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Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Can someone recommend a good helmet/gear shop in the EU that does XXL Arai helmets?

UK based ones don't have em in XXL, even Sportsbikeshop doesn't.

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High Protein
Jul 12, 2009

Steakandchips posted:

Can someone recommend a good helmet/gear shop in the EU that does XXL Arai helmets?

UK based ones don't have em in XXL, even Sportsbikeshop doesn't.

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...ange_ListPrice=

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

Shelvocke posted:

Did you use exhaust paste, and did you torque the header bolts down?

New gaskets every time you remove the exhaust is a must, as the copper rings crush to fill the available spaces. This goes doubly for new systems, trebly when they were a bit unwilling to go on and the mating surfaces aren't lined up quite right. There's also potential leakage points between header, muffler and any extra pieces.

If everything else was done okay I suppose there might have been something on the headers that burned off when they got hot. You'll know next time you run it.

I did not use exhaust paste, I hadn't actually heard of it before your post. I did torque the header flanges to spec yes.

I thought I would be okay to reuse gaskets due to only about 2k miles on the bike and a video from a (I thought) semi reputable shop mentioning that it can be okay. I also didn't want to wait a week for new ones because I'm an impatient moron. I'll install the new gaskets today.


pimpbot posted:

if there is quite a bit of smoke leaking between the headers and the engine you should probably be able to hear the leak.
it is probably machining-oil from the factory that is burning off.

Ya I didn't have a sound of like a gap or anything, my very first bike was a 91 CB250 and those headers had rusted out at the first bend and it was a very noticeable sound, this sounded like I would expect it to sound.

Cheers both for the replies!

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

Jokes on me upon further inspection today trying to remove the headers to replace the gaskets I realized two of the exhaust ports I hosed the header studs something bad and I’m not even sure how!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Torque wrenches are not, and have never been, a substitute for knowing how tight things should be despite what the internet will tell you.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jun 27, 2020

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Slavvy posted:

Torque wrenches are not, and here never been, a substitute for knowing how tight things should be despite what the internet will tell you.

15:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8KpbCbOiYQ&t=950s

since this is the question thread, for those who don't know, the first little 'tik' when he turns the torque wrench to about 5 o'clock is the mechanism indicating that it's hit the set torque. that is where you're supposed to stop, but he continues for another quarter turn. he then appears to give it another two full rotations or so, shearing the bolt off.

then he does it again

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Jun 27, 2020

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

^^^
He's also using what appears to be a 1/2" drive for tiny 6mm shank bolts, the wrench likely isn't able to go low enough to correctly do those up regardless.


Classic example I couldn't remember in the moment, nice.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Jun 27, 2020

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

Yeah it definitely didn’t feel right on the 2nd and 3rd cylinders as I was torqueing it down, but stupid is as stupid does or whatever. Anyway now I get to pay a professional to hopefully fix it instead of digging deeper in the well

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Sagebrush posted:

15:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8KpbCbOiYQ&t=950s

since this is the question thread, for those who don't know, the first little 'tik' when he turns the torque wrench to about 5 o'clock is the mechanism indicating that it's hit the set torque. that is where you're supposed to stop, but he continues for another quarter turn. he then appears to give it another two full rotations or so, shearing the bolt off.

then he does it again

This is why click style torque wrenches are banned from use on submarines, that exact thing happened a few too many times, especially tricky if you're working around loud vibratey machinery.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
I literally didn’t know that my torque wrench clicked when I first started working on my bike a year ago. I thought they were suppose to slip like the smaller bicycle and firearms torque screwdrivers I’d used before. It wasn’t until I was like “umm I’m pretty sure this is way too snug” that I realized the mistake.

