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Cat Pancakes posted:Anyone have any strong opinions of oil restrictor bolts and catch cans on stock engine cars? Got a project MS3, doing a bunch of suspension work to it, plus the rear motor mount, it clunks sometimes if you start too abruptly from a stop, plus lol torque steer. It doesn't seem to smoke but I would also like to preserve my non smoking turbo, and keep my valves from being a nightmare No input but pics/details please
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Mar 5, 2021 18:30
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Corksport was the favorite for catch cans from what I recall.
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Mar 5, 2021 19:12
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opengl128 posted:No input but pics/details please  Ill get better photos one day when the sun isn't popping off Its a 2008.5 in black, 132k miles, after a wastegate replacement it runs great and pulls hard. Need a a bumper and fender, passenger side took a hit before I got it but its not bad at all, tracks dead straight, able to be aligned to spec no problem, currently zip tied up but I have a lead on a fender and bumper... 3.5 hours away... Being in Baltimore the suspension has seen better better days, but its not trashed, putting on Koni oranges and new endlinks and bushings where needed, plus it needs a tie rod end and fresh clearcoat on the wing, but thats all minor stuff. Overall its fairly clean, not much rust at all, going to clean up the few little spots and hit em with paint. besides where it got hit there's not really any dents or scratches, and with the exception of the chrome on the steering wheel badge flaking, its interior looks new. Plus the time chain was done about ~10k ago, so it should be good for a while, plenty of meat left on the brake pads Its not full "project" but its more than I wanted to do buying a car, but I have a lot of free time right now and the price was right at 3600 + trading in my terrible Ford Focus that I got for cheap 2 years ago and has only gotten worse (stained to hell light grey seats, literal rats nest in the engine bay, dying wheel bearing, the terrible DCT that after 2 recalls still was fucky, a fuel issue where Ford says it MAY stall at highway speeds if driven with less than 25% fuel in the tank) I did miss having fun cars though, and picking my own gears. Ive had an e36 M3 and an R56 Cooper S and this actually feels like a fun middle ground between them in a way Cat Pancakes fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Mar 5, 2021 |
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Mar 5, 2021 19:33
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Hell yes. Drive and enjoy the heck out of it.
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Mar 5, 2021 21:12
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Cat Pancakes posted:Anyone have any strong opinions of oil restrictor bolts and catch cans on stock engine cars? Got a project MS3, doing a bunch of suspension work to it, plus the rear motor mount, it clunks sometimes if you start too abruptly from a stop, plus lol torque steer. It doesn't seem to smoke but I would also like to preserve my non smoking turbo, and keep my valves from being a nightmare The Mazdaspeed facebook group seems to like the Damond Motorsports oil catch cans. There are various options, and I have no idea which is supposed to be the "best" one. I was concerned about carbon buildup for a while when I got the car, and considered buying a catch can or an oil-air separator, but never really settled on one. I'm sure my intake valves or yucky now. I feel like there was talk about if oil catch cans actually reduced or prevented carbon buildup on the intake valves. I think you would also have to do an EGR delete, and I'm not sure if there are any negative consequences to the EGR delete. Something about higher exhaust gas temps? Cat Pancakes posted:
Was the car in an accident or are these replacement headlights? My 2009 MS3 GT has black (not chrome) headlights. 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Mar 6, 2021 |
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Mar 6, 2021 08:52
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So I was cleaning up and I found this It's a CS adjustable shift knob https://corksport.com/corksport-aluminum-shift-knob.html I sold the MS6 a year ago and thought this was in the glove box. Would anyone want this thing? CHEAP.
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Mar 6, 2021 09:02
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Seeing pics of the gen 1 mazda3s make me miss mine. Hardly see them in Ontario anymore because, y'know, rust.
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Mar 6, 2021 14:48
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Rhyno posted:So I was cleaning up and I found this How hot does that thing get in the summer?
