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Hubis posted:Local high-school is being decommissioned so they are auctioning a bunch of furniture and shop equipment. ![]() I would be all over this auction, everything there is bargain basement. You could make money on some of those huge machines with no bids just for the scrap metal value. It goes without saying grab that table saw (or one of the many others!) please put in a bid for this giant cement horses head as well https://www.themcguiregroupllc.com/auction/103/item/cement-mustang-horse-head-measures-approximately-18-tall-and-20-long-17984
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 17:02 |
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Hubis posted:Local high-school is being decommissioned so they are auctioning a bunch of furniture and shop equipment. Fucks sake.
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I'm right down the road and I'm going to be watching that auction like a hawk
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Paint question for y'all: I'd like to spray paint a steel case which is powder-coated at the moment (at least the manufacturer claims so). Any idea if I'll have to strip the existing coat first or if there's a primer + paint combo that will let me skip that?
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I loving love mine. Honestly there is no way I could possibly get it down either of the two narrow stairwells into my basement, and I don't have the room on my property for a dedicated shop outbuilding otherwise I would be all over this. Alas. Rutibex posted:
Mr. Mambold posted:Fucks sake. To be fair there is like a week left in the auction and I'm sure most of this stuff will go for much more than where it's currently listed. But still, yeah I expect some bargains
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Hubis posted:Honestly there is no way I could possibly get it down either of the two narrow stairwells into my basement, and I don't have the room on my property for a dedicated shop outbuilding otherwise I would be all over this. Alas. Massive laugh from my end. I got it up 2 staircases, down another, and out of a house. Put it in a truck. Drove it across the state. Pulled it into my lovely little landing, shuffling it sideways. Pulled 2 railings off my walls. Brought it down another set of stairs and into my basement. Life... finds a way.
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Massive laugh from my end.
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Not Wolverine posted:Mother of god. . . How does your spine feel today? On the same trip: Router table Radial arm saw (oof) Lathe with extended bed A joiners workbench Air filtration Standing drill press Two dust collectors That, 2 routers, a good biscuit jointer, some hand planes, yadda yadda. All for 2.5k For that price, I'm down any day.
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Cannon_Fodder posted:On the same trip: ![]() Best money I ever spent was a $200 harbor freight pallet jack. By chance it happens to juuuuust fit under the bottom stretchers on my workbenchand I have most of my machines up on 4x6 sleepers so it's easy to rearrange.
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maybe a bit of a stretch but anyone know of like, a chargeable battery generator that could run a welder? nothing crazy, but it would be nice to not have to lug an insane gas generator out to do field repairs etc
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:maybe a bit of a stretch but anyone know of like, a chargeable battery generator that could run a welder? nothing crazy, but it would be nice to not have to lug an insane gas generator out to do field repairs etc You mean like a battery pack? As far a portable electricity they best most compact form you are going to find is a gas generator (unless you're the US government and have access to atoms). Any battery pack large enough to run a welder would be as big as a portable gas generator.
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Fronius has a battery powered tig/stick welder (it’s expensive though) and there are a couple companies that make trail welders you can run off a pair of car batteries. Can’t remember the name but it looks like a spoolgun. No idea how well any of them work.
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Several 12v car batteries and a set of stick welder cables?
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cakesmith handyman posted:Several 12v car batteries and a set of stick welder cables? Fun fact: apparently during the early stages of the "Star Wars" weapons program the US Air Force needed a quick discharge high voltage power supply for railgun development. Their solution was to drive to the local auto shops and buy all the batteries they could find, put them in a trailer, and wire them all in parallel.
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Does anybody have any recommendations on good carpentry chisels?
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Massive laugh from my end. So, let me get this straight. You lifted all that stuff - with your hands? How many people? I bought a Sawstop PCS31230-TGP (3HP, 220V) this summer and I ended up building a frame around the main base of the saw and a hoist frame at the top of the stairs connected to a 1ton chain hoist. I wish I took pics so I could show you guys - but maneuvering that down a narrow staircase I thought was nigh impossible even with multiple people. The base cabinet piece was about 330lbs. I bow to your superior moving skills my friend.
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Weka posted:Does anybody have any recommendations on good carpentry chisels? Stanley Sweetheart?
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You'd have better luck asking in the woodworking thread. I believe the standard "good but not insanely expensive" recommendation is Narex.
