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KingMob posted:Cross-posting from the MCP thread: The black leather on the character on the left (I don't know superheroes) is amazing, great job.
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Aug 30, 2020 00:31
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Spanish Manlove posted:Indomitus Space Marine Attempt #1 Way cleaner looking and less gaudy than the demo one you showed before... Great job!
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Aug 30, 2020 00:59
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Spanish Manlove posted:So what do you guys think of the colors? The chainsword teeth really should be a different color.
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Aug 30, 2020 01:41
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:Way cleaner looking and less gaudy than the demo one you showed before... Great job! Thanks! I banged out the previous one in less than an hour total just to test out colors. This guy got the full force of effort where I actually paid attention to neatness. Definitely going to try free-hand more because it feels really cool to do even if it's just straight lines, the tau are going to get some effects on their sergeants.
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Aug 30, 2020 02:43
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Finished a Reanimator and a little guy today "don't talk to me or my Canoptek son ever again"   
AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 02:43
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Some more MCPs:  The Wakanda stuff is from a few months ago, Miles I did yesterday.
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Aug 30, 2020 06:00
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Crosspost!Iron Crowned posted:My Ironstars, came out looking more similar to the studio scheme than I planned. Grey rim is a placeholder until I figure out what I really want there
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Aug 30, 2020 20:51
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richyp posted:Some totally loyalist Tempestus Scions These look incredible. Total novice question, but what did you do/what tools did you use to remove the genestealer cult iconography from the neophytes?
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Aug 30, 2020 22:03
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   Archaon the Everchosen, Grand Marshal of the Apocalypse, Haver of Titles, Honorary Professor of Animal Husbandry, Eightpoints University. This is by far the largest thing I've ever painted, and I spent about 2.5 hours er day on it for the past two weeks. And I'm really satisfied with it!
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Aug 30, 2020 23:27
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    First ork boyz squad done! Lots of fun to paint but I’m ready to work on something a bit different.
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Aug 30, 2020 23:29
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Geisladisk posted:
Hell yeah that looks sick.
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Aug 31, 2020 00:03
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     Today I learned: my lightbooth is much too small for large models 
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Aug 31, 2020 00:50
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I am physically unable to use the same bit of iconography for any two adepta sororitas models, so here's a Bloody Rose Imagifier kit bashed with Junith's pulpit:  
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Aug 31, 2020 01:37
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You all wanna hear a funny story? So I went to Harbor Freight today and bought the compressor for the airbrush. I opened it up, and I found there was a little bag in the top insert that had two metal fittings in it, one of which fits onto the Patriot 105! Naturally, I found this out three days after I put in an order for a fitting to connect the airbrush, which is due to arrive tomorrow.  Uh, anyway, I was wondering if someone could point me towards a guide on how to actually use the airbrush. There are some things I'm not certain on, like whether I need to thin the primer, or how I use flow improver, how I clean the brush, and whatnot. I also realized I need some cleaning brushes, and I don't know what to get for those. Harbor Freight had some for sale for like $2, but they had metal handles, and I was told you shouldn't use anything metal in cleaning the brush, lest you damage the inside of the brush. I have a cleaning pot. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 31, 2020 01:41
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The guide in the OP in this thread is great, it's pretty much all you need with the videos linked. You usually don't need to thin primer as it's usually pre-thinned for airbrush use. Certain primers might need some to run smoothly. Badger black primer flows perfectly out of the bottle, while their white primer I add a few drops of flow improver to avoid dry tip setting on as fast.
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Aug 31, 2020 01:46
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Max Wilco posted:Uh, anyway, I was wondering if someone could point me towards a guide on how to actually use the airbrush. There are some things I'm not certain on, like whether I need to thin the primer, or how I use flow improver, how I clean the brush, and whatnot. Loosely speaking, a few things I've picked up over my first ~3 weeks so far: - You want to spray most stuff around 20psi. - Any time you change colors or anything, just give a little test spray on your (gloved) hand, just to make sure it's coming out as you expect - Your primer bottle should say; stylenrez says it doesn't need it (but I've done it and it seems to be OK) - "How to use flow improver" varies wildly from brand to brand. Vallejo Model Air will need a different amount than Citadel non-Air, which will need a different amount than Army Painter etc. The rule of thumb is "you want the consistency of skim milk" - Cleaning - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEIJs1c4bsQ this technique has served me very well so far. Honestly... Just youtube "mini airbrushing for beginners" and watch every video from every channel 
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Aug 31, 2020 01:57
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I got some more characters done! 
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Aug 31, 2020 02:32
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The one thing I did recently that's increased the quality of my airbrushing is pick up a big pack of 200 plastic party shot glasses for $18 (Canadian) and started mixing paint with thinner in them instead of in the airbrush cup. It's an annoying extra step, and means I have to use a bit more paint to account for how some of it is going to stick to the side of the shot glass instead of all going into the cup! It's also made me much, much better at judging the consistency of my paint mixes, which lets me do more subtle work.
