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Steely Dad
Jul 29, 2006



I’m regretting my parchment seats a little. I’m worried they’re going to look beat to hell after a few years.

e: worst snipe, goddamn

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Kibbles n Shits
Apr 8, 2006

burgerpug.png


Fun Shoe
My 15' 3 has an intermittently blinking TPMS light and the "trac off" light is on. Is this a TPMS fault of some kind? My tires are inflated correctly

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

Kibbles n Shits posted:

My 15' 3 has an intermittently blinking TPMS light and the "trac off" light is on. Is this a TPMS fault of some kind? My tires are inflated correctly

You don’t have in-tire sensors. That year they used the ABS sensors.

The abs sensor is a little hall-effect magnet that reads pulses from a gear-looking “tone ring” that turns with the wheels. If one wheel is turning at a slightly different rpm than the others, it probably has a different diameter, thus different inflation level. If one wheel is suddenly spinning at a WAY different speed, it’s probably lost traction.

Since your car is indicating both, I’d suspect an ABS sensor. Can you try to read the computer codes? It might tell you which wheel.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

On that note - I know an element of it is "in-tire sensors have some extra cost or something that makes it less economical, and they have to be recalibrated with tire changes", all that, but... do the ABS sensors really have that much advantage over in-tire sensors? Seems like more complications for less information and the same practical performance.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
I like that there’s no batteries to worry about and my snow tires don’t need sensors. I get the feeling that the ABS idea was just a bare-minimum to meet regulatory requirements, though. Did I hear that current models went back to wireless sensors?

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

eddiewalker posted:

I like that there’s no batteries to worry about and my snow tires don’t need sensors. I get the feeling that the ABS idea was just a bare-minimum to meet regulatory requirements, though. Did I hear that current models went back to wireless sensors?

Yeah, I get the same feeling re: regulatory, if they didn't have to have it they wouldn't have even stuck in what they did. Good call on the snow tire front, too. Just wish they were better at tracking if more than one tire goes low. Then again, my spite for my 3 is well documented by now, so that's probably unsurprising. (As a very late followup, we now have a third independent Mazda dealership verifying they "can't reproduce" any issues as I do so on the way in and out, which includes even the "have to take a full day off work to be able to drive this far and back in one day" dealership near me, so... yeah, that's everyone under warranty, and apparently whatever the hell is going on is "normal behavior".)

Kibbles n Shits
Apr 8, 2006

burgerpug.png


Fun Shoe

eddiewalker posted:

You don’t have in-tire sensors. That year they used the ABS sensors.

The abs sensor is a little hall-effect magnet that reads pulses from a gear-looking “tone ring” that turns with the wheels. If one wheel is turning at a slightly different rpm than the others, it probably has a different diameter, thus different inflation level. If one wheel is suddenly spinning at a WAY different speed, it’s probably lost traction.

Since your car is indicating both, I’d suspect an ABS sensor. Can you try to read the computer codes? It might tell you which wheel.

I can pull the codes when I get home from work. Interesting tidbit about the TPMS that I did not know. Knowing that, I agree an ABS sensor seems like the most likely culprit.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
So Mazdas from the 2000s have got a reputation for rust. And yeah the more I look at this car the more small spots of rust I see that I didn't spot at first. And now it failed MOT inspections due to a rust hole. Patched it up this weekend with fresh metal. High zinc primer then two types of corrosion protection.



Still gonna need to do a lot of work on this car come summer. I wonder how big a PITA it is to blend metallic.

Some Guy From NY
Dec 11, 2007

Kibbles n Shits posted:

My 15' 3 has an intermittently blinking TPMS light and the "trac off" light is on. Is this a TPMS fault of some kind? My tires are inflated correctly

There was either a recall or TSB for this. My wife's 2014 mazda6 had the same issue, went to the dealer & they said it was a recall or TSB (can't remember which). It was a software issue I believe.

Google to see if your car falls under it.

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer
How do you guys like the CX-5 in both turbo and n/a varieties?

MA-Horus
Dec 3, 2006

I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of how awesome I am.

Head Bee Guy posted:

How do you guys like the CX-5 in both turbo and n/a varieties?

turbo is good. tons of power, feels like a high end vehicle.

