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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Martytoof posted:

No complaints on my Ninja 650. I put an aftermarket double bubble on there but more for the darker aesthetics than for need of actual wind protection. I won’t say it hasn’t helped a little, but the stock windscreen seemed fine IMO.

I ran the double-bubble at medium height for a while before moving it back down to “sporty” mode. The more vertical you put the windscreen the goofier it looks on a Ninja, and the protection wasn’t significantly better.



E: Assuming the tire doesn’t catastrophically shred, what is the sensation of developing a flat tire on your ride? What do you feel/how does it present?

I've had 3 rear punctures while riding. One of them went from 38psi to zero in like three seconds, I was on my zx10 and the only reason I didn't crash was that I was already slowing down and going in a straight line.

The other two did the normal thing: the rear got more and more wobbly feeling until it became impossible to do even slow turns without wobbling and wallowing badly.

Never had a front puncture that was noticable while moving, only ones that were flat when I came back to the carpark.

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Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe

tokenbrownguy posted:

How good are the fairings on street bikes like Ninja's, CBRs, etc. at interstate speeds?
Not a "sport" bike despite what my insurance says, but my half-faired Bandit and full-faired GSXF have both been great on the freeway. Not a full tuck so not as aggressive as a full on sporty.

I added a deflector to pop when doing more than 30 mins and it works a charm to cut some of the buffering. No complaints.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Slavvy posted:

I've had 3 rear punctures while riding. One of them went from 38psi to zero in like three seconds, I was on my zx10 and the only reason I didn't crash was that I was already slowing down and going in a straight line.

The other two did the normal thing: the rear got more and more wobbly feeling until it became impossible to do even slow turns without wobbling and wallowing badly.

Never had a front puncture that was noticable while moving, only ones that were flat when I came back to the carpark.

It would be incredible if the big tire manufacturers got on the self healing polymer thing and found a way to insert a layer of one of those in the tread so that if you get a nail through your tire, you just pull it out, wait an hour or whatever, air it up and you're good as new.

Ola
Jul 19, 2004

Martytoof posted:


E: Assuming the tire doesn’t catastrophically shred, what is the sensation of developing a flat tire on your ride? What do you feel/how does it present?

You start blaming the frame and the forks, it feels like something's unscrewed itself. The bike handles weirdly. If you have a real flat you notice this very soon, you can get these weird ideas about the frame being broken from just normal low pressure.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

The fairings on my succession of CBRs have all been great, you don't really notice much wind until you're going pretty quick. The old 1999 bike had the biggest fairing but also the most relaxed riding position so probably evens out.

I did notice my neck getting tired on my long trip in northern Italy last year, but that is constant drag rather than any buffeting. Also I chased some ridiculous BMW car along the autostrada for a bit until I ran out of balls, it got extremely windy and by brain couldn't keep up with how fast the scenery was coming past so I slowed down.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002

Jonny 290 posted:

Really if i ever swap the stock one i kinda just want a double bubble, they seem good

I'm 6', had the Zero Gravity double bubble on my Gen2, it was turbulent as gently caress over 60 if you didn't tuck in behind it

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Ulf posted:

Don't leave us in suspense, how well is it running?

Seems to be running well! I gave it just a bit of throttle in the driveway, but the Yoshimura exhaust is LOUD at anything above an idle and I didn't want to piss off my neighbors. I should probably look into whether or not there are some silencers/baffles that come with these exhausts but one of the POs removed. It's too bad too, I was just thinking it wasn't annoyingly loud when I had it just idling, but give it a few thousand RPM and that changes.

https://i.imgur.com/Uy0IWHr.mp4

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
The SV has started acting strange. As soon as it is in 5th or 6th gear, it feels like the I'm lugging the engine no matter what rpm I'm at? Different exhaust note, shaking in sync with the cylinders firing sort of. At least I think it is connected to 5th/6th, I've been trying to gently caress around with riding in 4th where I wouldn't usually and stuff.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Carbed SV or FI SV?

