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gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

spacing in vienna posted:



The version of Into Thin Air I read had an epilogue with Krakauer apologizing for insulting Boukreev and for any errors he may have made in the original.

There's also a big difference between even the first edition of Into Thin Air and the Outside magazine article that Krakauer wrote before the book immediately upon return. The magazine article was a lot shorter, a lot more shooting from the hip, and a lot more discounting of the rescue contribution from Boukreev. The book might disagree with his decision to climb without oxygen but it still goes into much more detail on his work to rescue climbers once the emergency started and portrays him legitimately as a hero albeit one who may have made a bad call earlier in the day. A lot of people conflate the article and the book.

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SilvergunSuperman
Aug 7, 2010

Didn't a recent avalanche on k2 change the equation, where you can no longer/don't have to go up one of the most dangerous parts?

I forget exactly and may be talking out of my rear end.

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

You're thinking of https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hillary_Step

Crime on a Dime
Nov 28, 2006
i am smarter than any of the dead climbers

Shinjobi
Jul 10, 2008


Gravy Boat 2k
I guess with these threads my thought is that I admire the people who want the challenge that a giant friggin mountain provides.



But I do not admire the people who actually challenge said mountain. The spirit of the thing is fine, but at the end of the day what are they even doing there? It's not a pioneering thing anymore, the mountain has been scaled plenty of times.



People doing it for bragging rights is just depressing, I guess?

SilvergunSuperman
Aug 7, 2010


Ah poo poo you're absolutely right, thanks.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Yeah the super dangerous thing about K2 is that most routes run through the Bottleneck, which is the path formed underneath this huge rear end serac:



Big chunks of ice can fall off of that basically whenever, plus the part you walk on is like a 50 degree side slope.

If there was a Nepal 2015 level earthquake and that let go for some reason it might get a whole lot safer? :shrug:

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
There's another possible route up to the summit of K2 just to the left of the serac and the bottleneck. It's a rock route that was climbed only once ever, by Fritz Weissner and Pasang Dawa Lama in 1939 (who turned around a few hundred feet from the summit) and has never been attempted since, which gives you an idea of how hard it may have been. But apparently some of the guide services are hoping that they might be able to go over there and fix ropes up it that clients could jug up and do that to avoid the serac and the bottleneck there.

This image shows the current route around the serac and the rock cliff just off to the left that is apparently under consideration, it would go through that cliff left of the bottleneck then follow the usual snowfields to the summit:


gohuskies fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Nov 2, 2020

Buttcoin purse
Apr 24, 2014

Shinjobi posted:

I guess with these threads my thought is that I admire the people who want the challenge that a giant friggin mountain provides.



But I do not admire the people who actually challenge said mountain. The spirit of the thing is fine, but at the end of the day what are they even doing there? It's not a pioneering thing anymore, the mountain has been scaled plenty of times.



People doing it for bragging rights is just depressing, I guess?

Traveling to a foreign country and littering their scenery with gas bottles, my own waste, and possibly my corpse; consuming other people's diluted waste; stealing cups of tea from the locals; stepping over corpses; queueing for a long time to take a selfie; all so that I can be unique like ~5,000 other people before me.

pop fly to McGillicutty
Feb 2, 2004

A peckish little mouse!

Buttcoin purse posted:

Traveling to a foreign country and littering their scenery with gas bottles, my own waste, and possibly my corpse; consuming other people's diluted waste; stealing cups of tea from the locals; stepping over corpses; queueing for a long time to take a selfie; all so that I can be unique like ~5,000 other people before me.

buttheadventure!

Jeza
Feb 13, 2011

The cries of the dead are terrible indeed; you should try not to hear them.
The greatest challenge in climbing Everest is the price.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
The greatest challenge in climbing Everest is mastering Photoshop.

Grevling
Dec 18, 2016

Don't everestimate the challenge of climbing that mountain.

A Festivus Miracle
Dec 19, 2012

I have come to discourse on the profound inequities of the American political system.

All of the 8k mountains in the Himalayas and Karakoram range have bits, pieces, and routes that no one has ever tried to ascend. Hell, even to this day, no one has ascended K2 in the depths of winter. And some of these 8k mountains have death rates that are vastly higher than climbing Everest - Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, and K2 are actually ludicrously deadly peaks in comparison to Everest.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Summiting the deadlier mountains for bragging rights is madness. It’s not about the technical difficulty of the climb, though many are tougher than Everest. It’s the avalanche risk. They might as well climb Everest and play two rounds of Russian roulette.

Colonel Cancer
Sep 26, 2015

Tune into the fireplace channel, you absolute buffoon
I wonder why the majority of the climbers are men :thunk:

Nuggan
Jul 17, 2006

Always rolling skulls.
Fun Fact: Climbing Mt. Everest Gives People Boners

20 Blunts
Jan 21, 2017

wow just go to home depot fuckwads

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
I'm no scaffoldologist or sailor or mountain climber but that looks like an excessively complicated array of ropes and lines for a ladder.