Kibbles n Shits
Apr 8, 2006

burgerpug.png


Fun Shoe
State of things as of this morning (please pardon the dustiness)



There was also a light that looked like a triangle with a "!" in it but it went away.

I plugged my OBD2 tool in and got a P0504 which is apparently a brake light circuit fault. A quick google search led me to another user who replaced their brake light switch to fix the problem, so I guess I'll try that since they are cheap. I never noticed any problems with my brake lights but I'm glad I know now not to drive it until its fixed.

edit: new brake light switch fixed it right up. $20 and ~5 minutes of labor. I love easy fixes.

Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 18, 2021

The Aardvark
Aug 19, 2013


I had that happen two years ago with my '17 3 and they replaced it since it was under warranty.

regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

2016 3, I have a long commute and the little chips on the hood from rocks and such are getting noticeable to me, little nicks where the paint is just gone. I feel like any touch up paint will be very noticeable on soul red, do I just put some clear nail acrylic on the nicks so they don't spread or rust?

Some Guy From NY
Dec 11, 2007

regulargonzalez posted:

2016 3, I have a long commute and the little chips on the hood from rocks and such are getting noticeable to me, little nicks where the paint is just gone. I feel like any touch up paint will be very noticeable on soul red, do I just put some clear nail acrylic on the nicks so they don't spread or rust?

Not sure about the nail polish, but i have a very long highway commute too. My cars front end (bumper and hood) got absolutely peppered with chips in 1 year of driving. I had them both repainted and splurged on paint protection film. Full hood, full bumper, full fenders, sideview mirrors, and a part of the roof over the windshield. Besides one big nick from a huge piece of road debris, so far after almost 3 years the PPF has held up wonderfully and no more little nicks everywhere.

kefkafloyd
Jun 8, 2006

What really knocked me out
Was her cheap sunglasses
Soul Red is one of the few paint colors I would just straight up recommend a full paint film on the front end. The cost of the film will be saved by the resprays and touchups that will just never match that paint.

That said I've used clear acrylic to cover up nicks when touchup wasn't an option.

MA-Horus
Dec 3, 2006

I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of how awesome I am.

yeah i had film for about 1/4 of the hood on my soul red 3 and holy moly the amount of paint chips i had after 3 years of ownership were staggering.
goddamn ontario country roads.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Got a new oil leak on my MS3 on the passenger side and I'm feeling unhappy and gloomy. Might also be dealing with a new puppy and not getting any sleep.

Any ideas what it could be coming from? I'm currently parked outside and it has been rainy, so I can't put a piece of paper under it just yet to try and catch whatever the fluid is. Based on the location I was hoping it was just a leak from the low pressure side of the power steering reservoir, but I don't think that's the case. Some posts I found online say it could be the front crank seal--- which seems annoying. If I can diagnose it and it's something like that, I'll probably just pay a shop to fix it, I guess.

Also, I kind of want to buy a Civic Type R now to replace it, but that's probably not actually a wise financial decision.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Mine developed a leak from the timing cover in that general region IIRC while it was under warranty.

Don't sell yours. I miss mine dearly.

Steely Dad
Jul 29, 2006



MA-Horus posted:

turbo is good. tons of power, feels like a high end vehicle.

N/A is a fine family-hauling appliance. I’ve never felt like the thing was underpowered for what I need it to do.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Oh dealership, you cheapskates. Ordered in an OEM air filter, ship time was long enough I figured I'd pick up one from the dealer parts counter, use that, and keep mine as a spare for myself or a family member with the same engine in theirs. "oh yeah, we got OEM filters, just come in"

Sold me a "Value" filter at full OEM price & wouldn't hand it over for me to check till I already paid and signed off. Christ I hate this dealership. Second time they've ripped me off. Guess this is the one going in spare storage then.
e: and there was damage hidden under the label too, Jesus

SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jan 27, 2021

got off on a technicality
Feb 7, 2007

oh dear

SkyeAuroline posted:

Sold me a "Value" filter at full OEM price & wouldn't hand it over for me to check till I already paid and signed off. Christ I hate this dealership. Second time they've ripped me off. Guess this is the one going in spare storage then.
e: and there was damage hidden under the label too, Jesus
Do a credit card chargeback. That will get their attention

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

My local mazda dealer loving sucks too, both service and parts.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

got off on a technicality posted:

Do a credit card chargeback. That will get their attention

Ultimately it's not worth loving with them over 20 bucks. If it was still the previous situation then yes, absolutely, but they managed to not charge me for that at all (thanks warranty) so no recourse there.

