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Coydog posted:You see wasted space I see actual underseat storage. Hell yeah, I realise calling it wasted space gives it a negative connotation but it's all positive. You can carry poo poo sure, or you can modify and add things and nobody knows because they're hidden in the bulbous rear end. Plus they're easy to work on cause everything is spaced out. Plus the SRAD at least looks like it has some sort of cohesive appearance and styling which makes it infinitely better looking than 98% of modern bikes.
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Jun 3, 2020 19:54
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I'm v happy with my late-90s-built early-80s-retrobike (like, every time I see it, a part of my brain goes "there is the Best Looking Bike") but I really hope someone comes out with a late 80s early 90s fully faired retrobike, like , an SRAD or a CBR600F2 all with them pink and purple grafix (issue complicated slightly by Kawi pumping out the EX250 and 500 for literally decades, is it a retrobike if it barely changed in 20 years?)
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Jun 3, 2020 21:54
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You tell me how retro is a drz?
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Jun 3, 2020 21:57
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And there's the answer - it's "timeless" if I'm feeling generous, or "old as balls" if I'm not
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Jun 3, 2020 22:40
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Additionally:
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Jun 3, 2020 23:52
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Jun 4, 2020 00:25
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Jun 4, 2020 00:59
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Bits of my brain keep trying to pick out problems with this and are being angrily shouted down by the rest of it, and several other organs.
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Jun 4, 2020 01:03
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Bits of my brain keep trying to pick out problems with this and are being angrily shouted down by the rest of it, and several other organs. "Don't slip on the billiard balls" is all I can come up with
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Jun 4, 2020 01:10
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Those kits are gorgeous, but they're also hand-made and cost 2,550-2850 Euro.
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Jun 4, 2020 01:12
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Bits of my brain keep trying to pick out problems with this and are being angrily shouted down by the rest of it, and several other organs. Now you now what it feels like to be an OG bsa/Norton/triumph guy looking at modern cafe racers.
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Jun 4, 2020 02:12
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Yes please!
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Jun 4, 2020 03:26
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I really wish the endurance racer sportbike look would come back. The dual round headlight look is so amazing.
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Jun 4, 2020 15:04
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:That bike has lived a very hard life. I get it if it was your friends and there is a connection there, however. As Slavvy said were I looking to buy the bike I would have run away, but my friend who died was my wife's godbrother and one of my groomsmen, who died way too young (early 30s), so I'll probably fix it up just for sentimental purposes. I took a closer look at it yesterday and it even has the spike bolts for the windsceen, so it's going to take some work before it won't be so cringey. After taking off the seat to charge the battery I determined the bike was originally yellow, then was rattle canned black (not very well). Once I get it started and inspect it mechanically, if it seems decent I'll probably start grabbing used oem fairings off of ebay to get it back to the blue and white Suzuki look. High Protein posted:Won't mounting your license plate like that result in getting pulled over a ton? My plate is slightly illegal (angle not steep enough) but something like that which would probably result in traffic cameras not catching you seems to be asking for trouble. Sagebrush posted:Mounting it sideways is pretty ridiculous, but based on the number of wacky plate positions I've seen around, I don't think it really matters. It is at least more visible there than when it's crammed up underneath the fender like the stuntaz with flat tires and huge tank dents like to do. Yeah I feel like the plate mounting position means I should be in shorts and sandals while riding the bike, but I'll fix it once I get the bike up and running. I have my Daytona's plate tucked really far under the fender (no tolls!) and never get poo poo for it, but I feel like this is especially bad. I am a white male office worker who's not too far from 40 years old, so it's not like the cops harass me anyway. I've only been pulled over once on the Daytona (was doing over 100mph) and the CHP let me go with no ticket and a warning to keep it to 80mph. I think it helps that I'm usually fully geared except for pants. I rented a u-haul bike trailer, bought canyon dancers, and managed to get the bike towed home. I made sure to bring every tool with me but managed to forget my compressor, so I got to push the bike up a sloped driveway then up the ramp with a flat front tire, and I decided to do it at noon when it was in the 90s. That sucked, and I also hadn't realized how hard it'd be to maneuver the bike with a flat