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Placentaur posted:So I wanna start painting some minis and I was going through my old traditional art supplies and it turns out I have a raphael 8404 which is recommended in the OP, but it's size 4, is this going to be a problem? The tip is still really nice so I'm assuming it won't be but I wanna check with the experts here. Raphaels already run a bit big so 4 might be getting to the size where it could be inconvenient. Still totally usable though. I used a size 2 Raphael as my main brush for awhile and it was great.
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Mar 5, 2021 02:39
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Placentaur posted:So I wanna start painting some minis and I was going through my old traditional art supplies and it turns out I have a raphael 8404 which is recommended in the OP, but it's size 4, is this going to be a problem? The tip is still really nice so I'm assuming it won't be but I wanna check with the experts here. A size 4 might be a little unwieldy in tight spaces but yeah as long as the tip is in good shape it will be fine for most things. You'll certainly appreciate it for basecoating, and if you're doing glazes and stuff, having a larger brush belly is actually a benefit since it means your paint won't dry out as quickly and you'll have a larger painting surface which means smoother blends (as long as the side of the brush fits on the piece you're painting). If you plan on doing a lot of detail work you might want to eventually invest in a size 1 to squeeze into those tight angles, but honestly you don't need anything smaller than that. I do all my extreme detail work with a size 1, including eyes / pupil reflections and I've never found myself wanting anything tinier.
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Mar 5, 2021 02:43
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:A size 4 might be a little unwieldy in tight spaces but yeah as long as the tip is in good shape it will be fine for most things. You'll certainly appreciate it for basecoating, and if you're doing glazes and stuff, having a larger brush belly is actually a benefit since it means your paint won't dry out as quickly and you'll have a larger painting surface which means smoother blends (as long as the side of the brush fits on the piece you're painting). Size 4 would be ok for some base coating work. An 8404 size 3 is my largest brush, I use a 2 and a 1 for almost everything else.
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Mar 5, 2021 03:17
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This is my first time doing tiger print, first time wet blending, first time edge highlighting black with 4 colors. I'm really trying to push my skills and get better. I know I could be a bit neater on the highlights, but I think I did alright for a first shot! Also this was my first go at City bases.   I royally hosed the brown fur, but at least I know what not to do. Gotta figure out how to fix it.
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Mar 5, 2021 03:21
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Awesome, thanks everyone.Kabuki Shipoopi posted:This is my first time doing tiger print This looks really good
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Mar 5, 2021 03:37
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:This is my first time doing tiger print, Could've fooled me.
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Mar 5, 2021 03:38
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On the topic of brushes... I got a set of the Bomb Wick brushes from Monument Hobbies. Can't say that I'm a fan of them. They're nice brushes, but they don't hold much of a point once they're wet with paint. I'm having to use the 0 brushes to do details that I used to easily do with my Da Vinci of W&N #2s. For half the price of a high end brush I wasn't expecting perfection, but I was hoping for closer to the same performance.
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Mar 5, 2021 04:28
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bit more progress on the Blade Bois
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Mar 5, 2021 05:20
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God I love your yellow. Also thanks for the heads up about Conversion World earlier. Meanwhile my WIP Deathwatch Black Dragon bike mans  I was so preoccupied with whether or not I could, I didn't stop to ask myself if I should.
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Mar 5, 2021 06:19
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AndyElusive posted:God I love your yellow. Also thanks for the heads up about Conversion World earlier. You did the right thing. drat.
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Mar 5, 2021 06:23
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AndyElusive posted:
and God willing, you never will.
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Mar 5, 2021 06:26
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Placentaur posted:Also I wanna use some contrast paints but I don't necessarily want to wait for the Greyseer primer to ship here from the GW warehouse. I'm going to mix some vallejo white with some vallejo grey and brush it on, but will I need to thin the primer with water? No thinning is necessary.
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Mar 5, 2021 06:42
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Contrast paints work best over a warm basecoat, so it might be better to mix your vallejo white primer with like a drop of yellow ink instead to make yourself more of an ivory primer
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Mar 5, 2021 09:03
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jesus WEP posted:Contrast paints work best over a warm basecoat, so it might be better to mix your vallejo white primer with like a drop of yellow ink instead to make yourself more of an ivory primer Oh, rad! I have some liquitex inks lying around, I'll do this. On a similar note, would I need to treat the inks differently at all to use them like a wash? I'd assume not because they're acrylics, but I don't think I actually know the difference between an ink and a wash/shade in regards to painting miniatures?
