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Chris Knight posted:The glue it comes with.
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Dec 11, 2020 05:14
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Chris Knight posted:The glue it comes with. I've had that fail on all 3 bikes Ive used it on. it works for some months then you get fun poo poo like the throttle grip slooowly slipping so youre stuck wondering why the hell your bike has less power. I just use any regular super glue.
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Dec 11, 2020 09:12
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FBS posted:Can someone please tell me what to use to glue my Oxford heated grips on? One of the more memorable pieces of advice I've ever read on these forums is that water-based "personal lubricant" is perfect for getting new grips on easily and then when the water evaporates the residue is gummy enough to make the grips stick. I've no idea how good that advice actually is, but trying to work out the sequence of events that led to this discovery is certainly entertaining.
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Dec 11, 2020 10:28
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Supradog posted:I've had that fail on all 3 bikes Ive used it on. it works for some months then you get fun poo poo like the throttle grip slooowly slipping so youre stuck wondering why the hell your bike has less power. When I bought my SV650 the heated grips slid around on the bars, leading to the cables getting kind of tangled and the throttle sticking open a bit, which was a bit scary. I then stuck the grips back on with normal grip glue. Did I screw up?
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Dec 11, 2020 14:52
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As long as it wasn't the glue oxford included in their kit its probably fine.
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Dec 11, 2020 14:58
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goddamnedtwisto posted:One of the more memorable pieces of advice I've ever read on these forums is that water-based "personal lubricant" is perfect for getting new grips on easily and then when the water evaporates the residue is gummy enough to make the grips stick. I've no idea how good that advice actually is, but trying to work out the sequence of events that led to this discovery is certainly entertaining. I posted that originally, and the sequence of events leading to the discovery was exactly what you're imagining.
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Dec 11, 2020 18:27
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Why is there a warning tag on these new pro-taper bars I just bought that says “for external use only”?
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Dec 11, 2020 18:29
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Sagebrush posted:I posted that originally, and the sequence of events leading to the discovery was exactly what you're imagining. Nice one punchy
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Dec 11, 2020 18:50
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Rust proofing question! I've heard great things about ACF-50 rust proofing stuff. Supposedly it can even be used on hot exhaust parts. Can you use it on chromed parts? The exhaust of my SV is slowly starting to show some rust and pitting, and i kinda wanna keep it nice and shiny. But i don't wanna have a caked on layer of wax or something that is super hard to remove after winter.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:31
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I replied in the other thread before reading this. Yes, acf50 works. In regards of shine, it will be a little duller. Think of it as a slightly sticky coat of oil? It's not wax like or hard. Removing is just a good washing with normal soap, maybe heated water to help.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:42
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LimaBiker posted:Rust proofing question! You can put it on all metal and plastics according to the manufacturer. Vinyl is a problem I heard.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:42
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XCP Rust Proofer lasts longer than ACF (Ryan F9 did a great youtube on it), i.e. it won't wash away as easily from rain etc so you need to reapply it less often.
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Dec 12, 2020 23:51
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Why is there a warning tag on these new pro-taper bars I just bought that says “for external use only”? We can assume using them internally caused someone to end up in the hospital
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Dec 21, 2020 22:01
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Dec 21, 2020 23:36
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Possible dumb question alert, why is it that a lot of older literbikes seem to weigh less than modern ones? Browsing craigslist looking at some of the 10-15 year old bikes that pop up on there, stated weight in the manufacturer specs is almost always a good 50-60+ lbs less than the current model years. From my very brief poking around, it seems like there was a time period where the bikes just kept getting lighter and lighter until about 2005-8, then that curve reversed and started coming back up in weight again. For example, a 2004 R1 supposedly is around 380 lbs dry (not that much more than some modern small CC sportbikes  ) but 2015-present are claimed at around 440+ lbs or so, if you can find real numbers and they're to be believed.