Subsequently, I’m pretty sure my Ninja 250 oil drain bolt is torqued twice as tight as it should be and may or may not come out with an abundance of metal next time I pull it. Fully prepared to have to helicoil it which will probably be a hoot in and of itself.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

At least you learned and next time you won't torque it so tight. The part that drives me the most nuts about that video is how he breaks one off, then instead of evaluating what could have gone wrong, he literally says "I'm gonna pretend that was just a ~bad screw~ and do the same thing again and see what happens." Everyone makes mistakes; morons are the ones who don't learn from them.

if you watch the next video in the series (don't) he drills a hole in the gas tank to get the gasoline out lol

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Sagebrush posted:

15:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8KpbCbOiYQ&t=950s

since this is the question thread, for those who don't know, the first little 'tik' when he turns the torque wrench to about 5 o'clock is the mechanism indicating that it's hit the set torque. that is where you're supposed to stop, but he continues for another quarter turn. he then appears to give it another two full rotations or so, shearing the bolt off.

then he does it again

This too

https://www.uasvision.com/2012/03/09/electrical-failure-caused-global-hawk-crash-in-afghanistan/

quote:

Specifically, an electrical connector to an unidentified line replacement unit (LRU) partially separated. This caused electrical damage inside the LRU, which cut power to the actuators that controlled the unmanned aircraft’s ailerons and spoilers. Within 1 min of the power failure, the aircraft lost control after hitting minor turbulence.

...

“Post-mishap analyses of in-service LRU-X-1 cap screws reflect a significant departure from required values of 18-22 inch-pounds above prevailing torque,” reads the report. “Improper torque, insufficient use of thread locking compound or reuse of a deformed lock washer could allow cap screws to vibrate loose during flight operations.”

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

Sagebrush posted:

if you watch the next video in the series (don't) he drills a hole in the gas tank to get the gasoline out lol

How can I not, now that you said this

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
And that fuckhead has 1million subs? Yeah nah, this is why you never should trust any PO statement about a bike ever. It's not rocket science to service a bike but some people I would not trust with a normal scissors.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007



That's why we say there's no such thing as Murphy proof, only Murphy resistant.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

This was really hard to watch. I yelled out loud.

Elviscat posted:

This is why click style torque wrenches are banned from use on submarines, that exact thing happened a few too many times, especially tricky if you're working around loud vibratey machinery.

I've only ever used click style torque wrenches. I've seen what look like analog dial torque wrenches, is that the alternative in such places?



Edit:

Sagebrush posted:

if you watch the next video in the series (don't) he drills a hole in the gas tank to get the gasoline out lol

I got 60 seconds in. He'd started replacing his orange tie-down straps with red tie-down straps so they'd match the Ducati he's "working on".

epswing fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jun 28, 2020

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
I watched his Panigale rebuild series. Spoiler alert, they forget to torque down the brake rotors for their “shakedown” ride with predictable results.

alr
May 14, 2009
He rides about as well as he wrenches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=511SLUHPmRw&t=20s

That wasn't his bike either apparently

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

epalm posted:

I've only ever used click style torque wrenches. I've seen what look like analog dial torque wrenches, is that the alternative in such places?



idk about submarines specifically but yes, that's one alternative. There are also digital torque wrenches that beep and have a readout of exactly how much torque you've put in, and torque sticks that you put on an impact driver which limit the torque directly.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002
I have a beam type torque wrench as well as a couple of click type torque wrenches and I find the click type a lot easier to use for fasteners that have to be torqued down pretty well. Even if you're deaf, you can feel the wrench very clearly "break" when it clicks, so that chaseontwowheels guy is just dumb.

No personal experience using torque sticks on impact drivers, but I have personal experience with trying to break lug nuts loose after a tire shop mounted my winter wheels using them, and it wasn't good. My guess is they're not very accurate. May as well just have counted ugga-duggas.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

Sagebrush posted:

15:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8KpbCbOiYQ&t=950s

since this is the question thread, for those who don't know, the first little 'tik' when he turns the torque wrench to about 5 o'clock is the mechanism indicating that it's hit the set torque. that is where you're supposed to stop, but he continues for another quarter turn. he then appears to give it another two full rotations or so, shearing the bolt off.

then he does it again

chase on two wheels is one of the most overrated mediocre youtube riders around

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

epalm posted:

This was really hard to watch. I yelled out loud.


