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Probably have to safety wire it to keep it on.
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Jul 9, 2020 01:36
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kloa posted:Probably have to safety wire it to keep it on. Yeah, I clamped it on that quarter inch but I’d really rather have it fit on fully.
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Jul 9, 2020 02:05
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Mower sadness Sorry, only just saw this, and apologies if you know these things already. Vehicles generally have either a frame ground (almost all of them) or a floating ground. Frame ground means that most or all components connect the negative terminal to the frame. The negative terminal of the battery is also connected to the frame, which effectively becomes a huge low resistance ground. The stator within the engine casing is also usually earthed this way. Floating grounds exist purely in wires connecting components together without getting the frame involved. A "bad earth" means either one of the components or battery connections to the frame is bad and so the circuit cannot complete effectively. Usual treatment is to check all the connections and terminals, sand back the terminal points to bare metal so you get good conductivity, and replaced pinched or stopped wires. If you have a multimeter across the battery terminals while you push the starter, the voltage should drop from, say, 12.8v, to something lower, maybe as low as 9 or 10 volts. If you can jump the mower the usual way, it means that the problem isn't bad earth because the electricity is still making a full circuit (unless the problem is bad contact between the negative terminal of the battery and the lead, and you bridge it with the jumper cable somehow .. seems unlikely) It's a new battery - does it actually produce enough CCA for the starter motor? If the starter requires 15a at 12v and the battery only gives out 10a at 12v then there's the shortfall (I know very little about mowers), the manual might solve this one Other strange possibilities: - it's a 12v battery and the mower and your truck use 24v - there's huge resistance between the battery and the starter motor, and your car generator can overcome it, but the battery cannot - your brand new battery is pants What I think is more likely - the spark plug is either badly gapped or nearly toast, and there is simply too much resistance for the battery to overcome. The spark plug resistance is closely related to the gap and condition of the anode/cathode and your weedy mower battery can't produce a spark across the gulf, but the 600w generator in your car can hammer it out and get things moving. New plug may fix your problem.
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Jul 9, 2020 08:58
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Shelvocke posted:
Mowers use magneto produced spark from the flywheel, not the battery (certain exceptions aside). What motor are we looking at here, and what do you mean by "doesn't start"? Does it turn over and not start or doesn't spin at all? Some (Briggs single cylinder) motors have issues with the valves getting loose and compression release not working. The same model also has a crappy carb design that can allow it to fill the cylinder with fuel and keep it from turning over.
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Jul 9, 2020 14:19
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Is there a break-in period when replacing clutch friction plates? Service manual didn't say anything, but it also didn't give a torque value for the spring screws. Also, the pillars on the clutch center that the springs sit around had grooves worn into them from the springs, on the surfaces closest to the hub. I assume that's okay? Also also, rebuilt the front brakes today. Discovered that the inner seals that BikeBandit took five drat weeks to send me came in a pack of four that only had one in it. That made me annoyed enough that I managed to put the entire caliper back together and on the bike and starting on the other one before realizing I'd skipped one of the dust seals. Long, long day.
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Jul 12, 2020 04:44
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TheNothingNew posted:Is there a break-in period when replacing clutch friction plates? The hub wear is ok. You don't really need to run them in but for best results you need to soak them in engine oil before fitting. The clutch gets very little oil between the plates under normal operation so if you dry dick them, they usually burn up or distort before they get enough oil.
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Jul 12, 2020 05:22
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TheNothingNew posted:Is there a break-in period when replacing clutch friction plates? The last couple clutches I did, I soaked in oil overnight and no problems at all from them. Also, find the torque specs. They’re really low torque, like enough that I bought an inch-pound wrench the first time I did the job.
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Jul 12, 2020 05:58
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Slavvy posted:The hub wear is ok. Cool, appreciate the reassurance. Yeah, soaked 'em in oil first. Caught a couple of how-to vids and they made a point of calling that out. Thanks.
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Jul 12, 2020 06:01
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*sigh* Okay, checked this morning and the clutch cover is leaking oil. Suggestions on how to better clean off old gasket material? Just a razor blade not good enough, apparently. Also someone keep their fingers crossed for me that this new gasket comes off in one piece.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:36
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TheNothingNew posted:
I've been hearing this sort of thing about bike bandit for as long as I've been into motorcycles. Even my own experience has matched it, the time I was foolish enough to give them money. It's beyond me why anyone would order from them instead of Ebay or Partzilla.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:52
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TheNothingNew posted:*sigh* I razored mine very carefully and slowly, using about 5 blades so I always had a sharp one, and kept spreading aircraft remover on with a q-tip. Then sanded with 220 on a block, then put a very thin layer of rtv on the gasket surface of the clutch cover. The engine side was fine, fortunately. It sealed really well and hasn’t leaked a bit. I’ve undoubtedly resigned myself to this same process every time now because of the rtv, but I hope it’s many years before next time.