front. Then backing the back down the trailer I accidentally left the kickstand down and almost dropped the bike, luckily a kickstand to my shin saved it (and still hurts today). The battery successfully charged on the tender (wasn't even in save mode, just charging), but the cylinder just spins and spins (I guess I used too much force on it when I broke the key off). I went ahead and ordered a non-OEM ignition cylinder / gas cap / seat lock set, but the earliest arriving one I can find is in two weeks. I need to at least get the mileage so I can finish filling out the pink slip, so I'll try to hotwire it today. I took a quick look at it yesterday because the ignition cylinder pics on ebay seemed to have a ~4 to 6inch set of wires coming off the bike, but when I tried to trace the wires it looks like I'll need to lift up the tank to get to them. I guess since I have a new cylinder coming I could just cut the wires near the cylinder and wire them that way, but that just seems like a bad idea. Maybe I'm overthinking it. I tried searching for help on the gixxer forums but they ended up being pretty bad. Every post talking about hotwiring / ignition cylinder issues is just met with responses saying return the stolen bike, etc. I did grab a PDF of the service manual and have the wiring diagram. Now that I typed that all out, should I just cut the wires going to the cylinder connect them like this to get the bike to think the ignition is turned to on?  It sounds like one of those bad ideas, but I'm going to be replacing the cylinder anyway so I'm not sure what the issue would be.
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Jun 4, 2020 18:06
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1. You are being a pussy and/or a weirdo, just join the bloody wires together it's a Suzuki ffs it won't burst into flames like a triumph or whatever 2. If the bike's been poorly rattlecanned you have a good chance of salvaging the original fairings with some solvent and a lot of patience 3. If you were smart you would take all the fairings off right now and post pictures of the stripped bike for our delight and amusement and also so you know in advance what you're going to need to do
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Jun 4, 2020 19:29
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I would also suggest seeing if you can rescue the plastics. Maybe its plasti-dip and you can peel it off or something? The yellow SRADs are fantastic looking  
Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jun 4, 2020 |
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Jun 4, 2020 19:34
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Those look pretty cool, but the 1999 color looks to be pretty bumble bee, so I can see why someone painted it.Slavvy posted:1. You are being a pussy and/or a weirdo, just join the bloody wires together it's a Suzuki ffs it won't burst into flames like a triumph or whatever After I get it started and get new tires I'll start trying to clean it all up. I have a feeling the original paint will be bad, but we'll see. I went ahead and cut the wires going to the busted ignition cylinder, everything was pretty straightforward except two minor issues. The manual had one wire as green with a yellow tracer, and after matching everything else up the only left over wire was orange with a yellow tracer, but I figured that's close enough. I also had 7 wires rather than the 6 the manual showed, but two of them were solid red so I figured I'd just join them together. I had used bullet connectors and made it look not too bad, but on this bike everything is on with the cutoff switch off, it just wont' start the bike (and presumably send fuel/ignition). I grabbed a covered racing style switch from the auto parts store to really complete the methed out look for the bike.  Unfortunately it turns over but won't start, so I'm not sure where to go from there. It gives a "CHECK FI" warning and I don't hear any fuel pump sounds, so it seems like it's something fueling related. I figured I should check for fuel in the gas tank, but without the key I couldn't open it. I took out the 8 allen bolts that hold it on, but I still couldn't pry it open to check. It seems unlikely that my buddy parked the bike with exactly zero gas left in it before he died, but it's still something I need to figure out. It also occurred to me I don't know for sure the bike was running when he died. I should probably contact his roommate or someone to see if they have any idea.
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Jun 5, 2020 01:24
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Check the clutch and side stand wiring. Take the old ignition barrel apart and physically verify it has no hotwire protection. Check the fuses and fp relay, the pump should cycle the moment you set the kill to run. If you can't get a key, you have no choice but to destroy the fuel cap as it's designed to stay lodged in there regardless of the screws.
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Jun 5, 2020 01:41
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So... snapped a bolt on my brakes, and thought I'd take a run at cleaning the carbs while I'm waiting on BikeBandit to get their poo poo together. 1985 Honda CB700 "Nighthawk S", roughly 40,000 miles. To the best of my knowledge, carbs have never been opened or cleaned, but I've only had this bike for 4 years. I bought 4 carb rebuild kits (so gaskets, rings & floats), and have a copy of the factory manual. Forgot to order JIS screwdrivers. This is my first time doing this. -Do I need any other specialist tools or anything? Should I order JIS screwdrivers and wait for them to be shipped? -Anyone have a good video walkthrough on inline-4 carb rebuilding? This manual assumes some familiarity I don't have.
