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There's no such thing as a sub too big for a room right? Like, using a smaller sub (of the same product lineup) won't sound better than it's bigger version? My main room is only 1600 cubic feet (plus open archway into a stairwell) and I want to get a Monolith 15 over the 12.
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Dec 14, 2020 13:15
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You can always dial down the volume on a larger sub, but a small sub can only be dialed up so far. As a rule of thumb, a sub with a larger driver will also have a more powerful amplifier, so a large sub running at a smaller percentage of its maximum performance will have a lot more headroom (both in the amp and in the driver), which gives more flexibility when EQing for the best in-room response. Honestly, small subwoofers just aren't worth it, 10" models are only for small rooms and/or setups where the main speakers have very small woofers. Realistically 12" is the minimum to go for, and I would choose two 12" subs over one 15" sub, for more even bass response. The main drawbacks for larger subs are physical size and cost.
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Dec 14, 2020 13:40
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Verviticus posted:similar to the conversation going on, i use a lovely headset as my microphone, just plugging in the mic only, leaving the ears unused and then i just drape it around my neck. i really like the ergonomics of this and dont want to switch to a desk mic, but surprisingly a cheap headset only has a cheap mic and its basically fallen apart. all that said, i really dont want to buy a nice headset and only use the mic part of it. are there any better options? the only thing i can really find are literally throat mics but those are a different beast and mostly look like they're for walkie talkies and such Antlion modmic? There are also lots of cheap USB lavalier mics around but I can't vouch for the quality.
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Dec 14, 2020 18:11
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Yeah modmic, I've been using one for years.
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Dec 14, 2020 19:38
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Ak Gara posted:There's no such thing as a sub too big for a room right? Like, using a smaller sub (of the same product lineup) won't sound better than it's bigger version? My main room is only 1600 cubic feet (plus open archway into a stairwell) and I want to get a Monolith 15 over the 12. Practically? no. In theory...  
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Dec 14, 2020 19:54
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KozmoNaut posted:You can always dial down the volume on a larger sub, but a small sub can only be dialed up so far. As a rule of thumb, a sub with a larger driver will also have a more powerful amplifier, so a large sub running at a smaller percentage of its maximum performance will have a lot more headroom (both in the amp and in the driver), which gives more flexibility when EQing for the best in-room response. There's good small subs, they won't rattle your insides but the RSL speedwoofer, the small sealed Rythmiks, etc. sound plenty good. You just don't get the "tactile response" like you do from a big cabinet. The other argument for small subs is to get multiples to even out room modes [ask me about 75Hz!]. If you have space or partner acceptance factor issues a small sub will still be better than no sub.
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Dec 14, 2020 20:01
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Practically? no. Amateur hour. https://www.gadgetking.com/2008/07/16/crazy-man-makes-entire-basement-into-a-giant-subwoofer/ Alas, crazy man ended his life (I believe, might be a different crazy bass dude I'm mixing up with). I hope he found the bass he was looking for.
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Dec 14, 2020 20:28
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I think you are right and it was him. I've always been fond of the rotary subwoofers that use a second room as the enclosure. This isn't the one I was thinking of, but still cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pe57fIgJgNI taqueso fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Dec 15, 2020 |
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Dec 15, 2020 04:15
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EL BROMANCE posted:Amateur hour. Did you ever check out his website? This URL used to direct to the underfloor sub page which also had a list of his kit. http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm#THE%20REAL%20TOTAL%20HORN If you looked into it a little deeper though you could see the signs of mental illness because one of the devices he said he'd made in his stack of electronics in the subwoofer room basically had a really mad description. Basically it was a device that he claimed 'went back' to the time of the recording to capture it as it is supposed to sound. He's saying the device literally travelled through time to the recording studio and hung around for the final mix before zapping it back to the time you were listening to it in order to make sure it's the best possible quality (or maybe it captured the performance itself? I forget exactly). The signs were always there... Poor fucker. Now the site is all end of the world stuff, full tin hat poo poo.
