spunkshui posted:
Hey awesome. I think I like this one even better.
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Sep 28, 2020 17:33
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sean10mm posted:Look at one of the B550 mATX boards like the MSI B550M Bazooka or Gigabyte B550M Aorus Pro, they've kind of taken the place of the B450 Tomahawk MAX as our generic suggestion now. Going to the 550's seems to be pushing the price point up a bit beyond budget (going by UK retailers), is there anything super important on them that would be lost by going 450? Thanks for the input btw.
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Sep 28, 2020 17:56
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Quote posted:Hey awesome. I think I like this one even better. That 4000X has almost zero ventilation -- look at the tiny gap between the glass and case on the front panel. The 3 RGB fans on the front are completely useless. The 465X is mildly better, but still worse than cases that have been specifically engineered for a quiet closed front panel (like the bequiet 500 posted upthread) rather than glass and RGB. In corsair's RGB line the 4000D Airflow would be better. But honestly IMO corsair just isn't doing a great job with anything other than RGB on their cases these days. Do you specifically want a lot of RGB, or just a white case?
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Sep 28, 2020 18:05
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It's about the white for me.
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Sep 28, 2020 18:15
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Klyith posted:That 4000X has almost zero ventilation -- look at the tiny gap between the glass and case on the front panel. The 3 RGB fans on the front are completely useless. The 465X is mildly better, but still worse than cases that have been specifically engineered for a quiet closed front panel (like the bequiet 500 posted upthread) rather than glass and RGB. I have the 465X and with 6 fans the idea that it has airflow issues is completely absurd. Currently its driving case RPMs off mobo temps and we can keep an i5 9600k @5ghz on air under 80C indefinitely in a 77F house. Fans range from 750 rpm at mobo 35C and 1100rpm at mobo 45C which is where its stops climbing the fan curve (LL 120 fans go up to 1500 rpm) Fans that react to temperature is the best way to get silence. Hot tip if you get cosair LL fans, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-...la-648319115441 Then you can drive all the fans RPMS off one mobo header. Just make sure to plug the header of the mobo into the correct plug on the fan hub the to read RPM correctly. There are other options online for fan hubs this is just the one we picked. We might move her fan header from the mobo to her GPU because the ROG 3080 has the ability to control fans. I cant claim to have worked with the 4000 series case personally and im sure its worse airflow then when you remove the glass and dust filter but if you just have case fans react to temps you can cool anything and have total silence while working.
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Sep 28, 2020 18:30
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Quote posted:It's about the white for me. Have you seen the Pure Base 500DX? It's actually a good deal because it comes with two Be Quiet fans.
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Sep 28, 2020 18:50
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Quote posted:It's about the white for me. In that case the 2 I'd point to: •Fractal Meshify C in white -- this is the amlost the default case ITT. Fractal has great build quality and it's a nice compact case. Downsides: no front usb C (the C in the name is "compact"), and you should add another 140mm front fan to the purchase price. • The bequiet Thom P. Tiers linked The Meshify has a mesh front panel, which is great for airflow and results in less noise while gaming or doing other heavy loads that work the CPU & GPU. They can spin fans slower because things will be cooler. But when the system is idle they let the (quiet but audible) woosh of low-speed fans out. The bequiet is a closed front. They sacrifice airflow for sound damping, and can be near-silent at idle. But while gaming or whatnot they will be hotter and a bit louder. ^^^ edit: oh hey I didn't know they made the 500DX in white! That's a very good alternative to the Meshify C. spunkshui posted:I have the 465X and with 6 fans the idea that it has airflow issues is completely absurd. Having 6 fans is an airflow issue, that's being solved with more fans. PWM fans and good fan curves are the way to get quiet, but all cases can do that. A case with excellent ventilation (ie mesh front) can have fewer fans spinning slower, resulting in less noise. Glass is 100% a valid choice, but it's also 100% about aesthetic. You have less ventilation, and you don't have the sound-damping materials that non-glass panels have on most every midrange case.
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Sep 28, 2020 18:54
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Shannow posted:Going to the 550's seems to be pushing the price point up a bit beyond budget (going by UK retailers), is there anything super important on them that would be lost by going 450? PCIe 4.0, proper Zen 3 support instead of "maybe in beta BIOS if we get around to it for your model" and generally better specs. Like compared to a B450 Tomahawk MAX, the B550M Pro-VDH has the same VRM performance, PCie 4.0, unconditional Zen3 support instead of "yeah sure whenever we get around to it", bluetooth and wifi for basically the same price.