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Jun 5, 2020 02:08
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You'll definitely need the JIS screwdrivers, I wouldn't start without them. It is very straightforward if you do one carb at a time and avoid unracking them or loving with the balance. Only other tools you'll need are a pick for taking out tricky o-rings, and compressed air for cleaning all the little passages, plus some solvent of your choice. Some way of balancing them afterwards is handy too. There really is nothing more to it, if you can operate a screwdriver, read a manual and have some brains there is basically nothing else you could learn from a video. If you get stuck you're better off just asking here, there are lots of carbwar veterans ITT.
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Jun 5, 2020 03:25
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Slavvy posted:
Two out of three, anyway. Unracking them's that big of a pain, then? Right, skipping that. Any reason I shouldn't use canned air? I don't have a compressor. Edit: all right, ordering the right screwdrivers. Vessel is still the go-to, yeah?
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Jun 5, 2020 04:51
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Unracking is really not so bad but it means contending with the little retainer springs for the balance screws. It is a hellish task most of the time. The little crossover piping is usually brittle and glued in place by rock hard o-rings that will never seal again; the o-rings are sometimes funny sizes. Vessel seems to be the best yeah, I use the type with an impact-twist handle but the business end is the important bit. Pro tip: give the screws a rap with a
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Jun 5, 2020 05:32
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All right, cool. Carb cleaning ... next weekend, after new screwdrivers get here. Thanks much for the help.
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Jun 5, 2020 05:36
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TheNothingNew posted:while I'm waiting on BikeBandit to get their poo poo together. Good luck with that, even without Covid and riots going on they still wait a week to ship anything. I like to think they have one 70 year old guy in the warehouse who fills orders and gently caress you if you think he's gonna rush out parts because in his day it took 6-8 weeks.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:36
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Slavvy posted:If you get stuck you're better off just asking here, there are lots of carbwar veterans ITT. Reporting for duty  Rule 1: Never unrack the carbs unless you have a very specific reason to do so
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Jun 5, 2020 14:23
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Reporting for duty 2: The specific reason to unrack carbs is if the bike "feels sluggish" or is "hard to cold start". This is so you can swap the components with all the other carbs more easily. Make sure to evenly randomize which parts are switched to which other carbs. It averages out the power delivery for each carb, like when it was new. This is called "Balancing the Carbs" and should be done when valves are adjusted. Edit: don't do this. Coydog fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Jun 5, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 15:53
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Has anyone had any experience re-covering a bike seat? Is it a tremendous pain in the rear end that I should just hand off to someone else to do? My N650 seat is super slippery and I'm toying with the idea of buying a luismoto re-cover and the gel insert to throw on instead but somehow I imagine this is going to be much more fiddly than working on bike mechanics. I probably won't bother until I find a reasonably priced parted out OEM seat on eBay.
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Jun 5, 2020 16:38
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It's not a big deal at all. Actually, if you get a plug-in staple gun it's a lot of fun. Just be methodical and make sure to pull things tight and it's easy.
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Jun 5, 2020 16:43
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Martytoof posted:Has anyone had any experience re-covering a bike seat? Is it a tremendous pain in the rear end that I should just hand off to someone else to do? it's easy. I'd recommend getting a staple puller with the gun you buy cause it's easier to fix your gently caress ups, but a flat head screwdriver will work fine as well
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Jun 5, 2020 17:01
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Hmm interesting. I'm definitely interested in doing the thing now, but will probably still wait until I can find an OEM swap-in just so I can have a seat in case I royally bone it up. Thanks for humoring me.
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Jun 5, 2020 17:53
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Gorson posted:Good luck with that, even without Covid and riots going on they still wait a week to ship anything. I like to think they have one 70 year old guy in the warehouse who fills orders and gently caress you if you think he's gonna rush out parts because in his day it took 6-8 weeks. Is there anyone this is not true for? I had the same experience with PartZilla, even for “in stock” items. Now I just use my dealer parts counter because they can use the money and will still get things as fast or faster.
