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Edit: I'm a dirty liar, my headlights draw 50 watts + 20 more for markers
DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Jun 22, 2020 |
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Jun 22, 2020 21:00
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Shelvocke posted:Dealers will put bikes on a tender on rotation so the batteries don't expire on the shop floor over time. They usually remove the adapter before sale, but I guess you got a free one. Thanks for the info. I'll call them tomorrow when they open to see if I can just exchange the battery without taking the bike in. The place is an hour away so it's pretty annoying to even have to do that.
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Jun 22, 2020 22:00
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Slavvy posted:DID, JT, RK, renthal, can't think of any others but yeah. This is it.
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Jun 22, 2020 23:44
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Um...help? I'm on the side of the road and my dr650 won't start after dropping it. The clutch lever is snapped but working it still moves the cable. The kill switch isn't on, battery works, kick stand sensor...depresses? The bike seems to think i dont have the clutch in, maybe it's not moving the cabel enough? Maybe i can swap the brake lever for the clutch lever? Edit: The lever can still pull the cable, so I guess it's a sensor somewhere telling the bike not to start. 
Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 01:05
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There's a switch in the clutch lever that might have gotten tweaked. Unplug the two wires that go into the clutch perch and connect the two loose ends together (i.e. the parts that go back into the wiring harness), or short them with a key or something while starting. The switch should only affect the starter motor, so once the engine is running you'll be fine. You could also just try bump-starting it. If the bike has a sidestand switch, you might have to do the same down there. e: it's the gray cylindrical thing below the cable in the picture you posted. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 01:13
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Ok, I see the clutch wires, the connector baffles me a bit because I'm butterfingered, but I'm trying to remove it now.
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Jun 23, 2020 01:16
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Sagebrush posted:There's a switch in the clutch lever that might have gotten tweaked. Unplug the two wires that go into the clutch perch and connect the two loose ends together (i.e. the parts that go back into the wiring harness), or short them with a key or something while starting. The switch should only affect the starter motor, so once the engine is running you'll be fine. You could also just try bump-starting it. Would starting in neutral get around that?
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Jun 23, 2020 01:18
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Tyro posted:Would starting in neutral get around that? Normally yes but Suzuki are extra lazy/cunty so you have to pull the clutch in all the time. It'll be the switch.
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Jun 23, 2020 01:21
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These wires need to be touching?
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Jun 23, 2020 01:22
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It's ruuuuuuuuning thank you all so much
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Jun 23, 2020 01:28
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FWIW, if it's anything like the DRZ then bypassing it permanently without even needing to solder is incredibly easy. Trace the wires from the clutch back under the headlight cowl and there should be spade connectors that join them into the main wiring loom. Take the two spade ends from the loom and connect them together, bypassing the cable to the clutch lever entirely. I only found this out from a mechanic who was diagnosing a starting fault, having just given me a new battery.
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Jun 23, 2020 01:37
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Safely home, very fun going through numerous busy intersections with a clutch lever that's become kind of theoretical. And remember kids, when in the woods always pack your trash out: 
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Jun 23, 2020 02:05
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:There aren't any others.
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Jun 23, 2020 12:37
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Any suggestions on DR650 levers and hand guards? I thought the Cross Training Adventure channel on youtube would mention some, but if they do I'm overlooking it.
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Jun 23, 2020 13:49
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I always thought the cycra probends on my 690 were the best ever. Everything else doesn't seem very sturdy and moves around in a crash.
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Jun 23, 2020 18:03
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Coydog posted:I always thought the cycra probends on my 690 were the best ever. Everything else doesn't seem very sturdy and moves around in a crash. same. I have some CRMs on my SAR and they've been uhh tested quite a bit  only other thing that is going to be stronger than barkbusters / probends is going to be a highway dirt bikes system since it actually threads into the bar with a big ole bolt, but I personally think they look like rear end 
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Jun 23, 2020 18:36
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Sunstar? chains, no. sprockets, yes.
