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Shelvocke posted:
What’s the easiest way to cut a mortise like this without expensive tools? I have a handheld trim router, would I just route out the basic shape with a straight bit, then clean it up with a chisel?
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Jan 22, 2021 18:29
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You can use a cordless drill with a decent size bit , go around the inside of the perimeter many times. Then chisel it out. Or any drill really. Or a brace and bit by hand etc.
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Jan 22, 2021 18:59
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Thanks for the feedback goons. The question about finishing was for a dining table made out of scaffold boards; it's pine underneath but with loads of character. They want a finish similar to the oak bench, and with limited research I thought maybe Danish oil would achieve that. An all-in-one product would suit me better so I'll look a little harder.Bouillon Rube posted:What’s the easiest way to cut a mortise like this without expensive tools? I have a handheld trim router, would I just route out the basic shape with a straight bit, then clean it up with a chisel? I started out just with hammer and chisel which quickly got exhausting as it's 100mm thick beam. I switched to using my cheap toy drill with a 18mm bit I had lying around.. but the drill died after not long. I now use an SDS drill (which is comically hefty) with a 32mm auger bit and clean it up with a chisel.
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Jan 22, 2021 19:48
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Do you guys have experience with Veritas t-track? I bought some before I realized that they don't have pre-drilled screw holes. Can I just epoxy them in place, or would I need to drill and use screws?
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Jan 22, 2021 21:25
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Shelvocke posted:Thanks for the feedback goons. The question about finishing was for a dining table made out of scaffold boards; it's pine underneath but with loads of character. They want a finish similar to the oak bench, and with limited research I thought maybe Danish oil would achieve that. An all-in-one product would suit me better so I'll look a little harder. Water based poly is really easy to apply these days, has tamer vapors than most paint, and doesn't really impact color. You can largely control how shiny it ends up looking with how/how much you sand during application. I like danish oil but I'd be constantly rewaxing if I used it on a table that sees any significant use.
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Jan 22, 2021 23:51
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on the subject of routers, i got a Skil 1835 for next to nothing at an estate sale. im still incredibly new to all this--should i bother cleaning it up and figuring out how to dial it in (gona be tough, cuz i can't find a manual online and it looks like it might be missing a couple accessories)? or should i just eat my $15 loss?
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Jan 23, 2021 05:00
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I updated a family friend's mantlepiece by adding a new top, extending the sides, and adding new trim to a piece she got at an antique store. I think it ended up really nice, and I especially enjoyed using the planer on a 2x12 to make it as smooth as a baby's bottom. Also the router was fun.
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Jan 23, 2021 07:07
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:on the subject of routers, i got a Skil 1835 for next to nothing at an estate sale. im still incredibly new to all this--should i bother cleaning it up and figuring out how to dial it in (gona be tough, cuz i can't find a manual online and it looks like it might be missing a couple accessories)? or should i just eat my $15 loss? It's the same as 1823. I think the manual we have in the garage actually just says Model 1823/1835 manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1170699/Skil-1823.html#manual My dad's routes fine, drawback is it only has a 1/4" collet. I cleaned it up recently as it hadn't been used in at least 20 years, thankfully only surface rust and I was able to get the bit out of the collet with some work. Edit: Speak of the devil, here's an ebay listing with our exact manual https://www.ebay.com/itm/Skil-Plung...oAAAOSwuXJfmJ8- Bondematt fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Jan 23, 2021 |
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Jan 23, 2021 09:15
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:on the subject of routers, i got a Skil 1835 for next to nothing at an estate sale. im still incredibly new to all this--should i bother cleaning it up and figuring out how to dial it in (gona be tough, cuz i can't find a manual online and it looks like it might be missing a couple accessories)? or should i just eat my $15 loss? I started with a pawn shop Skil 1825 and it was fine for occasional use. Once I started using a router as part of my regular workflow, though, I was happy to spend the $$$ on a new Porter Cable 892.
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Jan 23, 2021 14:21
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Shelvocke posted:
You can wax it without worry, but I'd be leery of using solvent based lacquer, as it and oil don't play well unless the danish oil finish is entirely dry. Oil based urethane as a topcoat is preferable if you want more durability, but given oak's hardness and the ease of touchup with danish oil, you might want to leave it as is.
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Jan 23, 2021 17:49
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Dude, I'm really digging the finished product. How much does that thing weigh? The sense I'm getting from the pictures is "a lot".
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Jan 23, 2021 20:37
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My dad wants me to make him a shower stool. Most of the ones I've seen are made of teak, but I'm wondering if I could use something cheaper. Around here (Louisiana) people use cypress for lots of our outdoor furniture. Could that be acceptable or should I just go with teak? Also, what is the best finish for an application like this? Could I just use a deck sealer?