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Jun 5, 2020 19:27
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Ulf posted:Is there anyone this is not true for? I had the same experience with PartZilla, even for “in stock” items. Now I just use my dealer parts counter because they can use the money and will still get things as fast or faster. A couple weeks ago I ordered a set of tires and a few extras from fortnine.ca and they shipped reasonably quickly.
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Jun 5, 2020 19:43
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Coydog posted:2: The specific reason to unrack carbs is if the bike "feels sluggish" or is "hard to cold start". This is so you can swap the components with all the other carbs more easily. Make sure to evenly randomize which parts are switched to which other carbs. It averages out the power delivery for each carb, like when it was new.  Martytoof posted:Has anyone had any experience re-covering a bike seat? Is it a tremendous pain in the rear end that I should just hand off to someone else to do? I don't know but where did your AV come from?
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Jun 5, 2020 20:23
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"In stock" is in stock somewhere in their delivery chain, lots of poo poo gotta be shipped from a sub supplier or several with an order of multiple items, just to be packed in one box at their warehouse and then shipped to you. It's that or scale up insanely to have absolutely everything in house for same day/next day which needs a lot of order volume and employee exploitment to be profitable.
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Jun 5, 2020 20:29
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OK I bought some of that seat gel from AliExpress and I’ll try to DIY on my own seat after watching a few YouTubes. poo poo is like $200 on eBay but $20 on AliExpress v v — was surprised there were no Chinese sellers on the ‘Bay. This won’t help with any actual slipperiness, but the stock seat is kind of hard anyway so I’ll replace that and if I still have a bug up my butt to change the seat cover in a few months I’ll buy the luimoto cover I’ve been eyeing. Slavvy posted:I don't know but where did your AV come from? I needed to replace my Disney furry cop movie avatar so my ACAB posts wouldn’t come across quite so tone deaf. I just googled “vaporwave bike” and stole the first thing that caught my eye. Here’s the original. I roughly translate it as wet road blues but my japanese is v. bad.  I think it’s courtesy of this dude https://twitter.com/MrValenberg some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jun 5, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 22:01
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That self-sealing vinyl tape appears to be magic. When I got the hose off the bike I saw that it was not a pinhole leak and was a 1" split down the center. I made sure to stretch the tape tight and cover more than just the split, and I just took it around the neighborhood for 10 mins (but a lot of revs) and it didn't leak at all. I may have even successfully filled the cooling system with no air bubbles, I did make sure to run it with the radiator cap off and add distilled water as it got hotter and burped, but I thought I'd need to use the bleeder screw or some other method too and that doesn't seem to be the case. Now to wait and see how long my Bike Bandit order takes. They sent me an email saying the plastic rivets for the fairings were back ordered, I sent them an email back saying please don't hold my hose for those, and of course it's been two days now with no response. The hose was supposed to take a week or two anyway so it's not like it should have shipped by this point. 
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Jun 5, 2020 23:35
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My Ninja 250 was 50% self-sealing tape, by weight when I bought it. Including a particularly large section of what was once rear brake line cladding. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 23:47
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Coydog posted:2: The specific reason to unrack carbs is if the bike "feels sluggish" or is "hard to cold start". This is so you can swap the components with all the other carbs more easily. Make sure to evenly randomize which parts are switched to which other carbs. It averages out the power delivery for each carb, like when it was new. I mean, beats my usual reasons for doing dumb things, like "might as well while I've got it half apart" and "they said it was hard, but how hard can it be, really?" Martytoof posted:Has anyone had any experience re-covering a bike seat? Is it a tremendous pain in the rear end that I should just hand off to someone else to do? Not yet, but it's on the list. I spoke with a guy who does re-covers professionally. Apparently 4-way stretch vinyl is what you want if you're going fully from scratch. Otherwise what Coydog said.
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Jun 6, 2020 03:37
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My dad just bought an Enfield Himalayan, who was it here who had endless trouble with his?
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Jun 6, 2020 12:29
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High Protein posted:My dad just bought an Enfield Himalayan, who was it here who had endless trouble with his? Tim Raines IRL but different name now.
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Jun 6, 2020 14:47
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