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Aurium posted:An idea popped into my head today. Try a pressure washer with a bit of soap. It might just need more mechanical action than is conveniet to do by hand. I don't have a pressure washer, but would that create more mechanical action than scrubbing with a ScotchBrite or a magic eraser? Because I tried both and was not gentle.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:56
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I definitely feel it's worth trying, particularly on a stubborn residue. An aggressive pressure washing can remove paint and gum. You could try one of the ones at a carwash place, though location and weather might not be a good option. They won't be as strong, people don't usually want to wash the paint off their car. There are services that wash driveways with them where I am, which you could try contacting to drop by for a 5 min job, worst thing is they'll say it's too small a job. I think some hardware stores rent them as well, though I have no idea for how much. There are also the air compressor based ones, so if you know someone with a compressor they might have one.
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Dec 16, 2020 23:59
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So a few pages back I was going back and forth trying to figure out why my dual 5015 fans on my Ender 3 were not scaling properly with the power being provided. Like 1-10% power would really be 90%+ power. Well I figured it out accidentally while messing with the wiring of it tonight. I have a buck converter for the board fan so that I can use a 12v Noctua fan, and when that's not plugged in, the 5015's act as they should. So something with the buck converter is causing my issue. e: I've been trying to install Teaching Tech's universal rear board assembly that holds a Raspberry Pi and control board all in one package. Unfortunately, despite being printed accurately, it's a few MM too wide for the back of my Ender 3. I verified my Ender 3 is assembled properly, so I guess there's just that much variance between them. People in the comments of the Thingiverse page seem to have similar issues. Anyone here use that design and have run into similar issues? It's really close to fitting, so I'm printing it at 99% scale and hoping all the screw spacing is still close enough to work. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 04:14
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SpartanIvy posted:So a few pages back I was going back and forth trying to figure out why my dual 5015 fans on my Ender 3 were not scaling properly with the power being provided. Like 1-10% power would really be 90%+ power. I take it the input of the buck converter across the same leads as the fans? If so, what's going on is the input capacitor of the buck converter is charging up while the transistor is on, and back feeding power when the transistor is off. You could put a series diode into the input of the buck converter to prevent the back flow.
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Dec 17, 2020 06:49
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biracial bear for uncut posted:A functional Monoprice Delta Pro arrived yesterday, and I'm re-learning bed adhesion tricks for a glass bed doing test prints between actual work at work. I've only ever had a glass bed. Have tried many other solutions over the years. But I always end up back here: https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E558/dp/B003ULBN02/ combined with heat. It is the only one that just works, and works consistently. For PLA or PET. Though I have found for PET, you need to clean and reapply for every print. For PLA a single application will last for a few prints. stevewm fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 14:59
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SpartanIvy posted:e: I've been trying to install Teaching Tech's universal rear board assembly that holds a Raspberry Pi and control board all in one package. Unfortunately, despite being printed accurately, it's a few MM too wide for the back of my Ender 3. I verified my Ender 3 is assembled properly, so I guess there's just that much variance between them. People in the comments of the Thingiverse page seem to have similar issues. Anyone here use that design and have run into similar issues? It's really close to fitting, so I'm printing it at 99% scale and hoping all the screw spacing is still close enough to work. I ended up printing this one instead when I put in a bigtreetech board since I'm running some 12v fans on a buck converter. The fan slots can rattle a little but there's a smidge of room for padding them. It also means putting the printer up on the feet for height but mine's been like that for almost a year or so now and it's been great. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3604203
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Dec 17, 2020 17:00
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I was trying to change the filament on my Ender 3 Pro and the spool fell off and landed on the back of the print bed. I tried re-leveling the bed, but my prints keep coming out wrong. They either don't stick to the bed or the filament comes out globby like this (sorry for the potato picture) I never had any of these problems before the bed was hit by the spool. Can anyone help me figure out what's wrong with it?
