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Leperflesh posted:Another approach is a sacrificial 2" thick piece of pink high-density insulation foam from your local big-box home improvement center. This is useful for several different operations where you want something to lay flat, you can clamp it if needed, and you want to slice or puncture or drill or otherwise mutilate your work piece and have something backing it up that you can go into, but it's wasting a whole bunch of/a really thick piece of wood, and also doesn't provide too much resistance. Plus if you don't happen to need to clamp, you can do it on the floor, which can be really nice when you need to get up above your workpiece or crawl across it. This can also help you deal with an uneven work surface, like a bumpy driveway or even your lawn. I do this, yeah, though I'm not sure how well it'd fair with a jigsaw. They have quite a lot of travel.
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Jun 15, 2020 22:25
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Reccomendation for a basic chisel set and a spokeshave? The Irwin Marples basic sets are well-regarded and inexpensive. Many woodworkers in this thread have "upgraded" to much more expensive/fancy ones, and some will tell you that you should just spend the moolah for those to begin with, but I think if you're looking for a set of chisels under $100 the Marples are an excellent choice. Another option is to buy high-quality used ones, which may need some refurbishing, if you don't mind a project; you can get more bang for your buck that way. If you go that direction, condition is maybe nearly as important as the name/quality of the manufacturer, and there's so many different ones that I couldn't begin to make a recommendation. But feel free to shove some eBay listings into the thread if you want comments on what you're seeing. Ultimately though if the steel is good, you can replace a handle, re-grind and re-sharpen the edge, and recover almost any chisel to use; but this is work and you might not be interested in doing all that work. I have like ~20 chisels and one or two of them I'd regard as marginally "better" than the Irwins but most of the time I'm grabbing the Irwins anyway. For spokeshaves IMO there's no substitute for a classic Stanley 151. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Stanley+151 Here I'd definitely encourage you to buy used, you'll only have the one part to sharpen and there's lots of them out there for $40 or less. A high-quality brand new spokeshave will cost something like twice to three times that much. There are tons of knockoff/off brand ones with the same design, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=stanley+151&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 but I won't vouch for any of them. Probably some are great and some are OK and some are crap. You could also make your own, it's apparently a cool and fun project. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZwzBbcwbgU e. Paul makes a pig's breakfast of his heat treat in this video, but read the top-rated comment from "buggsy5" for some advice on how to do it a lot better. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2020 22:28
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Leperflesh posted:The Irwin Marples basic sets are well-regarded and inexpensive. Many woodworkers in this thread have "upgraded" to much more expensive/fancy ones, and some will tell you that you should just spend the moolah for those to begin with, but I think if you're looking for a set of chisels under $100 the Marples are an excellent choice. Another option is to buy high-quality used ones, which may need some refurbishing, if you don't mind a project; you can get more bang for your buck that way. If you go that direction, condition is maybe nearly as important as the name/quality of the manufacturer, and there's so many different ones that I couldn't begin to make a recommendation. But feel free to shove some eBay listings into the thread if you want comments on what you're seeing. Ultimately though if the steel is good, you can replace a handle, re-grind and re-sharpen the edge, and recover almost any chisel to use; but this is work and you might not be interested in doing all that work. I see it as a beater set and a nicer set. Use the beaters for poo poo like plywood cleanup, composites, poo poo wood, and practicing sharpening. The nicer set are used on hardwoods, intricate work, etc. Your first set generally becomes your beater set so don't spend a lot on them.
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Jun 15, 2020 23:17
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My beater set is a trio of chisels I got at home depot that have bright orange plastic handles. They hold an edge just fine and I don't mind using them for e.g. scraping gasket material off the front of my truck's engine (which I actually did). The Marples set are good enough that they're my "decent to nice chisels" and I've only grabbed more when I needed a size that I didn't already have, or, because they were super cheap and so why not. Here's a fact: any medium to high carbon steel will hold an edge and make a serviceable chisel. A really really nice chisel might use some exotic steel alloy and have really beautifully turned handles etc., but the difference between them, and a basic-rear end chisel, is in the refinement and not really in the functionality. I'm not knocking top-notch tools, but... yeah the cutting edge of a $10 chisel set will still part wood. As long as the handle stays attached you're OK. You might have to sharpen slightly more often if it's just not quite as hard of an alloy, you might not feel like it's as comfortable in the hand, etc.