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Jun 23, 2020 19:54
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The Tusk handguards are the gnarliest things I’ve ever dealt with. I’ve run them on my Bandit, Versys and now my SV and they are amazing, incredibly beefy and very lightweight I run just the aluminum bars, not the plastic guards. I’ve since powdercoated them wrinkle black. For the money they’re tough to beat https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-d-flex-handguards-with-mx-shields-p
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Jun 23, 2020 22:28
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Just did chain + sprockets on my FZ6 at 29,000 miles. It was my first time doing it, and also I believe the first time it was ever done on the bike. I torqued everything per the manual and set the slack to the loose end of spec. It feels markedly smoother. I can hear a faint gear whine that I did not notice before, is that just what a new chain + front sprocket sounds like without 3 inches of old grease packed inside the sprocket cover?
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Jun 25, 2020 00:16
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moxieman posted:Just did chain + sprockets on my FZ6 at 29,000 miles. It was my first time doing it, and also I believe the first time it was ever done on the bike. I torqued everything per the manual and set the slack to the loose end of spec. It feels markedly smoother. could also be your chain slider is a bit worn. what’s your manual say is the minimum thickness on it?
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Jun 25, 2020 01:30
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It's called out as the "drive chain guide" on the diagram and I don't see a thickness listed. I checked it over when I was cleaning everything and while it shows some wear it's definitely still a thick rear end piece of rubber.
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Jun 25, 2020 02:10
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moxieman posted:Just did chain + sprockets on my FZ6 at 29,000 miles. It was my first time doing it, and also I believe the first time it was ever done on the bike. I torqued everything per the manual and set the slack to the loose end of spec. It feels markedly smoother. Psychological bike noises after a daunting DIY are a known and understood phenomenon. Look for anything obvious, make sure the tension is still ok after a few hundred k's, check the axle nut and alignment, stop worrying.
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Jun 25, 2020 04:36
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Jack B Nimble posted:Any suggestions on DR650 levers and hand guards? I thought the Cross Training Adventure channel on youtube would mention some, but if they do I'm overlooking it. Basically any brand that has a good aluminum guard and decent hardware that won't shear. I've had good luck with Meier and Tusk. Moose has a good reputation, Cycra, maybe Renthal too?
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Jun 25, 2020 04:58
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The Tusk handguards are the gnarliest things I’ve ever dealt with. I’ve run them on my Bandit, Versys and now my SV and they are amazing, incredibly beefy and very lightweight I hate Tusk handguards with a flaming passion, they never fit well, and they bend and move when crashed, the mounting options suck. I stepped up to a pair of Probends and I'm never looking back, they're made in the US, and they have multiple mounting styles for different bars. The only thing that sucks about them is mounting the plastic guards is a PITA because they don't tap the holes (because machining processes are expensive in the US)
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Jun 25, 2020 08:35
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moxieman posted:Just did chain + sprockets on my FZ6 at 29,000 miles. It was my first time doing it, and also I believe the first time it was ever done on the bike. I torqued everything per the manual and set the slack to the loose end of spec. It feels markedly smoother. I had something similar when I did my sv650 front sprocket. Turns out the OEM ones have a small piece of rubber and aftermarket ones don't so there's a little whine at speed. Haven't noticed any issues after 10k miles so far. Not sure if this is the case with the fz6!
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Jun 25, 2020 15:03
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What’s the preferred dual sport tire these days? My brother just bought his first bike  (CRF230F) and wants to both commute to campus and hit the ORV parks up when he can.
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Jun 25, 2020 15:26
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kloa posted:What’s the preferred dual sport tire these days? My brother just bought his first bike depends on how often you want to change tires and what you're riding in. my standard rec for anyone commuting and doing light offroad stuff is a shinko 705 as it works decently well in the wet, isn't horrible in the mud, and is cheap if you're going to be doing more offroad than commuting and may see a bit more mud, then I'd take a hard look at a knobbier tire with the knowledge that you will get less life and worse wet performance
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Jun 25, 2020 15:53
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hit the bricks pal! posted:I had something similar when I did my sv650 front sprocket. Turns out the OEM ones have a small piece of rubber and aftermarket ones don't so there's a little whine at speed. Haven't noticed any issues after 10k miles so far. Not sure if this is the case with the fz6! That is indeed the case with my sprockets as well. Good to know.
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Jun 25, 2020 16:55
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kloa posted:What’s the preferred dual sport tire these days? My brother just bought his first bike Kenda K270 are pretty good.
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Jun 26, 2020 03:03
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I really like the TKC80 for a tire that can hold up to commuting and also be ridden on trails.