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Dec 15, 2020 19:19
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Yeah the website is definitely something else and yet also entirely as expected for someone with that kind of issue. I also stumbled upon a thread of someone who found one of his preamps in a thrift store, which was an interesting one. http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/what-the-heck-is-it-royal-device-loudspeakers-mystery-box.731622/
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Dec 15, 2020 19:47
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Every now and then I run into some hiccups with my receiver. It's a Denon S750H hooked up to a Sony TV. It has randomly turned off in the middle of listening to music and a few times the screen has just cut to black for 5 seconds and then returns. Pretty much everything is brand new - the receiver, the tv, the cables, the speakers, etc. The cutting to black screen has happened mostly on the PS4. Any ideas?
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Dec 16, 2020 21:16
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Does anyone know of a home/hifi bluetooth receiver that allows you to select which paired unit to connect to? It's for a gym where people connect their phones to the stereo via a bluetooth receiver, but forget to turn bluetooth off on their phones after they're done with the training. Would be nice to just kick them off and connect my own phone by selecting it in the units menu.
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Dec 16, 2020 23:32
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afen posted:Does anyone know of a home/hifi bluetooth receiver that allows you to select which paired unit to connect to? Airplay/google/spotify wifi casting might work smoother. A raspberry pi running moode or volumio can do all of the above. I’m pretty sure every new connection boots off the previous one, but I’ve never tried it at larger than home scale.
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Dec 16, 2020 23:38
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yoohoo posted:Every now and then I run into some hiccups with my receiver. It's a Denon S750H hooked up to a Sony TV. It has randomly turned off in the middle of listening to music and a few times the screen has just cut to black for 5 seconds and then returns. Pretty much everything is brand new - the receiver, the tv, the cables, the speakers, etc. The cutting to black screen has happened mostly on the PS4. Any ideas? Maybe try changing your video settings to YUV420 on your PS4 otherwise I would get a new high speed HDMI cable and see if that fixes the issue. My receiver did that occasionally when it ran FFXV due to what seemed like bandwidth limitations caused by a bad HDMI cable.
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Dec 17, 2020 01:51
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I have an old Sony HTC-260 soundbar and sub that I finally talked my wife into using with our main tv in the living room. It retails as the soundbar and sub but if I could get my hands on a second sub, is it possible to pair it to the bar for two subs? It pairs through a transceiver card in the sub I believe not the normal bluetooth channeling.
^burtle fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 04:47
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^burtle posted:I have an old Sony HTC-260 soundbar and sub that I finally talked my wife into using with our main tv in the living room. It retails as the soundbar and sub but if I could get my hands on a second sub, is it possible to pair it to the bar for two subs? It pairs through a transceiver card in the sub I believe not the normal bluetooth channeling. No, I’m afraid you’ll need a real receiver to do that. Edit: that came off way shittier than intended (cooking+phoneposting). You’d need either a receiver that can do multiple subs or set up something involving a splitter to send the same bass signal to both subs, or rig up like a low-pass dealie of some sort (For instance if you had a stereo receiver and two subs with speaker-level connections you could run the speaker outs to the subs and then connect each sub to its corresponding speaker). Why exactly do you want two subs? For stereo or to get more bass? Also why does your wife hate audio equipment? trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 06:00
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Having more than one sub will even out the peaks and dips in the low frequency response. That's why i have two 12" subs in a ~17m² living room; to improve the sound quality in a non-optimal room.
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Dec 17, 2020 08:10
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KozmoNaut posted:Having more than one sub will even out the peaks and dips in the low frequency response. This pretty much, we just moved into a new house and I’d like to even everything out. She doesn’t hate audio stuff, just that she had an old Bose setup when I moved in with her and we didn’t have the space to use mine. Appreciate the responses, maybe I will just look to upgrade soon.
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Dec 17, 2020 17:16
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Animale posted:Maybe try changing your video settings to YUV420 on your PS4 otherwise I would get a new high speed HDMI cable and see if that fixes the issue. My receiver did that occasionally when it ran FFXV due to what seemed like bandwidth limitations caused by a bad HDMI cable. Thanks -- I'll give the video settings a shot. I realized all of my HDMI cables are new except for the PS4 one, so it could very well be that, but the thing is it doesn't happen frequently. I played the PS4 for a few hours yesterday, but the only times it happened was about 10 minutes in and again like 5 minutes later. Otherwise it was fine.
