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This is my third-ever mini painted and first ever that I assembled! I realize I hosed up the trenchcoat parts too late (they're on the wrong sides...) but honestly I just wanted to use the cheapest Crisis Protocol fig I could buy just to see if I could indeed assemble and paint a fig. Unfortunately ended up that Star Lord has the most convoluted, tinyass parts (FIVE pieces for his head!?) but ah well. Still could def look more professional but I am very happy with how the paint turned out for the third thing I've ever painted, the gunmetal on the armor/leg grooves/mask in particular. Other figures will def be easier to do since this one had a lot of awkwardness to it but I'm looking forward to the next projects: a genestealer troupe and the Vision/Winter Soldier 2-pack I ordered.   
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Nov 4, 2020 22:35
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AndyElusive posted:Finished painting Illuminor Szeras this week so I guess that means he's ready for a couple of glamour shots while he does his little turn on the catwalk. The blood/entrails/brains jizz stream is captivating me too much to look at anything else here (in the best way).
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Nov 4, 2020 23:09
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I'm painting this Battle Lord right now (not my pic, just an example I've been using): What the heck is that supposed to be around his waist? A hoodie?
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Nov 5, 2020 22:05
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I think it's probably a poorly sculpted (perhaps) but of cloth meant to be the Lords/Kings colors. The positioning and how it doesn't fully wrap doesn't track with what I know about knights but perhaps someone has more knowledge on this.
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Nov 5, 2020 22:11
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Professor Shark posted:I'm painting this Battle Lord right now (not my pic, just an example I've been using): Armor is pretty hot, you'd take off your hoodie too
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Nov 5, 2020 22:12
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For the goons who've airbrushed varnish: is it worth it? Issues? Etc. I got some for free from my flgs and was wondering if it was worth even trying to do.
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Nov 5, 2020 23:48
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Has anybody else used that new Citadel paint Canoptek Alloy yet? It's this super light gold color that looks awesome on any kind of armor and weapon. Great coverage and goes on pretty smooth. It's probably going to be one of those colors I use on just about every model from now on.
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Nov 5, 2020 23:55
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Spiv posted:For the goons who've airbrushed varnish: is it worth it? Issues? Etc. 100% worth it, I will very often varnish models multiple times during the painting process to protect it from any handling during painting. Do note you still need to use a few drops of flow improver with varnish just to keep things working well. Vallejo Mecha Matte and Cinara fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Nov 6, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 23:57
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Spiv posted:For the goons who've airbrushed varnish: is it worth it? Issues? Etc. The Vallejo matt and semi gloss that I've used before seems ok. I used it during the winter when spray priming and varnishing was more difficult. I was running into this issue though where it became hard for me to gauge how thickly I was laying it down on the model, so I'd have to use multiple coats to get the right coverage. Since that meant setting up my airbrush over and over again I got sick of it, and now just jump outside really quick to spay it down with Testors Dullcoat. That stuff has never let me down.
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Nov 6, 2020 00:02
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You can just paint it on too. It doesn't have to go through an airbrush.Cinara posted:AK Ultra Matte Dont buy stuff from AK. They're weird racists. MIG is the same formula with the holocaust support.
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Nov 6, 2020 00:05
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Wow ok yea, I completely missed that. Link for people who may have also. https://www.reddit.com/r/HobbyDrama/comments/ilgtum/scale_modeling_when_a_hobby_company_tries_to_use/ I've been super happy with Vallejo so I'll stick to recommending that.
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Nov 6, 2020 00:11
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Originally I did plan to paint it on, but I'm about a dozen models behind and two of which are warglaives, so I was just going to spray it to be quick. But I also am paranoid as hell with varnish because it seems like just one minor flaw in the process will ruin a model's paint job.
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Nov 6, 2020 00:12
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Cat Face Joe posted:You can just paint it on too. It doesn't have to go through an airbrush. Welp, guess I'll have to check out Vallejo or MIG matte varnish
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Nov 6, 2020 00:42
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Spiv posted:For the goons who've airbrushed varnish: is it worth it? Issues? Etc. I use liquitex and it works great through my patriot 105 undiluted. It requires a more thorough cleaning than paint afterwards, though. You can get them at any Michael's which is why I picked them over a hobby brand.
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Nov 6, 2020 00:47
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Quick Question: If I've put Agrellan Earth (the GW cracking technical paint) on a base, but now its dried realised I didnt put it on thickly enough and the cracks are tiny, can I just slap a thicker layer on top or will that not work for reasons?