PostNouveau
Sep 3, 2011

VY till I die
Grimey Drawer

Outrail posted:

I'm no scaffoldologist or sailor or mountain climber but that looks like an excessively complicated array of ropes and lines for a ladder.

Yeah just have the guy at the bottom hold it, what's the big deal?

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius

Outrail posted:

I'm no scaffoldologist or sailor or mountain climber but that looks like an excessively complicated array of ropes and lines for a ladder.

A bunch of them are probably old ropes that are just left there.

HugeGrossBurrito
Mar 20, 2018
This book is amazing, you should read it, welcome back to GBS thread you have been gone too long.

https://www.nationalparkstraveler.org/review/2013/minus-148-degrees-first-winter-ascent-mount-mckinley23978

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


shame on an IGA posted:

idunno Ben Nevis is only 4400' MSL and still manages to kill 3 or 4 people every year

Way late reply but my uncle used to be mountain rescue for Nevis until a couple of years ago. Instead of going on the mountain now he helps coordinate from the rescue centre and took us to check the place out when we visited. Some of the stories he told were crazy despite like you say, it not actually being particularly high. The one that stuck with me the most is when someone fell into one of the rivers that was raging from rainfall. The poor fucker stumbled in up the hill and by the time his corpse got to the bottom it had been beaten off so many rocks it had been stripped of clothing and a large portion of the skin on it. There was a couple from Canada who got wiped out in an avalanche too who are now buried up near Nevis... It's a real bummer and a harsh reminder that even what is a supposedly 'easy' hill can be somewhat murderous. The trail off the top in low visibility has claimed people too as it runs quite close to a ridge with a drop to the right.

Colonel Cancer
Sep 26, 2015

Tune into the fireplace channel, you absolute buffoon
Why not put a high def web camera on top of Everest so people can just telecommute to the top :shrug:

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius

Colonel Cancer posted:

Why not put a high def web camera on top of Everest so people can just telecommute to the top :shrug:

Can you please mute? Your cries to not be left for dead are bumming everyone out.

pop fly to McGillicutty
Feb 2, 2004

A peckish little mouse!

Friction at the top of the oh oh god

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

From a AAC writeup on that winter Denali expedition:

quote:

Ray Genet, Dave Johnston and Art Davidson had reached the summit at approximately seven P.M. on February 28. There was a gusty wind of 35 to 40 miles per hour and the thermometer registered —62°F. They hollowed out a hole in the snow and buried Jacques Batkin s hat as a tribute to him.

Returning to the pass around midnight, they decided to spend the night there. That decision began an ordeal which lasted seven days. During the storm their main sustinence was courage and determination. Their packs blew away with a portion of their food and Art s anorak, but they dug in behind some sheltering rocks, climbed into their bags and waited. During momentary lulls, Dave scavenged around and found a bottle of gas he had left at the pass in 1963 (the finest example of preplanning I have ever known), plus some scraps of Army K-rations. Though they all suffered frostbite, Art subsequently lost half a toe and Dave, portions of several toes..

We found Mount McKinley in winter to be no more difficult than we imagined.

Climbers are an odd bunch

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

PostNouveau posted:

Yeah just have the guy at the bottom hold it, what's the big deal?

See, this guy gets it.

poverty goat
Feb 15, 2004




The easiest way to get a death erection is just to hang yourself

poverty goat
Feb 15, 2004



To be clear, I'm not suggesting that anyone in this thread hang themselves. Just that it's a much more straightforward way to get a boner than climbing everest.

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Reach for the moon!
I'm pretty sure most of these idiots are climbing Mount Everest because it's the only way for them to get a boner, actually

Ralph Crammed In
May 11, 2007

Let's get clean and smart


I read the account of climbing Annapurna written by Maurice Hertzog, one of the Frenchmen who summited it back in the 50s. Once they get up real high on the mountain they decide to make a summit attempt but the Sherpas declined to go to the top with them. Hertzog had this part then where he goes "why would they refuse this? The beauty and the majesty and the glory blah blah". It's at the point I remember in the introduction it's noted that Hertzog is dictating this while in a hospital. Long story short, Hertzog and other guy get their hands and feet blast frozen cause they lose their gloves and the rest of the book details how agonizingly painful frostbite and the treatment for frostbite it.

Why didn't those Sherpas want to ascend? :thunk:

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Reach for the moon!
So many of the deaths Everest has become infamous for could have been avoided by just listening to the Sherpa. And I mean literally, so so many of them feature survivors returning with foreverially messed up bodies saying of their co-climbers "Yeah Johnny Five Aces thought he was the best climber in the world and, being high on adrenaline, reached the summit and then died on the way back down in inclement weather."

Just listen to your loving Sherpa, you're paying them to be your guide. You gave money to a firm that employs them to ferry you and all your crap safely with the implication being that they know what they're doing moreso than you!

