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SEKCobra posted:
Assuming fusion, you mention it, and it's what I know. To construct such a plane you're looking for you need the plane along path function. Construct -> Plane Along Path. In the resulting dialog select the line you want to look along (the dashed). It will then let you set a distance type, proportional is easiest to use for this. It also lets you set a distance. In proportional this is the percentage along the path, 0 being the beginning point, 1 being the end point. Aurium fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Feb 5, 2021 |
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Feb 5, 2021 07:53
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Aurium posted:Assuming fusion, you mention it, and it's what I know. Oh right, that did the trick. But now I'm stuck on how to move my part to align with that plane, like how do I match the rotation/plane?
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Feb 5, 2021 08:10
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SEKCobra posted:Oh right, that did the trick. But now I'm stuck on how to move my part to align with that plane, like how do I match the rotation/plane? Assuming your whatever has a planar face you can align it with, Modify -> Align is trivial. Afterwards the move/copy tool will probably just work.
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Feb 5, 2021 08:36
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Aurium posted:Assuming your whatever has a planar face you can align it with, Modify -> Align is trivial. Ah crap, totally missed that. That worked perfectly, thanks!
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Feb 5, 2021 08:55
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Anyone know the gcode for bed leveling reporting in octoprint? Finally got the firmware updated and got the add on installed, but it's asking for gcode to get the info from the printer and that's something I dunno anything about. I don't want to level the bed, I'm just trying to use the visualizer plug in to see what it thinks my already (should be) leveled bed looks like.
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Feb 5, 2021 09:15
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Anyone know the gcode for bed leveling reporting in octoprint? Finally got the firmware updated and got the add on installed, but it's asking for gcode to get the info from the printer and that's something I dunno anything about. Looks like the T in G29 T generates the topology report that the plugin depends on, I don't see a separate command to generate the topology report on its own.
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Feb 5, 2021 10:08
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I want to get a flex plate for my Mars, is Wham Bam the go-to? There's cheaper ones on Amazon, and a bit of magnetic spring steel shouldn't be too pricey, but I'm wary of generic amazon poo poo these days.
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Feb 5, 2021 14:51
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Toebone posted:I want to get a flex plate for my Mars, is Wham Bam the go-to? There's cheaper ones on Amazon, and a bit of magnetic spring steel shouldn't be too pricey, but I'm wary of generic amazon poo poo these days. There are other brands, but Wham Bam is the go-to. I have been very satisfied with mine.
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Feb 5, 2021 15:24
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Is ease of dismounting prints the only benefit of those flexible plates? Do they complicate things any beyond needing z-axis compensation? I've thought about getting one but they're pretty low priority because I just don't really struggle with getting stuff off the plate.
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Feb 5, 2021 19:24
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Is ease of dismounting prints the only benefit of those flexible plates? Do they complicate things any beyond needing z-axis compensation? I've thought about getting one but they're pretty low priority because I just don't really struggle with getting stuff off the plate. Mostly. It also does help protect your plate from scrapes. But don't underestimate how awesome the quick swap is. think about the people who sing praises for the flexi build plates on FDM - just swap and start printing. Is it essential? No. Is it  yes. The only complication I've run into is if you forget to put the plate on first. You ruin the magnet doing that.
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Feb 5, 2021 19:46
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Doctor Zero posted:There are other brands, but Wham Bam is the go-to. I have been very satisfied with mine. Seconding this, I've got WB flex plates installed on both of my Mars and very satisfied with them so far. I do want to give a quick shout out to Fulament though; I haven't used their resin flex build plates yet, but I have their FDM one installed on my Ender 5 (the rough side/smooth side dual-sided one), and I've been super happy with it. And their customer service was top-notch, too; my brother ordered two flex plates, but they sent one of them in the wrong size. When he contacted their customer support, they responded super quick to his email and got the correct one out to him really fast. And they didn't even ask for the wrong one back. 
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Feb 5, 2021 20:20
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Doctor Zero posted:Mostly. It also does help protect your plate from scrapes. But don't underestimate how awesome the quick swap is. think about the people who sing praises for the flexi build plates on FDM - just swap and start printing. Is it essential? No. Is it Fair, the double plate setup where you just swap em out sweetens the pot a fair bit. I'm also looking to minimize how much gloved-hand contact I have with uncured resin, and cracking parts off the plate is definitely the main contributor; I was angling to set up a resin cure station with a bracket to suspend the entire build plate assembly in the alcohol but just tossing the plate in means the printer isn't out of commission until the washing's done.
