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stephenthinkpad
Jan 2, 2020
In 5 years everybody will be shooting photo/video with a phone. You either use a $200 phone with a poo poo 1/3" sensor or a $2000 phone with a 1.2" primary sensor, a 1“ wide angel sensor, a 3x telephoto lens, a 5x and a 10x tel; plus a TOF lens and an inferred lens to round out the camera module.

Also, you guys got an an active and frame war free mirrorless forum to recommend? It looks like this ship is going to sink soon.

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Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


stephenthinkpad posted:

In 5 years everybody will be shooting photo/video with a phone. You either use a $200 phone with a poo poo 1/3" sensor or a $2000 phone with a 1.2" primary sensor, a 1“ wide angel sensor, a 3x telephoto lens, a 5x and a 10x tel; plus a TOF lens and an inferred lens to round out the camera module.

Also, you guys got an an active and frame war free mirrorless forum to recommend? It looks like this ship is going to sink soon.

I'll use it to take pictures of my flying car.

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)

Finger Prince posted:

I'll use it to take pictures of my flying car.

Popular Science told me I’ll have one in my garage next year!

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012

Chinese mirrorless adapters are just so... crap compared to Sigma MC-21 or Canon EF-R adapter or Nikon FTZ.

Poor materials. Poor workmanship. Poor design choices. Real flare machines, badly matted, some are even polished bright inside! The flares you get when light reflects between shiny parts and the highly reflective imaging sensor...



I had to shim all my adapters for roughly proper thickness. Every one of them was way off. Had to get some velour tape and cardboard to prevent internal flare:







I got better at it in the end.. but they're all serviceable I hope.

The Fotasy adapters sold in USA are extra crap. They are probably suitable only for tiny and light lenses like 50mm 1.7 or so. They have three 1x3mm screws holding the bayonet to the adapter body. Three tiny, tiny screws holding a 1,5kg 80-200/2.8 zoom to the camera. Can they really hold up? What if the zoom just rips the screws out of the soft aluminium? What if the screws snap and my zoom tumbles to the ground? I'm considering adding some extra screws to the adapter's bayonet to hold it better in place. That just requires precision drilling and I have no idea how to make threads for tiny screws.

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)
I had a Commlite EF-FE adaptor for a while. It was...so-so. Never had anyone outright communication failures but autofocus was pretty slow. Ended selling and getting the Sigma. Much happier now.

huhu
Feb 24, 2006
I just got a Sony a6000 and I'm having an issue. I've been using it as a webcam with a capture card. For whatever reason the camera will focus fine on my face, and then every few seconds it'll do this sort of pulse where it'll focus out to completely blurry and then back in. It's occurs super quickly but it's pretty jarring to experience. Thoughts on what this might be?

Pablo Bluth
Sep 7, 2007

I've made a huge mistake.

DJExile posted:

dammit does this mean the 150-400mm is dead because I will be so mad
https://www.dpreview.com/news/1650119109/olympus-to-ship-150-400mm-f4-5-this-winter-adds-8-25mm-f4-pro-to-lens-roadmap

So Olympus are saying it's still on schedule for this winter. People not believing in there being a unwavering commitment will kill a system no matter how good it is (ref: see Samsung NX) so it doesn't surprise me that they're sticking to an announced product. I think it confirms there are plans beyond breaking it up and selling off the assets.

DJExile
Jun 28, 2007



Hell yeah


quote:

Furthermore, to make super telephoto shooting more convenient and to fulfill the growing needs of birding and wildlife photographers, development is underway to newly add Bird Detection capability to Olympus’ Intelligent Subject Detection Autofocus on the OM-D E-M1X camera. This new feature will be available for the E-M1X via a firmware update that is scheduled for release in Winter 2020.