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Dec 17, 2020 18:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:Why exactly do you want two subs? Because more subs = betterer.
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Dec 17, 2020 18:38
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I really like the look of the Klipsch rp-280f, more so than their newer rp-8000f but I can't seem to find any UK retailers that sells them. Why are the things I like always discontinued :/
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Dec 21, 2020 22:43
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Because more subs = betterer. Buddy, I know exactly why somebody would want two subs (the answer—aside from “evening out dips” and “more bass”— is stereo, yes it is absolutely perceptible and important). I meant why the OP in particular was going through the trouble of trying to add a second sub to an integrated soundbar dealie.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:46
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Ak Gara posted:I really like the look of the Klipsch rp-280f, more so than their newer rp-8000f but I can't seem to find any UK retailers that sells them. Why are the things I like always discontinued :/ They’re all over eBay.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:02
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To anyone who isn't you they'll look identical and there's a lot of reviews that say the current RPs sound much better than the previous models.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:05
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They also look better- the black oak is the worst looking, admittedly, and the walnut isn’t super great either with the gold tone drivers, but you can find the piano black finish at the price of the two cheaper versions now in a lot of places, and the piano black is legit nice. But I’ll contend that Klipsch’s current black oak finish that they use in all of their low priced gear is one of the worst looking and feeling finishes I’ve seen on a contemporary speaker, I swear you run your hand across some of the lowest priced Klipsches and they feel like old wood that’s been left in a wet shed I wish they’d just pull whatever finishes Jamo or Audioengine are using.
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Dec 22, 2020 02:22
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Ok Comboomer posted:Buddy, I know exactly why somebody would want two subs (the answer—aside from “evening out dips” and “more bass”— is stereo, yes it is absolutely perceptible and important). I meant why the OP in particular was going through the trouble of trying to add a second sub to an integrated soundbar dealie. it wasn't a serious reply hence 'betterer'
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Dec 22, 2020 16:28
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I I'm tempted to use something like MyUS or stackry to get access to some of these speakers which don't seem to be sold outside of the US, like JBL Studio 570. Those look and sound really impressive.
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Dec 27, 2020 03:07
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SubjectVerbObject posted:Wife and I are finally getting into the 21st century with our receiver. We have an old JVC which was very good 20 years ago, but it is time for something new. We are looking at AVRs and we have a pretty good idea of what we want, but there is one thing that is not common on new stuff, A/B speakers. Our house is wired for Audio and our current set up will play on speakers in other rooms. It is not complicated, no zones, etc. We do not see AVRs, that have A/B settings and speaker connections without going way beyond our price range. Following up on this since I got some good advice here. We got a Denon 7.1 system and had 2 channels for multi zone. It was incredibly simple to set up. The Denon showed us that we were deficient speaker wise, so we got smaller speakers for the back, and a much better center speaker. And now on to the subwoofer. It's the circle of life. Thanks for the assistance.
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Jan 5, 2021 21:01
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Hi all, hoping for some guidance. We have a new house with a 25 x 25 garage that we've dedicated to a home gym. Looking for a relatively budget-minded system that can deliver some Thump to our workout tunes - doesn't need to be concert loud but a full range with some bass kick is desired. Bluetooth connection to a phone for the input signal is desired, but we can always revert to a plug-in headphone jack to drive the signal. We spend an hour a day out there so I'm willing to spend up to maybe $500 for some sort of setup? Currently we have some 15-year old Panasonic boombox and it just isn't cutting it, it gets loud but sounds pretty weak in the bigger space. I spent some time looking at Crutchfield but the current trend in equipment seems to be away from what I'm envisioning.