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Dec 18, 2020 05:22
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Take a better picture. Ideally with the print still on the bed
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Dec 18, 2020 05:26
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Rexxed posted:I ended up printing this one instead when I put in a bigtreetech board since I'm running some 12v fans on a buck converter. The fan slots can rattle a little but there's a smidge of room for padding them. It also means putting the printer up on the feet for height but mine's been like that for almost a year or so now and it's been great. I appreciate this but printing the other one at 99% solved all my problems. Well with it fitting at least. I still have to get everything wired up.
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Dec 18, 2020 07:14
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Last minute printed gifts anyone? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orMCodUhq7s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7-wedCPSHE
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Dec 18, 2020 08:46
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 Left to right Cura X 3 under extruded Prusaslicer hairy mess (could be tweaked for retraction/coast/wipe/travel) S3D with original built in supports removed and new auto generated (thanks insta!) Orange and (new sealed roll of) red confirmed by printing identical car seat backs from the same cura sliced file, no visual differences at all. My conclusion: 1: slicer problem with those thin walls in the designed-in supports 2: now I've got to print a whole second one in red  Thanks to anyone playing along and offering guidance, this has been frustrating. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Dec 18, 2020 |
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Dec 18, 2020 09:20
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Just found this thread, happy to be here. Wondering if anyone else here has/uses Cetus3D MK3 units. Especially interested if anyone else here has perhaps gone down the TinyFab CPU rabbit hole with their MK3.
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Dec 18, 2020 10:39
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cakesmith handyman posted:[success]
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Dec 18, 2020 13:30
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minidracula posted:Just found this thread, happy to be here. Wondering if anyone else here has/uses Cetus3D MK3 units. Especially interested if anyone else here has perhaps gone down the TinyFab CPU rabbit hole with their MK3. Not that I've ever seen, but here is a video about them for anybody else. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Or4J3KWxsP0 EDIT: After actually watching that video I'm thinking "Holy poo poo, what a shitbox". The only legitimate MK3 3d printer is the one sold by Prusa, I'm sorry you were suckered. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Dec 18, 2020 |
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Dec 18, 2020 14:52
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The head just falls after the print is done? Lmaoooooo E: and performance regressions from Mk 2 to Mk 3? Hachi machi
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Dec 18, 2020 15:29
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NewFatMike posted:The head just falls after the print is done? Lmaoooooo Yeah, I checked out when he said the current version still does that, but "more gently" like it's ever acceptable for a 3d printer to do that. It doesn't even move the bed so that the printed object is out of the way! Granted, that could be solved with ending gcode in the slicer, but drat if the slicer doesn't allow custom code? WTF. EDIT: Hope that doesn't scare the OP away but holy poo poo that printer is baaaaaad if the Maker's Muse video is accurate. I mean, the Prusa Mini+ is around the same price and look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce4oluQxyc0 EDIT2: That video is for the Prusa Mini not +, but the + has an improved levelling sensor and other quality of life improvements that make it even better than that review. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Dec 18, 2020 |
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Dec 18, 2020 15:41
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Devon on Make Anything went harder on the sharpie + white (and transparent) filament prints for wild colors. He's gonna put the rainbow filament business out of business! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQwkHDDed0o
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Dec 18, 2020 18:31
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Anyone come across PETG that prints at PLA temps? I've bought a spool to make some parts that need more rigidity than PLA. Recommendation on the website is to print at 210 which is a lot lower than most info I've seen for PETG. I've just finished a calibration cube at that temp and it came out fine. This stuff: https://shop.3dfilaprint.com/filaprint-pet-g-apple-green-175mm-3d-printer-filament-10721-p.asp
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Dec 18, 2020 19:20