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Jul 12, 2020 19:15
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I razored mine very carefully and slowly, using about 5 blades so I always had a sharp one, and kept spreading aircraft remover on with a q-tip. Then sanded with 220 on a block, then put a very thin layer of rtv on the gasket surface of the clutch cover. The engine side was fine, fortunately. It sealed really well and hasn’t leaked a bit. I’ve undoubtedly resigned myself to this same process every time now because of the rtv, but I hope it’s many years before next time. Right, I'll give this a shot. No aircraft paint remover but I should have some acetone from my computer building days, give that a try. Good point about using RTV; I don't see why I should need to get back in there unless the engine actually pops, in which case I have more pressing issues. Thanks.
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Jul 12, 2020 19:30
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Ffs it's RTV OR gaskets, not RTV AND gaskets. It didn't have goo there from the factory, it doesn't need it now.
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Jul 12, 2020 20:10
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Slavvy posted:Ffs it's RTV OR gaskets, not RTV AND gaskets. It didn't have goo there from the factory, it doesn't need it now. This did occur once I had the side off. Debating trying again with the gasket (came off fine) versus skipping it and using just RTV. Even if my time is worthless, this is getting expensive in oil.
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Jul 12, 2020 21:05
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220 grit sandpaper seems awfully rough for a gasket surface
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Jul 12, 2020 22:29
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Slavvy posted:Ffs it's RTV OR gaskets, not RTV AND gaskets. It didn't have goo there from the factory, it doesn't need it now. JB Weld or bust. edit: For case gaskets, I do paper gasket and bearing grease. This helps it come off easier next time. Coydog fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jul 12, 2020 |
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Jul 12, 2020 22:47
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Yeah, a little system compatible fluid (oil, water etc) has never hurt anything. They make gasket sealer, which is like a thin, tacky RTV, but it shouldn't be necessary.
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Jul 13, 2020 00:03
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Sagebrush posted:220 grit sandpaper seems awfully rough for a gasket surface I've found scotchbrite applied gently with some wd40 works quite well for side cases and stuff where clearances and straightness aren't so critical. Elviscat posted:Yeah, a little system compatible fluid (oil, water etc) has never hurt anything. I know this stuff as gasket shellac, it's very helpful when you have pitted surfaces and just need to fill a few cavities.
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Jul 13, 2020 00:17
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Coydog posted:I've been hearing this sort of thing about bike bandit for as long as I've been into motorcycles. Even my own experience has matched it, the time I was foolish enough to give them money. It's beyond me why anyone would order from them instead of Ebay or Partzilla. I've been bitching about Bike Bandit a lot recently (they finally acknowledged my emails and cancelled my order from May), but I've had great luck with Adept Powersports recently (I think formerly 2WheelPros or something like that). But really, don't order from Bike Bandit, other people have access to the same OEM parts and can actually get them to you. I have no idea what's up with BB but I couldn't run a business worse if I tried.
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Jul 13, 2020 01:16
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It kinda sounds like the clue is in their name.
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Jul 13, 2020 03:41
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Slavvy posted:Ffs it's RTV OR gaskets, not RTV AND gaskets. It didn't have goo there from the factory, it doesn't need it now. Backing this up with anecdote, a PO had done the timing cover on my zzr with RTV and a gasket and epoxy, and it leaked like a sieve. Razored the epoxy off, made sure to get back to bare metal with no large chips (a few into the edges but nothing that went all the way across the mating surface), slapped a new paper gasket in and it never leaked again. Sandpaper was not involved.
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Jul 13, 2020 07:39
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So I scratched both footpegs this weekend (to my surprise) and now I wonder where you get replacements for the downward nipple? Is that just standard hardware.
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Jul 13, 2020 17:10
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Slavvy posted:Ffs it's RTV OR gaskets, not RTV AND gaskets. It didn't have goo there from the factory, it doesn't need it now. Sagebrush posted:220 grit sandpaper seems awfully rough for a gasket surface Yeah, you’re right so I went back and looked at my notes. It was 320 grit wet and a polish with scotchbrite. The condition of the gasket surface was really bad before. I know you’re not supposed to do both, which is why I put as little as possible on, and only between the gasket and clutch cover side, not engine as well. The last PO to get in there had done some gouging and whatever he sealed the gasket on with was worse than grey rtv. I kind of knew what I was creating for myself next time, but it’ll at least be better than what I had to deal with the first time.