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Sep 28, 2020 18:57
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Klyith posted:Having 6 fans is an airflow issue, that's being solved with more fans. I would never leave an empty fan slot in a case. 700-800 rpms is dead silent glass or no glass. Her ram, gpu and cpu are all overclocked and over volted. It doesn’t have cooling issues. The glass is like four or five times farther off the front of the computer than Walmarts case. Like I can shove my entire thumb in between the front of the computer and the glass and not be touching either. The last case it was in was ugly bullshit with no filters and a ton of fans and the temps are the same under load. Im actually really into cooling. Like too much lol. Edit: clarifying her case is not the 4000, but the 465x. Still corsair has been making reasonable glass cases lately. Not like that Walmart joke case. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 19:26
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Mu Zeta posted:Have you seen the Pure Base 500DX? It's actually a good deal because it comes with two Be Quiet fans. Ay caramba that's a beauty. I really like the monolithic columns on the front. Thanks everyone for recommendations. Here's the new build: edit: Ignore I am an idiot. Quote fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 19:28
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Quote posted:Ay caramba that's a beauty. I really like the monolithic columns on the front. Thanks everyone for recommendations. The “node core” on the case only controls the RGB of the fans but every single fan needs to have power. You might need to get some splitters to run all of the fans off of your mobo or a PWM fan hub if you want to run all of them off one header. I stick to two fans per header on the motherboard without a hub. If you end up going with a case that isn’t corsair make sure you buy a three pack of fans that comes with the “node core” which can control six RGB corsair proprietary items like fans or corsair strips.
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Sep 28, 2020 19:43
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spunkshui posted:The “node core” on the case only controls the RGB of the fans but every single fan needs to have power. poo poo I thought I removed those Corsair fans. Sorry for the confusion! e: I did remove them but I pulled the BB code from an old browser tab  That's why the loving case is wrong lol.Here it is really: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.09 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus PRIME B550M-A (WI-FI) Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($85.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($208.53 @ Walmart) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.97 @ Newegg) Monitor: Gigabyte G27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor Total: $863.56 Quote fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 19:50
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m.hache posted:Here's the build I'm zoning in on. Not to resurrect this, but any major concerns with this? RAM shows up on QVL as far as I can tell. Not sure if the power supply is an issue (I recall there being a problem with certain corsair models years ago) and I'm not sure whether I should be considering a B550 board or the x570s.
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Sep 28, 2020 19:55
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If you're spending that much might as well get a Noctua u14s cooler as well. And 2x140mm fans and a 120mm fan.
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Sep 28, 2020 21:06
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Quote posted:poo poo I thought I removed those Corsair fans. Sorry for the confusion! Gigabyte G27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor Frame Sync: FreeSync Premium Is that going to work as well as a g sync display since you are going for a 3080?
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Sep 28, 2020 21:20
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spunkshui posted:Gigabyte G27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor Probably not AS WELL, no, but I'm really just shooting for locked 100+ FPS and I think the FreeSync can handle that just fine. Or am I off base? e: to be clear I already own this monitor and I like it a lot.
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Sep 28, 2020 22:22
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Unless that specific monitor has some issue it should be fine. You'll just have to make sure you're using DP.
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Sep 28, 2020 22:26
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Some Goon posted:Unless that specific monitor has some issue it should be fine. You'll just have to make sure you're using DP. Yes I've got a DisplayPort cable sitting nicely in its plastic waiting for a better video card than the one the monitor is attached to now.
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Sep 28, 2020 22:35
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Quote posted:Probably not AS WELL, no, but I'm really just shooting for locked 100+ FPS and I think the FreeSync can handle that just fine. Or am I off base? Oh then never mind it will work fine, it might even be "g-sync compatible" . I was literally just asking questions because if you drop cash on a 3080 it makes sense to research a new display with all these fancy display techs.
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Sep 28, 2020 22:41
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Well, looks like I just missed a bit of FanChat, but if I can maybe ask a couple questions here . . . My wife and I both have this case (mostly, hers is the previous-generation model in white that NewEgg won't let me link to anymore): https://www.newegg.com/black-cooler-master-trooper-se-atx-full-tower/p/N82E16811119333?Item=N82E16811119333 It turns out that the 200mm fans in these cases weren't of the highest build quality; I want to say her case is like 2 years old and mine is 1.5 - my fan has seized completely and hers is making some noise that suggests the end is near. It looks like the case claims it can either do 1x200mm or 2x140mm on the top of the case: 1). Which solution would provide more airflow overall? (I assume 2x140mm but Fan Math is weird sometimes) 2). Any particular brand of fan recommended? Bearing type? I'm not opposed to colored lights; my case is vomiting out green and hers blue light Noise is really no object here; I'm mostly interested in thermals since I do a lot of folding@home and I'm trying to get her into it a bit as well.