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Nov 6, 2020 00:53
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Once I started airbrushing varnish I’d never go back to rattle cans. I’ve been using Valejo mecha matte for a few years now and have never had a problem with it. Sprayed heavy or light, flow improver or without, it always works. I can’t say the same for testors dullcoat which has fogged up on me and caused underpaint to peel up.
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Nov 6, 2020 00:55
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Same. Dullcote's not that flat and a pain to work with, and AK Ultra Matte is pretty crap, even before their latest moronic escapade. Mecha Matte's pretty decent even brushed, but it's the business through an airbrush.
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Nov 6, 2020 01:08
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SiKboy posted:Quick Question: If I've put Agrellan Earth (the GW cracking technical paint) on a base, but now its dried realised I didnt put it on thickly enough and the cracks are tiny, can I just slap a thicker layer on top or will that not work for reasons? No reason if shouldn't work. Might be a little taller than you anticipated (obviously). I would try experimenting with painting your existing layer darker brown or using an agrax wash to make it darker so when your newer, thicker layer starts cracking it'll show an exaggerated darker earth layer underneath.
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Nov 6, 2020 02:03
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grassy gnoll posted:Same. Dullcote's not that flat and a pain to work with, and AK Ultra Matte is pretty crap, even before their latest moronic escapade. I've always just used liquitex varnish and thinned it. This stuff better?
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Nov 6, 2020 02:07
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I finished four more elves. Ok, three elves and one elf-ancestry tiefling.  I'm quite pleased with these, the bronze armor just works so well.
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Nov 6, 2020 02:18
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Just to prove that the Skeletor Dynasty unit wasn't just a one-off (despite my motivation problems when it comes to painting) Finally learning to play with air pressure and fine control of the dual action lever on my airbrush to let me get more precise results - I still oversprayed a bit in some areas, but I didn't have any issues with runny paint, splatters or other weird issues. I progress! Soon I will be a mediocre painter instead of a tabletop level painter!
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Nov 6, 2020 06:46
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 Test necrons! Left is a wet overbrush of Vallejo Metal Color Dark Aluminium (why a wet overbrush? Well, I did it last, and my drybrush was damp by then...), middle is a zenithal airbrush of a mix of Scalecolor Negro Gold and Vallejo Metal Color Jet Exhaust, and the right is a drybrush (a proper drybrush, with the same dry makeup brush that was a damp brush for the guy on the left) of just Jet Exhaust. Glow is first Kabaline Green and then Scalecolor Fluorescent Green over white. Working from this tutorial. They don't photograph well; in person the differences between the metallic tones are much more pronounced. Also, they're just sketches; I'm trying to figure out which basecoat to elaborate on. I don't actually want to do full Szarekhan Dynasty colors with the pronouncedly different silver, brass, and black; but I do really like the way the Szarekhan color scheme takes the classic silver death robots and adds more color variety, so I'm trying to do something like a Sautekh color scheme with a warmer off-silver and more subtle hue and value variation across the model.
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Nov 6, 2020 07:17
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Can vouch for Vallejo Mecha Matte. I swore by dullcote before, but its easier to work with, easier to find, and just as good. I use gloss a lot for technical purposes and pledge is still my go-to.
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Nov 6, 2020 07:28
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BULBASAUR posted:Can vouch for Vallejo Mecha Matte. I swore by dullcote before, but its easier to work with, easier to find, and just as good. Vallejo Mecha Matte is amazing. Incidentally, so is Vallejo Mecha Primer Black. The necrons in the post above are done with it. It's probably too early to tell, but it may beat out Stynylrez.
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Nov 6, 2020 07:51
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Stynylrez is giving me grief when I tried batching all 20 of my Indomitus Warriors in one go. Then again I don't imagine any primer could sit in an airbrush and not start drying for that long.
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Nov 6, 2020 08:44
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chin up everything sucks posted:Skeletor Dynasty gently caress just keep this coming
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Nov 6, 2020 08:46
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I've been really pleased with everything I've tried from the Vallejo mecha range. I have no idea if the varnishes are identical to the others and just relabeled but they feel better somehow.
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Nov 6, 2020 08:49
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TTerrible posted:I've been really pleased with everything I've tried from the Vallejo mecha range. I have no idea if the varnishes are identical to the others and just relabeled but they feel better somehow. The mecha varnishes are not relabeled normal varnishes. Regular Vallejo Matte Varnish is pretty crap. Mecha Matte is the best. Mecha Satin is great, too, and I like Mecha Gloss but I've never actually deployed my bottle of Pledge, so I can't speak to how it compares to floor wax. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Nov 6, 2020 |
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Nov 6, 2020 09:12
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i found winsor and newton galeria matte varnish to be decent but i haven’t tried any alternatives
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Nov 6, 2020 09:45
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Eej posted:Stynylrez is giving me grief when I tried batching all 20 of my Indomitus Warriors in one go. Then again I don't imagine any primer could sit in an airbrush and not start drying for that long. Mine gives me problems trying to get two infiltrators fully primed. I'm going to have to grab the mecha and give it a go.