I've only ever used click style torque wrenches. I've seen what look like analog dial torque wrenches, is that the alternative in such places?




Usually they're this style:
torque is read off that little dial.

Of course they're not idiot proof, and they always build a better idiot, a lot of the Snap-On models of that wrench have a little light that comes on at desired torque (removed for all nuclear applications, since it cannot be trusted to function correctly, obviously) which has a little pin the needle touches at the desired torque (you set it for, say 50 ft/lbs and when it reaches that the needle touches pin and bloop, light).

Well you gently caress up zeroing the dial, and that pin spins the needle around, junior sailor doesn't realize this, and wonders why the torque needle on an INCH/LB torque wrench isn't moving when he has his whole loving body weight on it, because said junior sailor has delicious pudding where his brains are supposed to be. And that's how Petty Officer Elviscat spends his whole loving week planning and executing a replacement for a radioactive nuclear valve.

Pudding-for-brains is not allowed to touch a torque wrench without feeling hot breath down his neck for the rest of his tour of duty.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Sagebrush posted:

since this is the question thread, for those who don't know, the first little 'tik' when he turns the torque wrench to about 5 o'clock is the mechanism indicating that it's hit the set torque. that is where you're supposed to stop, but he continues for another quarter turn. he then appears to give it another two full rotations or so, shearing the bolt off.

I don't understand how you can know you need a torque wrench and not know to stop when it clicks. I'm very much a shadetree mechanic who mostly learned through How Tos on the appropriate car forum and trial and error, but I'm pretty sure using a torque wrench was one of the first things I learned (and I probably use it less now, but when you're starting out it's nice to know it's pretty close to the right tightness).


Elviscat posted:

Well you gently caress up zeroing the dial, and that pin spins the needle around, junior sailor doesn't realize this, and wonders why the torque needle on an INCH/LB torque wrench isn't moving when he has his whole loving body weight on it, because said junior sailor has delicious pudding where his brains are supposed to be. And that's how Petty Officer Elviscat spends his whole loving week planning and executing a replacement for a radioactive nuclear valve.

I always assumed they start off learning how to wrench in a metal shop type environment, don't they them make have some basic competence before deploying to a sub? Or am I giving the Navy entirely too much credit?

MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Jun 28, 2020

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Cycle Asylum › Motorcycle Question Thread II: Do you have a torque wrench?

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

I have a torque wrench but it's a Harbor Freight clicky job and it's like twelve years old and I don't trust it any more :ohdear:

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

MomJeans420 posted:

I don't understand how you can know you need a torque wrench and not know to stop when it clicks.

a) he doesn't know why he'd need a torque wrench. guaranteed he just heard about them and cargo-culted it
b) he doesn't really need a torque wrench for those little case bolts anyway

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

Sagebrush posted:

a) he doesn't know why he'd need a torque wrench. guaranteed he just heard about them and cargo-culted it
b) he doesn't really need a torque wrench for those little case bolts anyway

Certainly not a foot-long one. Take the hint about how spanners and hex keys scale in length with the size of the head - it's not 100% the reason why, but it does effectively limit the amount of torque you can put in, and enables the "grunt scale" to work pretty effectively.

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



MomJeans420 posted:

I don't understand how you can know you need a torque wrench and not know to stop when it clicks.

A few months ago I had never used a torque wrench because it had just never come up for me, so I didn't know what it did to indicate "that's it, that's what you set".

So I first set it way lower than I needed and gently tightened a loose bolt to see what would happen. The audible and tactile click seemed like an indication that I'd tightened the bolt to the set torque, so I set it to the specified torque, and sure enough I had to tighten it more before the click.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

MomJeans420 posted:

I don't understand how you can know you need a torque wrench and not know to stop when it clicks. I'm very much a shadetree mechanic who mostly learned through How Tos on the appropriate car forum and trial and error, but I'm pretty sure using a torque wrench was one of the first things I learned (and I probably use it less now, but when you're starting out it's nice to know it's pretty close to the right tightness).