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Jan 23, 2021 21:20
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Rufio posted:My dad wants me to make him a shower stool. Most of the ones I've seen are made of teak, but I'm wondering if I could use something cheaper. Around here (Louisiana) people use cypress for lots of our outdoor furniture. Could that be acceptable or should I just go with teak?
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Jan 23, 2021 22:17
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Suntan Boy posted:Dude, I'm really digging the finished product. How much does that thing weigh? The sense I'm getting from the pictures is "a lot". Thanks! The beam is around 60kg, less some planing and a little wastage, maybe 50kg? It's very solid.
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Jan 23, 2021 22:36
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Discomancer posted:Can you get some marine spar varnish? Cypress seems like a reasonable choice, it's a common wood to make beehives out of and those hold up well enough. Teak is so expensive I'd rather go your route and do a treated wood and tell him you'll make a new one if/when that one gets messed up. Sweet, never used that stuff before. I'll check it out, thanks. I'm definitely gonna go with cypress since I I've actually got an old beam scrap I can resaw into enough boards I think. And if not it's more like $4/bf instead of whatever ungodly price they'll want for teak.
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Jan 23, 2021 23:34
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revtoiletduck posted:Do you guys have experience with Veritas t-track? I bought some before I realized that they don't have pre-drilled screw holes. Can I just epoxy them in place, or would I need to drill and use screws?
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Jan 24, 2021 02:17
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Rufio posted:Sweet, never used that stuff before. I'll check it out, thanks. You can also try cedar, it's very rot resistant.
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Jan 24, 2021 03:25
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Shelvocke posted:Thanks! The beam is around 60kg, less some planing and a little wastage, maybe 50kg? It's very solid. Goddrat.
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Jan 24, 2021 10:55
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Wasabi the J posted:Goddrat. Not an emptyquote
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Jan 24, 2021 14:48
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Is this a respectable Jointer? Amazon warehouse deals may or may not have one of these available for a very reasonable price  https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-CMEW020-Amp-Benchtop-Jointer/dp/B07Y476PHF/
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Jan 24, 2021 18:33
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Just get a used mastercraft 6 1/8" jointer. Those are real cheap
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Jan 24, 2021 18:44
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Rutibex posted:Is this a respectable Jointer? Amazon warehouse deals may or may not have one of these available for a very reasonable price It looks like the Porter Cable jointer reskinned. I have that one and it's... okay? I paid a lot less for it and I don't think I'd want to pay that much.
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Jan 24, 2021 18:45
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Bi-la kaifa posted:Just get a used mastercraft 6 1/8" jointer. Those are real cheap  i wonder why quote:Canadian Tire voluntarily recalls Mastercraft 6 1/8" Bench Jointer
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Jan 24, 2021 18:48
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Rutibex posted:Is this a respectable Jointer? Amazon warehouse deals may or may not have one of these available for a very reasonable price Skip it. There's way too many reviews claiming the same power issue, which sounds like a control board problem at manufacture.
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Jan 24, 2021 18:50
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Stultus Maximus posted:It looks like the Porter Cable jointer reskinned. I have that one and it's... okay? I paid a lot less for it and I don't think I'd want to pay that much. Prices for tools in Canada are.....less good
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Jan 24, 2021 18:50
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I inherited a pair of weird mid-century modern interlocking shelf things that my parents purchased 40+ years ago. I think these are the exact same ones except mine aren't refinished: They're falling apart at this point so I'm working on some replacements loosely based on them that will hold plants and poo poo. I went to the mill yesterday to get some maple and left with ~60 board feet of cherry because it looked good I'm an adult and I can do what I want  .I'm not planning to stain them or anything but I would like them to darken up over time—because they'll be holding plants they'll end up getting water all over them repeatedly. I was planning to seal everything up with poly but I'm not sure if that's going to gently caress with the cherry coloring up as it ages and I wasn't able to find any clear answers after some googling. Anyone know? Also I've got a whole bunch of panels to glue up for this project so I made a bunch of cauls after seeing them mentioned in this thread and they're working real good. Thanks woodworking thread!
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Jan 24, 2021 19:23
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Cherry naturally darkens when exposed to sunlight. I think as long as your finish doesn't block UV light you'll be fine.
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Jan 24, 2021 19:30
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Cherry naturally darkens when exposed to sunlight. I think as long as your finish doesn't block UV light you'll be fine. UV is blocked by nearly everything, unless the piece is outdoors it won't get much UV at all, and any layer forming finish will block it. The only finishes I can think of that won't prevent UV from reaching the wood are just oils that soak in but don't form a film layer. E: outdoors a film layer won't be enough to block low energy UV, I meant indoors. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 19:46
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Hm, then maybe it doesn't need UV light to darken and I'm just talking poo poo. I know I've used a polyurethane finish on cherry and had it darken in sunlight. 
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Jan 24, 2021 19:49
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Would a knot like this in the leg of a step stool affect its integrity?
