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Does anyone have a preferred surface to print on for PETG? I am getting good prints with plain glass with glue stick, but I got the creality glass bed with texture recently and I like it on my Ender 3, but I was thinking about a new surface for my other printer which I mostly use for PETG and ABS that would hold well without adding an interface layer.
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Sep 28, 2020 10:36
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Rexxed posted:Does anyone have a preferred surface to print on for PETG? I am getting good prints with plain glass with glue stick, but I got the creality glass bed with texture recently and I like it on my Ender 3, but I was thinking about a new surface for my other printer which I mostly use for PETG and ABS that would hold well without adding an interface layer. I just started using PETG and I've read that it can damage glass beds so I've just stuck to the blue painter's tape.
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Sep 28, 2020 11:04
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Attempting to make a part that is also difficult to make with simple 3-axis milling machines (holes at compound angles relative to the shape of the part).    And the preview here isn't how I'm going to slice it (I'm going to want at least a 7mm thick shell everywhere), but this is to show the way the holes go from the center out to the slots: 
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Sep 28, 2020 11:06
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Maigius posted:What are some good filament brands that have a shorter delivery window than Prusament? Asked for some for my birthday, and my parents need recommendations. I got my Prusament (in the states) within a few days. They sent DHL international tracked. MatterHackers website also sends very quickly and they are in CA. I haven't actually used it yet, but I got their MatterHackers Pro brand that's supposed to be as good as Prusament.
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Sep 28, 2020 11:46
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I've had a sour taste about everything Matterhackers after their bullshit slicer (MatterControl).
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Sep 28, 2020 12:57
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biracial bear for uncut posted:
Oooh, can I try that with my high-performance stuff?
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Sep 28, 2020 14:18
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insta posted:Oooh, can I try that with my high-performance stuff? Sure, it's a .3mf file because I couldn't get the .STL export to make the outer radius smooth enough for production purposes (kept having a faceted appearance even with settings all the way to the Detailed end). Email or what? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 14:30
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:I’ve been using Atomic and like it. I can tell it’s definitely better than run of the mill whatever generic brand. More consistent color and extrusions I"m a big fan of Atomic, as they're both american, and ~really freaking care~ about the product they make. And the guy behind atomic is available on IRC....
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Sep 28, 2020 14:33
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That atomic filament looks super neat. Of course now I'm looking at tool steel nozzles for some carbon fiber printing for my Prusa Mini which hasn't even shipped yet.
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Sep 28, 2020 15:04
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Is the Nozzle-X nozzle by E3D as good as it claims with regard to the filament not sticking to it?
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Sep 28, 2020 15:06
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Is the Nozzle-X nozzle by E3D as good as it claims with regard to the filament not sticking to it? In my experience yes. It cleans off nicely on a print failure, but the real advantage is that it leaves heavily extruded solid layers a bit smoother. It's also only marginally more expensive than a normal steel nozzle, so it's worth getting anyways. No downside except it costs like $3 more. e: and if you're troubleshooting high end filaments and dealing with all the shenanigans that come with that, it's certainly nice.
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Sep 28, 2020 16:19
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Hypnolobster posted:In my experience yes. It cleans off nicely on a print failure, but the real advantage is that it leaves heavily extruded solid layers a bit smoother. It's also only marginally more expensive than a normal steel nozzle, so it's worth getting anyways. No downside except it costs like $3 more. I impulse ordered one Friday and it should be delivered Tuesday (along with a photo booth/box that I'm going to put the whole thing in to limit draft/sudden temperature changes from getting to it), was mainly wanting to make sure I didn't waste the money before opening the package tomorrow.
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Sep 28, 2020 16:32
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gently caress, these silk filaments string like a motherfucker, for the most part. I'm having traumatic flashbacks to trying to print PETG fan ducts. People say you shouldn't need more than 2mm retraction (or even less, especially for direct drive), but the X1 has a Volcano style hot end and for ages I ran like 6mm with no ill effects that I could detect.. the melt zone is 20mm long, after all.. Does anyone have any recommended settings for silky filaments and other really oozy stuff? I've found the bottom end of the temp range where it's not extruding right but as soon as I'm back in the correct range 2 out of the 4 colours string again. I've got coasting on already and have just tweaked the settings, will try some more test prints tomorrow...
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Sep 28, 2020 17:17
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Coasting & Wiping at the same time may help.
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Sep 28, 2020 17:21
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One thing you might want to try, which I discovered purely by accident, is a sacrificial support - chuck a single support on the outer skin and across any gaps and the slicer will preferentially use that for changes of layer or skips so the stringing is all from that, which you can pull off and throw away.
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Sep 28, 2020 19:17
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Is the Nozzle-X nozzle by E3D as good as it claims with regard to the filament not sticking to it? Yes. Even PETG doesn't stick to it.