I always assumed they start off learning how to wrench in a metal shop type environment, don't they them make have some basic competence before deploying to a sub? Or am I giving the Navy entirely too much credit?

Chaseontwowheels is a moron, in his next video he destroys $1200 in Italian gas tank because he lacks the fundamental curiosity to ask "does this sound hollow?"

To be a Nuclear trained mechanic on a Submarine you must complete:

3 months "A" school, basic theory and operation of hand tools, pumps, motors, steam turbines, includes hands-on training.

6 months Nuclear Power School, includes mechanical, nuclear, electric and electronic theory courses, no hands on training.

6 months Nuclear Power Training Unit "Prototype" operating a real nuclear reactor under the guidance of some of the most senior operators in the fleet.

Minimum 6 months formal under-instruction training in a formal qualification program on the boat.

This "pipeline" requires an entrance exam, and has a 50% failure rate, and is considered one of the most difficult training courses in the entire military.

At no point does this teach you what it feels like to shear off $50,000 of exotic alloy, NFAS (first 3 months) is pretty good at teaching "how to swing a wrench" but everyone forgets that bu the time a year of Nuclear theory has been force-hosed into their brains, maintenance training relies heavily on supervision from shipboard personnel.

Pudding-brains actually became a fine mechanic, we ended up poo poo-canning the dude that was supposed to be watching him and keeping him from doing what he did.

I've trained dozens of Nuke mechanics, and teaching them things like "use the appropriate size wrench" "does it feel like it's threaded on straight?" "What do you think that circlip will go if you just smack it off with a screwdriver?" are the hardest skills to teach by far, they require an innate understanding and no amount of explaining and demonstrating will teach them how to do it correctly.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Elviscat posted:

I've trained dozens of Nuke mechanics, and teaching them things like "use the appropriate size wrench" "does it feel like it's threaded on straight?" "What do you think that circlip will go if you just smack it off with a screwdriver?" are the hardest skills to teach by far, they require an innate understanding and no amount of explaining and demonstrating will teach them how to do it correctly.

Great stuff, couldn't agree more. At least with bikes, aptitudes seem to vary wildly even after lots of practice and training. Some people just get it, others need to find something else to do, most are good enough to get by.

Feed this back into the nature of small slow bikes - simple construction helps fix small boo-boos, cheap parts alleviate the big ones - and the evidence supporting 'start small' really piles up.

You learn by loving up, both on the bike and trying to take care of it. Smaller bikes are more forgiving in both arenas. Not to mention the really ugly feedback loop you get from too much bike + too little spanner, again helpfully demonstrated by the above videos.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

FBS posted:

I have a torque wrench but it's a Harbor Freight clicky job and it's like twelve years old and I don't trust it any more :ohdear:

If you plan to do a lot of mechanical work it's worth spending $150 on a nice one that you'll have for the rest of your life. My main torque wrench is a Precision Instruments split-beam type, which won't get screwed up if you forget to loosen it after use like the twisty handle kind, and which you can send back for recalibration at any time if that's something you want to do.

I started out with a $15 deflection type like everyone else does, and it was fine while getting started, but it eventually broke when I tried to hit the top of the scale like they all do, and having good tools is just so nice.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass

Sagebrush posted:

15:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8KpbCbOiYQ&t=950s

since this is the question thread, for those who don't know, the first little 'tik' when he turns the torque wrench to about 5 o'clock is the mechanism indicating that it's hit the set torque. that is where you're supposed to stop, but he continues for another quarter turn. he then appears to give it another two full rotations or so, shearing the bolt off.

then he does it again

How do you even be this much of a meathead :psyduck:

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Sagebrush posted:

15:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8KpbCbOiYQ&t=950s

since this is the question thread, for those who don't know, the first little 'tik' when he turns the torque wrench to about 5 o'clock is the mechanism indicating that it's hit the set torque. that is where you're supposed to stop, but he continues for another quarter turn. he then appears to give it another two full rotations or so, shearing the bolt off.

then he does it again

I am torn between "we've all been there" and "this chucklefuck needs to put the wrenches down forever". WTF is he even using a torque wrench on that bolt in the first place, 10 ft/lbs with a 1/2 torque wrench? Then he blames the bolt, meaning that he is incapable of self reflection. Then he has no ideas on what to do next without consulting a shop? You need to learn from your mistakes, and deal with the consequences yourself.