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You'd have better luck asking in the woodworking thread. I believe the standard "good but not insanely expensive" recommendation is Narex. I concur
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You'd have better luck asking in the woodworking thread. I believe the standard "good but not insanely expensive" recommendation is Narex. Chris Schwarz recommends made in the USA buck brothers as the cheapest chisel you can do woodworking with. I have a set, and they work well, and are cheap enough to abuse. Seems like a solid choice for carpentry. (Home Depot has two sets, make sure you get the made unusable professional set. https://www.homedepot.com/p/100067444)
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There is a big overlap (unless I'm missing something) in tools included with both sets, but man are they sexy looking. Looking to get some tools for electronics as the cheap crap I have that I bought like 10 years ago just breaks at the slightest hint of torque as well as rounds screws... €120 is a good chunk of money they, but at the same time I guess these will last me a lifetime and save a ton a aggrevation. Anything obvious missing from these sets?
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LightRailTycoon posted:Chris Schwarz recommends made in the USA buck brothers as the cheapest chisel you can do woodworking with. I have a set, and they work well, and are cheap enough to abuse. Seems like a solid choice for carpentry. (Home Depot has two sets, make sure you get the made unusable professional set. https://www.homedepot.com/p/100067444) Note too that chisels aren't typically "ready to go" straight outta the package. I followed this as a guide when I got a cheap set https://youtu.be/t5oehMku94c They work fine now for my needs maybe they don't hold an edge quite as well as an expensive set but once you get them set up properly it takes like a minute to resharpen them.
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Cheers all, I've asked in the woodworking thread. Looking for something with a full tang and steel buttplate so that rules out all of the posted options I think.
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Numinous posted:So, let me get this straight. You lifted all that stuff - with your hands? How many people? Most of the time, one but two for the big stuff I couldn't dismantle. I'm a determined little poo poo sometimes.
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Weka posted:Cheers all, I've asked in the woodworking thread. Looking for something with a full tang and steel buttplate so that rules out all of the posted options I think. Get a set you like, break off the handle casings, and mod them to your specifications?
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I've had a new boss for a couple of weeks and the dude just sent me $50 on Amazon from his own pocket. This calls for vengeance. I'm going to have to make him something. Time to get myself a new chisel and an incra ruler.
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Weka posted:Cheers all, I've asked in the woodworking thread. Looking for something with a full tang and steel buttplate so that rules out all of the posted options I think. I think Narex has some - certainly they have ones with a steel ferrule and hoop meant for striking. On the Narex site some descriptions are mixed up, so you need to select Czech to see the English description and vice-versa. Not what you’re looking for but I got their set of butt chisels (not meant to be hammered) and the steel is fantastic - they’re great for all the little paring tasks that would otherwise involve accidentally driving a Stanley knife into your thumb. Does anyone have detail sander recommendations? I’m not as patient at the sanding part of making things as I should be, and I could do with something small and relatively quiet for the initial finishing on small parts.
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I need a planer. I need to thin down some wood planks so I can put them up against our wood fence (between the vertical posts and the fence slats) to use as retaining wall material for some dirt I need to put there (b/c for some reason my idiot dad told our new fence builders not to replace the retaining boards from our old fence because he was stupid and didn’t know what they were for), and the planks I got are just slightly too thick to fit back there and I need to plane them down so they’ll fit and none of the hardware stores in my area rent planers and “community wood shops” are not a thing at all where I live. ... also it might be good to have a planer for woodworking poo poo later. Recommend me a planer. Minimum 10” wide if it’s not portable b/c that’s how long my planks are. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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I. M. Gei posted:I need a planer. I need to thin down some wood planks so I can put them up against our wood fence (between the vertical posts and the fence slats) to use as retaining wall material for some dirt I need to put there (b/c for some reason my idiot dad told our new fence builders not to replace the retaining boards from our old fence because he was stupid and didn’t know what they were for), and the planks I got are just slightly too thick to fit back there and I need to plane them down so they’ll fit and none of the hardware stores in my area rent planers and “community wood shops” are not a thing at all where I live. why not return said planks and get the proper thickness (if it exists)? I know I know.. ![]() pretty much I believe this one is the bog standard of Good Planers for home woodshop use https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-12-1-2-in-Planer-DW734/100634640 I don't have experience with this one.. but might be decent for a lower budget https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grizzly-Industrial-13-in-2-HP-Benchtop-Planer-G0889/314835096?