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Jaded Burnout posted:Dunno! Maybe most of our housing stock was already built, and once we were rebuilding post-war it's all brick and concrete. I think Americans bought up all the old British tools to sell to hand tool nuts over here. The British never quite got on the metal plane thing nearly as much as Americans did and wooden planes don’t seem to survive as well as cast iron. PAX is a decent manufacturer of real hand saws and they make a rip saw. They’re in Sheffield I believe and not particularly cheap, but also not heinously expensive last I checked. A bandsaw is definitely the machine for resawing.
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Nov 14, 2020 22:14
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Jaded Burnout posted:Speaking of trees, did you know that sharks are older than trees? Not like, individually, but as a thing on the earth. I think the answer is staring you in the face, and you know you really want to do it. serious gaylord posted:I'm in the market for a reasonable 'entry level' bandsaw after a bonus from work. Needs to be something I can buy in the UK too, and bench mounted for space reasons. Bhyo there's a Chinese import here called Rikon which is a lot of value for the outlay. Idk if it's badged under a different name there or the same, but there's others itt beside me that are happy with it.
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Nov 14, 2020 22:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:PAX is a decent manufacturer of real hand saws and they make a rip saw. They’re in Sheffield I believe and not particularly cheap, but also not heinously expensive last I checked. That was one of the "specialty shops" that came up when I was a-lookin'. Sheffield-based is usually a good sign for steel products. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A bandsaw is definitely the machine for resawing. Mr. Mambold posted:I think the answer is staring you in the face, and you know you really want to do it. Not any time soon I'm afraid.
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Nov 14, 2020 22:39
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serious gaylord posted:I'm in the market for a reasonable 'entry level' bandsaw after a bonus from work. Needs to be something I can buy in the UK too, and bench mounted for space reasons. Look for old two-wheeled INCA benchtop bandsaws on ebay and the like. They are more common in the UK than the US and the quality and precision on those saws is high.
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Nov 14, 2020 23:22
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Ugh I’m trying to flatten a board for a table top. It’s supposed to be 3/4 inch. I’ve been trying to get at a dip in the middle and realized I’ve made it thinner. I’m not sure if I should just go with it and have a thin top or save the board for something else and go get new material.
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Nov 14, 2020 23:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think Americans bought up all the old British tools to sell to hand tool nuts over here. The British never quite got on the metal plane thing nearly as much as Americans did and wooden planes don’t seem to survive as well as cast iron. PAX is a decent manufacturer of real hand saws and they make a rip saw. They’re in Sheffield I believe and not particularly cheap, but also not heinously expensive last I checked. I can see this. I read somewhere that Americans have bought up so much authentic Irish knick knacks to put in Irish pubs that people in Ireland import new product from around the world, then sell it on as being technically "from Ireland".
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Nov 15, 2020 00:41
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GEMorris posted:Look for old two-wheeled INCA benchtop bandsaws on ebay and the like. They are more common in the UK than the US and the quality and precision on those saws is high. Theres one of these about 15 miles from me but its 'spares or repair' as the table top has been bent in transport. Theres a used one of the below close by for £150. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cbs250b-250mm-woodworking-band-saw-incl/ It looks like a standard make that gets rebranded to whatever company is selling it. I think for the money its worthwhile? Anyone think its rubbish?
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Nov 15, 2020 10:05
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If it's big enough those are fine.
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Nov 15, 2020 10:30
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Jaded Burnout posted:So, I found a decent-looking 22" (max size) 7tpi (min teeth) handsaw that had at least one review saying it works well for ripping (60% were people cutting up oak sleepers for the garden) and I'll go pick that up, give it a go. So about 3 hours later I got through it. This saw was a little more aggressive and about 3x faster, so not a wasted purchase. Thanks folks.
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Nov 15, 2020 15:08
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I've been sorting out drill bits as I had a (maybe slightly unreasonable) number floating around.  It's not pretty, but it should work. I've run into a stupid mystery I'm hoping someone can solve, as Google isn't helping. Does anyone know what these are actually called? 
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Nov 15, 2020 16:08
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They look kinda like end mills?
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Nov 15, 2020 16:13
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Wallet posted:I've run into a stupid mystery I'm hoping someone can solve, as Google isn't helping. Does anyone know what these are actually called? Looks like an Auger Bit, but someone broke off the tip
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Nov 15, 2020 16:13
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Spear & Jackson do decent enough handsaws as well, with wooden handles and re-sharpenable. I've used their 24" 7 point ripsaw a bunch, and apart from really benefitting from a good sharpening right out the box, it was thoroughly acceptable. Used to be somewhere between 30-40 euros, but I have no idea how or if the pandemic affected price/availability. The Record Power BS250 I'm less enthusiastic about. It says it's about a 1/2 HP machine, but in practice that's more of a geriatric screw with 3 hoofs in the glue factory rather than virile plow horse HP. Soft stuff like spruce it can deal with, but 2"ish thick beech, ash, or cherry, not so much. Mostly makes really distressing noises, if not stalling outright, even with a brand new blade. Resawing (for which I actually got it) feels like a bridge too far, so I haven't bothered with it much. It just lacks the oomph to do most of what I want out of a bandsaw.