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Sep 28, 2020 23:03
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Glad we're on cooling chat. Just installed Cooler Master Hyper 212 on my Ryzen 3600 in a Fractal Define 7 C. Last night it was down in the 40sC at idle, 70ish during Prime95. Today I tried just monitoring it and it hung out at 65C all day, which is better than 70 but still. At lunch I turned all my fans on to max and it still hung out at 65C. Tried taking the side and front panels off to see if airflow was the problem, no change. So what gives? I've also noticed that Ryzen Master reports that it's at like 4ghz/1.4ishv ALL THE TIME, even on balanced power mode (windows and Ryzen) and with the "eco" mode in Ryzen Master on. I have a 140mm noctua and a 120mm PWM that came with the fan on front, and a 120mm PWM on the back. If anything it's now louder than before since I have the big honking cooler running pretty high on its curve.
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Sep 28, 2020 23:58
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Zarin posted:Well, looks like I just missed a bit of FanChat, but if I can maybe ask a couple questions here . . . A lot of the choices are going to have varying speeds and CFM levels that will make which choice has more airflow into a bit of a "it depends" answer. For example: 200mm 76 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/AeroCool-Silent-Master-200mm-Blue/dp/B009XERK6G/ 200mm 110 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-F200SP_BBK-200mm-Premier-Blades/dp/B016NHSB4U/ 200mm 129 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Thermaltake-200x30mm-Anti-Vibration-Mounting-CL-F015-PL20BL/dp/B00J0NZFIA/ 140mm 81 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-F200SP_BBK-200mm-Premier-Blades/dp/B016NHSB4U/ 140mm 58 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Kingwin-CF-014LB-Efficient-Excellent-Ventilation/dp/B014PXH2U8/ There's also fan controllers to vary fan speeds that should be accounted for. The "silent" fans are usually low RPM and lower CFM but you mostly leave them at 100% speed and won't hear them, whereas some of the faster ones are more audible when cranked up. I'm not going to recommend a specific configuration but I do own the 200mm and 140mm phanteks fans listed. For top fans you generally have them blow out so it's not quite as important as front fans or side fans which are usually intake fans. You may have a different airflow configuration and that's fine if it works for you. The advantage of 200mm is that they can move more slowly and make less noise. In my phanteks enthoo pro case I used a 200mm on the front, 140mm on the bottom, 140x2 on the cooler, and 140mm on the back. It was barely audible and the GPU fans were the most noticeable when they'd ramp up. I went for positive air pressure with the back fan being the only out fan and it worked well for me. I also have some Cooler master, Scythe, and Noctua fans with the latter two brands being higher end. As far as bearings are concerned I was always told that sleeve bearings will die quickly when run horizontal so ball bearing or maybe one of the new magnetic bearings would be better for a horizontal fan. They cost more but won't get noisy and die in a couple of years.
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Sep 29, 2020 00:03
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Zarin posted:Well, looks like I just missed a bit of FanChat, but if I can maybe ask a couple questions here . . . I would do 3x140mm front 1x140mm rear and ignore the top, but that's just me. Stock fans are 1200 RPM so if you don't care about noise you could easily move to 1500 RPM fans all around to move more air.