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-100634640-_-314835096-_-N edit: They don't rent them because one idiot sends a board with a nail through it and now you get to replace the blades at a decent cost and labor time because the next guy's going to get their wood ruined. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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tater_salad posted:why not return said planks and get the proper thickness (if it exists)? I know I know.. ... because the proper thickness doesn’t exist? The planks are about 1” thick now, which is only about 1/8” to 1/4” too thick, and anything thinner than that probably wouldn’t be thick enough to hold the dirt in. I mean I can look (again; for the 5th time) for proper-thickness wood, I’d certainly rather get that than buy a whole planer, but I very extremely strongly doubt I’m gonna succeed in finding it. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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I. M. Gei posted:... because the proper thickness doesn’t exist? The planks are about 1” thick now, which is only about 1/8” to 1/4” too thick, and anything thinner than that probably wouldn’t be thick enough to hold the dirt in. Can you post a pic of where it's going so we can visualize the issue? I'm having a hard time visualising what you are trying to do and why the thickness of the board makes a difference. How old's the fence? I mean dimensional lumber has been a thing for a long time (longer than I'd think a fence would exist for) I find it hard to think that a "one by" was not there before. A "one by" would be around 3/4 inch thick unless what you bought wasn't actual dimensional lumber or was a "Two by" which would be around 1.5" tater_salad fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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I. M. Gei posted:... because the proper thickness doesn’t exist? The planks are about 1” thick now, which is only about 1/8” to 1/4” too thick, and anything thinner than that probably wouldn’t be thick enough to hold the dirt in. Most real lumber yards will also plane down lumber to your exact requirements.....for a small fee sure, but certainly cheaper than buying a planer that you *may* use in the future.
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I hear wood buried in dirt and planer in the same breath and cringe. Are you using pressure treated lumber...in which case your planer blades are hosed and will need a serious cleaning if not replaced. Are you using non pressure treated lumber...in which case your boards are hosed in a year and will need to be replaced.
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Look at ask jeeves here with the next set of issues.
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If it's getting buried and consequently does not need to look good, just get some half inch plywood and cut the poo poo to the appropriate size
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tater_salad posted:How old's the fence? It’s brand new, less than a year old. tater_salad posted:I mean dimensional lumber has been a thing for a long time (longer than I'd think a fence would exist for) I find it hard to think that a "one by" was not there before. A "one by" would be around 3/4 inch thick unless what you bought wasn't actual dimensional lumber or was a "Two by" which would be around 1.5" I just checked again and neither my local Lowes or Home Depot have the right-thickness lumber in stock. Everything is either not ground contact treated, or out of stock/unavailable. Having said that, I searched for nominal 3/4” thickness only, since the wood I already bought is nominal 1”. I can check for nominal 1/2” but I worry that that might be slightly too thin for good structural integrity (although it’s only a 1/4” difference and I don’t have anything solid to base my fear on so maybe I’m wrong?). tater_salad posted:Can you post a pic of where it's going so we can visualize the issue? I'm having a hard time visualising what you are trying to do and why the thickness of the board makes a difference. Hang on, let me go grab one...
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I. M. Gei posted:... because the proper thickness doesn’t exist? The planks are about 1” thick now, which is only about 1/8” to 1/4” too thick, and anything thinner than that probably wouldn’t be thick enough to hold the dirt in. For a retaining wall? You'd be better advised to get exterior grade plywood and rip it to width. The thicknesses can be 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4". Whatever is butting against dirt is going to be subject to rot and/or termites, etc. edit- If you insist on getting a planer, the portable DeWalt 12" is pretty well regarded.
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Or if you don't care about ![]()
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I. M. Gei posted:It’s brand new, less than a year old. As someone else mentioned if this is supposed to be ground contact you can't plane it. Full stop. 1. You can't really thickness plane wet wood you'll gently caress your poo poo up (pressure treated is wet wood) 2. You don't want to use wood that you can plane because itll rot in 1-5 years. (But then again you'd need a planer so you can replace it over and over again). Maybe you can use and plane cedar. Some questions. 1. How thick does it need to be? 2. Why does thickness matter that much (you said you were doing pictures so we'll see) 3. You said proper wood exists but is not available, why does it need to be done now now instead of waiting? tater_salad fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 17:02 |
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Never mind.
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