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SilvergunSuperman posted:AI, should I!? (not my car, just same colour/ridiculous spoiler combo) 100% yes.
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Nov 5, 2020 17:33
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Always louvre if given the choice
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Nov 5, 2020 22:30
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Louvre the one you're with.
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Nov 6, 2020 12:21
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wesleywillis posted:Louvre the one you're with. 
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Nov 6, 2020 19:03
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98-01 Accord coupe with louvers?  My crotch is very confused.
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Nov 6, 2020 19:24
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STR posted:98-01 Accord coupe with louvers? See how theres nothing sticking up through those tiny holes though? Thats probably a set for a 94-04 mustang just sitting on top. e: Looks exactly like this set:  As resident louver guy its really a pretty awful set of louvers and I don't care for em. Cage fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Nov 6, 2020 |
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Nov 6, 2020 19:27
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Was gonna say, they look very wrong on that car (aside from it being a 00s Accord with louvers). It's like they got the curvature of the back window right, but nothing else.
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Nov 6, 2020 19:38
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Nov 6, 2020 23:39
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Yes that can kill the battery. Hard on the alternator too.
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Nov 7, 2020 00:15
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C-Bangin' it 
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Nov 7, 2020 01:02
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Get a battery tender solar panel and the adaptor plug for either the cigarette lighter/power port or the OBDII port. Put the solar panel on the dash, plug in the cable, enjoy a maintained battery with no external power.
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Nov 7, 2020 01:08
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GOD IS BED posted:Get a battery tender solar panel and the adaptor plug for either the cigarette lighter/power port or the OBDII port. Put the solar panel on the dash, plug in the cable, enjoy a maintained battery with no external power. I did this when my battery was getting weak a couple of years ago and it worked great. The little solar panel kept it topped up despite driving it infrequently. I did eventually have to get a new battery but it was because it was 7 years old and had suffered through an alternator failure and getting low a few times already.
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Nov 7, 2020 01:58
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GOD IS BED posted:Get a battery tender solar panel and the adaptor plug for either the cigarette lighter/power port or the OBDII port. Put the solar panel on the dash, plug in the cable, enjoy a maintained battery with no external power. You have a recommendation? I could use one. Im barely driving my car these days.
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Nov 7, 2020 02:20
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Sounds like what I need. Thanks.
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Nov 7, 2020 04:58
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Does anyone have any bulb replacement/upgrade advice? The 2011 KIA Forte I daily has awful, squint-in-the-dark headlamps. I googled around and found a bunch of replacements in LED or HID or Xenon flavours but I dont really know what Im looking at. (Do people even use HID anymore?) Im pretty sure my stock ones are halogen, which is normal? If anyone has a brand/type they like, Im all ears. E: partsource seems to suggest these guys: https://www.partsource.ca/products/h11bsu-bp-h11b-sylvania-silverstar-ultra-headlight-bulb-1-pk?_pos=16&_sid=113ded763&_ss=r a primate fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Nov 7, 2020 |
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Nov 7, 2020 18:41
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How yellowed are the housings? A quick polish makes a huge difference. Any yellowing or hazing will reduce (and scatter) your light output significantly. Otherwise, unless your car was offered with factory HIDs on a different trim, or you feel like building custom headlamp assemblies (basically grafing HID projectors into your existing housings), you're stuck with halogen. Osram Nightbreaker bulbs are a bit brighter, and still halogen. If you use 9005 and/or 9006 bulbs for your lows/highs, you can swap them for 9011 or 9012, respectively. That's the GM "HIR" bulb replacement (though technology caught up enough that they don't rely on "HIR" tech anymore - it's just a different filament and gas fill inside the bulb now). You need to slightly trim one mounting tab on the bulbs. They do cost a bit more. Google 9005 to HIR to see what you have to do to make them fit (it's literally just cutting off a small portion of one tab). If your rear suspension is starting to sag, or you often have a lot of weight in the back, adjusting the headlights down slightly may also help. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Nov 7, 2020 |