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Sep 29, 2020 00:08
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Zarin posted:It turns out that the 200mm fans in these cases weren't of the highest build quality; I want to say her case is like 2 years old and mine is 1.5 - my fan has seized completely and hers is making some noise that suggests the end is near. 1. It's really hard to know which fan setup would be more airflow. In a free air situation I think a single 200mm fan would have more CFM than 2 140mm fans of similar noise level -- fans really like bigger blades. But the 200mm fan will be spinning slower and so will have less static pressure. The 200mm fan goes on the top where the case has a bunch of plastic greebles -- how much do you estimate that stuff actually impedes airflow? It's hard to tell from pictures. If they leave plenty of free space, a 200mm might be better, but honestly it's probably a coin flip. (Also this picture very much looks like there's a dust fliter on that top fan mount -- where I'd normally expect to have a fan as exhaust. Dust filters on an exhaust fan don't do anything except add air resistance. So when you put new fans in, mount them as exhaust and just remove the filter.) 2. Noctua fans are the best premium fan you can get if you want to avoid them dying again. They make a 200mm fan, but it's out of stock on amazon and not sold by newegg. The rest of the 200mm fans on newegg seem kinda meh. So that might push you to 2x 140mm where you can get good stuff. I'd get this version if these will plug into a PWM mobo port, or this one if they are not on a fan controller and just run at 100%. edit: Rexxed posted:As far as bearings are concerned I was always told that sleeve bearings will die quickly when run horizontal so ball bearing or maybe one of the new magnetic bearings would be better for a horizontal fan. They cost more but won't get noisy and die in a couple of years. Klyith fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 00:10
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tuyop posted:Glad we're on cooling chat. Just installed Cooler Master Hyper 212 on my Ryzen 3600 in a Fractal Define 7 C. Last night it was down in the 40sC at idle, 70ish during Prime95. Today I tried just monitoring it and it hung out at 65C all day, which is better than 70 but still. At lunch I turned all my fans on to max and it still hung out at 65C. Tried taking the side and front panels off to see if airflow was the problem, no change. Mounting pressure maybe? You cpu might have been doing something like a windows update but not all day.
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Sep 29, 2020 00:19
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spunkshui posted:Mounting pressure maybe? Huh, might have been that. Might have also been the orientation. Or both! I just pulled the thing off, swapped out the paste, tightened the bracket a bit and tinkered with the mount to get it rotated 90 degrees so that the fan was in line with the intake and exhaust. Now we've got averages below 40C and mysteriously the clock speed of the CPU is like, sane now with like 700mhz/.9v much more common if I glance over to Ryzen Master. Edit: I spoke too soon, we're back up to 4ghz/1.43v 60C forever. I'm just sitting here putting Word docs into a certain folder, hardly folding proteins. Thanks for your help! Now we take a break from computer surgery until those loving antenna bits come this week. Edit2: This behaviour is so weird. 
tuyop fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 01:45
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Rexxed posted:There's also fan controllers to vary fan speeds that should be accounted for. The "silent" fans are usually low RPM and lower CFM but you mostly leave them at 100% speed and won't hear them, whereas some of the faster ones are more audible when cranked up. Ah okay, so CFM is what I'm looking for here. I guess I should have known that, but somehow I didn't, so thanks! The case does have a fan controller, and I think some of the fans are plugged into it by default. I'm not sure about all of them, though; I guess I should try and figure that out. I've never actually really paid too much attention to my case fans, tbh; a large gap in my computer-building resume, perhaps. sean10mm posted:I would do 3x140mm front 1x140mm rear and ignore the top, but that's just me. Stock fans are 1200 RPM so if you don't care about noise you could easily move to 1500 RPM fans all around to move more air.  Klyith posted:(Also this picture very much looks like there's a dust fliter on that top fan mount -- where I'd normally expect to have a fan as exhaust. Dust filters on an exhaust fan don't do anything except add air resistance. So when you put new fans in, mount them as exhaust and just remove the filter.) Yeah, I think there is a dust filter on the top. Good point, I should probably remove that. I did feel like NewEgg's selection was kinda limited, but I wasn't sure where else to go since I haven't really had to go anywhere else but them. I guess they've kinda fallen off in quality, though, so I should be expanding my etailer horizons. -------------------------------------------- Guess I need to do some reading about fan controllers and look at some 140mm fans. Thanks everyone! I'm assuming positive pressure is the way to go, in order to help control dust? (I used to be a Negative Pressure kinda guy until someone pointed out that's why every nook and cranny of my PC was dusty as hell) Edit: I read through all the links posted by you guys, thanks! One thing I did notice is that it's a bit harder to figure out on the Amazon fans what the bearing type is. Still, I'm sure I can figure that out via research when I am ready to sit down and pull the trigger after I decide how many I am gonna go for, and whether I'm going to plug them into the case fan controller or motherboard. How many fans can I get away with daisy-chaining together, by chance? I assume it's based on amp draw? Zarin fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 05:10