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Jul 13, 2020 17:58
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SEKCobra posted:So I scratched both footpegs this weekend (to my surprise) and now I wonder where you get replacements for the downward nipple? Is that just standard hardware. They are pretty standard, search for peg feelers.
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Jul 13, 2020 18:45
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I'm having problems shifting. I recently got some fancy riding boots. The size and inflexibility of the new boots means I can't get my heel on the peg and my foot under the shifter at the same time. I guess I was relying on the flexibility of my non-riding boots to lever the shifter up from below. Now I'm taking my foot off the peg and hooking my boot under the shifter, using the inside of my foot to shift up. This takes a lot more work, is kinda sketchy (as my foot is closer to the ground), and harder to feel. What can I do to make this better? Do I try to adjust the pegs / shifter? Suck it up? Start riding in flip flops?
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Jul 13, 2020 20:28
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your shifter should be height adjustable. even my old 80s XR80 was height adjustable usually just a pinch bolt on the shifter where it attaches to the shaft that pokes out the tranny
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Jul 13, 2020 20:31
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My shifter shaft is splined so the foot lever can only be adjusted in spline increments, but yeah simple adjustment.
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Jul 13, 2020 20:32
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right arm posted:your shifter should be height adjustable. even my old 80s XR80 was height adjustable If you have a direct shifter yes. If you have a linkage shifter, you adjust the length of the rod by loosening the two locknuts and turning the rod; one of them is always reverse thread so have fun!
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Jul 13, 2020 20:33
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Slavvy posted:If you have a direct shifter yes. lol this reminds me of trying to pull my mirrors and wondering why the gently caress the right one came off just fine and the left one stuck (it is the opposite of the right)
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Jul 13, 2020 20:46
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How does one measure tread wear on tires that have no grooves in the center of the tread (where the wear is greatest)?
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Jul 15, 2020 21:27
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They have raised wear bars somewhere in the tread, they are like little recessed rectangles and when the tread wears to be even with them the tyre is hosed. Post a pic of you're not sure.
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Jul 15, 2020 22:13
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Most tires will have wear bars somewhere, even if it's not in the center of the tire, and when those are flush with the surface you replace the tire. e: 
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Jul 15, 2020 22:20
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This is one of the great things about just using a car tire. Cheaper and lasts way longer, plus the tread and wear bars are perpendicular to the road surface. This increases accuracy in tread measurement (and they last 5x as long!). edit: Jim please don't hurt me I'm so fragile.
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Jul 15, 2020 22:54
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Speaking of tires, what's the best street tire for a bike that will be strictly for the canyons? No commuting on it so I don't care about tire life, and I also won't be riding it in the rain. I had been thinking of getting the new version of the OEM tires from my other bike, Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP V3, but I can't find the V3s in 190/50/17 even though Pirelli says that's a size they make. I could go down to the V2s, but I feel like I'm probably better getting something newer since tire technology is so crazy. It also needs to perform in the cold and I've heard mixed things about the Supercorsas in the cold (I know for sure they're horrible if it's wet). I could just stick with Dunlop Q3+, I have those on my Daytona and I really like them, but it seemed like it may be worth trying out something new.
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Jul 15, 2020 23:00
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Basically all the modern big name sporty tyres are equally good and it is entirely a matter of personal preference and feel wrt how round/triangular they are, how stiff the carcass is and how those things interrelate with how you ride. If you like dunlops just get those.
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Jul 15, 2020 23:41
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Coydog posted:This is one of the great things about just using a car tire. Cheaper and lasts way longer, plus the tread and wear bars are perpendicular to the road surface. This increases accuracy in tread measurement (and they last 5x as long!).  
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Jul 16, 2020 00:21
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Coydog posted:This is one of the great things about just using a car tire. Cheaper and lasts way longer, plus the tread and wear bars are perpendicular to the road surface. This increases accuracy in tread measurement (and they last 5x as long!). Missed this. Reported.
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Jul 16, 2020 00:53
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But less tread depth gives me more contact patch 
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Jul 16, 2020 00:55
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kloa posted:But less tread depth gives me more contact patch You've also worn all all the good sticky stuff. I really like multi-compound tires. Good enough to go have fun on the weekends, but still lets you ride your fat-rear end VFR to work occasionally without penalizing you heavily.
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Jul 16, 2020 00:59
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
Me too. SM mode on the drz, 20k-mi to a front, and 10ish to a rear. The front would wear the sides down before the center lol.
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Jul 16, 2020 01:12
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