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Aug 31, 2020 02:35
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Squidmar has a good airbrush beginner video and so does Miniac. Also Badger primer gives me dry tip all the time so I use flow improver for it even in black
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Aug 31, 2020 02:55
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Eej posted:Squidmar has a good airbrush beginner video and so does Miniac. I've seen Miniac's video, and I just watched Squidmar's video on it, but I'll probably rewatch them before I sit down and do anything. What I should probably do is take notes on the key things I need to remember to do. Honestly, at this point, I think I have most everything I need; I'm just scared to actually try and do it, because I'm worried I'll screw something up. Sab669 posted:Loosely speaking, a few things I've picked up over my first ~3 weeks so far: That cleaning video helps a lot. I found another video where they used that squeeze bottle, and after a quick search, it appears to be a 'lab bent tip' bottle. As a quick aside, I remember in one of the videos I watched, someone was pointing out things on a miniature with what looked like a hobby knife, but it had a rubber tip instead of blade. Does anyone know what that is? I've tried searching for it, but I can't seem to find it.
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Aug 31, 2020 03:43
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Max Wilco posted:As a quick aside, I remember in one of the videos I watched, someone was pointing out things on a miniature with what looked like a hobby knife, but it had a rubber tip instead of blade. Does anyone know what that is? I've tried searching for it, but I can't seem to find it. Not sure about the hobby-knife handle part, but was it maybe a clay-shaper? They're great for sculpting, and pushing around basing dirt and mud. You can get them in soft and stiff tips. 
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Aug 31, 2020 03:46
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Not sure about the hobby-knife handle part, but was it maybe a clay-shaper? They're great for sculpting, and pushing around basing dirt and mud. You can get them in soft and stiff tips. I think that was probably it, though I'm not entirely sure. If I see it again, I'll try to post a screenshot.
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Aug 31, 2020 03:48
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Crosspost from the 40K thread.JackMann posted:I painted up an assassin!
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Aug 31, 2020 06:06
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What was the good/meh/awful breakdown of contrast paints? I remember Guilliman Flesh, Blood Angels Red and Black Templar being good ones, but I don't know about the others...
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Aug 31, 2020 07:17
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I can vouch for apothecary white, skeleton horde, volopous pink, gyphhound charger, and black templar.
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Aug 31, 2020 07:41
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inscrutable horse posted:What was the good/meh/awful breakdown of contrast paints? I remember Guilliman Flesh, Blood Angels Red and Black Templar being good ones, but I don't know about the others... Skeleton horde is great for anything bone which there usually is a lot of; skulls, horns, etc. can also be used for purity seals. Snakebite leather is great for anything leather, basilicanum grey is great for all kinds of things, especially non-power swords, daggers and whatnot. Those are best ones imo other than the ones you mentioned. Talassar blue is kinda like blood angels red for blue. If you need a super-blue blue, then it’s good. People swear by painting nazdeg yellow and or ianden yellow over metal for an easy gold, but others say snakebite leather is the best for that. Ianden yellow is not bad for painting a warm bright orange yellow for cloth and stuff if you need that. People like wildwood for wood things, but Vallejos wood grain is far superior imo - though it is a brush destroyer.
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Aug 31, 2020 07:51
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Re: contrast, I really like Magos Purple as a pink-purple "unnatural" flesh tone for stuff like aberrations and demons.
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Aug 31, 2020 08:50
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Baku posted:Re: contrast, I really like Magos Purple as a pink-purple "unnatural" flesh tone for stuff like aberrations and demons. It’s also good for tongues.
