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Steakandchips posted:After all that palaver, all the issue was that you were low on oil? Huh? The palaver was that the bike hasn’t been started in nearly a year and I was worried about undue wear on the engine.
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Dec 2, 2020 13:03
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:19 |
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 Fair enough.
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Dec 2, 2020 16:22
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So funny story since we were just on carb talk. My WR250F has been running weird lately and I've been trying to figure out what it was. It was running rich, fouling plugs. It started happening after it crapped out earlier this summer on trail and wouldn't start. I worried about valves, piston rings, clogged jets, etc I've since replaced plugs and played with fuel screw settings to no avail. I checked and shimmed my valves to spec. It started right up after fresh plugs. Rode a bit after that and still got weird performance, lots of bogging, popping, etc. Still getting black smoke, black gassy spark plug. Never had great performance for very long.  So I decided to pull the carb. Ordered a rebuild kit which comes with stock jets since the previous owner claimed it has a jd jet kit. I clearly haven't had to touch the carb in the two years I've owned it until my current issues. It rode well prior to when the issues started. The carb is a bitch to get out. Requires removing my exhaust, loosening the rear sub frame so that it can hang off the bike giving enough room to get the air box boot out of the way. Then you have to wrestle it out of the frame like a doctor delivering a baby.  Got it out, cleaned the exterior and started taking it apart. As I unscrewed the bottom bowl drain plug something fell out with it. My 170 main jet.  Son of a bitch. I'm still going to clean the carb thoroughly since it's such a bitch to get out but it's weird that it came loose at some point and was just floating around in the bottom of my carb. I never heard a rattle or anything. What surpises me is how it was still able to run ... for a while at least. The rest of the carb looked pretty good, no flakes or gunk. New o rings and gaskets will probably be a good idea while it's out. I'll also do the O ring mod to the accelerator pump linkage for better throttle response.  My rebuild kit should be here in a day or two so I'll check back when I get it all put back together.
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Dec 2, 2020 16:39
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the F stands for foul
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Dec 2, 2020 16:46
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Renaissance Robot posted:Top tip: if you never stop riding you never have to worry about the gas going bad Just another plug for ACF-50. Works super well and you can just spray stuff down (NOT YOUR BRAKES).
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Dec 2, 2020 18:26
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 PO's are wonderful people. The reason it still ran was because you just swapped the main jet, a hole, for no main jet, a much bigger hole. So you are basically just running an #infinity size main. It wouldn't have affected the bike very much down low, good demonstration of how carb behavior is dependant on throttle position, not rpm.
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Dec 2, 2020 18:29
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 PO's are a special breed and each project that goes by, I understand why people buy new dirt bikes. Motorcycles require a specific amount of maintenance and know how, dirt bikes doubly so due to their abuse which is why I don't trust POs since a lot of people see dirt bikes as toys vs actual vehicles. I don't mind wrenching because I enjoy fixing things and learning new skills but PO fuckery isn't always obvious and it can turn a standard fix into twice the work. The next owners of my 4runner or WR will be so lucky when I can show them a detailed spreadsheet of dated maintenance and repairs with miles/hours, parts etc, and all the fasteners and threads aren't stripped. And thanks for doxing the fact that I only use a small portion of my throttle. Its true, and my WR may as well be a three speed because its about all I use on most rides. Honestly though Slavvy, you're a huge resource in this forum and its always cool to see the wealth of information you share. I assume all moto mechanics hit a point where the years of huffing carb cleaner fumes eventually take its toll on your brain cells, thankfully we're not there yet.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:12
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My 83 Magna V45 was down for a couple of weeks due to a fouling issue. Plugs on one side were Champions, plugs on the other were NGKs. Went through the fuel system, filter was clear, and after letting the cylinders dry, cleaning and gapping the plugs, it fired up. I've noticed that there is an awful lot of fuel line, the stock stuff is covered with a red braided material, the other is just parts store rubber. I've wondered though, if having so much hose is detrimental to performance, as it has several turns in it to make it fit where it should. No major bends, but still, a bit more hose than I would think is needed. Any reason not to trim some excess? Also wired in a new flasher unit, since I blew the fuse and the old unit smelled like the magic smoke had escaped when I opened it. Works a charm now. Anyway, PO wiring and other bullshit aside, I'm REALLY torn on a few cosmetic things. The rear fender WAS chrome, but was repainted black. The remaining chrome is in pitted to okayish shape, and after polishing, is still a bit turd looking. Would it be completely trashy to hit the bars, front fender and side markers with a flat black to match? Or would it look too tryhard?