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Nov 7, 2020 18:56
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STR posted:How yellowed are the housings? A quick polish makes a huge difference. Any yellowing or hazing will reduce (and scatter) your light output significantly. Thanks, Ill look into those. No yellowing or scratches, surprisingly - the housings have aged very well. Are LEDs a possibility? I know some of them come with the components necessary to step down the voltage built into the assembly but I havent seen any reputable brands so Im a bit leery. a primate fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Nov 7, 2020 |
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Nov 7, 2020 19:17
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None of them are legal for use in a halogen housing. Same with HID conversions. Unless you're somehow retrofitting a complete projector system and the complete system is certified for highway use (rare). You're going to either blind the gently caress out of everyone around you, barely get any light where you want it, or most likely, both of these. Moving the light source even 1-2mmwithin the reflector throws the optics hilariously off. Now if you already have projector headlamps (I don't think you do), you can get away with a bit more, but it'd still not be legal, strictly speaking. I've been nailed with a $500 "illegal equipment" ticket for having tinted halogen bulbs before (back in the height of the ricer days - late 90s/early 00s), so YMMV. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Nov 7, 2020 |
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Nov 7, 2020 19:25
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skipdogg posted:You have a recommendation? I could use one. Im barely driving my car these days. Of the three random solar chargers I have only one has given me trouble and that could have been my fault. I threw a cheapo random amazon one in a farm truck and its kept the battery topped up with a year between starts, a different cheapo random one drained the battery down on a different truck I left parked all last winter but that could have been because it was left parked facing north. I like the PIAA bulbs or the GE Nighthawks, they last way longer than the silverstars. The LED ones are nice and bright but blind everyone else and the drivers can put out tons of RF interference, also probably illegal.
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Nov 7, 2020 19:58
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I have 2020 Ford Escape that has shutdown on the highway twice. Both times the vehicle had been on the road for about 3 hours. It's been to a dealership twice now to get fixed (this is the second visit). I looked up Lemon Laws and where I'm at its three strikes and I can claim lemon. The thing is, I bought it in TN but live in AR. Would anyone know what states law it would fall under?
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Nov 7, 2020 21:27
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skipdogg posted:You have a recommendation? I could use one. Im barely driving my car these days. This is the one I sell at my store and is what I'd recommend (https://www.batterytender.com/5-Watt-Solar-Tender-Charger-With-Built-in-Controller), but as long as you can get an OBDII (https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-Tender-OBDII-Accessory-Cable) or cigarette lighter adaptor (https://www.batterytender.com/Cigarette-Plug-Accessory-Cable), almost any panel will work fine.
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Nov 8, 2020 17:46
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Does it really work inside the glass?
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Nov 8, 2020 17:56
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Charles posted:Does it really work inside the glass? Yeah they work inside glass. Glass will cut down UV but not visible light, generally. I just put mine up on the dash when I parked it in the driveway.
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Nov 8, 2020 20:41
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Can I get a sanity check on flood titles? I'm looking at a car (2008 Corvette) with a rebuilt title. Owner states the car was driven through a puddle, hydrolocked the engine and the insurance company wrote it off. Engine was replaced and reportedly all is well now. I probably could have guessed it, but Carfax does report a flood title. Does any of this story check out? I've always thought of flood titles more as a standing water thing and have heard of poorly designed cold air intakes doing exactly what's described but never would have expected a flood title to come as a result. Is now the time to walk away and keep searching, or might this be the perfect starting point for a car intended for racing, fun and general abuse?
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Nov 9, 2020 19:17
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The story is plausible and "flood title" means "damaged by water" which, yes, a hydrolocked car would be. *In theory* if the car was towed out of the water / never really got soaked too bad other than popping the engine, it'd be fine. But with a branded title like that I'd be looking for a major discount, and I'd be crawling through the carpet looking very closely for any signs of mud/water intrusion there.