HELL YEAH :toot:

Atlatl
Jan 2, 2008

Art thou doubting
your best bro?
HELL YEAH

Ouhei
Oct 23, 2008

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:
Mailed my X-Pro 2 and lenses over to MPB and ordered the X100V, gonna hold off on the WCL or TCL until I use it a bit and see how much I really need them. I have a feeling I'll want the WCL as wider is usually harder than tighter in most situations.

Animal
Apr 8, 2003

Ouhei posted:

Mailed my X-Pro 2 and lenses over to MPB and ordered the X100V, gonna hold off on the WCL or TCL until I use it a bit and see how much I really need them. I have a feeling I'll want the WCL as wider is usually harder than tighter in most situations.

Just give yourself 6 months with just the camera before you buy the conversion lenses. The thing I love the most about the X100 is precisely the fact that I don’t have other lenses for it.

I’ve been using the V for over a week now and it’s awesome. The only improvement that would make it a perfect camera for me would be a fixed manual focusing ring like the Leica Q but that’s never gonna happen.

Fools Infinite
Mar 21, 2006
Journeyman
An xf10/x70/gr ii/coolpix a aren't that far off from the price of the wide angle converter, and then you have a pocketable option too (although those are all f2.8).

Shart Carbuncle
Aug 4, 2004

Star Trek:
The Motion Picture

huhu posted:

I just got a Sony a6000 and I'm having an issue. I've been using it as a webcam with a capture card. For whatever reason the camera will focus fine on my face, and then every few seconds it'll do this sort of pulse where it'll focus out to completely blurry and then back in. It's occurs super quickly but it's pretty jarring to experience. Thoughts on what this might be?

Sounds like the autofocus is having trouble deciding on its subject. It could be picking up on something in the background and then reacquiring your face.

There are a few possible solutions. One is to use manual focus; if you’re relatively stationary, you don’t need it to track you at all. Just get it focused at the right distance (and close down the aperture to widen the depth of field).

If you do need autofocus, you can refine the settings. Check to see if face detection is on (if it is, see if there’s something that looks like a face in the background, like a poster or photo on the wall). You can also change the AF area so it ignores other parts of the frame. You can put a focus zone where your face generally hangs out.

If it’s a slow lens, you might need more light.

Edit: curious to know what lens you are using.

XBenedict
May 23, 2006

YOUR LIPS SAY 0, BUT YOUR EYES SAY 1.

DJExile posted:

Hell yeah


HELL YEAH :toot:

poo poo. Is this enough to make me move back to Oly?

Ouhei
Oct 23, 2008

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Animal posted:

Just give yourself 6 months with just the camera before you buy the conversion lenses. The thing I love the most about the X100 is precisely the fact that I don’t have other lenses for it.

I’ve been using the V for over a week now and it’s awesome. The only improvement that would make it a perfect camera for me would be a fixed manual focusing ring like the Leica Q but that’s never gonna happen.

Yeah I think that’s a good idea. The point of this is to simplify as much as I can do I should see if I can just make do with the one.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Shart Carbuncle posted:

Sounds like the autofocus is having trouble deciding on its subject. It could be picking up on something in the background and then reacquiring your face.

There are a few possible solutions. One is to use manual focus; if you’re relatively stationary, you don’t need it to track you at all. Just get it focused at the right distance (and close down the aperture to widen the depth of field).

If you do need autofocus, you can refine the settings. Check to see if face detection is on (if it is, see if there’s something that looks like a face in the background, like a poster or photo on the wall). You can also change the AF area so it ignores other parts of the frame. You can put a focus zone where your face generally hangs out.

If it’s a slow lens, you might need more light.

Edit: curious to know what lens you are using.

The lens might also have a focus range limiter switch which gives it hard limits which might help.

KinkyJohn
Sep 19, 2002

I was amazed at what the sony a7iii could do the other night when I managed to get usable photos of my toddler jumping on the bed only illuminated by a night light on the bed stand. I had a sigma 35mm art attached with the mc-11, at f1.6 the thing still managed to grab eye-af in near darkness on a moving subject.

huhu
Feb 24, 2006

Shart Carbuncle posted:

Sounds like the autofocus is having trouble deciding on its subject. It could be picking up on something in the background and then reacquiring your face.