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Nov 15, 2020 16:17
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I bought the Bandsaw. Got it down to 130 as there was some surface rust from where it had been stored in a shed on the table which has wiped straight off. Thing was brand new. Must have been run for maybe 2 hours max.
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Nov 15, 2020 17:48
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So I was looking up ways to make a good chess board and I stumbled onto something really awesome. This guy goes through the entire process of making a chess board in his woodshop using his miter saw, table saw, and planer. The interesting part is....he is entirely blind! He feels out everything by touch, and has a talking tape measure! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t39s4k7VmEM Rutibex fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Nov 15, 2020 |
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Nov 15, 2020 20:14
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Rutibex posted:Looks like an Auger Bit, but someone broke off the tip Yeah, it does, but they definitely haven't been broken/ground.
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Nov 15, 2020 21:00
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NomNomNom posted:They look kinda like end mills? Yes. serious gaylord posted:I bought the Bandsaw. Got it down to 130 as there was some surface rust from where it had been stored in a shed on the table which has wiped straight off. Thing was brand new. Must have been run for maybe 2 hours max. Nice. Rutibex posted:So I was looking up ways to make a good chess board and I stumbled onto something really awesome. This guy goes through the entire process of making a chess board in his woodshop using his miter saw, table saw, and planer. The interesting part is....he is entirely blind! He feels out everything by touch, and has a talking tape measure! Jesus Christ!
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Nov 16, 2020 01:03
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Got a little bored since I'm pretty much done work for the season and it's getting too cold to work in the garage. I have been toying with the idea of making cabinets to sell, and found a design that I really liked that I decided to mock up in Sketchup. I've designed it so that 90% of the structural stuff is made of 1x2" with various 1/4" grooves to hold plywood in the sides and back. I've been trying to made the structure as minimalist as possible, but I'm sure I've overengineered it to some degree. Original picture that inspired me.  My sketchup with the easy to access build on the left, and the filled in version on the right.  *the indented handles for the sliding doors are on the wrong side. . . sort of since you can slide them, but ideally they would be on the outside edges of the cabinet if they were closed. I also simplified the top glass sliding doors because. . . who has time for that? My next step is to copy and remove the various parts, sort them, record their dimensions, and make some sort of checklist for easy fabrication. The endgame is to be able to set up an assembly line of sorts, so that I can start mass producing them. I've talked to several people, and they all love the design and indicated that $900-1100 would be the price they would expect to pay for something like that. It's not finished, nor perfect, but feel free to check it out and fool around or build your own version if you want. If you have any suggestions or alterations, feel free to repost your improved version. sketchup file: https://gofile.io/d/u7g8nB Blistex fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Nov 16, 2020 |
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Nov 16, 2020 22:19
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That’s a really cool cabinet. I especially love the pull out shelf for setting things on while moving things around or putting away dishes and things. I like your simpler window design, but I also liked the tiled version too. It would be a winner either way. I have a hutch I really like already, or I might just try to make that for myself. Post pictures when you’re doing it, I’d be interested in seeing more about your process.
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Nov 16, 2020 22:44
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Super-minor project I banged together over the weekend: a shelf for my spice cabinet, which has been crammed full for years. Finally realized that there was nothing stopping me from customizing the interiors of my cabinets. Materials are cherry and walnut, finished with 2 coats of "The Good Stuff". Why do so many spices start with the letter "C"?
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Nov 16, 2020 23:15
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Rutibex posted:So I was looking up ways to make a good chess board and I stumbled onto something really awesome. This guy goes through the entire process of making a chess board in his woodshop using his miter saw, table saw, and planer. The interesting part is....he is entirely blind! He feels out everything by touch, and has a talking tape measure! My friend George is a blind woodworker and he runs classes for other blind folks. His website doesn't have a lot of his art/furniture which is a bummer because he makes the most aesthetically coherent pieces I know and is god drat lumber hound http://www.gmwurtzel.com/newest-work
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Nov 17, 2020 02:56
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Blistex posted:I've talked to several people, and they all love the design and indicated that $900-1100 would be the price they would expect to pay for something like that. I too would love to buy handcrafted furniture for prices cheaper than I would see at WorldMarket or HomeGoods. Your price is too low by at least half imo.