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tuyop posted:Edit: I spoke too soon, we're back up to 4ghz/1.43v 60C forever. I'm just sitting here putting Word docs into a certain folder, hardly folding proteins. Zarin posted:I did feel like NewEgg's selection was kinda limited, but I wasn't sure where else to go since I haven't really had to go anywhere else but them. I guess they've kinda fallen off in quality, though, so I should be expanding my etailer horizons. Newegg themselves are still ok, but they added all these 3rd party sellers that are extremely variable. Some are quality manufacturers doing direct ship -- bequiet, FSP, and other OEMs have stuff on newegg and that's fine. But some are chinese companies shipping from asia, and some are random lovely bottom barrel amazon trash. The problem is when a 3rd party seller fucks up, newegg does not have your back nearly as much as amazon. Zarin posted:Guess I need to do some reading about fan controllers and look at some 140mm fans. Thanks everyone! Dust prevention is positive or balanced pressure + intake fans behind dust filters that get cleaned regularly + having a clean house (and the 3rd one is the most effective). That case is weird, it's got a lot of options and I'm not sure what's the best. Depends a lot on where the case is, carpet or hard floor, against furniture, etc. The one thing I'd say is that if you don't have a ton of hard drives, I'd rotate the cages so they intake from the front, like the top one in this pic. That will produce airflow aimed back to the GPU zone. But if you do have multiple 3.5" HDDs, I'd move the fans out of the drive cages entirely and go bottom to top airflow, or even top intake (keeping the top dust filter) and set the HD cage fans to exhaust to the side. edit: Zarin posted:Edit: I read through all the links posted by you guys, thanks! One thing I did notice is that it's a bit harder to figure out on the Amazon fans what the bearing type is. Still, I'm sure I can figure that out via research when I am ready to sit down and pull the trigger after I decide how many I am gonna go for, and whether I'm going to plug them into the case fan controller or motherboard. How many fans can I get away with daisy-chaining together, by chance? I assume it's based on amp draw? Klyith fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 06:23
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Klyith posted:Dust prevention is positive or balanced pressure + intake fans behind dust filters that get cleaned regularly + having a clean house (and the 3rd one is the most effective). Welp, I'm hosed then  Nah, house isn't filthy, but we do have cats and a toddler. That being said, I keep my PC on my desk/up off the floor these days, so even at its worst, it's NOTHING like what it was when I was growing up with both my parents smoking, pets, etc.I also bought some polyfilter stuff from Grainger in a massive roll that, while it's ugly as sin, certainly keeps the dust out almost 100% if I decide to go that route. The included dust filters seem to be pretty good overall, though. Klyith posted:That case is weird, it's got a lot of options and I'm not sure what's the best. Depends a lot on where the case is, carpet or hard floor, against furniture, etc. The one thing I'd say is that if you don't have a ton of hard drives, I'd rotate the cages so they intake from the front, like the top one in this pic. That will produce airflow aimed back to the GPU zone. Well, poo poo! I didn't even realize the fans could intake sideways in the front like that. Huh . . . nah, stock they came with the fans blowing in from the front to back, I think. There's only two there, though, so there's certainly room for another. Yeah, that definitely gives me a lot of options. I've even considered turning the case on its side (motherboard down) because the 3080s are such heckin' chonkers, just to keep stress off of everything. I'm sure there'd be some benefit to the CPU as well, as it has a massive Noctua cooler on it. The only downside I could see is that the glass panel would then become the top, and there's no passive airflow that way. But . . . I could in theory then point the "top", "bottom", and "back" fans to "in", and then have the front three pointing out . . . hmm. Options. Yeah, I've got a lot to think about now. Thanks for this, much appreciated!
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Sep 29, 2020 06:59
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So this is a tentative build for my new pc https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WHvZBZ I'm in the us and this is to replace my current gaming pc. The graphics card is just place holder because I already have that card in my current PC that I'm planning on transfering it to the new pc. I also was contemplating keeping my current PSU because it's been fine so far. I purchased it back in 2014 but I didn't fully assemble the pc it's in now until 2016. should I bite the bullet and get a new psu just because or should the current psu be fine for now? I also have cheap dell monitors with some nonstandard resolution that I have problems with some games (like 1280x968 or something whacky like that), any strong opinions on that monitor as an upgrade?
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Sep 29, 2020 07:02
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redpleb posted:So this is a tentative build for my new pc https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WHvZBZ What was the warranty length on the PSU back when you got it? I suspect it probably just fell out of warranty, though? Personally, I don't trust a PSU any further than I can throw it uphill against a strong wind - I change 'em out whenever they're reaching end-of-warranty these days (which is also like, 10+ years for some of the better ones so it's not even a big deal). That being said, there are also plenty of PSUs that last for far longer than their warrantied lifespans. I'd say it probably comes down to where you fall on the Price Sensitive/Risk Averse scale.