There are a few possible solutions. One is to use manual focus; if you’re relatively stationary, you don’t need it to track you at all. Just get it focused at the right distance (and close down the aperture to widen the depth of field).

If you do need autofocus, you can refine the settings. Check to see if face detection is on (if it is, see if there’s something that looks like a face in the background, like a poster or photo on the wall). You can also change the AF area so it ignores other parts of the frame. You can put a focus zone where your face generally hangs out.

If it’s a slow lens, you might need more light.

Edit: curious to know what lens you are using.

I've got a Sigma 30mm f1.4 wide open. Minimum focus distance is 30cm and I'm about 60cm from the lens. My background is the wall on the other side of the room which is mostly grey paint and a landscape picture hung up. I did just order a green screen so maybe that'll help? Also i ordered some new lights which should provide more light. Maybe it's the low light that's the issue. I do have 2 2 foot by 3 foot softbox lights about 2 feet from my face at 45 degree angles to the left and right.

sigma 6
Nov 27, 2004

the mirror would do well to reflect further

This idiot decided to wait for the "4th of July sale" only to find all the cameras I had been looking at get raised in price by a few hundred bucks. WTF!?! Should have pulled the trigger during the memorial day sale. Can't believe the massive difference in prices seemingly across the board. I guess I was warned and often a sale isn't really a sale but drat...

:suicide:

sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 5, 2020

Ouhei
Oct 23, 2008

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:
Got my X100V in yesterday, first impressions:

- I never thought my XPRO-2 was big, but this being a little smaller is pretty nice
- Build quality is of course excellent
- Love the small change in the ISO dial where it stays up, makes it a lot easier to use
- Going to take a while to get used to the leaf shutter lack of noise
- 23mm is going to be great I think, did some quick snaps around the house and it's wide enough it seems
- Close focus distance is addicting, loved it on the 16mm, so I'm happy to keep that
- Got used to the lack of D-Pad fairly quickly, not sure I'll use the touch screen gestures though

So far very happy with it, can't wait to get to shoot more, even being stuck at home.

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

When I tried out the X-Pro in a store I was surprised by how chunky the body felt compared to my X100. The GX50R must feel like a literal brick.

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012

Finally the grip I ordered from eBay in May arrived. Now the Panasonic S1 feels complete, earlier it was missing 40% of the camera and using it in photoshoots was always a pain. Now it is a lot better.

Also it has an extra 8-way joystick, manual focus loupe button, AEL, WB, ISO, EV buttons, two more scroll wheels and so on.. The grip feels the same in both orientations. In my old Sony A7II the grip was noticeably different in portrait mode.

Every day I am surprised how good this camera is. Usually one or other thing is wrong in most cameras, but not in this one. I can't think of a single problem or change I would like to see. After two months of use this feels like the final camera I will need for 35mm format manual focus photography.

Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Jul 9, 2020

Wengy
Feb 6, 2008

Canon R5’s looks cool, but why does it still have a low pass filter? Weird

Pablo Bluth
Sep 7, 2007

I've made a huge mistake.

Wengy posted:

Canon R5’s looks cool, but why does it still have a low pass filter? Weird
Either the 5DS massively outsold the 5DSr so they figured people want AA, or they're saving non-AA for their future high megapixel still focused body.

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012

I hate moire more than some teeny tiny loss of perceived resolution. I try to avoid shooting at smaller apertures but even at f/2 my old 70's and 80's nikkor lenses produce moire with S1... I completely understand why manufactures don't want to remove the low pass filter.

Malcolm XML
Aug 8, 2009

I always knew it would end like this.