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Not that I've ever seen, but here is a video about them for anybody else. ooooof - z-axis just drops down onto the part after printing (!!!), uses a weird little ratchet system to try and compensate - unheated, non-adjustable bed with no leveling compensation system, and with countersunk screw holes in the center  - custom extruder nozzles you can't buy anywhere (with PTFE inside so no fancy filaments but that wouldn't matter since the bed is unheated) - proprietary slicer, won't load standard g-code, doesn't run marlin - 50 dollars more than a prusa mini, which is better in every measure it's basically a 2014 design still in production in 2020. drat. imagine having a cantilever design in 2020 without bed level compensation. holy poo poo
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Dec 18, 2020 19:24
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NewFatMike posted:The head just falls after the print is done? Lmaoooooo biracial bear for uncut posted:EDIT: Hope that doesn't scare the OP away but holy poo poo that printer is baaaaaad if the Maker's Muse video is accurate. If I'm the only jamoke with these here ITT, that's cool, but if not, do pipe up and let me know. The last few pages of the thread that I admittedly only cursorily glanced at, folks seem to have newer-than-these machine types & brands, which is not too surprising actually. The field is moving fast. minidracula fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Dec 18, 2020 |
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Dec 18, 2020 19:48
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Endjinneer posted:Anyone come across PETG that prints at PLA temps? I've bought a spool to make some parts that need more rigidity than PLA. Just FYI, PETG is easily the least rigid of the commonly used filaments, and PLA the most
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Dec 18, 2020 19:54
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What's best/easily printed for great resistance?
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Dec 18, 2020 20:00
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Sagebrush posted:ooooof I'm pretty sure some of the "babby's first 3d printer" models that Monoprice was throwing around circa 2016-2019 were better than that Cetus for the same price range, too. cakesmith handyman posted:What's best/easily printed for great resistance? What do you mean? Friction? Electrical? Impact? In my experience PETG has been the "best" mechanical filament for my use cases in terms of printability, but ASA has been a recent new and fun material to experiment with. It still has thermal shock issues while printing, but they aren't as severe as ABS and it is significantly "tougher" than PLA and moderately "tougher" than PETG. PLA bends/warps when failing, while PETG will straight up shatter when it fails. ASA has an intermediate warping state before it breaks/shatters (at least in my highly subjective testing).
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Dec 18, 2020 20:19
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cakesmith handyman posted:What's best/easily printed for great resistance? Like electrical resistance? Hell if I know, look up the dielectric constants of the various materials I guess. Thickness will matter a lot more than material choice.
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Dec 18, 2020 20:48
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Noticed a fault with my form 3 today - screen was flickering a bit. So I go to their support site to see if it’s in the forum as a known issue. And they have one of those instant messenger support robot things. Speak to the rep, explain what’s happening and they a) give me a immediate fix b) tell me ‘that can happen, we’ll follow up by email - send your address and we’ll ship a replacement with step by step instructions’ Makes a pleasant change to get good customer service. Sometime you do get what you pay for!
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Dec 18, 2020 22:03
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Noticed a fault with my form 3 today - screen was flickering a bit. So I go to their support site to see if it’s in the forum as a known issue. And they have one of those instant messenger support robot things. Yeah, Formlabs is by all accounts an awesome supplier. Wish I could afford the Form 3L and the wash/cure stations and the resins to play with. 
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Dec 18, 2020 22:16
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Yeah sorry totally missed a word there "heat" ASA looks interesting for the reasons mentioned, I don't want to dick around with ABS.
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Dec 18, 2020 22:20
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Yeah, Formlabs is by all accounts an awesome supplier. Wish I could afford the Form 3L and the wash/cure stations and the resins to play with. To my eternal frustration I had the budget for a 3L but it was just released and they couldn’t ship by the end of the financial year.
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Dec 18, 2020 22:27
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cakesmith handyman posted:Yeah sorry totally missed a word there "heat" ABS is the most heat-resistant plastic available for 3D printers other than exotic stuff, yes. ASA isn't significantly easier to print than ABS. It is a little less warpy, yes, but if you can print good ASA parts you can probably print good ABS parts too. The required temperatures and printing techniques are the same. Its main advantage industrially is that it's more UV-resistant than ABS. Anything you can do to keep the build envelope warm will help when printing either of those materials. Even putting a big cardboard box over the printer will probably get it from room temperature (~20C) to like 40-50C, which is below the industrial standard of 70C but it'll still make a difference.