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Nov 9, 2020 19:23
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I mean... insurance paid for a (used) engine on my Civic when I hydrolocked the engine. Admittedly the car was only 5 years old at the time and in pretty good shape otherwise. I can't see insurance writing off a Corvette over that unless there was either a lot more damage, or it had just depreciated too much to be worth an engine swap. And my crappy insurance refused to replace the carpet (I had some water in the car). Thankfully there weren't really any electronics under the seats. That "puddle" came up over the hood if it popped the motor - the stock intake sticks relatively high up, IIRC it's basically on top of the radiator. So yeah, I'd be pulling carpet and checking for any signs of water intrusion (surface rust on interior bolts is pretty damning), looking at any electronic modules to make sure they haven't been tampered with/replaced, etc. I'd also be very curious to see what engine actually wound up in the car - it's very likely a truck engine, may or may not be the same displacement, and will definitely be a bit heavier (the truck engines are iron block vs aluminum). It's dead simple to flash the engine computer to run any GM V8 from the same generation. If you're already planning on turning it into a track car, fine (since almost all of that is coming out anyway), but for a daily driver, flood and fire branded titles scare the poo poo out of me. And like IoC said... it shouldn't sell remotely close to market value. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 19:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:The story is plausible and "flood title" means "damaged by water" which, yes, a hydrolocked car would be. It's not exactly being given away, but it is the cheapest LS3 era Vette in the AZ area by a few grand. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/434442050898737/ I wouldn't be able to make the drive to Tucson until the weekend anyways, so this problem might just solve itself by then. I could overlook cosmetic stuff like carpet (all the more reason to gut the interior) but electronic gremlins give me pause.
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Nov 9, 2020 20:00
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Electrical gremlins are the biggest issue you'll run into with flood damage, unless it was truly a "popped the engine, tow truck that just happened to be right there yanked it out of the water immediately, no water got inside the car" situation. They sit low enough to the ground that a puddle deep enough to submarine the intake means the water was high enough to get inside the car if the doors got opened (some would have seeped in anyway, even if the driver climbed out through the window and never opened the doors). You said you pulled a Carfax, so you have the VIN. Google the VIN and see what turns up, I'm betting it'll pop up on some auction websites, which may or may not have better pictures of how it looked before it got cleaned up. e: you may also have trouble getting more than just liability insurance on it randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 20:04
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STR posted:Electrical gremlins are the biggest issue you'll run into with flood damage, unless it was truly a "popped the engine, tow truck that just happened to be right there yanked it out of the water immediately, no water got inside the car" situation. Unfortunately Google didn't give me anything other than other VIN check sites. No real info on what the salvager did via Carfax either. https://pdfhost.io/v/L2JkAtdqG_CARFAX_Vehicle_History_Report_for_this_CHEVROLET_CORVETTE__1G1YY26W385108476.pdf Figure I should probably assume the swapped motor has a million miles and may or may not actually be an LS3 (would verify casting numbers if I were to bother to check it out).
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Nov 9, 2020 20:17
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Sienna on BFG KO2 A/T tires. I nicked the sidewall while offroading. Basically in the middle of the sidewall, not near tread or the bead. It was a small nick, and only leaked air when parked with the nick near the bottom. So I put a temp plug in (gooey string), it's been totally fine for a few weeks, including more offroading. But I've heard patching the sidewall is bad, and that temp plugs are bad (or at least temporary). What is the failure mode, here? Just that it'll start leaking again and I'll get a flat? Or is there some more dangerous possibility? (The van is used mostly for offroading trips. I check tire pressures before each trip and generally air down offroad, so I am definitely keeping an eye out for leaking. I don't think I'll get into a situation where I'm driving to work every day with one tire at 25 psi because I never check it.)