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Nov 17, 2020 16:29
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GEMorris posted:I too would love to buy handcrafted furniture for prices cheaper than I would see at WorldMarket or HomeGoods. A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush as they say. If he has people willing to pay $1100, and he works out a good process for mass production he could get a decent return for his time. There are a lot of middle men taking a cut from mass produced furniture, so the price has to reflect that. $2000 might be a more fair price, but if you can't find a buyer its the same as $0. I suppose it would come down to how valuable your time is otherwise. If I was working a minimum wage job I would jump at the opportunity to sell $1100 cabinets.
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Nov 17, 2020 16:45
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Blistex posted:
However, GEMorris posted:I too would love to buy handcrafted furniture for prices cheaper than I would see at WorldMarket or HomeGoods. Idk the dimensions but just eyeballing it I’d figure on $250-300 in materials by the time you get hardware, hinges, glass, paint/finish, consumable shop supplies and 30-40 labor hours at least by the time you get it sanded, painted, glazed, doors/drawers all fit. My basic, from the hip estimating rule is $200 minimum for each door or drawer (or any other moving part-they are the hard parts)to get one built, sanded, finished, and fit, and that’s served relatively well as a baseline. Then figure the basic cabinet box. To make custom cabinets/furniture, you basically have to work at the very high end of the market because the middle/lower end is used to factory/import prices and you can’t compete with them on price (but you can compete on quality, customization, etc). Everyone always wants the thing until you ask for a deposit! I’m not at all trying to discourage you, just giving my view. If someone walked in with that drawing and that price point I’d laugh them out of the shop, but doing it for fun and beer money in your garage is a completely different ball game. Jim Tolpin has written a few good books on cabinetmaking with a view to optimizing time/efficiency to do it profitably that might be of interest to you. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Nov 17, 2020 |
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Nov 17, 2020 17:04
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Rutibex posted:I suppose it would come down to how valuable your time is otherwise. If I was working a minimum wage job I would jump at the opportunity to sell $1100 cabinets. You're assuming you wouldn't be making less than minimum wage selling those $1100 cabinets.
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Nov 17, 2020 17:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You're assuming you wouldn't be making less than minimum wage selling those $1100 cabinets. Your hourly wage would be a factor of how efficient your production process is, so you could improve your pay by working smarter/harder. I personally find that a lot more appealing that working for a set wage, where your boss gains the money if you work more efficiently. But yeah, you are correct. It would come down to some math; you would need to figure out the materiel costs of each cabinet and how long it takes you to make one before you can calculate if it is worth your time.
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Nov 17, 2020 17:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You're assuming you wouldn't be making less than minimum wage selling those $1100 cabinets. 1900's +- design, that's drat good money for then.
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Nov 17, 2020 18:00
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Check out what I found trolling amazon warehouse deals. Why yes, I will have this solid piece of aluminum for 50% off because the packaging is damaged. Now my boxes will have the fanciest corners!  
Rutibex fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Nov 17, 2020 |
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Nov 17, 2020 19:12
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Some really good feedback, thanks. Price: With the exception of plywood, all my wood is free, and I cut my own glass. The price is probably reliant on the path I take building wise, and demand in my area. As my process is refined and quality increases, maybe that will allow me to charge more (assuming the demand is there). Build: Right now the design is basically a pocket hole build, but I'm also going to sketch up a M&T version as well. (It's still a work in progress). The 1/2" shell with decorative panelling is a good idea for a quick and dirty version that would go together fast, and might sell at the lower price point, but the endgame is to make an actual high quality, jointed version. Time: I'm pretty much done working for the year, and this is something that I want to do during the winter months to keep busy. I'm not planning on making a living off of it, I just want to keep busy and hone my skills. . . and maybe make some extra money. Edit: TLDR, even if each cabinet ended up making no profit, or even costing me money, in the end, I'd probably still make them. Blistex fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Nov 17, 2020 |
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Nov 17, 2020 19:15
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Rutibex posted:
E: Blistex posted:Some really good feedback, thanks. The idea that a 'real' mortise and tenoned frame/panel is 'better/higher quality' is a trap I fall into myself. A solid plywood panel with trim applied is strong af and stronger than a real frame/panel. In the case fo your design, a plywood box with biscuited together faceframe is probably stronger than stick building it with M&T. As woodworkers we care about the joinery, but IME most customers don't know the difference or don't care and that's time we could have spent on something else and still had an equally happy customer. That's not to say the thing isn't worth doing for the joy of the maker and the satisfaction of having done it 'right.' I only cut the pins of my dovetails by machine because I can't get the fine dovetails I like if both parts are cut in a jig. It takes extra time and I don't know if a customer has ever noticed, but it feels 'right' to me and I think it's worth doing even though machine cut, equal pins/tails dovetails are probably stronger. E2: Blistex posted:Edit: TLDR, even if each cabinet ended up making no profit, or even costing me money, in the end, I'd probably still make them. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Nov 17, 2020 |
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Nov 17, 2020 19:16
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Even if you're somehow getting unlimited free wood, it's not really free if you have to store it and pick through it and dispose of scraps. I'd still attach some kind of base price to the wood as a materials cost.