Wengy posted:

Canon R5’s looks cool, but why does it still have a low pass filter? Weird
R5 is a video oriented camera, sharpness is sometimes avoided in that space

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.
I've never really paid attention to mirrorless stuff, but reading about the new Canon R bodies sent me down a bit of a rabbit hole. I don't think full frame mirrorless is for me at the moment, but I do enough hiking/backpacking that having a compact/lightweight body is attractive.

I noticed that refurbished/lightly used M50 bodies and kits can sometimes be found for $3-400. This seems like a no-brainer for someone who is fairly invested in Canon APS-C lenses, but I'd be curious if there's a non-Canon body that I'm ignoring which I should be aware of?

Also, how bad is shooting with an EVF for things like birds?

XBenedict
May 23, 2006

YOUR LIPS SAY 0, BUT YOUR EYES SAY 1.

BeastOfExmoor posted:

I noticed that refurbished/lightly used M50 bodies and kits can sometimes be found for $3-400. This seems like a no-brainer for someone who is fairly invested in Canon APS-C lenses, but I'd be curious if there's a non-Canon body that I'm ignoring which I should be aware of?

It seems sensible to stick with Canon if you already have the glass. But if you want to look at MFT options, Oly and Panasonic have some stuff in the same range that's stupid light and small.


BeastOfExmoor posted:

Also, how bad is shooting with an EVF for things like birds?

It honestly depends on the EVF. A low-res EVF can be a nightmare for shooting anything, but a really good one is such huge difference maker for adjusting exposure, focus, etc.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

BeastOfExmoor posted:

I've never really paid attention to mirrorless stuff, but reading about the new Canon R bodies sent me down a bit of a rabbit hole. I don't think full frame mirrorless is for me at the moment, but I do enough hiking/backpacking that having a compact/lightweight body is attractive.

I noticed that refurbished/lightly used M50 bodies and kits can sometimes be found for $3-400. This seems like a no-brainer for someone who is fairly invested in Canon APS-C lenses, but I'd be curious if there's a non-Canon body that I'm ignoring which I should be aware of?

Also, how bad is shooting with an EVF for things like birds?
Sony and Fuji have great APS-C cameras too, but what I found is that to actually get something significantly better than an M50 would cost like twice as much for the body (at least at that time), and you'd have to replace all the glass, so I stuck with Canon. Overall I'd say I still prefer a real viewfinder but I can't say the one in the M50 was causing any actual issues.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

BeastOfExmoor posted:

Also, how bad is shooting with an EVF for things like birds?

For birds in flight I would stick with a traditional OVF.

While APS lens offerings are quite limited I would take a look at the Nikon Z50 as well. Didn’t pay attention to it initially (I shoot with a Z6 and D500) but people on FM forums kept posting great shots and positive comments which got me looking more closely at it. Really looks like a great option for a compact image maker these days. But there are great cameras from most manufacturers.

harperdc
Jul 24, 2007

BeastOfExmoor posted:

I've never really paid attention to mirrorless stuff, but reading about the new Canon R bodies sent me down a bit of a rabbit hole. I don't think full frame mirrorless is for me at the moment, but I do enough hiking/backpacking that having a compact/lightweight body is attractive.

I noticed that refurbished/lightly used M50 bodies and kits can sometimes be found for $3-400. This seems like a no-brainer for someone who is fairly invested in Canon APS-C lenses, but I'd be curious if there's a non-Canon body that I'm ignoring which I should be aware of?

I jumped into Canon’s Ms with the M3, so same mount as the M50. If you want it for some snapshots on hikes or as a take-anywhere camera for times when you don’t want to be Super Serious, go get the M50 and 22 pancake. But the EF-M glass selection is limited, the RF selection is still limited, and while there is an EF-to-EF-M adapter, it makes the cameras very big and unwieldy to use.

So again for serious use, if you want to stick with Canon, give it another year or two for the ecosystem to grow.

loaf
Jan 25, 2004



I got an M5 with the 18-150 a few months ago and it works great as a light alternative to my 6D. There aren't a lot of EF-M lenses but the 22mm, 32mm, and 11-22mm are excellent. The EF-M 55-200mm is pretty bad but an SLR with the 55-250mm would be much better for birds.