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Mar 5, 2021 10:39
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grots grots grots
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Mar 5, 2021 13:31
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Winklebottom posted:grots grots grots I really like the cool purple shading on the skin. Looks great the blue-black robes.
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Mar 5, 2021 13:58
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Winklebottom posted:grots grots grots Love them! Starting up a small series on how I paint these Gloomhaven models 
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Mar 5, 2021 17:12
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I've got a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush and it works great for priming, basecoating and some basic shading, but I've been thinking about getting a new brush that will do detail better. Are the Sotar 2020 brushes pretty good, are would I be better off spending a little more and picking up a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity or something like that?
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Mar 5, 2021 17:14
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Working on Incubi for a gift. First time painting any Eldar, each one took about 30 minutes in total. Steps as follows:
 Still got to finish the bases but not bad for a first run. There's a lot of detail bits I didn't bother with cause my eyes hurt and my brushes suck. In any case I'd love a critique. The Demilich fucked around with this message at 02:08 on May 22, 2022 |
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Mar 5, 2021 17:51
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AndyElusive posted:God I love your yellow. Also thanks for the heads up about Conversion World earlier. Thanks! It's funny, I've seen a lot of really complex recipes for yellow, but mine is fairly straightforward, but the airbrush is the real hero. Stynylrez white primer>Averland Sunset>Yriel Yellow>Gloss Varnish (let it cure for a good day or two)>Seraphim Sepia pinwash I use Lamenters on my troops, but Veterans I leave it out, gives the armor a different tint. The idea came from forgetting to do it on my Veteran Intercessors, but it worked out bc that slightly different tint makes their armor stand out TheBigAristotle fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Mar 5, 2021 |
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Mar 5, 2021 19:22
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Skails posted:Gut reaction says blue. This was correct.  Worked so well, I worked a little blue into the chainswords of the rest of the unit. The recruit box:  Found an Indomitus box in Calgary for retail (I think) so that's the next batch. I think I need to re-think how the knees are going to work. I might try taking the inverted color all the way up the guards at the top of the kneecap armour. Also, the Pauldrons on these were a disaster. Guess it's time to get a #0 brush. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Mar 5, 2021 |
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Mar 5, 2021 21:02
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Placentaur posted:Awesome, thanks everyone. Yeast posted:Could've fooled me. Thanks!
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Mar 6, 2021 00:23
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The Demilich posted:Working on Incubi for a gift. This is good poo poo, and shows what you can pull off with some basic techniques. Really solid at 30 a piece
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Mar 6, 2021 01:18
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Hey newbie question here: I'm halfway through my first company of 15mm infantry and finding the Vallejo green paint I'm using is really thin; what's a good way to thicken it up a little?
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Mar 6, 2021 06:00
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StashAugustine posted:Hey newbie question here: I'm halfway through my first company of 15mm infantry and finding the Vallejo green paint I'm using is really thin; what's a good way to thicken it up a little? If you mean the paint is actually super watered down already, there is no good way. Since you're a newbie. I'm guessing you actually mean the paint is somewhat translucent and not opaque. You can paint several thin coats to up the opaqueness, but it's usually better to use a more opaque color to begin with. Alternatively, you can paint it white, then paint over the white with green.
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Mar 6, 2021 06:22
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It’s Zombie Beholderin’ time 
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Mar 6, 2021 06:34
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Another weekend, another ork painted. This was a bit of a test since I was thinking a scheme kind of like this for my Morgok's Krushas. Maybe the dark grey/black is too dark, and I will probably go for a lighter ork skin tone, but very happy with how the blue/teal came out. Before going back to orks I also have some Stormcast to paint. I've primed the first one but I get this craquelure on the dried model. Is that due to overspraying and pooling or something else? It's happened before but not really to this degree I don't think. You can actually see it a bit on the lower tip of the axe head on the ork. I've been priming with Corax White. 
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Mar 6, 2021 09:48
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Barf Wight posted:Before going back to orks I also have some Stormcast to paint. I've primed the first one but I get this craquelure on the dried model. Is that due to overspraying and pooling or something else? It's happened before but not really to this degree I don't think. You can actually see it a bit on the lower tip of the axe head on the ork. I've been priming with Corax White. Yeah, that looks like overpriming to me. Try spraying from a bit further away, and do it in short bursts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GV85SO2u1A
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Mar 6, 2021 10:31
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Can someone remind me how to get that heated steel effect on a gun barrel? I've seen it in here a few times and would have sworn I'd made a note of it, but... I think it was a blue wash and a purple wash maybe?