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Feb 5, 2021 20:43
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Saw this and thought the meme/3d printing crossover would be funny. https://www.instagram.com/p/CK05KfLL6FB/
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Feb 5, 2021 21:51
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A friend of mine is looking to buy a 3d printer. He found this Flsun Q5 which I've never heard of so thats probably not a good sign. But also I remember people saying the delta printers were worse than the normal xyz ones. Is that still case? Prusa prices can  so I'd probably suggest the Ender instead or maybe of the Anycubic ones since I've had good experiences with them. I'm mostly familiar with SLA but that looked like a reasonable budget option.https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers--3d-printer-kits/pp_3009419448299003.html?wid=2000001#goodsDetail
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Feb 5, 2021 22:04
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mobby_6kl posted:A friend of mine is looking to buy a 3d printer. He found this Flsun Q5 which I've never heard of so thats probably not a good sign. But also I remember people saying the delta printers were worse than the normal xyz ones. Is that still case? Looks like a fine printer to me.. honestly. Deltas have their place. There are some people who want a delta, and only a delta will do..... It's build area isn't huge, but the printer itself is pretty small. And with a fixed bed, it the weight of the print doesn't affect printing. They're also real easy to enclose.
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Feb 5, 2021 22:42
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Saw this and thought the meme/3d printing crossover would be funny. This is hilarious 
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Feb 5, 2021 23:14
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Saw this and thought the meme/3d printing crossover would be funny. That sucks Because I didn’t think of it first. 
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Feb 5, 2021 23:40
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Nerobro posted:Looks like a fine printer to me.. honestly. Deltas have their place. There are some people who want a delta, and only a delta will do..... It's build area isn't huge, but the printer itself is pretty small. And with a fixed bed, it the weight of the print doesn't affect printing. They're also real easy to enclose. The thing is, I don't know if he wants a delta for any specific delta reason, or it was just the cheapest/smallest/looked the coolest. I'll try talking to him more to understand what he actually wants, maybe I'll even be able to convert him to the one true SAL approach instead.
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Feb 6, 2021 00:46
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If he's local to KCMO I have several Creality machines that need homes 
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Feb 6, 2021 01:44
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mobby_6kl posted:Thanks, I looked at a few reviews and it does look ok, but goons usually have pretty strong opinions on these I'm pro delta because I think they look dope as gently caress, but I've never used one and apparently they are a pain in the dick to calibrate vs a more normal printet
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Feb 6, 2021 01:58
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Saw this and thought the meme/3d printing crossover would be funny. "I am once again asking for the stl"
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Feb 6, 2021 02:23
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I got myself an Ender 3 v2 last week and it's been a very enjoyable experience for my first 3D printer. I've started building some addons like the filament guide and the cable chain, but I'd also like to throw a spare Pi 3B+ in the drawer for Octoprint. There's a lot of popular builds, but I'm not sure how to find ones that are compatible with the V2. I like the ones with the split Pi drawer on top and tools below, but it looks like they're mostly for the pro model which differs in dimensions. Any recommendations specific to the v2 Ender 3?
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Feb 6, 2021 02:54
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w00tmonger posted:I'm pro delta because I think they look dope as gently caress, but I've never used one and apparently they are a pain in the dick to calibrate vs a more normal printet With a Z-probe, it's exactly the same to calibrate.
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Feb 6, 2021 03:21
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insta posted:If he's local to KCMO I have several Creality machines that need homes w00tmonger posted:I'm pro delta because I think they look dope as gently caress, but I've never used one and apparently they are a pain in the dick to calibrate vs a more normal printet ImplicitAssembler posted:With a Z-probe, it's exactly the same to calibrate. From the review I've seen of that specific printer, it auto-calibrates itself by touching the build platform in a few places, so that seems as straightforward is it could be.
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Feb 6, 2021 09:11
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Only downside to that printer I could really see was the kinda small build volume. It's about 8 inches, so not enough for big stuff like helmets, but big enough for sliced up big stuff.
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Feb 6, 2021 12:47
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Anyone have experience with Dikale PETG? Picked up a pack of a lot of different colors and I’m scratching my head on this stuff. A few disclaimers: I’m new to this, and it admittedly seems like a bit of a cheapish manufacturer. I think I just need to spend some time dialing this stuff in. I had great luck printing with Hatchbox PETG, but this Dikale stuff is a goddamn mess. Stringy as hell, bad bed adhesion, previous layers curl up and stick to the nozzle generally screwing everything up. The box it came in references PLAeven though the spools are marked PETG, and the bed/hotend temperatures listed on the spools seem to be way closer to PLA than what I’d expect for PETG. I’m going to dry this stuff out today and troubleshoot this stuff tomorrow, I’m just looking to see if anyone’s had similar experience with this filament. Any tips on how to troubleshoot this would be nice as well, I have a good idea what I need to do, but I’m firmly in the screw-with-things-and-see-what-works phase of learning here.
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Feb 6, 2021 17:16
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Only downside to that printer I could really see was the kinda small build volume. It's about 8 inches, so not enough for big stuff like helmets, but big enough for sliced up big stuff. Thanks for the feedback. I told him to go ahead since the lack of space for the printer is a concern and this one is about as compact ad it gets for fdm.
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Feb 6, 2021 20:11
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Just picked up a slightly used Sainsmart Ender 3 Pro for $120 to be a big bro to my Prusa Mini+. What obvious upgrades should I be looking at beyond control board, BLTouch & all metal extruder?
