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It's SoCal, so very little rain and no salt whatsoever.
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Nov 1, 2020 17:39
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SlightlyMad posted:Hello VW/Audi Exorcism Thread. I hope no exorcisms will be needed here. I've had a 2011 for a little over a year, with no issues to speak of. The car has been very reliable so far.
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Nov 1, 2020 23:05
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Does anyone have any experience replacing brake pads on newer VAG cars? I've got a 2018 Tiguan with an electronic parking brake system. The car needs new pads in the rears and from the quick research I've done it appears that you need software such as VCDS to properly disengage the electronic parking brake so you can replace the pads, is this true? If so are there any halfway decent OBD2 -> PC interfaces for VAG cars that don't break the bank?
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Nov 2, 2020 03:41
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seems odd that you need to replace rear brake pads on a 2018. the cheapest option would be an OBDeleven device (they work better with android phones/tablets than apple).
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Nov 2, 2020 06:36
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Diametunim posted:Does anyone have any experience replacing brake pads on newer VAG cars? I've got a 2018 Tiguan with an electronic parking brake system. The car needs new pads in the rears and from the quick research I've done it appears that you need software such as VCDS to properly disengage the electronic parking brake so you can replace the pads, is this true? If so are there any halfway decent OBD2 -> PC interfaces for VAG cars that don't break the bank? Yup. Did that last year. There's a no-computer bypass that worked for me: meatpimp posted:I swear to loving god you cursed me with that comment.
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Nov 2, 2020 15:05
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EVERYWHERE 
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BraveUlysses posted:seems odd that you need to replace rear brake pads on a 2018. the cheapest option would be an OBDeleven device (they work better with android phones/tablets than apple). Oh 100%, The car does have 33k miles on it buuutt for some reason or another the outer brake pad on the rear passenger side has 0 material left on it. It has to have been dragging because every other pad is in good shape. I'll check out the OBD11 Devices, do you know if they're at all comparable to the BlueDriver line of devices? meatpimp posted:Yup. Did that last year. There's a no-computer bypass that worked for me: I had seen a video on YT of someone doing something similar. Thank you for confirming it works. Once you pulled the ebrake mechanism off and disengaged the parking actuator to spin the caliper piston back in did you need to re-engage the actuator? If my description of that process sucked rear end see the YT link below. At ~2:50 he uses a torx bit to spin the rear actuator, he then presses the rear caliper piston in but never re-engages the rear actuator before re-installing the e-brake mechanism. Is that correct?
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Nov 2, 2020 16:02
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SlightlyMad posted:Hello VW/Audi Exorcism Thread. I hope no exorcisms will be needed here. so generally, diesel is useful for tax purposes and fuel cost purposes, but if you are not driving very much, a gasoline engine car might be both cheaper to buy and less expensive to maintain. It appears that the diesels in the Mk.6 generation of the Golf all received the DSG gearbox, not a traditional automatic. The DSG is a bit more maintenance hungry and requires a special fluid change every 40K miles. The clutch packs also wear and require replacement. I would try to avoid the DSG if you can drive a manual transmission. If you are still considering the car, check the maintenance records carefully and make sure that it has received its regular DSG fluid changes. You are buying a used car with approximately 100k miles on it. It will require maintenance and repair on an annual basis. It will require more preventative maintenance and repairs than a newer car. Make sure you are prepared for this and have budgeted for it, and know a good mechanic to do the work for you that is familiar with Volkswagens. I have a newer Variant equivalent and it is a very good car overall. In Europe, the Golf has a good reputation as a high quality product that is relatively reliable.
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Nov 2, 2020 16:34
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Diametunim posted:If my description of that process sucked rear end see the YT link below. At ~2:50 he uses a torx bit to spin the rear actuator, he then presses the rear caliper piston in but never re-engages the rear actuator before re-installing the e-brake mechanism. Is that correct? I don't remember exactly, it was one of those one-off jobs done while raging at VW engineers, but from what I remember, when you put the actuator back on, make sure it's engaged, and the car will automatically adjust when you start it up next. I got a parking brake code on startup, but that went away after it did its thing. Sorry I don't have a better recollection.