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Mar 6, 2021 14:55
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MetaJew posted:Was the car in an accident or are these replacement headlights? My 2009 MS3 GT has black (not chrome) headlights. Yeah those are definitely aftermarket headlights.
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Mar 6, 2021 15:40
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MetaJew posted:
Yeah it took a hit on the passenger side. Oem lights are on my list but not a priority. Not sure about an EGR delete, wouldn't that impact emissions? We have to get tests every 2 years here. I feel like a catch can should reduce carbon build up since it reduces the amount of oil getting through your PCV line to your intake. Cat Pancakes fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Mar 6, 2021 |
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Mar 6, 2021 16:53
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Cat Pancakes posted:Yeah it took a hit on the passenger side. Oem lights are on my list but not a priority. You may try googling or looking on the Mazdaspeed Forums, but I remember reading people saying that the oil catch can alone didn't seem to have a huge effect on buildup on the intake valves. As for the EGR delete, you'll need a Cobb AP or some other tuner to delete the associated EGR codes. On the other hand you won't have to worry/bother about the code for a stuck EGR valve that inevitably happens.
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Mar 6, 2021 20:51
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MetaJew posted:How hot does that thing get in the summer? Oh buddy. I kept a sock on it. Blazing hot in summer, ice cold in winter.
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Mar 6, 2021 21:00
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Rhyno posted:Oh buddy. I kept a sock on it. Blazing hot in summer, ice cold in winter. I was very unhappy when the dealer/service shop left my car in the Texas summer sun without putting the sunshade in and I burned my palm on the OEM shifter. A full metal shift knob seems like masochism. In other news, I jiggled around my timing chain through the oil cap opening and it seems like I may need to get the timing chain, tensioner, VVT assembly replaced. More and more I feel like just keeping the car on the road, but it looks like a lot of labor/time to do that particular job it and I'm debating if it's worth trying to do it myself, or just have the dealer do it and eat the cost.
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Mar 7, 2021 07:16
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Had the Cobb knob since the first summer I owned the car and it doesn't get hot or cold. The paint is wearing off on the base but it's still scratch free too.
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Mar 7, 2021 14:41
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So I found the rattle I was chasing, a bit of my rear passenger spring broke and is making a racket in the spring perch.... Anyone have any old gen 1 speed 3 springs you want to sell me? In other news, new shocks are in as well as a driver side tie rod end, L+R rear trailing arm bushings, end links and sway bar bushings. Drives so much better and tighter now. got quoted 600$ labor to do the RTABs so im pretty drat glad to have been able to do it (with the help of a 150$ tool... oh well, still saved money.)
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Mar 13, 2021 21:02
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Cat Pancakes posted:So I found the rattle I was chasing, a bit of my rear passenger spring broke and is making a racket in the spring perch.... Anyone have any old gen 1 speed 3 springs you want to sell me? Where did you get the tool for the rear trailing arm bushing? I had been thinking about tackling that, but like you said, the tool was spendy.
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Mar 15, 2021 18:34
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MetaJew posted:Where did you get the tool for the rear trailing arm bushing? I had been thinking about tackling that, but like you said, the tool was spendy. I got mine on Ebay, but apparently it was just an Amazon affiliate? I saw a bunch for sale in the UK but I needed it this month. If you paypal me shipping and swear to mail it back I would be willing to lend it out, I shouldn't need it for awhile... That being said, I found it impossible to use it "right", you're supposed to press out the bushings from the "outside" of the car in, then press them in from the "inside". However, the rear trailing arm is not flat on the outside, making pressing in bushings straight a nightmare as the base of the press wants to rock side to side. After messing up my first one and having to run to the parts store on my bike to get a replacement, I decided to just press them in from the outside. I don't see why this would be an issue, as they are otherwise aligned, but I'm sure someone can tell me reasons why I'm wrong. haven't checked alignment yet, going to do that once my new shocks and rear springs have a chance to settle.