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Jan 5, 2021 21:19
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You could look at Peachtree's DeepBlue for a boombox esque form that has some power: https://www.musicdirect.com/network...ASABEgLmSfD_BwE There's one that uses WiFi and one that uses Bluetooth (no idea why they couldn't just fit both in one.) If you're OK with something more like regular speakers, AudioEngine's A5+ Wireless are pretty loud and have decent bass (it's not like having a sub, but they get fairly loud and will be worlds better than an old boombox.) https://audioengineusa.com/shop/factory-refurbished/a5-wireless-speakers-refurbished/ This is the refurb listing, which is sold out but sometimes pops up for a good deal. If you're OK with the wired phone hookup or a chromecast the regular A5 is cheaper. But also, knowing what you see as the current trend in Crutchfield and what are you envision that's different would help. powderific fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 21:31
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How much thump? Subwoofer thump? Bigass speaker thump? You can get a 2.ch receiver with Bluetooth for <$200 (or <$150 or $100) which leaves you $300-400 for speakers/sub. You could do a lot with that depending on whether you buy used/build/new, size, finish, etc. You could realistically do new budget floorstanders or budget bookshelf speakers + PSW10 or similar. Pretty much anything with real speakers will blow away a boombox tho.
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Jan 5, 2021 21:44
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The go-to solution for gyms I've frequented in The Before Times was always a ~100 WPC consumer amp powered either some decently large floorstanding speakers (minimum 8" woofers) put on shelves or suspended/wall-mounted PA speakers (minimum 10" woofers, PA speakers are tuned with less deep bass for their size). That has always worked pretty well for workout volume levels. This is obviously a more permanent type solution than a boombox or a really fancy boombox-type speaker like the Peachtree. A second-hand set of Behringer PA speakers (you know the type in molded plastic cabinets) with 12" woofers (or even 15" if you find them at a good price) and a second-hand somewhat beefy stereo amp is what I would do for a home gym type setup. You can get little bluetooth receivers and plug those into a spare input if you don't just want to plug the phone in or the amp you find doesn't have it built in. For home type speakers, a set of Cerwin-Vegas with at least 8" woofers will play nicely in larger rooms without sucking all the power out of an amp, and they're practically made for party music thump.
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Jan 5, 2021 21:45
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KozmoNaut posted:The go-to solution for gyms I've frequented in The Before Times was always a ~100 WPC consumer amp powered either some decently large floorstanding speakers (minimum 8" woofers) put on shelves or suspended/wall-mounted PA speakers (minimum 10" woofers, PA speakers are tuned with less deep bass for their size). That has always worked pretty well for workout volume levels. Preferred sources on some of these suggestions, like the Cerwin-Vega being suggested? Thanks!
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Jan 5, 2021 21:55
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For $500, I'm speaking exclusively of second-hand gear, so that would be Craigslist/FB Marketplace/Kijiji/your favorite local alternative. E: If you're OK with mono (which is what you're effectly getting with any boombox-type speaker), this would be a decent option with bluetooth input: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_937B112W/Behringer-B112W.html?cc=02 If you splurge and get two, they can link together as a stereo pair via bluetooth. Even just one will get nice and thumpy, so keep it/them around for garden parties too. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 22:14
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I've got this old boom mic that I quite like Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Headset Gear, but I've always had trouble connecting it to a PC. Many sound cards/laptops don't seem to work with it or they can't have their gain turned up enough to clearly hear it. I've got a little diy pre-amp I've been using but it's sometimes a bit too quiet and its pretty noisy at full gain. I wanted to be able to direct-monitor it so I bought a Steinberg UR12 secondhand, hoping to simplify this whole mess. It has XLR and line level inputs. According to the spec sheet, the mic is a Condenser (back electret) with Supply Voltage listed as 1.5 - 9 V. There is a warning on their support page to not feed it 48v phantom power. Would either the Rode VXLR or Rode VXLR+ work? The VXLR+ says it supplies 3-5V 'Plug in Power', but I don't know if this is compatible with this type of condenser microphone which uses "T-Power". Are these the same things?