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Dec 3, 2020 00:44
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How much is too much? Without a picture  How trashy is too trashy? Without being inside your brain
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Dec 3, 2020 02:56
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 I was thinking of painting the front fender, the bars and maybe the side reflectors.
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Dec 3, 2020 03:14
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Reflectors are for removing not painting. If it looks worse without them, wrap them in vinyl so they don't look like utter arse. Painting bars never, ever works, it will always look like absolute garbage within a matter of weeks. It is possible to get black bars. The rest is entirely down to taste and therefore
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Dec 3, 2020 03:17
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drag bars
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Dec 3, 2020 03:19
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Ok, thanks. Maybe I'll just remove the controls and polish polish polish to try and get the small pits and lingering rusts out. May also remove some fasteners that are a bit rusty and give them a bath in PBlaster and scuff em up a bit to remove some of the rust and stuff. I've already considered getting some different bars, but I don't want to deal with new hoses and cables. I'd like some standard off road type bars, but I'm afraid it would put more weight on my wrists, which my current bars don't.  That's a screengrab from a youtube vid of a Magna with a set of bars. gileadexile fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Dec 3, 2020 |
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Dec 3, 2020 03:24
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There are more different kinds of bar than just pullbacks and dirt bike bars, they come in a huge variety of shapes and lengths. The one advantage to having a hideous 'custom' variant like yours is they have very long hoses and cables so you shouldn't need to modify anything. No bar will ever put weight on your wrists on that bike because the seat is miles lower than the triple clamp, you are always going to be sitting in a bucket reaching forwards.
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Dec 3, 2020 03:48
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gileadexile posted:
The problem is you're focused on here  When you should be looking at here 
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Dec 3, 2020 04:17
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Finger Prince posted:The problem is you're focused on here ?
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Dec 3, 2020 04:31
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To use medical terminology, you have a lumpy rear end
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Dec 3, 2020 06:51
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gileadexile posted:
I'm looking at this pic again and the bike looks quite high specced, are the reservoir shocks factory? Does it have the anti dive fork system on the left? Very typical 80's Japanese combo of potent bike + half baked easy rider stuff. I suspect it would make an for excellent proto-muscle bike if you put on a relatively wide, relatively swept but low bar. The pegs look quite mid mounted and the seat isn't that low in relation to them, if you can get the bars so your forearms are horizontal at a decent height you're in business; the pullbacks are costing you massively in terms of handling. You'd be surprised how well that bike will corner if you have the right kind of leverage.
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Dec 3, 2020 07:08
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The seat was crammed with a bit of extra stuffing from an old couch cushion, I took it back out and there's basically nothing back there now. And yeah, as far as I can tell, the suspension is all stock, not sure of what sort of shape it's in, it's cranked as tight as it goes and the PO was well north of 400lbs, but still feels very soft and bottoms out if I'm not careful. I have a bit of leakage on the front forks as well, just leaving residue on the shafts at the moment though. I assume the TRAC anti dive is still active on the front, may put a few pounds of air in them and see if they stiffen up any. Aside from a few quibbly bits, I'm very satisfied with it, fun as can be, makes great noises and the new beaded seat cover helped quite a bit, able to ride about an hour and a half now without butt burn. Had a great time tearing up a mountain road a few days ago, at a faster tick than usual when I ride with my dad, since he's on a Rebel 300, and it doesn't really get out of it's own way up that road. I don't want to be snobby, but we have some pretty great curvy back roads, I can't imagine what it's like to ride without em.
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Dec 3, 2020 08:08
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Anyone know of a good source for aftermarket switches? I just want a few buttons to control aux lights and maybe someday an ABS bypass switch.
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Dec 4, 2020 19:56
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SEKCobra posted:Anyone know of a good source for aftermarket switches? I just want a few buttons to control aux lights and maybe someday an ABS bypass switch. Digikey.com
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Dec 4, 2020 20:21
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Look here for some excellent switches: https://shop.revivalcycles.com/motorcycle-parts/electrical/switches-buttons/ I really like these ones: https://shop.revivalcycles.com/type-1-push-button-switch-housing/ Stupidly expensive, mind.