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Jun 15, 2020 23:22
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Reccomendation for a basic chisel set and a spokeshave? I got this one and like it a good bit (if you're looking for bench chisels not carving chisels). https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HGH3W2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title I've got 1-2 Narex chisels and like them a lot too, this is probably a good smaller/cheaper set. https://smile.amazon.com/Premium-Firmer-Hornbeam-Handles-811506-811526/dp/B00WFOJWWQ/ref=sr_1_24 You're gonna want to be set up to hand sharpen your chisels etc anyways so you could also consider getting used chisels off ebay or craigslist and sharpening them yourselves. I bought new chisels but bought all old saws, planes and other stuff.
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Jun 16, 2020 01:03
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Narex is the best value/dollar in chisels imo. Good steel and well made with nice enough handles. There are nicer chisels out there, but Narex is an excellent baseline. LeperFlesh is right too-chisels are not high technology, and the steel and heat treating in a $10 Lowes set of chisels is as good or better than anything Thomas Chippendale ever used. The old blue Record copies of the Stanley 151 spokeshaves are good too, and may be cheaper.
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Jun 16, 2020 02:38
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Dewalt's having a decent sale on their planer, going for $500 at HD, Lowes, Amazon, probably others too: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...W735X/203054755 The 735X is the 735 with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. I'm debating picking up a jointer as well, but with the space I have I could only really do a benchtop. Not sure if that's worth it or if I should just keep doing it by hand.
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Jun 16, 2020 04:29
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Rapulum_Dei posted:This is a bit wood-adjacent but I don’t know where else to ask; I’ve made a small fibreglass sheet covered plywood boat and I’m at the endless sanding stage. Use a guide coat before sanding. Just buy the cheapest flat black spray paint you can find and lightly dust it all over let it dry do your sanding until there's no black left. If there are any spots that stay black that's a low spot.
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Jun 16, 2020 04:59
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Mr. Mambold posted:Bhyo that looks like a blast of a project, please update the thread with relevant, erm updates. I assume you've already considered and then discarded the concept of movable shelving. Yeah i've loved Ash since we used it on one of the Sunseekers. It just looks absolutely phenomenal with a lacquer on it. Part of the reason why I have such a soft spot for Cherry too. Only downside is that its just hard to find decent sheet material of it over here. I'm going to be doing the veneering myself which will help. Easier and cheaper to get veneer sheets instead of full veneered ply. I did think about movable shelves, but I didn't want the shelf pin holes to be visible as I thought they'd detract from the appearance of the unit as a whole. The shelves will be pocket holed for ease of assembly so if they need to move in the future I can do that and just fill the odd hole here and there.
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Jun 16, 2020 12:42
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Thirding Narex chisels. I've had a set for close to 10 years and I love them.
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Jun 16, 2020 14:07
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Leperflesh posted:My beater set is a trio of chisels I got at home depot that have bright orange plastic handles. They hold an edge just fine and I don't mind using them for e.g. scraping gasket material off the front of my truck's engine (which I actually did). The Marples set are good enough that they're my "decent to nice chisels" and I've only grabbed more when I needed a size that I didn't already have, or, because they were super cheap and so why not. I'm in this boat. I've got a couple of the cheap chisels sets from harbor freight as beaters and parts for planes I make, and a set of 3 Irwin Marples I got from menards for about $25 as my "good" set. They stay sharp, and that's about all I care about.