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Jan 6, 2021 07:30
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Garage gym guy: considering the space and usage (presumably you would be moving around/anywhere in there depending on workout/equipment), kinda like the other guy my vague suggestion would be amp + a pair (or two?) of wall mounted speakers (or space floor standers around). My main reasoning would be to even out the volume around the space so there's not really any obviously louder/quieter sides as you move around doing your workouts. I know it's not a huge area or anything, but if the volume is up enough to bump for the far side it could be annoying when you have to be closer to them. Don't have any particular suggestions cause I'm cheap and would probably give garbo ones  . I had a pair set up in a restaurant that were surprisingly nice but totally forget what they were (...and now I'm wondering where we put the setup after we shut down), might've been outdoor speakers but probably just bookshelves of some sort. For amps many have Bluetooth built in these days so you wouldn't need an extra piece of hardware there. An extra detail would be codec support if you care about maximum quality but I imagine it could be annoying to find that info for many amps. And I'm sure there's stuff with internet streaming/smarts built in too so phones wouldn't even be necessary all the time (or just hook up whatever smart device of course).
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Jan 6, 2021 11:01
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marcopolo posted:Hi all, hoping for some guidance. We have a new house with a 25 x 25 garage that we've dedicated to a home gym. Looking for a relatively budget-minded system that can deliver some Thump to our workout tunes - doesn't need to be concert loud but a full range with some bass kick is desired. Bluetooth connection to a phone for the input signal is desired, but we can always revert to a plug-in headphone jack to drive the signal. We spend an hour a day out there so I'm willing to spend up to maybe $500 for some sort of setup? Currently we have some 15-year old Panasonic boombox and it just isn't cutting it, it gets loud but sounds pretty weak in the bigger space. I spent some time looking at Crutchfield but the current trend in equipment seems to be away from what I'm envisioning. Literally anything is going to be better than an old boom box in terms of low end. You could just buy a pair of old passive PA speakers for cheap (ain't no events going on right now) and an appropriate power amp or just a big single powered PA speaker and sling a cable and a bluetooth dongle on it. Bonus for that second way is the form factor is nice and there's no loving around with cables other than the mains meaning using it anywhere you can plug it in is dead easy so BBQs in summer and such. Example: https://peavey.com/dark-matter-dm-112-powered-pa-loudspeaker/p/03614480 $330, 12", powered, mic/line in switch so all you'd need is a small XLR to minijack female cable and a little 3.5mm bluetooth dongle thing. You can daisy chain off it too if you decide one isn't enough but a 25x25 space (I'm assuming feet, not metres) would be well served by something like this. Bonus of them being PA speakers is wall mountings etc for them are very easy to get hold of because the fitment on the bottom has been standard for decades. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 11:40
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Granite Octopus posted:I've got this old boom mic that I quite like Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Headset Gear, but I've always had trouble connecting it to a PC. Many sound cards/laptops don't seem to work with it or they can't have their gain turned up enough to clearly hear it. I've got a little diy pre-amp I've been using but it's sometimes a bit too quiet and its pretty noisy at full gain. I’ve never seen that rode adapter, but it looks clever and the “plus” version should do what you need. We generally call the kind of power that small electret mics draw from mini jacks “bias power.” Don’t confuse it with “T power” which was an ancient predecessor to phantom power like 30 years ago. You only really need to know about T-power if you’re eBaying vintage shotgun mics.
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Jan 6, 2021 14:01
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eddiewalker posted:Don’t confuse it with “T power” which was an ancient predecessor to phantom power like 30 years ago. You only really need to know about T-power if you’re eBaying vintage shotgun mics. The weird thing is that T-power typically ranges 9V-12V and all Phantom power to T-power adapters I can find go straight up to the full 12V (P48/12T is the search term for that). Whereas the mic says it will take 1.5V-9V. The VXLR+ adaptor provides 3V-5V, which might work, but it'll probably be the same thing where a major gain boost from the preamp is required, which will be noisy. Probably the gain from the audio interface will be a fair bit cleaner than what you'd get from an onboard audio chip, but still a pain in the rear end.
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Jan 6, 2021 14:48
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I'm looking at home theater speakers again. For the main speakers, floor standers are pretty much always going to sound better than bookshelf sized speakers? Say, a 1k pair of floor standing speakers versus a $1k pair of bookshelf-sized speakers (like the KEF LS50, for example)?
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Jan 6, 2021 15:09
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