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
2003 FI.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




The SV ECU applies different timing on a per-gear basis. Does the bike have an ignition advancer or something on it?

That’s the one thing I can think of that would affect ONLY 5th and 6th gear

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

The SV ECU applies different timing on a per-gear basis. Does the bike have an ignition advancer or something on it?

That’s the one thing I can think of that would affect ONLY 5th and 6th gear

I wasn't aware of this. Is there a way to spoof it by shorting the switch so it's always in first or whatever? Now I'm wondering how this works on my mate's cagiva raptor, or a LAMS restricted Gladius.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Yep, there is a mod called the TRE mod (Timing Retard Eliminator, admins please have mercy :ohdear: ) that fakes the ecu into using 6th gear timing in every gear.

The ecu pulls timing especially in the first two gears as an anti-wheelie measure and to make them smoother and not as snatchy. 5th and 6th gear use the most advanced timing the bike has available

The TRE mod is not as simple as a jumper wire between two pins, it needs some resistors and other things to make the ECU happy, but it is for sure well within the reach of your average garage tinkerer.

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jun 12, 2020

kloa
Feb 14, 2007


I don’t venture into AI at all, so maybe they have a thread on this already.

Has anyone powder coated their wheels - either from a kit or a used oven off Craigslist? Mine are kinda chipped and my bike doesn’t have much color to it imo. I like the neon yellow MT-10 styling, since my bike is silver, so it got me thinking about doing it.

There’s a shop here that does 4 car wheels for $350 every so often, but they refuse to do my moto wheels for anything less than full price :psyduck:

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe
Had it done to my DRZ when I built sumo wheels for it. Find a local hobbyist maybe? The guy I found charged me like $30-40 per wheel, though I may be remembering wrong (rims plus hubs, assembled after).

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
Find another shop that isn't a dick.

kloa
Feb 14, 2007


Yeah fair points on both.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009

Nidhg00670000 posted:

The SV has started acting strange. As soon as it is in 5th or 6th gear, it feels like the I'm lugging the engine no matter what rpm I'm at? Different exhaust note, shaking in sync with the cylinders firing sort of. At least I think it is connected to 5th/6th, I've been trying to gently caress around with riding in 4th where I wouldn't usually and stuff.

FWIW my SV was doing weird poo poo extremely similar to this plus a hard initial bog rolling on and it turned out to be a dying RR (plus a probably marginal battery & maybe some corroded connectors) that resulted in low voltage at one of the coils and lovely spark.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Yep, there is a mod called the TRE mod (Timing Retard Eliminator, admins please have mercy :ohdear: )

I think that usage of retard is probably fine.

I mean an Airbus literally yells at you RETARD RETARD just as you're about to touch down so

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
Different vocal stress, different word!

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

Sagebrush posted:

I think that usage of retard is probably fine.

I mean an Airbus literally yells at you RETARD RETARD just as you're about to touch down so

wow you think

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Sagebrush posted:

I mean a DRZ literally yells at you RETARD RETARD just as you're about to touch the mailbox

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Changing my 2020 DR650 oil for the first time, and I have the owner's manual, but just for kicks I checked the internet and some folks are intentionally under filling the bike. Is that a thing??

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

it's a thing among people on the internet who think they are smarter than every suzuki engineer, perhaps even every motor vehicle engineer, in history put together

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Yeah gently caress that, the capacity is literally carved into the bike. Changed!

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

mods :pedophiles:

TheNothingNew
Nov 10, 2008

Sagebrush posted:

it's a thing among people on the internet who think they are smarter than every suzuki engineer, perhaps even every motor vehicle engineer, in history put together

Detonating a multi-thousand-dollar engine to save $5 on a quart of oil. Brilliant!