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Dec 22, 2020 19:40
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Emissions, electronics, safety features (like abs), probably a good bit of old fashioned lying.
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Dec 22, 2020 19:47
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Didn't a lot of manufacturers weigh their bikes without most fluids - fork oil, gas, engine oil, brake fluids, etc - to get an unrealistic weight too?
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Dec 22, 2020 19:55
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Is that what they usually mean by dry weight, just everything completely empty, or is that another number that gets fudged? I always assumed it was without gas for sure and radiator fluid at the very least.Coydog posted:Emissions, electronics, safety features (like abs), probably a good bit of old fashioned lying.
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Dec 22, 2020 20:03
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my exhaust, not even the cat, was no joke, 15lbs lol. the replacement wings exhaust weighed about 4lbs maybe? and was not significantly louder with the more restrictive insert emissions stuff / abs routing all weighs quite a bit
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Dec 22, 2020 20:25
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RightClickSaveAs posted:Possible dumb question alert, why is it that a lot of older literbikes seem to weigh less than modern ones? Browsing craigslist looking at some of the 10-15 year old bikes that pop up on there, stated weight in the manufacturer specs is almost always a good 50-60+ lbs less than the current model years. From my very brief poking around, it seems like there was a time period where the bikes just kept getting lighter and lighter until about 2005-8, then that curve reversed and started coming back up in weight again.
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Dec 22, 2020 20:53
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Yuns posted:The improved emissions have meant heavier bikes BUT 380 is a fantasy number. Actual wet weight of a '04 R1 is actually close to 440 lbs. Wet weight of a 2020 R1 is around 448. That's more like a 8 lb difference or so. Yep. the 99' R1 I owned was a heavy loving pig.The FZ1k that preceded it was even worse. Bike engines/frames are designed to be a lot more compact now which utilize less materials which reduces weight. right arm posted:my exhaust, not even the cat, was no joke, 15lbs lol. the replacement wings exhaust weighed about 4lbs maybe? and was not significantly louder with the more restrictive insert the 990 adv with abs/efi is a good 20lb heavier than the 950 on carbs. The dual cats/exhausts + emissions worth about 15-20lb too. Some weight weenies have managed to strip nearly 100lb off that platform.
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Dec 22, 2020 21:20
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I've got a dumb dumb question. I have a little portable tire infaltor/deflator. It has a threaded air chuck that I screw onto the tire. The problem is, it takes a bit to screw it on and off. And during that time the valve seems to open and until it is either fully connected or disconnected my tires are losing pressure. This means if I inflate my tire up to 25 psi, while I am disconnecting the inflator, the tire pressure drops to 20 psi (which I verify with a secondary push gauge I have). Is there some trick to this I am missing? Should I overinflate to 30 to compensate for the expected loss (this seems like a bad idea)?
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Dec 23, 2020 04:04
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Do it faster. Or get the kind of adapter head that doesn't screw on. In either case, overinflating to 30 is perfectly fine. Look at the number on the side of the tire and don't go above that, but feel free to go up to it and then let bits of air out until it hits the correct value.
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Dec 23, 2020 04:14
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Sagebrush posted:Do it faster. Would something like this be better: https://www.amazon.com/LUMITECO-Loc...customerReviews
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Dec 23, 2020 04:18
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Sagebrush posted:Or get the kind of adapter head that doesn't screw on. This is the 'right' way to do this fwiw, either using a combination gauge/filler tool (expensive) or a direct pump + pressure gauge (less expensive). You also get what you pay for with gauges in terms of accuracy, the aliexpress tier are almost useless because they're usually so far out.
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Dec 23, 2020 06:16
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I have a manual push gauge with a button for letting out pressure. It was very handy for overinflating and then dropping down to the correct one. There's no need to worry about the tire blowing, sitting still it can take far far more than its rated max.