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Aug 31, 2020 08:52
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Excellent, thanks everyone! Kinda feel like the list should be added to the OP
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Aug 31, 2020 10:07
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Skeleton Horde is the "if you only get one" one it's literally the best thing you can possibly ask for
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Aug 31, 2020 11:45
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JackMann posted:Crosspost from the 40K thread. I like her, she reminds of a power ranger and that's a good thing
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Aug 31, 2020 11:52
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inscrutable horse posted:What was the good/meh/awful breakdown of contrast paints? I remember Guilliman Flesh, Blood Angels Red and Black Templar being good ones, but I don't know about the others... Of the ones I've used: Darks: Black Templar - Very dark, makes for a good charcoal gray. Good out of the pot. Leviadon Blue - Very dark. I hesitate to call it good straight out of the pot, because it's subtle and needs highlights to enhance it. If you need an extremely dark blue, it's good. Shyish Purple - Very dark. It makes a good replacement for black, or if you need something to be very dark purple. It's probably not so great over metallics (I haven't tried) and if you want it to make a vibrant purple you'll need highlights for sure, but it does make a very good base for a rich, dark purple provided you've got some brighter highlights.  Browns: Skeleton Horde - Subdued color with a strong contrast effect. Amazing paint for anything that needs to be bone-colored, and it also makes an excellent pale skin tone for elves. Snakebite Leather - Vibrant color. It's like a more strongly pigmented version of Skeleton Horde. The lighter areas will take on a slightly orange or yellow-ish tinge. Guillman & Fyreslayer Flesh - Guilliman is slightly pinker, Fyreslayer is slightly more brown. I have difficulty telling them apart at a glance but Fyreslayer can make an excellent dark skin tone if you put on two layers. Colors: Blood Angels Red - Vibrant color. It's a bright red, the contrast effect is subtle. It's good. Talassar Blue - Vibrant color. It's a bright blue, the contrast effect is subtle. Calling it 'vibrant' might be an understatement, it's very strongly pigmented but will also probably need some sort of highlight. Volupus Pink - Vibrant color. It's a bright pink when painted over white, but it's a difficult pink to explain, it's got a subtle yet noticeable purple tinge. It's probably closer to a magenta than a pink. If you paint it over gray metallic it darkens to a nice byzantine purple Orc Flesh - Vibrant color. It's a bright green, the contrast effect is strong. It's good, but a bit cartoony. Creed Camo - Muted color. It's a medium-dark green. I like it for orc skin. If you put on two layers it makes a very nice dark green. Don't paint it over Orc Flesh or vice-versa, Orc Flesh completely overpowers it. Plaguebearer Flesh - Difficult to explain. I was hoping this would be a subtle color, like the the green version of Skeleton Horde. It's not, it's far more yellow than green, and looks like liver bile. It makes an excellent skin color for Githyanki but I think I'll personally struggle to find a use for it otherwise. If you're not sure on which contrast paints to start with, I'd recommend any of the browns. They've given me consistently good results. Of the paints I've used I'd hesitate to call any of them outright bad; but Leviadon Blue, Shyish Purple, and Plaguebearer Flesh all have specific niches. If you need what they do, they're great. If you don't, you may struggle to find a way to use them.
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Aug 31, 2020 11:53
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The youtube channel tabletop minions has a good video summing up their thoughts on contrast and they align perfectly with your thoughts - black, white, and anything brown or beige is basically god-tier for contrast. I have only tried black and white but they both work REALLY well, i will probably pick up snakebite leather pretty soon
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Aug 31, 2020 12:00
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Finally working on these. I've stayed away from them because I didn't want to just basecoat, wash and drybrush. I am thinking of picking out details with a toothpick but also maybe backing off and repriming white and then using washes to build up blues. Whoever sculpted and cast these was/is insane.
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Aug 31, 2020 13:35
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Do not use a tooth pick. The point of a decent size 1 brush will be smaller and can actually hold paint.
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Aug 31, 2020 13:40
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NC Wyeth Death Cult posted:Finally working on these. I've stayed away from them because I didn't want to just basecoat, wash and drybrush. I am thinking of picking out details with a toothpick but also maybe backing off and repriming white and then using washes to build up blues. Whoever sculpted and cast these was/is insane. what are these? yeah dont use a toothpick. i use a high quality 000 or 00 for painting details on 10mm. there are smaller brushes but the paint dries too quickly
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Aug 31, 2020 14:24
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Iyanden Yellow over Wraithbone is like magic.
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Aug 31, 2020 14:25
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Nebalebadingdong posted:what are these? Fan made 6mm Thousand Sons for Epic 40k. The detail on them is amazing. Usually fan mades don't make it out of the closed circle of the hobbyist forums but for a second there people were posting them to FB groups because they could go for a mint. I couldn't figure out where to get more if I tried. Gravitas Shortfall posted:Iyanden Yellow over Wraithbone is like magic. For their headpieces, I was thinking about using a small brush and lightly dry brushing white and then the yellow. NC Wyeth Death Cult fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 31, 2020 14:32
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greenstuff sculpting continues. i sculpted grass around the outside of the minis before i put them on the base:  not totally happy with it yet, but i think it can work. the biggest frustration with warmaster is that i am forced to paint the minis completely separate from the base, and then once applied, the middle of the base is inaccessible for painting/sculpting litko lets you order custom base sizes, so i have ordered "half" bases in the size of the mini strips. that way i can glue 'em, sculpt 'em, then paint 'em like a normal mini and then just stick the bases together at the end, seal the crack and paint the rim
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Aug 31, 2020 15:53
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I spent way too long on this, but it's my first Thousand Sons model and I was experimenting a bit. I sprayed Army Painter Gunmetal and then tried a zenithal with Army Painter Plate Mail, but the Plate Mail wasn't bright enough so I had to highlight the areas I wanted super bright blue with Citadel Stormhost Silver before applying Talassar Blue. I'm going to work a little more on the staff and base. I think I'm happy with the color scheme, I'd just like to add a bit of pink here and there to really get the unsettling appearance of these going, and some gradients but I'm not confident enough to do that yet. Do the silver edges work well? Not sure if I should stick with traditional gold for the rest of the squad.
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Aug 31, 2020 15:59
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