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Nov 17, 2020 19:24
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Leperflesh posted:Even if you're somehow getting unlimited free wood, it's not really free if you have to store it and pick through it and dispose of scraps. I'd still attach some kind of base price to the wood as a materials cost. Yeah, especially if it's janky pallet wood or something. A good 70% of my time is getting it into a presentable shape. I don't mind, because I am cheap and I enjoy the idea of recycling. But if I went down to the Home Depot or wherever and bought proper wood it would make my projects much faster.
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Nov 17, 2020 19:29
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Anyone done any of the jigs to turn your lathe into a thickness\drum sander? I don't really want a thickness sander taking up room in the shop, but I want to do some bent laminations and I d like the ability to thickness sand. Anyone wanna make recommendations or talk me out of it?
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Nov 17, 2020 19:40
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bobua posted:Anyone done any of the jigs to turn your lathe into a thickness\drum sander? I don't really want a thickness sander taking up room in the shop, but I want to do some bent laminations and I d like the ability to thickness sand. Anyone wanna make recommendations or talk me out of it? A safety planer in the drill press isn't necessarily any safer, but it might do what you need if you are using narrow stock: https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...=All%20Products Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Nov 17, 2020 |
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Nov 17, 2020 19:44
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Rutibex posted:Yeah, especially if it's janky pallet wood or something. A good 70% of my time is getting it into a presentable shape. I don't mind, because I am cheap and I enjoy the idea of recycling. But if I went down to the Home Depot or wherever and bought proper wood it would make my projects much faster. I have property with hard and softwood and a sawmill, so scrounging for wood isn't a problem. Last month I milled enough spruce to do all the studding in the house I am building and cut enough ash to do the main floor. Also pallets are full of nails, gravel, and sometimes mystery chemicals that you don't want to fool around with. I'm legitimately touched that the DIY goons are looking out for my financial security, but I was more interested in build advise like Kaiser was giving me.
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Nov 17, 2020 20:11
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Rutibex posted:Check out what I found trolling amazon warehouse deals. Why yes, I will have this solid piece of aluminum for 50% off because the packaging is damaged. Now my boxes will have the fanciest corners! jealous!
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Nov 17, 2020 20:30
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Blistex posted:I'm legitimately touched that the DIY goons are looking out for my financial security, but I was more interested in build advise like Kaiser was giving me. It’s definitely good to get to the end of a project and feel like your get out something commensurate to the time and materials spent. If your price hits the target for you then that’s awesome. Even better when you enjoy the milling and work. So maybe it’s a little about the money, but mostly about not feeling like it just wasn’t worth all the effort. There’s nothing so demoralizing as that. I’m looking at replacing a kitchen full of cabinets and am going to need to learn this cabinet construction stuff myself, so it’s interesting to me to see the discussion about how and why you do certain things when building. So I’m just going to steal all the advise you’re getting and use it for myself too.
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Nov 17, 2020 20:50
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Blistex posted:
It looks like the original is actually two pieces, the top just sits on the base. Looking at your render it looks like you have it as one monolithic piece, hard to tell. If so, I would stick with keeping it as two pieces, as it would be easier to move and fit up stairways and around corners. Also easier to construct yourself as manhandling two smaller pieces in your shop is easier than one big piece. It does use a bit more wood, but worth the extra few boardfeet imo.
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Nov 18, 2020 02:01
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Meow Meow Meow posted:It looks like the original is actually two pieces, the top just sits on the base. Looking at your render it looks like you have it as one monolithic piece, hard to tell. If so, I would stick with keeping it as two pieces, as it would be easier to move and fit up stairways and around corners. Also easier to construct yourself as manhandling two smaller pieces in your shop is easier than one big piece. It does use a bit more wood, but worth the extra few boardfeet imo. Yeah, I was a little more concerned with strength/integrity than portability, but would definitely look into making a two-piece version. (maybe start out with just the bottom half and the customer has to pay more to "upgrade" their cabinet). Right now I'm going through the process of turning the original design into a M&T design. . . which is sort of time consuming. Once that's done I'll upload that version (with exploded parts) as well for anyone interested.
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Nov 18, 2020 04:09
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So i got 80 grit sandpaper and started flattening my plane and it's looking great... Until i check if its square to the aide of the plane, and its not - its about 0.5mm high on one side. How hosed am i? Should i start flattening again with more pressure on that side? How big a deal is it? I know I wont be able to shoot with it, which is a problem in the future I guess.
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Nov 18, 2020 05:24
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