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Dec 4, 2020 20:21
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https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20201204114930&SearchText=motorcycle+handlebar+switch
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Dec 4, 2020 20:49
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Finger Prince posted:Digikey.com Sorry, I should have specified that I want to mount them to my handlebar. Steakandchips posted:Look here for some excellent switches: Something like this is what I'm looking for, but at that pricepoint I could probably buy another product and just steal the switchcomponent out of it. Jazzzzz posted:https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20201204114930&SearchText=motorcycle+handlebar+switch I looked there, but those are all terrible quality that I wouldn't be comfortable installing on my motorcycle. Some middle ground would be nice, but maybe I'll just 3D print something and figure out a way to waterproof some normal swotches.
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Dec 4, 2020 20:57
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SEKCobra posted:Sorry, I should have specified that I want to mount them to my handlebar. Sounds like the middle ground is 3d print your own housing and mount some weatherproof switches from digikey in it!
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Dec 4, 2020 22:13
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powdercoat the bars and fender if you want them to look good (probably tape the part you'll have to slide the throttle over? idk. a powdercoater who does motorcycles regularly will know.) powdercoat everything that is to be a flat color, gently caress it. the only liquid paint should be airbrushed pagan goddesses rattlecan it all black you're the true dirtbag that bike wants to be ridden by
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Dec 5, 2020 01:23
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I think some goon on here figured out where to buy the motogadget switches on aliexpress for a fraction of the price, I just wish I remember who it was or where the post was
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Dec 5, 2020 02:56
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I'm an idiot and thought I had purchased new tires this summer when it was actually last summer. I need 50% tread life for a track day, and I don't think these are there anymore (especially not the rear, maybe the front is ok). The rear is also a little squared off a bit from commuting. Replace before the track day? At least I thought of this while I still have 7 days to get it fixed. Rear:   Front: 
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Dec 6, 2020 22:25
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That front is finished, you can see the cracking inside the tread and it's level with the wear bars. The rear is probably ok. Also lean your bike more jfc what's the point of a sport bike if you just ride around in straight lines.
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Dec 6, 2020 22:32
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It gets to me the office faster?
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Dec 6, 2020 23:27
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You may get dqed based on how square they are.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:34
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I thought this was a chicken strips safe space.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:43
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It is, but some race tracks arent. I watched a friend fail tech at Road America on the supermoto course for square tires and I will never forget that shameful moment
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Dec 6, 2020 23:46
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This pair was purchased for a track day then work got busy and I did thousands of miles of freeway on them, and then I missed months of canyon rides this year from having a baby. My local shop theoretically should be able to order new ones tomorrow and have them arrive before the end of the week, hopefully xmas and covid may cause problems. UPS is having serious issues getting my Newegg order to me, but I think they're in some sort of contract dispute right now
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Dec 7, 2020 02:48
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Seen some carbs listed as "Keihin FCR 39 MX" come up on ebay today for 150 quid. They're from a 2007 SXF 250. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124478236488?ul_noapp=true) Any tips on checking they'd fit a DRZ? I've googled for SXF250/DRZ400 swaps, but can't find anything. [e] offered less for it and seller agreed. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Dec 9, 2020 |
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Dec 9, 2020 12:19
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If it has the removable intake bell, in general you can buy the DRZ-sized intake bell for cheap and make it work. Apparently you can even get adapters for the ones without removable bells https://www.frankmxparts.com/epages/62910900.mobile/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62910900/Products/2096&Locale=en_US E: found an even better site with even more options https://www.allgeyerperformance.com/shop I did this with my first DRZ and adapter a wr450 FCR mx to it with the proper bell. You’ll also need to check that the airbox boot fits over it but if I recall this is less of an issue in general? Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Dec 9, 2020 |
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Dec 9, 2020 14:26
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Sudco is where I went for mine. 3d print the adapter parts in TPU.
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Dec 9, 2020 17:56
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Horse Clocks posted:Seen some carbs listed as "Keihin FCR 39 MX" come up on ebay today for 150 quid. They're from a 2007 SXF 250. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124478236488?ul_noapp=true) You should change your search term to the carb model and the bike you want it to go into, "drz400 keihin fcr" The fcr is a large carb but it looks like people do it. https://youtu.be/wbDv0Tn-x1k
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Dec 9, 2020 18:11
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Can someone please tell me what to use to glue my Oxford heated grips on? I've seen lots of advice online about what not to use and now I'm afraid of everything
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Dec 11, 2020 01:56
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:19 |
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The glue it comes with.
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Dec 11, 2020 04:30
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