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Nov 6, 2020 13:04
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WIP on Makari. I love painting goblins, they're so quick to paint! 
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Nov 6, 2020 14:09
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Eej posted:No reason if shouldn't work. Might be a little taller than you anticipated (obviously). I would try experimenting with painting your existing layer darker brown or using an agrax wash to make it darker so when your newer, thicker layer starts cracking it'll show an exaggerated darker earth layer underneath. Cheers, will give it a go! Just didnt want to do it if it was going to be a waste of time through... I dunno, bad adhesion to itself or something. Will probably splodge some on well away from the models feet (as you say, the added height wouldnt be ideal if they are sinking into it too much) just to give some kind of visual interest to the base. Did it on 6 bases, thought I'd been reasonably consistant, but 3 of them are fine, 2 of them are acceptable, and one of them the cracks are only visible if you pick the model up.
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Nov 6, 2020 14:31
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If you're worried about any crackle paint falling off you can brush on a thin layer of pva glue mixed with water (with a crappy brush ofc). That should keep it all held together without affecting the look.
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Nov 6, 2020 14:46
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Verisimilidude posted:WIP on Makari. I love painting goblins, they're so quick to paint! This looks great. What are you using for the skin? I've experimented with a few different contrast recipes but it was now long enough ago that I've forgotten which ones worked better. I think it was a combination of Plaguebearer Flesh and either Creed Camo or Militarum Green, maybe.
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Nov 6, 2020 14:52
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GigaFuzz posted:This looks great. What are you using for the skin? I've experimented with a few different contrast recipes but it was now long enough ago that I've forgotten which ones worked better. I think it was a combination of Plaguebearer Flesh and either Creed Camo or Militarum Green, maybe. I've refined the skin a bit. Now it's plaguebearer flesh in two layers over wraithbone. Then I mixed 1 part ork flesh with 3 parts contrast medium and applied that to the skin. Then I went in with plaguebearer flesh mixed with ice yellow (specifically AP Moon Dust) for two highlights on the raised parts. I'm finding basically all of the contrast paints do much better with two layers. They come out more saturated without becoming flat.
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Nov 6, 2020 15:36
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w00tmonger posted:I've always just used liquitex varnish and thinned it. This stuff better? I'd say Mecha matte's definitely better, but Liquitex is pretty solid. I'd keep on keeping on, but next time you need a new bottle of varnish, you might think about switching.
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Nov 6, 2020 16:35
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I guess it probably varies from paint to paint, but roughly how much Vallejo Glaze Medium should I add to my paint? And do you guys still add any water on top of that? All previous attempts at learning to glaze I've just been using water and have not been pleased with the results in the slightest. I've been trying to practice painting flesh on this Nolzur's Hill Giant I snagged recently but it came out like dog poo poo. Just picked up a bottle of this stuff yesterday though. Gonna go re-do it :/
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Nov 6, 2020 16:49
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I personally don't find glaze medium useful unless the paint is of a consistency where it starts breaking before you can thin it to glaze consistency with water alone. In that case I'll make a roughly 50/50 mix of Vallejo glaze medium and water on my palette and just add that mix to the paint until it's thin enough. You can do this with any paint if you want the properties of the medium for your glaze. There's no one recipe for a glaze since the relevant properties of a paint vary a good bit even within the same brand. When I was learning to glaze my big epiphanies were a) a proper glaze consistency is a lot thinner than you probably think (varies by opacity of the paint though, of course) b) once getting the glaze onto your brush you should dry most of it off of the brush using a paper towel until the brush is just slightly damp, this will let you apply it with the proper even-ness, control, and thin-ness, and c) if you're trying to do a blend small, almost stippling, touches are often better than large smooth brush strokes. The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Nov 6, 2020 |
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Nov 6, 2020 17:06
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Makari done! Super fun to paint.   
Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Nov 7, 2020 |
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Nov 7, 2020 00:27
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I can't remember if it was here or the general 40k thread, but I got a 2 week vacation from work and wanted to try: 1) The airbrush I inherited 2) Silicone molding! I haven't touched the airbrush. But... I've been big into the Middle-Earth battle game recently, and have been working on elves. The problem though is that they give you 8 shields for potentially 24 dudes. (Realistically 16 guys, as I probably won't add them to the archers)    THICK Thank you everyone for continuously sharing cool things and techniques!!!
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Nov 7, 2020 02:38
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