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Nov 2, 2020 18:25
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:so generally, diesel is useful for tax purposes and fuel cost purposes, but if you are not driving very much, a gasoline engine car might be both cheaper to buy and less expensive to maintain. It appears that the diesels in the Mk.6 generation of the Golf all received the DSG gearbox, not a traditional automatic. The DSG is a bit more maintenance hungry and requires a special fluid change every 40K miles. The clutch packs also wear and require replacement. I would try to avoid the DSG if you can drive a manual transmission. If you are still considering the car, check the maintenance records carefully and make sure that it has received its regular DSG fluid changes. Much appreciated, thanks for the tips. I have not made up my mind yet 100%, I will inspect the car and documentation and test drive it before any final opinion. The diesel pricing and taxation is undergoing some changes around here, so it is hard to say how that will develop in the long run. Politics. If you know, how big or expensive an operation would it be for a professional mechanic to replace clutch packs/ change fluids for the DSG? I could use a ballpark figure for budgeting purposes, that is all. I am more used to driving automatics than manual transmission. DSG does not sound like a deal breaker yet, but we will see. I do know a mechanic through family connections who could be of use with this Golf at some point. The engine and transmission details I've dug up from wikipedia: " 1.6 TDI BlueMotion 1,598 cc (98 cu in) I4 (CAYC) 77 kW (105 PS) @ 4,400rpm 250 N⋅m (184 lb⋅ft) @ 1,500-2,500rpm , 7-speed DSG. (DSG: It has considerably less oil capacity than the six-speed DQ250; the DQ200 uses just 1.7 litres (0.37 imp gal; 0.45 US gal) of transmission fluid.) --------------------------------------------- Some of the disadvantages: Due to the complexity of design, it is not possible to make it as reliable as a conventional torque-converter automatic transmission. The clutch pack mechanisms have a limited lifespan; Expensive specialist transmission fluids/lubricants with dedicated additives are required, which need regular changes.  ----------------------------- The 7-speed DQ200 and 6-speed DQ250 gearboxes sometimes suffer from power-loss (gear disengaging) due to short-circuiting of wires caused by a build-up of sulphur in the transmission oil." (Well that tells me why the fluid changes are important).
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Nov 2, 2020 18:56
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Diametunim posted:Oh 100%, The car does have 33k miles on it buuutt for some reason or another the outer brake pad on the rear passenger side has 0 material left on it. It has to have been dragging because every other pad is in good shape. I'll check out the OBD11 Devices, do you know if they're at all comparable to the BlueDriver line of devices? is it under factory warranty? uneven pad wear like that is indicative of a caliper sticking which should be under warranty
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Nov 2, 2020 19:54
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If it isn't they're usually pretty easy to grease.
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Nov 2, 2020 20:11
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finally got around to doing APR tune today to the alltrack, it's a mild one (234 hp /273 lb-ft) with no other changes to the car. With a full complimentary warranty (basically everything except clutch), it came to $1200. I haven't done a timed run, but the car pulls a lot harder especially above about 2500 rpm and pulls a lot more strongly through to redline. It might be a little bit soft low down - I don't think that low end torque got worse, but it definitely doesn't feel all that different below say 2000 rpm. Overall, worth it. it feels a bit quicker than the Mk 7 GTI by seat of pants but that probably also has to do with a less linear power delivery. Would recommend, it's gotten me to the better part of a GTI wagon for $26,600 OTD. Unfortunately the additional power has exposed the necessity of beefier sway bars, and the shittiness of the stock Falken tires. Now to find some GTI sway bars that someone is getting rid of.
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Nov 3, 2020 22:44
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The tune may be soft down low on purpose to save the clutch. I'm a lot more familiar with TDI tuning but it's very common to do that for people without upgraded clutches.
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Nov 4, 2020 20:33
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shy boy from chess club posted:The tune may be soft down low on purpose to save the clutch. I'm a lot more familiar with TDI tuning but it's very common to do that for people without upgraded clutches. I imagine you are correct and I also don't plan to do a clutch upgrade so it suits me just fine.
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Nov 4, 2020 21:10
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Thanks for the trip report. I very much considered that tune myself but I plan to sell the car before the warranty is up so I really don't want it to get TD1'd if it ends up back at the dealer somehow
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Nov 4, 2020 23:11
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flightless greeb posted:Thanks for the trip report. I very much considered that tune myself but I plan to sell the car before the warranty is up so I really don't want it to get TD1'd if it ends up back at the dealer somehow That's always a risk, and I think even more so on the longer warranty that they had going through MY19. I'm not too concerned about that for fairly specific individual reasons, but that might have put me off a bit if I were in someone else's shoes.
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Nov 5, 2020 02:22
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I just picked up a '17 Alltrack with DSG recently, sounds like I should go ahead and get it tuned 
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Nov 5, 2020 21:29
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Nur_Neerg posted:I just picked up a '17 Alltrack with DSG recently, sounds like I should go ahead and get it tuned 
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Nov 5, 2020 21:32
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BraveUlysses posted:is it under factory warranty? uneven pad wear like that is indicative of a caliper sticking which should be under warranty It's funny you mention this, the car is under warranty. In fact, I've been fighting with my local VW Dealership since February of this year trying to get a very very obvious stress crack across the windshield replaced under warranty. I've gotten the run around from the service department so many times that I would rather be struck down by god himself than to deal with them for something as small as a sticking pad. If I could legally burn Onion Creek VW to the ground, I would.