----------------

Okay! Carb cleaning done and the bike works!
Odd one. Someone had clearly cleaned it out before me, no way are the insides of a 35-year-old bike that clean by themselves. Idle jets seemed okay but couple of the mains were partially clogged, near as I could tell. Sprayed everything out with B12 and scrubbed what I could.

Two days of pleading and swearing but it's back together and running. Couldn't do a full load test because no front brakes still (two separate "we're doing what we can!" emails from BikeBandit, but no promises and no parts, sigh), but went up and down the alley and seemed good.

Idle is lower and seems steadier. Engine RPM drops faster when I let off the gas, I think? Might be me just paying more attention than usual.
Engine sounds generally quieter but also burblier at partial throttle? Video attached, burbliness at the end. Enjoy my sideways video, sorry.

Also passed the "spray brake fluid at the intake" test, so hurray. Here's hoping to never have to do that again.

Could someone give me a sanity check on the sound the engine makes? I don't think it's an issue but would like a second opinion. If it makes a difference, there's probably no baffling left in the exhaust anymore; I was going to replace it but it's a sealed unit, hooray.

https://youtu.be/lA-3r79nRDk

Oh, and thank you Slavvy for being insistent on getting proper screwdrivers. 100% would have stripped some of those bastards out without them.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I'm waiting on Bike Bandit too, I don't know what is up with them but since the part is a $16 hose I just ordered from someone else who claimed to have it in stock and shipping on Monday, I'll believe it when I see it though.

The self-fusing vinyl tape held out my Daytona for a number of freeway rides, then it made it up the local canyons and back before started to spit out coolant once again right as I got to my friend's house. My other friend blames me practicing clutch ups when we got stuck behind slow cars at the very end, but if the fix can't handle that it's not really a fix. I also still am just absolutely horrible at clutch ups in 2nd gear, I don't know what my issue is but it's not working for me. I also very rarely practice them, and when I do it's for a few minutes at a time, so that may be part of it.

In thrashed gixxer news I determined the MotoCentric front and rear stands I have for my Daytona (only $15 each) will not work for the gixxer. Is there a stand or something out there that will work for both Triumphs and Suzukis, or am I stuck with multiple sets of stands? It's more a space thing in my garage than anything else. I need to get the gixxer's front wheel off to fix the valve stem, but I can't get it off without raising the bike somehow. Maybe my ladder, some ratcheting straps, and some friends? Are those side/center stands any good? They're really pricey, but I wonder if that would make working on both bikes easier.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TheNothingNew posted:

Detonating a multi-thousand-dollar engine to save $5 on a quart of oil. Brilliant!

----------------

Okay! Carb cleaning done and the bike works!
Odd one. Someone had clearly cleaned it out before me, no way are the insides of a 35-year-old bike that clean by themselves. Idle jets seemed okay but couple of the mains were partially clogged, near as I could tell. Sprayed everything out with B12 and scrubbed what I could.

Two days of pleading and swearing but it's back together and running. Couldn't do a full load test because no front brakes still (two separate "we're doing what we can!" emails from BikeBandit, but no promises and no parts, sigh), but went up and down the alley and seemed good.

Idle is lower and seems steadier. Engine RPM drops faster when I let off the gas, I think? Might be me just paying more attention than usual.
Engine sounds generally quieter but also burblier at partial throttle? Video attached, burbliness at the end. Enjoy my sideways video, sorry.

Also passed the "spray brake fluid at the intake" test, so hurray. Here's hoping to never have to do that again.

Could someone give me a sanity check on the sound the engine makes? I don't think it's an issue but would like a second opinion. If it makes a difference, there's probably no baffling left in the exhaust anymore; I was going to replace it but it's a sealed unit, hooray.

https://youtu.be/lA-3r79nRDk

Oh, and thank you Slavvy for being insistent on getting proper screwdrivers. 100% would have stripped some of those bastards out without them.