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Jun 16, 2020 14:58
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1/4" 1/2", 3/4" and 1" (6mm, 12mm, 20mm, and 26mm) the typical range for a starting set? And then thoughts on a set with a storage box vs no storage?
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Jun 16, 2020 15:58
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, still the same slab. Progress is veeeeeery slow. Here's a crappy phone pic of the knot: So is your plan to sand another 1/8" ish off and try again? Are you not able to use a plastic syringe or something small to fill the checks? That's a bummer What I'm really curious about because of similar work I want to do is if the epoxy will be enough to hold it closed on it own or if you'll see small gaps eventually
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Jun 16, 2020 16:07
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:So is your plan to sand another 1/8" ish off and try again? Are you not able to use a plastic syringe or something small to fill the checks? That's a bummer I hope I don't need to remove a 1/8" to clear that patch.  Does epoxy penetrate wood that effectively? If so, uh, poo poo. A syringe would definitely be useful though; I'll have to poke around and see if I have one handy. It'd also probably help if I heated the epoxy a bit prior to pouring.My plan for filling the gaps is to just keep filling them with epoxy until it doesn't all drain away. I don't think there's a big risk of it gapping later; while the direction of expansion/compression of this wood would work to open the gaps, it's surrounded by dry wood that's oriented in a different direction and which should work pretty well to hold it in place. I suspect that if I'd sealed this knothole while the wood was drying then the cracks wouldn't be nearly as big now.
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Jun 16, 2020 18:14
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I always pour resin proud and sand it down. As long as you don't tint with alcohol ink or something (haven't had issues with pigments) it won't stain the wood. You can sand off the excess resin, it's too viscous to penetrate tiny fibers. The resin won't pull away from the wood but if the wood wasn't cleaned of debris it could just separate at the debris and wood. You can also give resin a more matte finish with 000 steel wool or a scotchbrite pad.
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Jun 17, 2020 03:03
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I'm very green to Woodworking, but I've enrolled in a Furniture making course starting this July to change up careers. I plan on taking up a cabinet making apprenticeship post course in November, should my luck hold out. I plan on developing my skills in my spare time also, starting with building a pair of bedside tables with drawers. Is this project achievable with the following tools? Currently I'm thinking of a DeWalt flexvolt three piece (impact driver, hammer drill and circular saw), sliding compound mitre saw and Orbital sander as my first purchases, along with a pockethole kit, drill bits and clamps, speed square and glue. Obviously I'm going to wait until a few weeks into the course to buy the tools and accessories, but am I on the right track? Only purchases required for my course were three wood chisels (6mm, 12mm and 25mm) but I bought a five pack as I couldn't find those particular sizes in singles at my local Bunnings. Want cordless due to living in an apartment with a garage with no power.
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Jun 17, 2020 16:11
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23 Skidoo posted:I'm very green to Woodworking, but I've enrolled in a Furniture making course starting this July to change up careers. I plan on taking up a cabinet making apprenticeship post course in November, should my luck hold out. Hold off on the list until you're well into the course. Building cabinets or furniture without a table saw is a fool's errand.
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Jun 17, 2020 16:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:Hold off on the list until you're well into the course. Building cabinets or furniture without a table saw is a fool's errand. Roger, will do. Thanks for the advice.
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Jun 17, 2020 16:46
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23 Skidoo posted:I'm very green to Woodworking, but I've enrolled in a Furniture making course starting this July to change up careers. I plan on taking up a cabinet making apprenticeship post course in November, should my luck hold out. Otherwise yeah you can build a table with that stuff, but it will be much easier if you have access to a few other tools like Mr. Mambold said.
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Jun 17, 2020 18:39
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My latest parquetry work in progress. Curly maple and some sort of mahogany.  Curly maple rotated 90 degrees, the centre piece will have some marquetry in it once I'm done the circles.