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Feb 6, 2021 21:11
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Bodanarko posted:Just picked up a slightly used Sainsmart Ender 3 Pro for $120 to be a big bro to my Prusa Mini+. What obvious upgrades should I be looking at beyond control board, BLTouch & all metal extruder? Sounds like you're aiming to give yourself a headache. Build it stock, build it well. For "less work", putting on yellow springs is a good plan. The metal extruder... well.. you'll need that eventually, but I think, maybe... those failures are user failure. BLTouch is rarely an easy or problem free thing. And... the stock control board and sofware is complete and works fine.
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Feb 6, 2021 21:50
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Bodanarko posted:Just picked up a slightly used Sainsmart Ender 3 Pro for $120 to be a big bro to my Prusa Mini+. What obvious upgrades should I be looking at beyond control board, BLTouch & all metal extruder? Don't get a BLTouch unless you have a compelling reason to do so. Better springs will save more trouble with bed leveling than a BLTouch. You don't need an all-metal hotend unless you need to print hot. There's really no reason to buy one if you don't. The silent board upgrade is nice to have, but keep in mind that the 8-bit boards are actually really reliable. If it's used, thoroughly check that everything is square. You should also check the plastic extruder arm for cracks, but maybe just buy a metal one to replace it. You can be lazy and just replace the arm. Better couplers and Capricorn tubing are a good, cheap "upgrade." Not really necessary, but might save you headaches in the future. That's all you really need to do.
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Feb 7, 2021 04:23
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mobby_6kl posted:8 inches is small? This is very unsettling. For reference, my printer has a print area of 400x400x450. The delta is awesome, just a lot of people get into the hobby to print big poo poo like batman cowls and iron man helmets. It's nice to do that in one go, but there's nothing wrong with slicing and gluing/welding a model together. The downside to a massive print area is basically the real estate that fucker takes up cause lemme tell ya, it's pretty goddamn big and that's before it starts throwing the bed back and forth.
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Feb 7, 2021 04:56
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Giant printers are a mistake. I wish I hadn't built a 350mm. Printing anything that big in one piece is never actually the best idea, so I'm just stuck paying out the nose for XXL consumables like PEI and wasting a ton of bed heat 99% of the time.
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Feb 7, 2021 05:20
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eddiewalker posted:Giant printers are a mistake. lol, what?.
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Feb 7, 2021 05:26
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PEI nearly doubles in price if you go from 300mm to 350mm. Similar jumps for metal beds and flex plates. For a heated chamber, going from 300 to 350 is 60% more enclosure volume and means way longer pre-heat times. Longer belts mean I have to run acceleration a fair bit lower. Even at 120mm/s and with a 0.6mm nozzle, anything that comes close to filling the print volume is a multi-day print. If you're printing lots of little things on one bed, every extra piece is another chance of something popping off and ruining the whole job. Everyone says "ooooh I want one giant printer that can do everything," but small and fast is the pro move. How many dumb helmets are you actually printing? eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Feb 7, 2021 |
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Feb 7, 2021 05:38
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mobby_6kl posted:8 inches is small? This is very unsettling. For context the Prusa mk3 is 9.8x8.3in. (250 x 210mm). While delta beds are round, so the area is a bit smaller, it's still a very usable size.
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Feb 7, 2021 05:47
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Nevermind. I've used my 310x310mm build area to it's fullest often enough to be worthwhile.
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Feb 7, 2021 06:04
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eddiewalker posted:PEI nearly doubles in price if you go from 300mm to 350mm. Similar jumps for metal beds and flex plates. For a heated chamber, going from 300 to 350 is 60% more enclosure volume and means way longer pre-heat times. Longer belts mean I have to run acceleration a fair bit lower. Even at 120mm/s and with a 0.6mm nozzle, anything that comes close to filling the print volume is a multi-day print. If you're printing lots of little things on one bed, every extra piece is another chance of something popping off and ruining the whole job. you built a 350mm Voron v2 didn't you
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Feb 7, 2021 06:08
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insta posted:you built a 350mm Voron v2 didn't you I should chop my z in half.
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Feb 7, 2021 06:30
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I'd rather have a conveyor belt printer than a huge one personally. (I've owned and used neither) Question, I was trying to print some openLOCK wargaming terrain last night and the tiles have lots of tiny little Islands, meaning tons of tiny extrude/retract moves. Predictably when I woke up it had crushed/snapped the filament due to running over the same point dozens of times. How do people deal with this, other than making their own, better designs without the tiny Islands? For reference it was a half dozen parts from this set: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016230 if you look at the underside of most pieces it has little columns everywhere.
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Feb 7, 2021 10:40
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Had my first FEP failure on my Photon Mono. Oddly enough it's in a corner that the plate doesn't even contact so not sure why it failed, looks like a tiny little slit. Tension failure? I'm debating between the Anycubic bolt on pack (2 for $37) or switching to a Sovol vat and film (2 for $50) that will allow me to reinstall my own FEP. I'm thinking the Sovol, but is there a compelling reason to stick with the Anycubic bolt on?
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Feb 7, 2021 15:48
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