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Dec 18, 2020 22:44
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I completed my first 24 hour print the other day on an Ender V2. I did one of the Gunpla Sprue Holders and I am incredibly happy with how it turned out. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4001613  
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Dec 18, 2020 23:12
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cakesmith handyman posted:Yeah sorry totally missed a word there "heat" "What kind of heat resistance?", asks the guy with industrial printers. If it's a one off piece let's chat...
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Dec 19, 2020 01:41
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Well I was considering asking the lads at work to mill it out of Ali but... It's the front casing of the gearbox that the RC motor bolts directly to and the motor pinion, it's advised to make both out of CPE or ABS but I've done little to no research on the best candidate. I was planning to make one in PLA knowing it's disposable and maybe try the annealing in plaster idea.
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Dec 19, 2020 10:32
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Anyone know if Prusa has plans to make a larger format printer? I've customized my Ender 3 about as much as possible and am really happy with it, so as I look to buy a second printer I want something that's bigger but would love to spend a little extra for a premium printer out of the box.
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Dec 19, 2020 17:11
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Mikey Purp posted:Anyone know if Prusa has plans to make a larger format printer? I've customized my Ender 3 about as much as possible and am really happy with it, so as I look to buy a second printer I want something that's bigger but would love to spend a little extra for a premium printer out of the box. Yes, they are. It would have been out earlier this year if not for covid. Rumors are it'll be out in 2021 although the specific date isn't public. The expected price from when they spoke about it in 2019 was in the 1200-1300 but it wasn't a firm price at the time so it could be more or less.
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Dec 19, 2020 17:18
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They are making a larger-format printer, yes, tentatively called the Prusa XL. All we know so far has that it will have a bigger envelope than the i3, it will have a toolchanger, and it will probably use a coreXY design. e: and I will be completely shocked if they manage to get it down to $1200. I'm expecting at least $2k Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Dec 19, 2020 |
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Dec 19, 2020 17:20
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Mikey Purp posted:Anyone know if Prusa has plans to make a larger format printer? I've customized my Ender 3 about as much as possible and am really happy with it, so as I look to buy a second printer I want something that's bigger but would love to spend a little extra for a premium printer out of the box. It's been stated as having a 400*400*400 build volume. Combined with the ATC, it's going to be a wild machine.
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Dec 19, 2020 17:26
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I made a thingy. Click the thread for a vid of it in a darker corner. https://twitter.com/TheGr8Aspie/status/1340348324151513089
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Dec 19, 2020 18:30
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Nice that's awesome to hear. $1200 is the ballpark of what I was hoping for but I guess we'll wait and see. Would really like to avoid the temptation to grab a CR-10 and spend a couple months upgrading the poo poo out of it. P.s. what does a toolchanger do? I recently saw the cover shot of a Teaching Tech video about a Toolchanger and it seems to allow you to easily remove the entire hot end? Is the idea that you'd be able to swap between a regular hot end, volcano, laser cutter etc?
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Dec 19, 2020 19:42
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Nice, I made a couple of those in previous years, I should get some decorations out. edit: this one is a favorite of mine, too: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2688139 Rexxed fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Dec 19, 2020 |
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Dec 19, 2020 19:43
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Mikey Purp posted:P.s. what does a toolchanger do? I recently saw the cover shot of a Teaching Tech video about a Toolchanger and it seems to allow you to easily remove the entire hot end? Is the idea that you'd be able to swap between a regular hot end, volcano, laser cutter etc? Yeah, he explains it in the video (which is about a company making a tool changing head for a relatively low cost compared to previous offerings, at least a lot cheaper than the e3d kit); it's for switching out the extruder for other tools. Some other possibilities include pen or marker for plotting, or just different hotend and extruder combos if you use it for direct drive.
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Dec 19, 2020 19:49
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