I am an untrained hack but I have 3/4's of a lifetime turning screws and bolts, the thing you can't teach is "a reasonable amount of force". It must be learned through trial and error and some will just never get it.

Ola
Jul 19, 2004

I'm not a good mechanic, but I at least I was able to learn about the useless lower range of a big torque wrench in only the time it took a clutch assembly bolt to go "tink!"

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002

Gorson posted:

the thing you can't teach is "a reasonable amount of force". It must be learned through trial and error and some will just never get it.

D&D is over there ---->

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Jazzzzz posted:

D&D is over there ---->

If you replace "bolt" with "protester" the whole thing could cross post to C-SPAM.

Ola posted:

I'm not a good mechanic, but I at least I was able to learn about the useless lower range of a big torque wrench in only the time it took a clutch assembly bolt to go "tink!"

They're almost useless under 20ft lbs unless they are high end or calibrated. If you watch the next video he buys begs a nm wrench. But he misses the point. It's an engine side cover, which is aluminum being mated to a motor case which is also aluminum. It's not under any pressure, really, it's just there to protect the clutch and contain the oil. If the oem wanted you to crank them in there they wouldn't use M5 bolts. It's more important that the surface be clean and not marred, and the bolts around the cover be tightened to approximately the correct torque. You can do this accurately by hand. If you get a leak after that you either have a bad mating surface or a bad gasket.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Elviscat posted:

Usually they're this style:
torque is read off that little dial.

I like these, they're pretty nice to use, and they're pretty much the only way to check run-in torque. But the dial makes them pretty chunky and sometimes you don't have the space (correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think they typically have a ratcheting mechanism). For just personal use I just use click types because they're easy. The beam types aren't really any better than guesstimating tbh.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Harbor freight torque wrenches have been tested to death on YouTube and are generally pretty accurate out of the box, as determined by endless you tubers looking to dunk on them.

The problem with every torque wrench is that they eventually need to be recalibrated, which no one does outside of businesses who stand to lose money from inaccurate torque wrenches

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Harbor freight torque wrenches have been tested to death on YouTube and are generally pretty accurate out of the box, as determined by endless you tubers looking to dunk on them.

The problem with every torque wrench is that they eventually need to be recalibrated, which no one does outside of businesses who stand to lose money from inaccurate torque wrenches

Calibration is one thing, and it's not that they aren't accurate, it's that in practice with no ratcheting mechanism, and parallax from your viewing angle to the needle, it becomes pretty hard to tell "did I just pull 70ftlb or 80 ftlb?" on one of these:


In reality, most large fasteners havs a pretty broad torque range so it doesn't really matter that much, but I wouldn't use one if I really wanted to be accurate, plus non-ratcheting wrenches suuuuuck.

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Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

Nidhg00670000 posted:

The SV has started acting strange. As soon as it is in 5th or 6th gear, it feels like the I'm lugging the engine no matter what rpm I'm at? Different exhaust note, shaking in sync with the cylinders firing sort of. At least I think it is connected to 5th/6th, I've been trying to gently caress around with riding in 4th where I wouldn't usually and stuff.

2003 SV650.

No idea if it's related, but I did plugs and air filter the other day. After I was done, I started it up and let it idle for a while. Gave it a couple of revs, all good. Turned it off and rolled it back in the garage.

Going to work the next day, it won't start. Starter goes round round, catches just the tiniest bit. Gave it some gas, it caught a little but died as soon as I let go of the gas. Took the car. New attempt yesterday, won't catch at all.

Battery is charged, fuel pump primes, double checked that the plug caps are on, fuel line isn't pinched.

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