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Jun 18, 2020 02:06
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The Slack Lagoon posted:1/4" 1/2", 3/4" and 1" (6mm, 12mm, 20mm, and 26mm) the typical range for a starting set? Those four sizes will do fine as a starting set. The box you get with e.g. certain Irwin Marples sets is cheaply made but adequate: but the day you acquire another chisel, it'll start being useless. I paid way too much for a thick leather chisel wrap bundle thing at a tiny Japanese import tool and hand woodworking store in Berkeley, which you shouldn't do unless you've got more money than sense; but your storage for your chisels should IMO be somewhat expandable, and either have them easily to hand if they only ever live in your shop, or easily and safely transportable if you are taking them somewhere regularly such as a job site or a classroom. A more reasonably priced chisel roll is a good option if you want them portable: For example (I don't vouch for this particular one, it's just the first hit from my search) https://www.amazon.com/Bora-503110-Leather-Storage-Carrying/dp/B00G534Y1M As a woodworker, you should figure on designing and constructing various woodworking tool storage things over the next few years. Shelves, brackets, etc. I try to alternate between "make a thing out of wood" projects and "improve my currently disastrous mess in the garage" projects. I think I'm going to make something like one of those magnetic strips that holds kitchen knives, but for chisels, and with better protection of the edges and reduced risk of dropping one into my foot when I reach for it and fumble.
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Jun 18, 2020 07:00
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Anyone have experience making furniture? I'd like to make a reasonably quick-and-dirty loveseat for the room I just built. Cheap and comfortable are my two big goals. Not too concerned about aesthetics or nice materials (as long as nobody gets splinters in their wrists/rear end). Are there any books or design references folks would recommend? Advice? Recommendations?
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Jun 18, 2020 07:07
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Selling my wood lathe. I want to free some cash for other tool purchases and I hardly ever use it. I basically only make tool handles with it. I do want a wood lathe, but it has to be tiny. I really would like a Lennartsfors, a swedish made lathe, very compact. Or something even smaller if possible.  Maybe I should build a lathe.
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Jun 18, 2020 07:40
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Sorry if this is off topic, but might anyone know the brand of this combination square? No visible logo.
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Jun 18, 2020 11:00
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anatomi posted:Sorry if this is off topic No that's fine, might want to also crosspost to the tools thread.
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Jun 18, 2020 11:04
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Anyone want to weigh in on what a reasonable price might be for the tools in this album? I bought some pipe clamps from a guy on CL a few weeks ago, and he has some other things he sent me pictures of. The clamps were a reasonable price, but I have no idea what might be a reasonable price for these. https://imgur.com/a/OzbkSlx
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Jun 18, 2020 17:57
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 Man, if today weren't my first day back in the office... and I had a truck... and I had another person to help...
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Jun 18, 2020 18:03
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Anyone want to weigh in on what a reasonable price might be for the tools in this album? I bought some pipe clamps from a guy on CL a few weeks ago, and he has some other things he sent me pictures of. The clamps were a reasonable price, but I have no idea what might be a reasonable price for these. $80 to $100 total? The most useful things in it are the chisels and large c clamps I think. If you can get the c clamps for less than $5 each that's a good deal. Chisels $5 each is good too. Brace and bit is pretty common, don't really need if you have a electric drill
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Jun 18, 2020 18:04
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Anyone want to weigh in on what a reasonable price might be for the tools in this album? I bought some pipe clamps from a guy on CL a few weeks ago, and he has some other things he sent me pictures of. The clamps were a reasonable price, but I have no idea what might be a reasonable price for these. I'd probably open with a lowball offer of around $35 or $40 and be happy to walk away with it for under $60. I'm pricing items based on value to me as useful tools, though; some of them might be worth more as "antiques"/decorative items to someone else. Here's how I break it down: Brace (assuming working order) $15 or so Bits for the brace: $2 each, except the adjustable one is more like $10. $0 for any bits that are bent or chipped. lovely cheap chisels: $1 each Clamps: ~$5 each for the big wooden ones, $1 each for the small metal ones. Cool old wooden box: $20 to $30? That totals up to north of $60 and I'm giving myself a bulk discount/assuming at least one or two items are in poor enough condition as to not count. Elysium posted:
Rent a pickup truck from home depot and go get it after work? It'll break down enough that you can probably wrestle it into the back. Of course, it'll be gone by then.