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Jan 24, 2021 19:53
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It's a stochastic process, the thickness of the film as well as photon energy, incidence angle, and what the film is actually made of will all affect the halving distance of the film and correspondingly the transmission rate. In theory it is possible for xrays to get through the lead vest they give you at the dentist, but it's not likely. Same thing applies here. If we want to get real deep into it we need to took at the ionization energy of the wood to see which photons can cause damage and which behave like visible light. My bet is that oxidation is responsible for the color change and it would happen even in the dark. E: Caveat, I don't really know a whole lot about wood, I just know radiation. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 19:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hm, then maybe it doesn't need UV light to darken and I'm just talking poo poo. I know I've used a polyurethane finish on cherry and had it darken in sunlight. I was mostly just looking for confirmation from someone who has done it that it doesn't make it stay super pale. The internet at least seems to think that cherry darkens from both oxidation and light exposure (though not necessarily UV specifically).
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Jan 24, 2021 20:40
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Wss looking at this end table design as it's a) something I'd be comfortable tackling, b) doesn't look like screwed together 2x4's like a lot of others I've seen, and c) would teach me something new (half lap joints). https://jenwoodhouse.com/simple-diy-side-table/ Is there a more elegant way to attack the top to the legs other than just driving a few screws? I'm wondering about gluing with dowels, maybe...
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Jan 24, 2021 21:06
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Olothreutes posted:UV is blocked by nearly everything, unless the piece is outdoors it won't get much UV at all, and any layer forming finish will block it. The only finishes I can think of that won't prevent UV from reaching the wood are just oils that soak in but don't form a film layer. Ummmm, this is not true. Reduce the UV, yes, block and prevent color change? Not unless your room is a windowless basement. Olothreutes posted:E: Caveat, I don't really know a whole lot about wood, I just know radiation. Yeah, maybe realize that folks are talking about outcomes (will light change the color of wood) and not specifically about the wavelengths of light and clear film finishes. Wood is going to change color, you can cram UV blockers in the finish which will turn it yellow, and for the last 20 years ago you can cram blue UV blockers in there to try to keep it more "white" (this is what polycrylic does). However you are never going to totally stop the effect of direct or ambient UV light from eventually altering the color of wood. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 21:06
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:joke: Walnut and cherry have one goal in life and thats to eventually become the same color.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:12
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Wallet posted:I was mostly just looking for confirmation from someone who has done it that it doesn't make it stay super pale. The internet at least seems to think that cherry darkens from both oxidation and light exposure (though not necessarily UV specifically). Potassium dichromate/bichromate will also chemically replicate the effects of years of oxidation in about 5 minutes and produces the most gorgeous colors in cherry, but it is a quite toxic chemical and you need to take appropriate precautions (thick gloves, bunny suit, respirator, goggles). It's the most perfect treatment I've found for cherry, but do your research on if it is something you feel safe using. A weakish solution of lye has a similar effect and it is somewhat safer, but tends more towards the brown/purple vs. the warm orangey red/browns of potassium bichromate. If you look around in the drain cleaner section, there is one brand that is pure lye/sodium hydroxide crystals. Both have the advantage of aging the cherry so it won't get any darker so you know where you stand if you want to follow up with different dyes etc. Potassium permanganate has a similar effect, but I've not been super impressed with on cherry. Very nice on oak though, and much safer. I did some samples in my much neglected chair thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3928423&pagenumber=2#post508583834 Bouillon Rube posted:Would a knot like this in the leg of a step stool affect its integrity?
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Jan 24, 2021 21:14
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 Here is a SYP desktop (now my daughter's changing table) that was installed in a closet about 12 years ago. The closet didn't have doors on it for 9 of those years, and there is a window nearby but never any direct sunlight. This desktop was coated with 4 coats of Polycrylic and after it had completely cured I placed a steelseries plastic mousepad in that location with double sided tape, it didn't move until we were preparing the room to be my daughter's nursery 3.5 years ago. And no, its not dirt, the desk has been thoroughly cleaned numerous times. Light gonna find a way.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:21
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If you can see it, light is hitting it
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Jan 24, 2021 21:22
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GEMorris posted:Ummmm, this is not true. Reduce the UV, yes, block and prevent color change? Not unless your room is a windowless basement. Polycrylic eh. I put a water based polyurethane finish on some walnut living room furniture I made 20-odd years ago, and it has defied darkening- to my ire and chagrin. Now I know why.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:23
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One of the advertised points of marine-grade spar varnish, especially the good brands, is that it does a halfway OK job of blocking UV. For a while. When well maintained. Even so, it has to be refinished periodically because the UV protection doesn't last forever. Anything short of spar varnish is doing a very very poor job of blocking UV. Sure, it blocks some, but not nearly sufficient to prevent coloration changes in wood. e. also I imagine some UV blockers only address one of UVA vs. UVB, etc.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:25
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