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Nov 5, 2020 22:08
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My husband is trying to convince me that we should buy a v10 touareg for sale, he's a mechanic and says he should know better. It'd be amusing, but nah.
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Nov 6, 2020 13:22
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flightless greeb posted:Thanks for the trip report. I very much considered that tune myself but I plan to sell the car before the warranty is up so I really don't want it to get TD1'd if it ends up back at the dealer somehow do they not make plug in box tunes for Alltracks?
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Nov 6, 2020 13:56
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Neuspeed does yeah, I have one. The power difference is, somewhat noticeable? If I wasn't concerned with the warranty tho I'd try and get the turbo off the Golf R and a tune to match.
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Nov 6, 2020 17:12
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Styles Bitchley posted:do they not make plug in box tunes for Alltracks? i didnt really want to gently caress about with taking it on and off when going for service so i figured i would get the APR warranty and roll the dice with the dealer. they are chill.
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Nov 6, 2020 18:35
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Touaregs and Atlases are dumb and ugly and VW should stay out of the crossover/suv market. Fight me. Busses, wagons, sedans, and hatches only. 
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Nov 7, 2020 14:59
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dialhforhero posted:Touaregs and Atlases are dumb and ugly and VW should stay out of the crossover/suv market. Fight me. Should they leave it for the other VAG products like the porsche SUV?
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Nov 7, 2020 17:32
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Alright, got my BEC headlights installed. Install was fairly easy, managed to get them in without completely removing the bumper. They don't fit perfectly but I don't think anyone would really notice unless you pointed out the small gaps underneath them. I'm going to be going out later tonight so I'll see how they perform in the dark but I can't imagine them not being a huge step up. Also I'm happy to get rid of the ugly base lights and now have something that matches the rest of the front end. edit: lights are super bright, lows are basically the same as the halogens on high beam GabbiLB fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Nov 8, 2020 |
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Nov 7, 2020 22:26
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dialhforhero posted:Touaregs and Atlases are dumb and ugly and VW should stay out of the crossover/suv market. Fight me. I too think companies should not make products that people want to buy
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Nov 8, 2020 14:56
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I too think companies should not make products that people want to buy Same which is why I keep writing letters to car companies demanding more high hp wagons
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Nov 8, 2020 15:14
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meatpimp posted:I don't remember exactly, it was one of those one-off jobs done while raging at VW engineers, but from what I remember, when you put the actuator back on, make sure it's engaged, and the car will automatically adjust when you start it up next. I got a parking brake code on startup, but that went away after it did its thing. Sorry I don't have a better recollection. Quoting this for anyone else doing a brake job on a VW with an electronic parking brake. You can remove the e-brake actuator mechanism and manually adjust the piston within the caliper and re-install the e-brake actuator without the car complaining.
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Nov 8, 2020 19:59
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GabbiLB posted:edit: lights are super bright, lows are basically the same as the halogens on high beam How well are they aimed? They look fantastic installed, but I don't want to blind everyone else.
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Nov 9, 2020 06:26
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My daughter will be 12 in about a year. My wife has decided that I should restore an old/classic car with her to be ready when she's 16. I can do basic mechanical tasks like changing oils, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, change out a radiator, but I have little experience with engine internals. The idea here is to have a project here for father-daighter time, end up with a cool car, and teach her basic car repair and maintenance along the way. My father in law has some auto body experience and all the tools to repair and paint panels, although I would ideally start with something where ther is nothing completely rusted through in the visible parts of the car. So I'm thinking about an old Beetle or Carman Ghia. Or maybe a rabbit or one of those little pickups. I'm looking for suggestions and warnings basically. I have a least a year to plan before buying something and then several years to actually do the project. I'm thinking a reasonable total budget of around $10k. Trying to stay pre-1980 I think. My thought on the beetle is that parts should be available because they were ubiquitous when I was a kid and a ton of them were made, I have the impression that the older ones are pretty simple, and they're cool. I remember my dad driving a bug with a bumpy cam that he bought from our mechanic when I was really little. That thing could really go when it was running properly. I think the Ghia is probably harder to find parts for buy just seems like a super cool car.