TheBacon posted:

My local mazda dealer loving sucks too, both service and parts.

Yeah, this is the place mentioned up thread that falsely reported a service exam to corporate and contributed to getting me hosed out of corporate doing anything (and they still haven't). S t i l l having the same issues after taking it out of state to the one reputable dealer at all reachable, though they at least reduced it somewhat. But that's what a rural area gets you, dealers are a local monopoly and if you don't like it, sure sucks if you bought new specifically for the sake of a warranty covering problems like this because Mazda will not stand by it over a dealer who's not willing to do the very basics.

edit: replaced filter for my drive home to see if it improved my ongoing issues... pretty sure it made it worse. gently caress I wish I could just sell this thing and wash my hands of Mazda for good.

SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jan 28, 2021

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Okay. I hate double posting but I'm already here. I feel like I'm losing my mind. I'm not going to make it a leading question, so:

The 2018 Mazda 3 and the 2018 CX-5 have the same engine. Correct? I have worked on a CX-5 of the same generation's (helping a family member), unsure if 2018, and the engine bay was essentially identical to my own. I am aware of the use of the CX-5 as a cylinder deactivation testbed, but not whether that's hardware or ECU software, or if the entire production run has it.

Racking my brains here to figure out what the hell is going on, because I've just been no-sold again with "our last drivetrain qualified tech just left for [dealership inaccessible to me due to hours and workplace PTO policy]".

SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jan 30, 2021

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Well, on the bright side of doing an epoxy coat on my garage floor, I easily discovered what I think was a puddle of antifreeze.

I'm pretty sure it's coolant, although there is a slim chance it is my windshield washer fluid.

Either way, in trying to inspect if it could've been a leak from the windshield washer reservoir, the cap separated from the straw and fell down into the engine bay near the front wheel well. Hopefully I can easily get it out by jacking up the car and removing the under tray, but what a pain in the rear end.

I'm especially unhappy about possibly having a coolant leak, but I don't know where it could be coming from. The coolant reservoir is a little low, but I couldn't see any obvious signs of a leak at that point. Are there any common coolant leak locations on the 1st gen MS3?

Edit: I topped off my coolant reservoir after digging out my bottle of FL22 from my shed. A leak/drip immediately appeared from somewhere behind the tank. So, I think this is the best case scenario, and the reservoir itself has a leak.

Looks like I will order a new tank and cap to be safe. The next question is if I should bother with trying to replace the associated hoses.

MetaJew fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Feb 14, 2021

Cat Pancakes
Apr 24, 2012
I know this has been gone over probably, but I'm having issues with my 08 MS3. If I downshift into third or second and go wot, it cuts power as it rises through the rev band, around 4-5k, I see my boost drop but I that could just be me losing revs? I can go wot without downshifting and build boost and its fine, no stumbling, but 4th gear pulls on the highway results in 2-3 power cuts through the revs. In neutral I can rev to the heavens no issue. Threw codes, but my code reader is having a fit and the screen is flickering between codes, but I managed to snag a p1030 code off it with my camera, suggesting an o2 sensor? was also going to check my plugs and make sure they look good. some research looks like it could be the EGR or even the bov(doubt it).

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I'd also be looking for boost leaks, check all your intake plumbing.

air-
Sep 24, 2007

Who will win the greatest battle of them all?

Cat Pancakes posted:

I know this has been gone over probably, but I'm having issues with my 08 MS3. If I downshift into third or second and go wot, it cuts power as it rises through the rev band, around 4-5k, I see my boost drop but I that could just be me losing revs? I can go wot without downshifting and build boost and its fine, no stumbling, but 4th gear pulls on the highway results in 2-3 power cuts through the revs. In neutral I can rev to the heavens no issue. Threw codes, but my code reader is having a fit and the screen is flickering between codes, but I managed to snag a p1030 code off it with my camera, suggesting an o2 sensor? was also going to check my plugs and make sure they look good. some research looks like it could be the EGR or even the bov(doubt it).

