bike. Everything is the MSF class was super easy and familiar. I was, obviously, outriding my ability. I’m not at all disagreeing with either of you. I wish I had kept riding dirt and got a street bike sooner 
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Jun 5, 2020 18:28
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Coydog posted:I know I hate on KTM, but they are not as unreliable as some of these horror stories. The 690 regularly is a high mileage bike. I've talked to people with over 100k on their engines. 690's that make it past 30-40kkm without life threatening issues are the exception, not the norm. How you take care of them or ride them seems to have no bearing on it. The smaller ones are even worse. Never worked on a new SD so can't comment there, but I can say this: if reliability is your main concern, nothing European should even be on the loving radar when bikes like the SV and vfr exist. The s1000r is a fine bike but even that has the world's worst timing chain tensioner and a service light that can't be reset without the dealer tool. If you want something nice or fast or fancy that's fine, you've got the money you do you, but don't bullshit pretending you care about reliability, you don't get to shop 180hp ultracomplex v-twins and whine about reliability.
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Jun 5, 2020 20:32
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Fair points and I agree with you. But also I have a powerful need for a vtwin with comically high hp. I was also looking at the ftr 1200, but that drifts more than wheelies and like keeping the shiny side up.
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Jun 5, 2020 20:47
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Coydog posted:Fair points and I agree with you. But also I have a powerful need for a vtwin with comically high hp. SD990s are getting cheap enough to be considered “disposable” if you feel like going that route.
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Jun 5, 2020 21:10
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Slavvy posted:if reliability is your main concern, nothing European should even be on the loving radar when bikes like the SV and vfr exist. The s1000r is a fine bike but even that has the world's worst timing chain tensioner and a service light that can't be reset without the dealer tool. My previous commute bikes were Yamaha & Honda, both good bikes but not very exciting. With most of my commute being highway and no longer wanting to keep 3 bikes running, I opted for something different that was still lots of fun on the weekends. I bought the BMW after finding a number of people running them as higher mileage commute bikes without issue, I agree the timing chain tensioner is awful. I guess I should clarify my position on reliability, I can commute via car if my bike is down for a day or three waiting on parts, I just don't want the bike to be down for weeks at a time every 6 months.
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Jun 6, 2020 00:39
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Coydog posted:Fair points and I agree with you. But also I have a powerful need for a vtwin with comically high hp. You've already dealt with the KTM maintenance experience, explore new horizons and try a Ducati
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Jun 6, 2020 01:13
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I think the BMW that fits into the profile would actually be the R 1250 RS. No idea about the reliability of shift cam but it doesn't look like a system that will brick your engine if something goes wrong. And if it keeps with the general idea of the large boxers, the drivetrain will propably outlive the rider. Does have a shaft drive, but also a classic USD front fork and not a tele lever like the GS. Also looks quite good in my opinion
Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 6, 2020 02:14
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whether a bike drifts or wheelies is just a matter of where you're putting your gooch
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Jun 7, 2020 15:28
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I ended up making a deal on a KLX 230 for $5300 and get to pick it up on Tuesday. I'm pretty excited to get the new bike and it's my first new vehicle purchase.
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Jun 8, 2020 02:51
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NinjaTech posted:I ended up making a deal on a KLX 230 for $5300 and get to pick it up on Tuesday. I'm pretty excited to get the new bike and it's my first new vehicle purchase. i hope that's an otd price, or the deal was like 6 blow jobs
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Jun 8, 2020 15:16
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