Everything you've said + the video implies pilot screws set like 1/4-1/2 turns too rich. Quite likely if stuff was clogged before and they'd been turned out to compensate. It also sounds like they could do with a balance. It also sounds like the bike has a flappy cam- or primary-chain but it's a Honda so the wheels will fall off from atomic decay before that becomes more than just a noise. Or it might just be a crap recording device on your end with a crap playback device on mine, who knows.

MomJeans420 posted:

I'm waiting on Bike Bandit too, I don't know what is up with them but since the part is a $16 hose I just ordered from someone else who claimed to have it in stock and shipping on Monday, I'll believe it when I see it though.

The self-fusing vinyl tape held out my Daytona for a number of freeway rides, then it made it up the local canyons and back before started to spit out coolant once again right as I got to my friend's house. My other friend blames me practicing clutch ups when we got stuck behind slow cars at the very end, but if the fix can't handle that it's not really a fix. I also still am just absolutely horrible at clutch ups in 2nd gear, I don't know what my issue is but it's not working for me. I also very rarely practice them, and when I do it's for a few minutes at a time, so that may be part of it.

In thrashed gixxer news I determined the MotoCentric front and rear stands I have for my Daytona (only $15 each) will not work for the gixxer. Is there a stand or something out there that will work for both Triumphs and Suzukis, or am I stuck with multiple sets of stands? It's more a space thing in my garage than anything else. I need to get the gixxer's front wheel off to fix the valve stem, but I can't get it off without raising the bike somehow. Maybe my ladder, some ratcheting straps, and some friends? Are those side/center stands any good? They're really pricey, but I wonder if that would make working on both bikes easier.

Do these bikes have bobbins or what? I can't picture a stand that would work on a d675 but not on a Gixxer.

TheNothingNew
Nov 10, 2008

Slavvy posted:

Everything you've said + the video implies pilot screws set like 1/4-1/2 turns too rich. Quite likely if stuff was clogged before and they'd been turned out to compensate. It also sounds like they could do with a balance. It also sounds like the bike has a flappy cam- or primary-chain but it's a Honda so the wheels will fall off from atomic decay before that becomes more than just a noise. Or it might just be a crap recording device on your end with a crap playback device on mine, who knows.

Nah, there's definitely a noise there. Letting it slide, though; if it's the cam, internet says it's an automatic cam chain timer that apparently requires taking the top end off to replace and we're hitting the limit on how much work I want to put into a bike that's worth approximately scrap.

I'll fiddle with the pilot screws next time I have it out. Thanks for your help!

MomJeans420 posted:

In thrashed gixxer news I determined the MotoCentric front and rear stands I have for my Daytona (only $15 each) will not work for the gixxer. Is there a stand or something out there that will work for both Triumphs and Suzukis, or am I stuck with multiple sets of stands? It's more a space thing in my garage than anything else. I need to get the gixxer's front wheel off to fix the valve stem, but I can't get it off without raising the bike somehow. Maybe my ladder, some ratcheting straps, and some friends? Are those side/center stands any good? They're really pricey, but I wonder if that would make working on both bikes easier.

A Pitbull stand, maybe? They're kinda bullshit expensive but supposed to work with different bikes depending on switching out the pin that sits in the triple tree.
I can't super recommend them though; worked great on my old Ninja 250 but doesn't actually get high enough to raise the Nighthawk front wheel off the ground. It's also not on their compatibility list though, so not completely on them.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

MomJeans420 posted:

I'm waiting on Bike Bandit too,
Some part of their supply/shipping system (which is extremely long and multi segmented already) is really haywire with the pandemic. We order a lot from them and we've been waiting for some things for over a month now. They also don't answer their phones or emails. We emailed asking to cancel a couple orders and then, after no reply, they shipped within a few days. So maybe you should try that.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I emailed them asking to ship the important part of my order and ignore the rest and got no reply, so that sounds right. I was about to email them to just cancel my whole order if my other order comes through, but it sounds like I should have done that a week ago to get them to actually ship the part out.