140k+ on an 08 MS3, had similar symptoms that were fixed after replacing one of the ignition coils. Mechanic mentioned I'm gonna have to do all of them eventually.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3039682&pagenumber=166&perpage=40#post506596228

Cat Pancakes
Apr 24, 2012
Thanks, Ill check that out, and check all my piping while I'm taking off the IC anyway. I should have also mentioned its running pretty rich, ~8 gallons over 140 miles, leaning into the theory my o2 sensor is bad causing it to dump fuel because it thinks its lean, my Cooper S did the same thing, but my scan gauge worked right back then so it was easy to figure out.


Edit: PO had a spare o2 laying around, popped it in, running less rich but still stumbling. Doing plugs in a few days, will check my coils too see if theres anything apparent.

Cat Pancakes fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Feb 17, 2021

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Did any of you guys ever bother with doing the VVT repair/replacement on a 1st gen MS3?

I've read you can check the timing chain tension by sticking your finger through the oil cap. I recall that there was some mention about how the timing chain tension will change depending on if it is a hot or cold engine, and if one of the pistons is at TDC.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Was that one of the things Mazda extended the warranty on for a time?

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Rhyno posted:

Was that one of the things Mazda extended the warranty on for a time?

Yeah they did. I wasn't aware of it, nor did I really know what to look for-- for the brief period that my car was still under warranty, as the second owner.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
I gave my records to the buyer but I think I had them do it before the deadline.

I kind of miss that car.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Rhyno posted:

I gave my records to the buyer but I think I had them do it before the deadline.

I kind of miss that car.

I'm a broken record but I really miss my MS3. First gens were so understated and clean looking. Completely unmolested. Bonkers as hell to drive.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
I had problems with my 6 but it was such a beast in winter. I dont even know what could come close at this point.

dissss
Nov 10, 2007

I'm a terrible forums poster with terrible opinions.

Here's a cat fucking a squid.

opengl128 posted:

I'm a broken record but I really miss my MS3. First gens were so understated and clean looking. Completely unmolested. Bonkers as hell to drive.

Same. Especially once I saw what the next owner did to it.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

dissss posted:

Same. Especially once I saw what the next owner did to it.

Luckily I didn’t sell mine to anyone local. But I fully assume the worst. According to carfax it’s on its third owner after me and has 145k on it now. Sold it with 50k. At least it’s still out there I guess.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I got in my Graveyard Performance aluminum coolant and power steering tanks this past week.. and if I can find the energy I'll be replacing them this weekend.



I enjoy the car, but certain things are starting to annoy me-- as 10+ year old cars are wont to do.

The 1-2 shift when the gear oil is cold will grind a little if I don't double clutch. The stupid urethane bushing transmission mount I bought is loud as gently caress... I'm constantly tempted to do stupid things like the HPFP internals and an intake and some sort of exhaust. Downpipes are cool, but from what I've seen it's a complete bitch to do with how tight everything is against the firewall. I think the Cobb AP is still $600 which is annoying, because I think the AP for my brother's 2016 FiST was cheaper. All things that I can probably afford, but probably shouldn't waste my money on when my house needs new siding and windows, among other things.

Then you have the things like should I bother cleaning/walnut blasting the intake valves, or replacing the VVT/timing chain tensioner.

It's a rabbit hole of things that would be sort of fun as a project car, but I have a two car garage that I've barely managed to fit two cars into. That, and I don't really want to make the car less reliable.

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Cat Pancakes
Apr 24, 2012
Anyone have any strong opinions of oil restrictor bolts and catch cans on stock engine cars? Got a project MS3, doing a bunch of suspension work to it, plus the rear motor mount, it clunks sometimes if you start too abruptly from a stop, plus lol torque steer. It doesn't seem to smoke but I would also like to preserve my non smoking turbo, and keep my valves from being a nightmare

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