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Nov 9, 2020 20:35
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WTFBEES posted:Unfortunately Google didn't give me anything other than other VIN check sites. No real info on what the salvager did via Carfax either. So the pros: it's been 4 years since it was put back on the road. Mechanically, it's probably fine, though as we both brought up, there's no telling what engine is really in it (I'd bet on it being the 6.2 truck engine, which is a solid motor and a direct swap after you swap manifolds, but it's going to make it a lot heavier up front due to being an iron block engine - it's also a shitload easier to find, and the stock Corvette PCM should run it without any changes). Cons: that thing has been passed around like the village bicycle. 6 owners?! (I know Carfax sometimes reports someone moving to a new state as a new "owner", sometimes even to a new county - in fact that's what looks like happened with owners #3 and #4, it looks like #3 moved to Arizona with it and it wound up becoming "owner #4" when they just transferred the title to AZ). Reports of electrical problems on the Carfax since it was put back on the road. Multiple owners since it was "repaired". It was written off at 8 years old, when it would have still been worth enough for insurance to fix if it was really just the engine. It was off of the road for what appears to be a year and a half (though it looks like a year of that was spent just waiting on a salvage title? possibly 3-4 months getting repaired after being sold at auction?), so it very likely had a shitload more damage than what they're disclosing. Oh, it's also an Ohio car originally, so you're going to run into some level of rust. Hopefully just enough to make replacing some undercarriage parts a bit more of a pain, but it did come from a salt state. (e: there's not much steel on these except on fasteners and suspension parts, some iron with the brakes... so not a whole lot to rust, but enough to make removing fasteners a pain in the dick) I would say run hard and fast, except in this case, I would hop on a plane and fly as far away as possible from this thing. This is just what Carfax actually knows; independent shops don't normally report to Carfax/Autocheck. It's definitely not worth what they're asking for it - even if they had every receipt of everything that's been done, and photos of before/after, I'd walk. And I've owned my share of salvage cars.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 20:36
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STR posted:So the pros: it's been 4 years since it was put back on the road. Mechanically, it's probably fine, though as we both brought up, there's no telling what engine is really in it (I'd bet on it being the 6.2 truck engine, which is a solid motor and a direct swap after you swap manifolds, but it's going to make it a lot heavier up front due to being an iron block engine - it's also a shitload easier to find, and the stock Corvette PCM should run it without any changes). Yeah, I think that's enough for me. Back to searching I go. Appreciate all the input!
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Nov 9, 2020 20:39
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Holy gently caress they're smoking some good poo poo with that price, especially because it was originally $20k. I know the C5's interior is Absolutely Worse but you can get a minty-clean C5, maybe even a high-mileage C5Z, in the same price bracket as that car and be infinitely better off for a track toy. There's one on CL in Scottsdale claiming its own questionable emissions bullshit for $15k. Possibly even a clean base C6. The fact that it had two fails and then a pass all in the span of 30 minutes on its most recent emissions test is also pretty telling, when one of them was failed for "no communication" between the emissions system and the car. You can pop the VIN into http://65.82.88.75/myazcar/histinq.exe/muinput - yes that's the real URL - and see the emissions history of anything that's been sniffed in AZ in the past ~15 years. Edit: Buy this minty C4 and post all about it so I don't have to ryanrs posted:Sienna on BFG KO2 A/T tires. As far as I know the reason sidewalls (and shoulders) don't get patched by any reputable shop is because they flex too much for a patch to be reliable, and that's the part of the tire that's actually doing the work in holding the load. Plenty of offroaders have patched far worse in a sidewall to get off the trail, but it's a different story if you're also relying on that tire to get you home on the highway. The worst case, and not entirely improbable, is a structural failure of the tire resulting in a blowout at speed. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 20:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's one on CL in Scottsdale claiming its own questionable emissions bullshit for $15k. Possibly even a clean base C6. The fact that it had two fails and then a pass all in the span of 30 minutes on its most recent emissions test is also pretty telling, when one of them was failed for "no communication" between the emissions system and the car. Aw, inspector's first "naughty" inspection where they got an extra  to pass it.  My old Civic had 3 fails in a 45 minute span, followed by a pass, but that was when even OBD2 was still getting a sniff test (and before you could look up inspections online, though the fails did show on Carfax). It had a bad catalytic converter, the inspector said he knew it could get it to pass if I didn't mind him loving with it a bit... we dicked with the timing a lot, drove the poo poo out of it banging the rev limiter nonstop to get what was left of the cat good and hot, and it finally passed (barely.. I don't remember the numbers, but the CO was within 1% of failing, HC was up there since we retarded the hell out of the timing too). Didn't pay anything extra, he was determined to make it pass (also we were both Honda kids, I had tools on me, distributor took quite a beating with nonstop timing-by-ear adjustments). That was before TX would fail you over the CEL being lit (it was spitting out P0420, natch). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 21:08
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I keep going back and forth between C5 Z06 and base or Z51 C6 and am more or less open to either at this point. I've spent enough time inside GM products to disregard the interior and just pretend everything is fine. If I shop for long enough I might just abandon all reason and go C6 Z06. To be seen there. Haven't really considered the C4 but man is that one pretty. TPI though. 