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Mar 15, 2021 21:39
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Cat Pancakes posted:I got mine on Ebay, but apparently it was just an Amazon affiliate? I saw a bunch for sale in the UK but I needed it this month. Yeah, I'm good for lending and returning tools. Was it very difficult to access and get to the stage of pressing out/in the bushing? The bushing alone is so much cheaper than a new trailing arm that it seems like a no-brainer. I have no idea when I would do that job, so these are just hypotheticals.
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Mar 16, 2021 07:03
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Once I figured out my process, the second one went real easy.Get the wheels off, then take off the plastic cover [2x10mm, and a built in clip] unclip the ABS wire from the control arm [2x clips, 1x 10mm]. Jack up the knuckle a little to take tension off the bolts and limit travel, you will have a hell of a time breaking these lose if the suspension can travel up and down a lot. Unbolt the control arms, plus the shock from the knuckle, but dont undo the ones to the chassis [17mm, 1x each] then unbolt the bushing from the chassis [2x17mm]. Remove the jack from under the knuckle and use a pry bar to gently wiggle the control arm out so it has more range of movement. The only thing that should really be holding it up now is the arm that the spring is on. Gently pull down on the bushing end of the arm, it shouldn't take much resistance, and should be pretty easy to pull down far enough to put your pry bar or a piece of wood between it and the bottom of your car to hold it in place while you press it out. Don't forget to mark the orientation of it, if its too far off it will accelerate the wear on the bushing Reassembly is the inverse basically, but I would bolt the bushing to the frame first, as its pretty hard to get it to line up. Obviously YMMV on all this, and I'm also writing it from memory, heres some resources to help you though! Torque specs: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/ms3-suspension-tq-specs.6939/ Some shop doing the procedure on a 5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RttAs7aJQ4U Though, I didn't see it necessary to remove the spring, and their tool is slightly different, and is able to push them in the "right way".
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Mar 16, 2021 17:51
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https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/d/goodyear-mazda/7288901405.html Are there any real issues with these things?
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Mar 16, 2021 22:35
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The infotainment screen is prone to failing (either delaminates or the touch layer fails) and they do show their age more easily than a Toyota or whatever (stuff like the seat fabrics, interior trim and paint don't have the best longevity) Aside from that they're rock solid
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Mar 16, 2021 23:15
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Okay. Weirdly phrased question because I'm not enough of a mechanic to know how to correctly ask it. Initially redacting context to not taint the answers. Fellow third gen 3 owners w/ 2.5L and auto. What are the "shift points" for yours like? I know they're not one exact set of RPMs and speeds, but roughly what RPMs/speeds does your transmission shift at in normal driving (ie, while already underway, not initial acceleration)? Yes, I'm still having transmission problems all this time later. No, neither dealership near me has become useful at all; one still maintains they haven't replaced their only transmission qualified technician (they'd have folded by now if they were that bad at staffing), the other cancels anything I try to set up through their web portal and requires times that I cannot make happen so that "the car is here when tech line is open"; "drop the car off" has been repeatedly refused as an option too, even though it solves the problem. So I'm still trying to figure out what is going on by working backwards from "normal" behavior. Right now it seems like my car is shifting far too early (ca. 2k rpm across the board) and I'm ending up in much higher gears at lower speeds than I should be - by 50 mph I've hit the point where it won't shift up any further short of pedal-to-floor behavior.
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Mar 17, 2021 00:14
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SkyeAuroline posted:Okay. Weirdly phrased question because I'm not enough of a mechanic to know how to correctly ask it. Initially redacting context to not taint the answers. I am not sure I am the best to respond, haven't really been driving much at all lately and when I do drive I have a somewhat lead foot, but even in non sport mine will hold revs a lot longer than that, sometimes even up to 5k even only half throttle. I am pretty sure I am making it up but when I think about how the trans behaved when I first got the car 3 years ago versus more recently it seems to me to hold gears longer as some sort of learning from how (hard) I drive in 'normal' driving. I am 95% that is all in my head but I can say I definitely don't experience shifts like that unless I am extremely light on the throttle.