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Sep 28, 2020 19:24
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That's a neat idea: using a support to bias how the slicer chooses to do things. I like it.
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Sep 28, 2020 19:25
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It makes sense, the slicer can only do the math, not determine what looks good.
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Sep 28, 2020 19:43
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Seconding Jessie PLA, have numerous spools of various colors and they all come out looking really nice. For ordering off of Amazon, the Amazon basics PETG is hit/miss and Overture PLA has been decent. Edit: Woah, a lot of posts before I hit submit.
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Sep 28, 2020 21:23
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Do y'all think roughing up a glass bed with sandpaper would improve adhesion enough where I wouldn't have to bother with glue or tape? I just use a $2 pane of picture frame glass so it's not big deal if I ruin it and I can always just flip it over. Also has anyone problems with PETG adhering too firmly to glass or damaging it as I have read? edit: Hell, I'm just gonna give it a try. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 21:29
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Sure, it's a .3mf file because I couldn't get the .STL export to make the outer radius smooth enough for production purposes (kept having a faceted appearance even with settings all the way to the Detailed end). Forum name at pingring dot ORG is this for work? can we chat about requirements via email?
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Sep 28, 2020 21:37
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PETG is a sticky filament that bonds quite tightly to most substrates. I have ripped chunks of glass out of glass beds a few times before, but I don't recall whether it was with PETG. It may have been ABS + white glue. No idea if sanding the glass would make it work better or worse. The best substrate for PETG is PEI on a flexible plate, sprayed with Windex. The tiny bit of soap left behind from the glass cleaner serves as an interface layer and prevents it from bonding too strongly. It can still be a challenge if you're trying to print something that has a lot of surface area (e.g. takes up the entire bed). In that case you may want to use a glue stick or pull some clever geometry trick that reduces the surface area (take a close look at the Prusa STLs and see if you can figure it out). Also, because PETG is so sticky, it can help to actually increase your first layer gap by perhaps 0.2mm above what you usually use. The plastic will still adhere well to the bed, but the reduced squish prevents it from sticking to the nozzle and getting pulled up, which is the most common type of first-layer failure with PET in my experience. The most dangerous combination is flexible elastomer (NinjaFlex, etc) on PEI. It basically just fuses together, and flexing the bed doesn't help because the part is also flexible. You will destroy the bed trying to remove that part. You must always use a layer of glue as an interface when printing that combination. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 21:40
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Sagebrush posted:PETG is a sticky filament that bonds quite tightly to most substrates. I have ripped chunks of glass out of glass beds a few times before, but I don't recall whether it was with PETG. These are similar to the reports I've read so it was most definitely PETG. I meant to add that I was going to rough up the glass for use with filaments other than PETG. (PLA, ABS, TPU) I've had good luck with PETG on blue tape so far and I don't think I'd ever print PETG without it or something in between it and the glass. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 21:47
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goddamnedtwisto posted:One thing you might want to try, which I discovered purely by accident, is a sacrificial support - chuck a single support on the outer skin and across any gaps and the slicer will preferentially use that for changes of layer or skips so the stringing is all from that, which you can pull off and throw away. isn't this the same thing as a priming tower? or am I misunderstanding?
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Sep 28, 2020 21:59
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:isn't this the same thing as a priming tower? or am I misunderstanding? I don't think so (having only come across the term right now and googled it) - a priming tower seems to be something for when a dual-nozzle printer has to change nozzles, to get the filament flowing in the second nozzle - basically like a 3d version of the skirt/brim on the first layer. This is just an ordinary support that you'd normally use for overhangs, attached to the outer skin and bridging between any parts that aren't in contact, so instead of stopping feeding filament when it switches between components or levels, it can just keep feeding it into the support. I did it accidentally first time but now it's my standard trick when I'm feeling too lazy to heat-gun the spiders webs off and/or sand them down (or where the design makes either tricky). As long as you make sure the support is perpendicular/tangential to the part it just pulls off completely cleanly. I'm sure, with all of my one month experience, that I'm not the first one to come up with this idea, and it probably has a much cooler name.
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Sep 29, 2020 00:58
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insta posted:Forum name at pingring dot ORG Object sent. I just think its a good subject model for printing in high warp materials.
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Sep 29, 2020 01:10
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goddamnedtwisto posted:One thing you might want to try, which I discovered purely by accident, is a sacrificial support - chuck a single support on the outer skin and across any gaps and the slicer will preferentially use that for changes of layer or skips so the stringing is all from that, which you can pull off and throw away. biracial bear for uncut posted:Coasting & Wiping at the same time may help. Hmm, will see how this morning’s test goes and if no joy then I might have to play with these. I have a part I need to print which is a worst case scenario for stringing, there are four features which get smaller as they get taller and it has to jump between them, the model basically becomes a stringing test piece. EDIT: those retraction settings plus more aggressive coast settings (I guess Cura’s defaults are based on non-Volcano hot ends) have significantly improved things, I can probably live with how it is now. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 01:41
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Sagebrush posted:The most dangerous combination is flexible elastomer (NinjaFlex, etc) on PEI. It basically just fuses together, and flexing the bed doesn't help because the part is also flexible. You will destroy the bed trying to remove that part. You must always use a layer of glue as an interface when printing that combination. You just saved me a print bed.