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Nov 9, 2020 07:02
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therobit posted:My daughter will be 12 in about a year. My wife has decided that I should restore an old/classic car with her to be ready when she's 16. I can do basic mechanical tasks like changing oils, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, change out a radiator, but I have little experience with engine internals. The idea here is to have a project here for father-daighter time, end up with a cool car, and teach her basic car repair and maintenance along the way. My father in law has some auto body experience and all the tools to repair and paint panels, although I would ideally start with something where ther is nothing completely rusted through in the visible parts of the car. Older beetles are a good place to start because they're air cooled and replacement/aftermarket parts are probably more available than any other vehicle. The motor being in the back means you just drop the whole thing out to do anything with it and it's quite easy to just put the engine on a bench and work on it. I would not get a water cooled rabbit or something that is in the era of emissions stuff because it's just so much more to worry about and honestly so many more points where the project could stall or become super frustrating. I think an older pickup is going to be less fun, a lot less character and way harder to find replacement stuff. The other thing is that these cars are obscenely slow. Your memory of the lumpy cam beetle is almost certainly tainted by nostalgia - they really aren't quick but I'm sure they can be fun to drive. I think this is a good thing considering it's for someone you care about. You can still go to a gravel parking lot and have some fun drifting around. Older air cooled VW will also have metal panels (not plastic) which can be repaired instead of replaced.
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Nov 9, 2020 07:37
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VelociBacon posted:Older beetles are a good place to start because they're air cooled and replacement/aftermarket parts are probably more available than any other vehicle. The motor being in the back means you just drop the whole thing out to do anything with it and it's quite easy to just put the engine on a bench and work on it. I would not get a water cooled rabbit or something that is in the era of emissions stuff because it's just so much more to worry about and honestly so many more points where the project could stall or become super frustrating. I think an older pickup is going to be less fun, a lot less character and way harder to find replacement stuff. Yeah, I was 3-5 years old when he had that thing so I probably just thought the noise meant it was fast lol. I has considered that the stock ones are super slow, and I do consider it a bonus remembering how I drove as a kid. My brother in law rebuilt an RX-7 with his dad when he was in high school and nobody ever snitched on him but we went to the same school and I know he got up to some stupid mischief that I thought was awesome at the time but that I would be concerned about as a father. We all become old farts. Thanks for your input. Definitely leaning beetle.
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Nov 9, 2020 08:23
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This sounds like a super cool project and a nice way to potentially bond with your daughter, but first of all, is she interested in this type of stuff? Is this something that she wants? If it isn't, this project could be something that breeds resentment rather than bonding. Second of all - an aircooled is an absurdly unsafe car compared to modern cars and there is no way that I would have an inexperienced teenager drive one every day. Is that the plan?
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Nov 9, 2020 12:42
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:
This is where my mind immediately went. I'd buy something less cool from the 2000s at least.
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Nov 9, 2020 13:30
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TrueChaos posted:How well are they aimed? They look fantastic installed, but I don't want to blind everyone else. They have a pretty big adjustment range. I didn't have too much issue getting them aimed appropriately.
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Nov 9, 2020 13:45
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:This sounds like a super cool project and a nice way to potentially bond with your daughter, but first of all, is she interested in this type of stuff? Is this something that she wants? If it isn't, this project could be something that breeds resentment rather than bonding. I think she'd be interested in it because she's always curious when I get tools out for anything. Obviously before spending several thousand dollars we will discuss it with her because forcing a teenager to do something with you for hours every week that they don't want to do sounds like a special form of hell for the adult. As for driving it, well, probably to school and back and around town. I wouldn't be sending her down the freeway for long distances in it or anything. But I'm also from a family where driving a 20 or 30 year old car is pretty normal. I get that older cars aren't as safe as newer cars. I dunno, maybe it should be a weekend cruiser or something. Maybe I can give the the title when she goes off to college.
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Nov 9, 2020 17:26
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therobit posted:My daughter will be 12 in about a year. My wife has decided that I should restore an old/classic car with her to be ready when she's 16. I can do basic mechanical tasks like changing oils, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, change out a radiator, but I have little experience with engine internals. The idea here is to have a project here for father-daighter time, end up with a cool car, and teach her basic car repair and maintenance along the way. My father in law has some auto body experience and all the tools to repair and paint panels, although I would ideally start with something where ther is nothing completely rusted through in the visible parts of the car. Will your daughter ever need to drive on a road with a speed limit >45MPH Y/N? If you want something rock-solid reliable and relatively safe with ready parts availability but needing some love go find a 98-02 Acura TL with manual trans. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 17:36
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I mean, that's a feature, not a bug. The idea is to rebuild a cool old car. The 2000 Acura is a little too new for that and I'm not young enough to think it looks cool and retro.
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Nov 9, 2020 17:38
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I have the rabbit truck and while fun as hell, "Ok you really really need to hit at least 85 by the bottom of this hill so you have enough inertia to make it up the next one without shifting into third on the interstate and also slow down on this flat stretch so the cruise-control 18 wheeler in front of you pulls away and leaves you enough runway to do that" isn't the kind of energy management I would want to be teaching a first time teen driver. These are, with no exaggeration, dangerously underpowered vehicles on today's roads. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 17:44
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