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Dec 23, 2020 09:52
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I have a decent gauge filler tool attached to a cheap 155 psi air compressor at home but most of the time I just use a good bicycle pump with a gauge to make tweaks to pressure or top up tires. I also have a manual push gauge with a dial that holds the reading.
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Dec 23, 2020 10:20
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Those drive me crazy, I'm obsessive about tire pressure in my vehicles and bought one of the cheapish ones that plugs into a car cigarette lighter so I could always keep everything topped off, and the threads just won't cooperate some days. I started just overinflating to a set amount once I figured out about how much will be let out with unscrewing the head. Side tangent, why does Slime seem to have such a stranglehold on the budget pressure gauges and compressors in the US. They're universally cheap and lovely feeling, but are the only things you can find in stores.
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Dec 23, 2020 16:27
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I have bicycle pumps with a dial gauge and push gauges from the car parts store (with the little stem that shoots out). The push gauge is always 5lbs less than the $75 Bontrager pump's gauge, both before and after using the pump. It's not the floor pump letting air out.
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Dec 23, 2020 17:34
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I highly encourage anyone using a 12V compressor to buy a VIAIR, they're amazingly quiet compared to the cheap compressors and also fill tires a lot faster. Their built in gauge is very accurate too (when turned off, when it's running it reads ~2PSI high but that's easy to account for), it's reads the exact same as my pricey Motion Pro digital gauge.
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Dec 23, 2020 17:58
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The Goldwing has an onboard compressor and a 6 foot air hose           
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Dec 23, 2020 18:25
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RightClickSaveAs posted:Those drive me crazy, I'm obsessive about tire pressure in my vehicles and bought one of the cheapish ones that plugs into a car cigarette lighter so I could always keep everything topped off, and the threads just won't cooperate some days. I started just overinflating to a set amount once I figured out about how much will be let out with unscrewing the head. if you go to a hardware store instead of autozone you can find battery powered air pumps. honesty i really like mine and it's not a bad price if you already have the batteries and it lasts forever just sitting in my car. probably way less practical for keeping on a bike since it's a bit chunky but it also means not needing a 12v outlet.
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Dec 23, 2020 18:43
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The Goldwing has an onboard compressor and a 6 foot air hose That is if you didn't go for the chest freezer option.
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Dec 23, 2020 18:52
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The Goldwing has an onboard compressor and a 6 foot air hose So does the hawk. It's a tiny pocket sized compressor with alligator clips for the battery. I won it at cycle gear. What I want is a bike with an onboard compressor that is connected to the tires and a TPMS. Have it check tire pressures against your preferred setting every time you start the bike and adjust as needed.
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Dec 23, 2020 19:51
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do i have to post this again
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Dec 23, 2020 20:04
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So a two wheeled humvee then.
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Dec 23, 2020 20:04
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Sagebrush posted:do i have to post this again How does it pump "clean, cool air" from the spark plug hole? Was there a mechanism to shut off fuel to the carbs?
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Dec 23, 2020 20:12
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How is that pump not sending aeresolized fuel air mix into your tires? No thank you, I'll hook up to the exhaust instead for my air pressure.Slavvy posted:So a two wheeled humvee then. If I wanted a cool looking, heavy, overpriced, slow, unreliable piece of poo poo with features can live without I'd get a.... ural? Royal Enfield?
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Dec 23, 2020 20:13
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Thats definitely pumping gas into your tires
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Dec 23, 2020 20:38
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| # ? May 16, 2024 19:43 |
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mewse posted:How does it pump "clean, cool air" from the spark plug hole? Was there a mechanism to shut off fuel to the carbs? The part that screws into the spark plug hole contains a little reciprocating piston on a spring with a check valve to the outside. The pressure in the engine cylinder drives this piston back and forth, and it in turn pumps clean air into the tire. The engine intake charge never mixes with the air going to the tire. It does pump some unburnt fuel out the exhaust, of course, but that's fine, it's 1948. no word on how well it works with dual spark engines either
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Dec 23, 2020 20:39
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