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Sep 29, 2020 05:30
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I will say this, the TPU I got from filaments.ca did that, but their "TPE" (same thing but softer) didn't stick at all. Bizarre
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Sep 29, 2020 05:57
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Anyone in the UK after filament recommendations I'll throw in 3DQF, I've used half a dozen of their rolls now with no material issues, from £15-17 per roll shipped, plus they're now on 100% cardboard rolls if you care about that sort of thing. They sell out quick but I basically grab a roll at a time as there's no shipping penalties as and when it's available.
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Sep 29, 2020 06:12
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Is there a diff between TPU and PETG?
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Sep 29, 2020 09:35
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My understanding is that TPU is significantly more flexible than PETG.
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Sep 29, 2020 09:54
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TPU feels like thin rubber or slightly rigid silicone. It’s flexible, but not enough to lose its shape or be squished as easily as silicone. It’s also a giant pain to work with. PETG is basically hardier PLA. A little more rigid and brittle but with a higher heat tolerance.
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Sep 29, 2020 10:15
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Is there a diff between TPU and PETG? You can do stuff like this with TPU https://imgur.com/gallery/acxyLFh
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Sep 29, 2020 11:08
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Is there a diff between TPU and PETG? PETG is the stuff soda bottles are made out of, TPU is the stuff certain grades of gaskets and o-rings are made out of. The funny part here is that in either case FDM would have a difficult time printing either of those examples in the materials listed (except maybe flat-outline gaskets).
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Sep 29, 2020 11:26
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It's important to know that a lot of TPU is not soft and grippy like a rubber or silicone and would not make good seals, gaskets, or useful tires. You have to pay attention to the Shore Hardness. I wanted to play around with TPU but all I have is a printer with a Bowden extruder so 95A is probably all it could reliably print. You can flex and bend the finished print a lot but it's not useful for what I would want to do with it. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 12:16
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TPU makes good gaskets and seals. I often see people make replacement parts using it. TPU is a thermoplastic rubber, for all intents and purposes. It comes in several durometers (hardnesses) It's also resistant to almost every solvent, so it's good with gasoline, acetone, and other nasties! (Previous poster.. we could discuss your troubles..) Most commonly TPU is used for flexible fittings, and for shock absorbing situations. Think camera and phone cases. PETG is another thermoplastic, like PLA, Nylon, ASA, PLA+, or ABS. PETG is "really sticky" so bonds with itself really well, and is very tough. Tough means it will plasticly deform instead of fracture like PLA tends to do. PETG also has a higher glass transition temperature, so stays the shape you printed it, at higher temperatures.
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Sep 29, 2020 12:46
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Nerobro posted:TPU makes good gaskets and seals. I often see people make replacement parts using it. I was editing while you posted but all I tried was 95A which is the least TPU-like, I think. My printer has a Bowden extruder and I figured anything softer would be like pushing thread. It's only a 200g spool to play with so it's no big loss. In my mind, the result would've been kind of like glue from a hotglue gun with some grippiness and squishiness because the filament on the spool feels kind of like a thinner hot-melt glue. Could I replicate what I'm going for with high infill (95%+) and no external shells? Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 12:49
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*sigh* my very non technical but smart friend just got a 3d printer so I have become his personal tech support for all his issues. He got a second hand creality ender 3 from someone and it mostly works but he's starting to go through all the normal beginner 3d printing issues. I keep telling him to buy a Prusa already, I give him a week before he breaks down and buys one lol
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Sep 29, 2020 14:45
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TPU is "thermoplastic polyurethane." Most flexible filaments are TPU but not all are. The astute reader will recognize that polyurethane is a thermoset, and thus cannot be melt-extruded. TPU is a special blend of multiple kinds of thermoset polyurethanes with different properties that form cross-links when cooled. The cross-links weaken and soften the material at high temperatures, like a true thermoplastic. A more appropriate term for flexible filaments in general is TPE, thermoplastic elastomer. This includes styrene and butadiene rubbers, polychloroprenes, some grades of vinyl rubbers, and the like. Big Mean Jerk posted:PETG is basically hardier PLA. A little more rigid and brittle but with a higher heat tolerance. PET is actually softer and less brittle than PLA. It does have a higher heat tolerance, though.
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Sep 30, 2020 00:30
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