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Jun 27, 2020 06:15
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So I think this is the place to post things. Recent events have led me to expand my horizons a bit on this website so hello. I recently got and installed a new termi full exhaust on my MT-09, and well it hasn't been smooth. First the silencer portion was a bit ovalized and I had to get a tail pipe expander to make it fit over the center piece, then fitting everything together and the support strap over the can a nightmare. Anyway once I did get everything together and wipe it down with some alcohol wipes to start it up quite a bit of smoke was coming from the headers. I couldn't quite tell if it was coming from the headers meeting the engine or something else, like a normal thing to happen for a new exhaust install on first heat cycle. I did order new exhaust gaskets because 2 kept falling out and replacing the 3 of them are on the list for tomorrow but uh anyone have any ideas? I haven't done anything to this degree before myself so I am not really sure what's normal or not.
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Jun 27, 2020 06:41
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TheBacon posted:So I think this is the place to post things. Recent events have led me to expand my horizons a bit on this website so hello. Did you use exhaust paste, and did you torque the header bolts down? New gaskets every time you remove the exhaust is a must, as the copper rings crush to fill the available spaces. This goes doubly for new systems, trebly when they were a bit unwilling to go on and the mating surfaces aren't lined up quite right. There's also potential leakage points between header, muffler and any extra pieces. If everything else was done okay I suppose there might have been something on the headers that burned off when they got hot. You'll know next time you run it.
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Jun 27, 2020 09:40
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Does such a thing as a GPS speedo that also does GPS navigation exist, or would I be looking at 2 separate units?
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Jun 27, 2020 11:09
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TheBacon posted:So I think this is the place to post things. Recent events have led me to expand my horizons a bit on this website so hello. if there is quite a bit of smoke leaking between the headers and the engine you should probably be able to hear the leak. it is probably machining-oil from the factory that is burning off.
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Jun 27, 2020 12:23
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Does such a thing as a GPS speedo that also does GPS navigation exist, or would I be looking at 2 separate units? Motorcycle GPS units show your speed and can record trip meter etc. Or are you looking at simplified navigation like the TomTom Vio (don't know if that shows speed)?
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Jun 27, 2020 12:23
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High Protein posted:Motorcycle GPS units show your speed and can record trip meter etc. Or are you looking at simplified navigation like the TomTom Vio (don't know if that shows speed)? I really have no idea. Hoping for a real-time or minimal lag speedo, and showing my position on a map, maybe with a path to destination. Not super interested in it telling me to turn left here or whatever.
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Jun 27, 2020 12:25
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:I really have no idea. Hoping for a real-time or minimal lag speedo, and showing my position on a map, maybe with a path to destination. Not super interested in it telling me to turn left here or whatever. Well motorcycle GPS units can do that (and much more), same for a phone really. People have different preferences, I prefer using one over a phone, due to ruggedness, being able to control it with gloves on, the ability to create routes on PC and put them on the device (there's phone software for that too). You can use turn-by-turn navigation or just have it show a track to follow. Main disadvantage of motorcycle GPS units is the hardware you get for the price, the recently updated Garmin one costs ~$500 and it still looks like it's slower when scrolling around the map than my $150 phone from 3 years ago. I don't know why the prices are so inflated, probably because that's what the hi-vis BMW crowd will pay.
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Jun 27, 2020 12:43
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Thanks. Guess I'll have a look around in-person next time I'm in the city and in the meantime see if I wanna spend that much or if I'm gonna be ok with a paper map when necessary, because yeah the prices are crazy and I assumed it'd be at least as good as a phone.
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Jun 27, 2020 13:05
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:I really have no idea. Hoping for a real-time or minimal lag speedo, and showing my position on a map, maybe with a path to destination. Not super interested in it telling me to turn left here or whatever. TomTom Rider 550, which I have, does this exactly. (it also does turn by turn if you set a route). Also, TomTom, compared to Garmin, is a lot faster and smoother scrolling/UI wise. My top of the line Garmin for my bicycle which cost the same as the TomTom, is comparatively trash. Highly suggest you try out a TomTom Rider 550.
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Jun 27, 2020 13:13
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Steakandchips posted:TomTom Rider 550, which I have, does this exactly. (it also does turn by turn if you set a route). The new Zumo XT is much faster than the older models and I think comparable to TomTom, but also more expensive than the Rider 550.
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Jun 27, 2020 13:16
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