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Sep 29, 2020 07:15
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redpleb posted:So this is a tentative build for my new pc https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WHvZBZ I would definitely just get the new PSU. No sense in plugging $1200 of new equipment into an old PSU, imo. Adding <10% of the total cost for the security and piece of mind is a sound investment.  PCPP says you don't need that much wattage, so unless you are leaving room to upgrade to a 3080+, you could get a 550 or 650W and save $50+ USD (and still get a 3070 later). You could also shift part or all of that over to the RAM and get CL18 or CL16 for +$10 or +$30. OR shift it over to the CPU and get a 3700X.
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Sep 29, 2020 07:33
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:I would definitely just get the new PSU. No sense in plugging $1200 of new equipment into an old PSU, imo. Adding <10% of the total cost for the security and piece of mind is a sound investment. were I to downgrade the psu and shift the money to ram or cpu, which would I likely get more performance out of?
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Sep 29, 2020 07:40
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also, what's a good way to transfer data off old drives? I've got 2 1TB harddrives I've had from 2 computers ago that are still going strong, but I think it's time to retire them and I just want to get my steam libraries off them and maybe a couple of other things. would I be better off plugging them into the new pc after it's built and doing the transfer manually or is there a better way?
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Sep 29, 2020 07:45
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Zarin posted:The only downside I could see is that the glass panel would then become the top, and there's no passive airflow that way. But . . . I could in theory then point the "top", "bottom", and "back" fans to "in", and then have the front three pointing out . . . hmm. Options.
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Sep 29, 2020 07:54
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redpleb posted:also, what's a good way to transfer data off old drives? I've got 2 1TB harddrives I've had from 2 computers ago that are still going strong, but I think it's time to retire them and I just want to get my steam libraries off them and maybe a couple of other things. would I be better off plugging them into the new pc after it's built and doing the transfer manually or is there a better way? I'd just get a new 2+ TB drive now, transfer whatever you want off the old drives. Then carry over the new drive when you build your new PC and chuck/sell/recycle the old drives.
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Sep 29, 2020 07:57
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Neo_Crimson posted:I'd just get a new 2+ TB drive now, transfer whatever you want off the old drives. Then carry over the new drive when you build your new PC and chuck/sell/recycle the old drives. I already have a 3TB external hard drive, is there an easy way to back up to that in preparation for the move?
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Sep 29, 2020 08:07
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redpleb posted:I already have a 3TB external hard drive, is there an easy way to back up to that in preparation for the move? There are backup programs out there, but in your case I'd just copy/paste the files.
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Sep 29, 2020 08:20
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Neo_Crimson posted:There are backup programs out there, but in your case I'd just copy/paste the files. thanks!
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Sep 29, 2020 08:47
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Been struggling with getting the PCIe x16 slot to work on two boards now and I'm kind of at my wits' end. Hardware: i7-10700KA EVGA SuperNOVA G2 850 W EVGA GTX 1070 FTW / EVGA GTX 970 G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Picked up a Gigabyte Z490 AORUS ELITE AC from Newegg as a combo with the 10700KA. All my attempts to run any GPU in the 16x PCIe slot resulted in driver crashes. The odd thing is that everything just fine if I put the GPU into the secondary PCIe 4x slot. When I initially put everything together, I was able to run the card in the 16x slot for about 8 hours - it worked fine in the evening, but had bluescreened over night. Stuff I tried - Uninstalling the driver with DDU and reinstalling - Installing an older driver - Swapping around PSU cables - Swapping the PSU with a different one - Trying a different GPU - Updating BIOS to the latest version - Updating BIOS to an older version - Turning the integrated graphics off in the BIOS - Resetting the BIOS - Unscrewing and re-seating the motherboard in the case The GPU and PSU run just fine on my old hardware and in the 16x slot. Asus ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO ALPHA i7-6700K Sent the back to newegg today for a replacement today and got too impatient so I picked up an MSI - MPG Z490 GAMING EDGE WIFI from best buy, only to run into the exact same problem. Planning on returning that tomorrow and maybe picking up a replacement? I'm not sure if this is a common thing with z490 boards, or if I've just been unlucky.
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Sep 29, 2020 09:27
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