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.
Thanks everyone for the responses.

XBenedict posted:

It seems sensible to stick with Canon if you already have the glass. But if you want to look at MFT options, Oly and Panasonic have some stuff in the same range that's stupid light and small.

What are some of the low-cost Panasonic and Olympus models?


mobby_6kl posted:

Sony and Fuji have great APS-C cameras too, but what I found is that to actually get something significantly better than an M50 would cost like twice as much for the body (at least at that time), and you'd have to replace all the glass, so I stuck with Canon. Overall I'd say I still prefer a real viewfinder but I can't say the one in the M50 was causing any actual issues.

This is pretty much what I found as well. I was surprised to find a (seemingly) similar story with M43 as well. I thought I might just be missing something though.

Clayton Bigsby posted:

For birds in flight I would stick with a traditional OVF.

While APS lens offerings are quite limited I would take a look at the Nikon Z50 as well. Didn’t pay attention to it initially (I shoot with a Z6 and D500) but people on FM forums kept posting great shots and positive comments which got me looking more closely at it. Really looks like a great option for a compact image maker these days. But there are great cameras from most manufacturers.

I probably should have qualified this. A lot of my bird photography is documenting rarities, rather than trying to nail that perfect shot of a more common species in flight. Obviously I'd love to get the latter if possible, but it's not my main focus.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Olympus announced a autofocus:birds mode or something like it, and it got me thinking about how they do it. The first guess I had was some kind of machine vision identify:birdshape algorithm or something. But then I figured it would probably be easier to remove the IR filter and focus on the warm blob hidden in the cool foliage, and somehow filter the IR wavelengths with software. That would really help for trying to get a photo of a little dull bird sulking in a bush, where a normal AF gets confused by all the leaves and twigs and branches. Maybe it's a combination of both?

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


The bird autofocus is almost certainly a ML thing, like face detection, much cheaper than adding hardware.

The Olympus models are the OMD series - get a weatherproof one if you're doing birding, otherwise pick the one in the price/age bracket that you're comfortable with, there's a variety of models now and none are a bad deal used. They are great value cameras imo, the ibis is an incredible crutch if you're bad like me. There are also lots of small and cheap lenses available which give good photos - as well as the smaller sensor size, m43 leans more heavily on digital distortion correction than other series which keeps the lenses even lighter. Bear in mind that Olympus just got bought by a private equity company and might be sold for parts - might be able to get cheap gear soon, otherwise consider the Panasonic m43 bodies. The lenses are mostly compatible between the two.

distortion park fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Jul 13, 2020

DJExile
Jun 28, 2007


the Olympus targeted AF thing is some deep-learning system they originally made to look for trains, cars, and... I think like motorcycle helmets. I always wondered if they'd expand on it and doing it for birding is loving amazing.

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.
Honestly, If "bird autofocus" consisted simply of a machine learning algorithm to ignore grass and leaves it'd be pretty damned useful.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

The sigma 1.4 primes for EF-M look good and seem to be a good value.

XBenedict
May 23, 2006

YOUR LIPS SAY 0, BUT YOUR EYES SAY 1.

Speaking of bird focus, I'm a Fuji guy, but I'm looking at maybe getting a lighter MFT setup for birds and wildlife. I'm looking at the Lumix G9, and I was wondering if anyone had any personal experience with the "animal focus" that they added, as it pertains to birds.

The video reviews of it have been pretty positive so far, but none were specifically bird-oriented.

Edit: Thought I was in the bird thread..my bad.

XBenedict fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jul 13, 2020

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powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Maybe I just have stockholm syndrome from carrying a shoulder mount camera everywhere, but is it really worth buying into a new system what seems like a pretty incremental amount of size/weight from fuji?

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