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Mar 6, 2021 12:22
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SiKboy posted:Can someone remind me how to get that heated steel effect on a gun barrel? I've seen it in here a few times and would have sworn I'd made a note of it, but... I think it was a blue wash and a purple wash maybe? Like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C8fbwG0904
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Mar 6, 2021 12:29
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That'll do! I'd swear theres someone in here who's posted a few models with the same effect though, and every time they do someone says "That looks great, how did you do those gun barrels?" and their explanation is "easily, with these washes in this order".
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Mar 6, 2021 12:43
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Winklebottom posted:Yeah, that looks like overpriming to me. Try spraying from a bit further away, and do it in short bursts That is probably it, thanks. I have definitely been doing longer bursts closer to the models than this.
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Mar 6, 2021 13:32
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StashAugustine posted:Hey newbie question here: I'm halfway through my first company of 15mm infantry and finding the Vallejo green paint I'm using is really thin; what's a good way to thicken it up a little? Mix in a bit of white (it doesn't take much) to make the paint opaque for your first coat and then do a second coat of pure green. You could also just base coat white.
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Mar 6, 2021 13:57
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  Wip. Going for a worn leather coat.
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Mar 6, 2021 14:28
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StashAugustine posted:Hey newbie question here: I'm halfway through my first company of 15mm infantry and finding the Vallejo green paint I'm using is really thin; what's a good way to thicken it up a little? Is it visibly thin in the bottle? You might need to really shake the poo poo out of it, especially if it's a model color.
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Mar 6, 2021 17:58
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I'm working on kitbashing an Eldritch Cannon mini for my Artificer Gnome I'm working on for D&D and I have a first draft put together. Observations: A) It's... A bit big. However, an Artificer can just roll out of bed in the morning and make a burlap sack a Bag of Holding, so I'm sure he knows a thing or two about folding space and pocket dimensions. B) The gun barrels might be a bit too long. I might need a different solution. Still pretty happy since it's my first 100% kitbash. EDIT: Dug through my bits for a... Bit. And found a stubbier gun 
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Mar 6, 2021 18:01
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Anyone have any thought on the watery part of swamp bases? Hopefully just some crap you paint on and stays put not some crazy resin method that needs a dam round the edge. I'm working on Death Guard and my original plan had been to use the Nurgle's Rot technical paint as the puddle goop, but a test base has shown that it dries an incredibly luminous/bilious colour, even when applied as a very thin layer. I want something that's filthy and stagnant looking but still has a bit of gloss to it. The only other water effects I have on hand is an ancient Citadel bottle which I suspect is just some form of PVA and remains very tacky when it's set. I could just paint it and varnish, but I'm also going to be using tiny twigs as dead branches/roots and have some grass tufts in the pools. Also got some scale model leaves that can be floating on top here and there. That's all going to need some depth to sell the effect (even if only a mm or so.)
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Mar 6, 2021 20:38
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Shallow posted:Anyone have any thought on the watery part of swamp bases? Hopefully just some crap you paint on and stays put not some crazy resin method that needs a dam round the edge. They make still water effects that you don't have to mix together. Vallejo and woodland scenics are two good brands for this. Vince ventruella has a video on it but he basically just takes a little bit of WS Realistic water and adds it over a painted base. Also that water effect has a little bit of ink mixed in as he doesn't just pour it straight from the bottle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQUk61JpnlQ Either of these: https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ26...ps%2C182&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Sce...15060414&sr=8-3 Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Mar 6, 2021 |
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Mar 6, 2021 20:49
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Gloss mod podge also works, in a pinch
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Mar 6, 2021 22:27
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Spanish Manlove posted:They make still water effects that you don't have to mix together. Vallejo and woodland scenics are two good brands for this. Vince ventruella has a video on it but he basically just takes a little bit of WS Realistic water and adds it over a painted base. Also that water effect has a little bit of ink mixed in as he doesn't just pour it straight from the bottle. Yeah that's the stuff - I definitely want something I can tint myself and I already shaded the area of base where the goop will go. I counter-shaded though, since it looks like it works a lot better for murk. I found a video using paint rather than ink or glaze to tint and it seems more like the murk I want. I ended up drifting onto Vince's industrial base video and it reminded me I wanted to put bubbles in some pools too. I've ordered some tiny mixed-size solid glass beads that are supposed to be for nail art off ebay (rather than do Vince's silica gel method which I'm iffy about, or the other popular one of hacking open a water filter.) Any that are too big for basing can become paint agitators. Of course I've now spent a solid two hours watching videos and looking for more hobby supplies on ebay instead of actually painting anything this evening like I was going to, oops.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:02
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