I decided to take a closer look at my stands, I think I can make them work well enough, or at least the rear. It probably doesn't help that I'm doing this in the valley of the V shaped part of my driveway, but I never have an issue with the Triumph on stands here. The bobbins on the gsxr look pretty small compared to the ones on my Triumph, but also the ridiculous license plate holder on the rear left side gets in the way of the stand. I got it working by using the swingarm, but I'm not sure if it's kosher to use the part on the right side that I used to support the bike. It also slid around a lot so I'm thinking it's not a great location, but I need to get the rear axle nut off to remove the license plate holder.





The problem with the front is the stands are just a little bit too narrow to rest only on the bottom of the forks and not hit the brake rotors, I think with enough playing around I may be able to get it close enough, but I probably need to move it to the level part of my garage. I should probably just bite the bullet and get a pitbull hybrid front stand which lets me lift from the triple tree or the forks, as I'm planning on doing the fork oil and seals once I the tires and brakes sorted on this thing.



right arm
Oct 30, 2011

I think you may have more problems than just your stands :melter:

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002
Who drilled out the rivets in that Yoshi can and didn't bother to replace them after they repacked it (if they even did that)? It looks like the hanger strap is the only thing holding it together.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

I can't decide if the 4 different license plate bolts, the cotter pin, or the two rivets shoved in a single hole (heh) while all the others are missing is my favorite part :D

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




The bike appears to have nice new aftermarket rotors though so, that’s a win!

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
So are motorcycle rims just not a thing? I was thinking about getting a second set of tires, but apparently no one sells rims. Why?

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
Depends on the bike I think, some models have stacks of rims floating around on ebay. Especially 90s street/sport models because they're the most likely to get wrecked and parted out.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

SEKCobra posted:

So are motorcycle rims just not a thing? I was thinking about getting a second set of tires, but apparently no one sells rims. Why?

Straight rims are the lifeblood of bike-parter-outers and will always fetch a high price on the used market. If your bike is newish you might just want to go straight to OEM new ($$) or get someone to lace up some custom spoked rims ($$$$). You can also go to something like Bikebandit, look up your bike, and see if there are other more common bikes that use the same rim. Failing that, hit the bike-specific forums and see if others have done the work of adapting something else.

Rears are usually cheap, fronts are harder to find for obvious reasons.

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MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Jazzzzz posted:

Who drilled out the rivets in that Yoshi can and didn't bother to replace them after they repacked it (if they even did that)? It looks like the hanger strap is the only thing holding it together.

right arm posted:

I can't decide if the 4 different license plate bolts, the cotter pin, or the two rivets shoved in a single hole (heh) while all the others are missing is my favorite part :D

The only thing I've looked at that doesn't need some kind of attention is the right ram air duct, everything else at least needs black paint removed. Even the front wheel needs work where the PO gooped a shitload of silicone on the valve stem area to try to stop the leak. Oh and the windshield bolts are those horrible spiked ones so I have to replace those ASAP. My immediate goal is get the front tire to hold air so I can ride it down the street and see how everything else feels. If it feels like it rides straight, and that's a big if, it's getting new tires, brake lines, and fork oil + seals, then we'll look at all the cosmetic issues.

It's almost guaranteed to be a bit of a waste of money compared to just buying a better example, but this way my friends and I have a project. Unlike my other bike I'm going to track all the expenses for this in a google docs spreadsheet, so we'll see how much a free bike costs in the end. It looks like I'm ordering some pit bull stands so it's already starting to add up, but those will be nice to have for any bike we're working on.

I think for now I'll store the license plate under the rear seat, that may actually be less likely to get me pulled over than the current situation. I'm not sure how someone even though that was an option.

*edit*
I don't have much to go off, but the exhaust seems extremely loud even for an aftermarket one. I'm expecting some fuckery (as evidenced by the rivet situation), so I'll end up shipping it to yoshimura for a repack, or trading it for a stock exhaust, whatever is cheaper

MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jun 15, 2020

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