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Have you ever looked at climbing to the top of an 8000er and thought the descent looked too easy? Why not try popping a few Red Bulls and skiing down that bitch?

https://youtu.be/TiGkU_eXJa8

Munin
Nov 14, 2004


Cojawfee posted:

You can see what happens when you don't have oxygen anymore in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcvkjfG4A_M

This one is fun too:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUfF2MTnqAw

That first video is a deeply uncomfortable watch. That blank look of incomprehension as he is being told he needs to put on his mask or else he will die is pretty chilling.

Meme Poker Party
Sep 1, 2006

by Azathoth

Munin posted:

blank look of incomprehension as he is being told he needs to put on his mask

It's absurd how common this... oh yeah this thread is about Mt Everest nvm.

13Pandora13
Nov 5, 2008

I've got tiiits that swingle dangle dingle




Cojawfee posted:

I think the belief is that, if you do the climb without oxygen, you're always in the same decreased mental state and can plan for that and get used to it. If you do the climb with oxygen and then, suddenly, you are out of oxygen, your mental state drastically declines and you suddenly can't think straight.

You can see what happens when you don't have oxygen anymore in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcvkjfG4A_M

This one is fun too:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUfF2MTnqAw

I think it was in the documentary or dramatization of the first Everest climb, or maybe another time. But it was two guys working their way to the top and one of the guys noticed the other was getting sluggish. He took off the guy's mask and saw that it was entirely iced over and he was no longer getting oxygen.

So there was an air disaster in Greece, in 2005, that was the result in a pressurization issue that rendered the entire crew and all passengers incapacitated due to hypoxia. Slow leak/improper cabin pressurzation, no explosive decompression that would have been noticed, so by the time the masks deployed everyone was either out or not coherent enough to act rationally (consequently, the pilots did not descend to a safe altitude). Shortly before the plane crashed due to fuel exhaustion, Grecian air force pilots reported seeing an unknown person enter the cockpit and point down. It was one of the flight attendants, who managed to linger on a little longer than everyone else from being a swimmer, who was attempting to try to get to lower altitude but just...didn't make it in time. The strength of the flight attendant was seriously astounding, both physically and mentally getting to that point of action with that severe of oxygen deprivation is unheard of. Poor guy had to watch the whole thing. Everyone was alive (but unconscious for such a duration that even if they'd survived they'd have been brain dead) at the time of impact; hypoxia is absolutely brutal. :smith:

One of the prevailing theories about MH370 is that the craft met the same end, either from an intentional act or accidental (as was the case with the Helios flight).

wheatpuppy
Apr 25, 2008

YOU HAVE MY POST!

13Pandora13 posted:

So there was an air disaster in Greece, in 2005, that was the result in a pressurization issue that rendered the entire crew and all passengers incapacitated due to hypoxia. Slow leak/improper cabin pressurzation, no explosive decompression that would have been noticed, so by the time the masks deployed everyone was either out or not coherent enough to act rationally (consequently, the pilots did not descend to a safe altitude). Shortly before the plane crashed due to fuel exhaustion, Grecian air force pilots reported seeing an unknown person enter the cockpit and point down. It was one of the flight attendants, who managed to linger on a little longer than everyone else from being a swimmer, who was attempting to try to get to lower altitude but just...didn't make it in time. The strength of the flight attendant was seriously astounding, both physically and mentally getting to that point of action with that severe of oxygen deprivation is unheard of. Poor guy had to watch the whole thing. Everyone was alive (but unconscious for such a duration that even if they'd survived they'd have been brain dead) at the time of impact; hypoxia is absolutely brutal. :smith:

One of the prevailing theories about MH370 is that the craft met the same end, either from an intentional act or accidental (as was the case with the Helios flight).

That's also how Payne Stewart died. Plane full of zombies just flew in a straight line until it ran out of fuel and hit the ground.

Mr. Funny Pants
Apr 9, 2001

wheatpuppy posted:

That's also how Payne Stewart died. Plane full of zombies just flew in a straight line until it ran out of fuel and hit the ground.

The worst part of that is that the checklist for fixing what was wrong didn't say to put on oxygen masks first. They do now.

13Pandora13 posted:

One of the prevailing theories about MH370 is that the craft met the same end, either from an intentional act or accidental (as was the case with the Helios flight).

The theory that seemed most credible to me (for all that's worth, which isn't much) is that the pilot intentionally decompressed the plane so he'd have no opposition. I forget what he was thought to have done to the other pilot.

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Empty Sandwich
Apr 22, 2008

goatse mugs

Mr. Funny Pants posted:

The theory that seemed most credible to me (for all that's worth, which isn't much) is that the pilot intentionally decompressed the plane so he'd have no opposition. I forget what he was thought to have done to the other pilot.

there was a long-format article about this somewhere. his wife had left him and he was spending hours on MS Flight Simulator doing the same route he seems to have taken.

the theory goes that the copilot got locked out at the exact moment the plane was supposed to be handed from one control tower to another (so nobody noticed), and he depressurized the cabin (but the cockpit is separate now) and just flew until he was out of fuel or decided to down it

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