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Nov 9, 2020 23:53
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ryanrs posted:I nicked the sidewall while offroading. Basically in the middle of the sidewall, not near tread or the bead. It was a small nick, and only leaked air when parked with the nick near the bottom. Absolutely never again take that on the road. The failure mode is the entire sidewall blowing out, probably more likely to happen during road/highway driving with heat buildup. The fact that it holds air again is irrelevant, as the structural damage has already been done. No reputable shop will patch a sidewall using any method of patching, no sane state safety inspection would allow that vehicle to pass.
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Nov 10, 2020 00:16
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McPherson Strut suspension: can the main strut nut being tightened too much cause spring binding? I got some new aftermarket offset strut mounts from Jamal earlier this year and when I turn to about 1.5 rotations I get popping and grinding which indicates spring binding from what I can tell. I'd like to try anything I can before taking the mounts off and sending them back for replacement because this is my DD at this point, and also by far my better snow car and winter is here. It's happening on both sides, and I did get a bit impact-happy with this job because I had never had anything more powerful than a breaker bar before and being able to blast sticky nuts/bolts off within a couple seconds rather than a full minute was life-changing. I don't remember 100% but I'm pretty sure I used the impact on the main strut bolts because one time doing the strut mounts I under-torqued one of the bolts and thankfully nothing happened but some rattling because I tracked it down fast, but I didn't want that happening again.
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Nov 10, 2020 00:39
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STR posted:Aw, inspector's first "naughty" inspection where they got an extra That reminds me of taking my 65 Fury / 383 to state inspection in Cherry Hill in 1986. It was towards the end of the day and the facility was empty. I failed emissions/sniff. Drove it out to a side lot, de-tuned the Carter AFB, ran it through again. Fail. De-tuned it more, & advanced the timing. Ran like poo poo and smelled like barely-burnt fuel, but when it passed on the third try in 20-minutes, the whole DMV inspection crew came out and gave me a standing O. and the guy slapped a sticker on it while muttering, "Good for another year!"
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Nov 10, 2020 00:57
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I'm really going to live up to the "Stupid" part of this threads name, but is it possible/easy to convert an electric throttle cable back to a real one? I have a 2006 Mazda 3 that appears to have drive by wire (it says it in some of the dealership materials) and it's honestly one of the biggest things I hate about the car. If it was an option for this car, would that mean it's relatively simple to switch to a regular throttle cable, or would I have to mess with stuff above my pay grade to get it to work (like ECU stuff)?
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Nov 10, 2020 01:10
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DildenAnders posted:I'm really going to live up to the "Stupid" part of this threads name, but is it possible/easy to convert an electric throttle cable back to a real one? I have a 2006 Mazda 3 that appears to have drive by wire (it says it in some of the dealership materials) and it's honestly one of the biggest things I hate about the car. If it was an option for this car, would that mean it's relatively simple to switch to a regular throttle cable, or would I have to mess with stuff above my pay grade to get it to work (like ECU stuff)? You can safely put this out of your mind as any sort of reasonable possibility. It may be possible to get the throttle pedal remapped by an aftermarket tuner.
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Nov 10, 2020 01:14
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