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Jun 18, 2020 18:07
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The Slack Lagoon posted:1/4" 1/2", 3/4" and 1" (6mm, 12mm, 20mm, and 26mm) the typical range for a starting set? I bought the full set of Narex bevel edge chisels, but the only ones I actually use are 1/4", 5/8", and 1". I have a separate 5/16" mortising chisel. You can mortise with a bevel edge chisel, but it's a chore. You could buy that toolchest, ditch the tills, and kit it out with a chisel rack. Or build your own toolchest. As for spokeshaves, I have the Lee Valley spokeshave and I like it fine. I don't have any experience with vintage spokeshaves, but Leperflesh's advice sounds good.
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Jun 18, 2020 18:22
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Wow, didn't realize how big of a difference a #5 plane would make jointing a board than a #4. Big dip toward the end of the board a #4 would have gotten right away, but the #5 wasn't even close to touching down. Crazy. I know this means I want a full on jointer plane, but at lease this is a big jump.
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Jun 18, 2020 18:47
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Elysium posted:
Liar liar pants on fire.
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Jun 18, 2020 19:34
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His Divine Shadow posted:Selling my wood lathe. I went through a similar thing a few years back, sold my huge lathe and got a small one for turning the occasional handle or knob.
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Jun 19, 2020 00:59
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I'm doing a project thread for a bunch of 18th c style chairs I'm making. I know some folks browse by bookmarks, so here's a link to the thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3928423 Meow Meow Meow posted:My latest parquetry work in progress.
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Jun 19, 2020 01:59
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I went through a similar thing a few years back, sold my huge lathe and got a small one for turning the occasional handle or knob. I'm looking at the Record DML305 or the DML250, both are a lot smaller than this one. I think I've also seen copies of the smaller record, I mean they're all from China, but with stepless speed regulation, seems to run on a DC motor. Old lathe has been sold, I got two people in queue even. Guess I shoulda asked for more...
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Jun 19, 2020 11:34
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Is red oak acceptable for a salt cellar? I know it's too open-grained for something like a cutting board, but if it's just holding salt and is sealed with lacquer/poly, would that work? Mostly asking because my plan is to make a box-jointed box out of thin stock, and without a bandsaw capable of resawing, a thickness planer, or confidence to resaw on a table saw, I'm pretty limited in what I can easily get in 1/4" or 1/2".
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Jun 19, 2020 16:01
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more falafel please posted:Is red oak acceptable for a salt cellar? I know it's too open-grained for something like a cutting board, but if it's just holding salt and is sealed with lacquer/poly, would that work? I don't see why not.
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Jun 19, 2020 16:06
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If you're sealing the wood with a few layers of poly, it doesn't really matter what wood you use, you could use anything.
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Jun 19, 2020 20:01
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Salt is also a preservative, so you don't have to worry about any of the cutting board issues that happen with red oak, or pine, or cedar, or cardboard. I'd still probably oil and wax it, but that's because I tend to already have that on hand for my other kitchen boards and serving trays. This sort of makes me want to make a bunch of very small wood containers to put daily used spices into so I can just spoon them out. Maybe some sort of big circle or square with a lid?
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Jun 19, 2020 20:37
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Jhet posted:Salt is also a preservative, so you don't have to worry about any of the cutting board issues that happen with red oak, or pine, or cedar, or cardboard. I'd still probably oil and wax it, but that's because I tend to already have that on hand for my other kitchen boards and serving trays. I think in Indian cooking they use little metal tins that fit into a bigger metal tin but I can’t remember the name for it. Might be a good thing to look at for inspiration?
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Jun 19, 2020 20:52
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