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Mar 17, 2021 00:26
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TheBacon posted:I am not sure I am the best to respond, haven't really been driving much at all lately and when I do drive I have a somewhat lead foot, but even in non sport mine will hold revs a lot longer than that, sometimes even up to 5k even only half throttle. I am pretty sure I am making it up but when I think about how the trans behaved when I first got the car 3 years ago versus more recently it seems to me to hold gears longer as some sort of learning from how (hard) I drive in 'normal' driving. I am 95% that is all in my head but I can say I definitely don't experience shifts like that unless I am extremely light on the throttle. Yeah, I'm not being light on the pedal here either, my daily commute is highway driving and above 50 mph is a mess. The "learning" bit is something that mechanics have mentioned, though it's entirely possible it's bullshit. Sport... just sounds plain bad from the driver's seat right now so I don't really test it. and here the whole point of buying new instead of used for once was "mazda reliability" and "if it's under warranty the dealer has to fix problems"; meanwhile 9 months and 10k miles of the dealer refusing to even see it, and corporate backing up the dealer, later...
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Mar 17, 2021 00:35
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I feel for you, def sucks and getting the run around from everyone just makes it worse. I actually had some errands to run today and specifically noted how the throttle and trans interacted. If I went ‘light’ like probably most normal people acceleration, maybe 10% throttle I would get about 2k rpm shifts to at least 4th. Only surface roads so not really able to go faster than that. If I gave it about 20% throttle it would hold until 2.5k rpm for 1st-2nd at least. Also it’s not entirely apples to apples, just because mine is a 2014, so first year 3rd gen and possible programming has changed since then.
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Mar 17, 2021 01:59
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I appreciate you giving it a look regardless. Last time I got the runaround I ended up taking it up to the next closest dealer... 45ish miles by freeway away. Not quite sure I trust it at 85 mph right now. So, big ol' waiting game of "how long until something breaks down or someone gets their poo poo together".
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Mar 17, 2021 02:09
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If you're driving gently then I'd expect it to be in 6th by 50mph - the Skyactiv-G engines have no top end at all and the transmission is tuned to suit. It does depend on how much throttle you're going it though and that's quite difficult for us to judge. Personally I'd go drive another similar model, similar age car and see how it compares to yours. BTW why wouldn't you trust it at high speeds? It's going to be in 6th gear regardless of whether you're cruising at 60 or 80
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Mar 17, 2021 02:26
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dissss posted:. Because I've been driving it since 122 miles on the odometer and I know it's not supposed to have the acceleration drop off a cliff to almost nothing and start loudly vibrating; unfortunately that's what it's decided to start doing above 55ish. Not being especially gentle, as much as I can give it without slamming into the car in front of me. e: also no dealers in my region have a single one. All 2.0L, no 2.5L. e2 not really worth adding another comment for: did go and record 10 minutes of driving today, can stick it somewhere if having another pair of eyes on it is smart. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 02:29
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BlackMK4 posted:https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/d/goodyear-mazda/7288901405.html I had a 2014 3, it was dead reliable and one of the best driving cars I've ever driven. What someone said about the aging is most likely true, and the infotainment wasn't that great when it was new, but that's not too uncommon with other brands too.
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Mar 17, 2021 11:51
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I have a 15' 3 Touring that's pretty much identical to that car save for a 6MT and it has also been fantastic. The only thing that's ever broken on it in over 3 years of ownership was the brake light switch I posted about earlier. I put the android auto/car play upgrade in mine so the aged infotainment system is never an issue. The touch screen is wonky but you can operate the infotainment with the command knob just fine, and I prefer it anyways. The paint does indeed suck. I took a dent on my hood from a falling tree limb a while back and I think when I have that repaired I'll have some kind of clear bra put on to preserve it a little better. Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 13:04
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Thanks everyone, I might snag the thing this weekend. 
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Mar 17, 2021 16:47
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BlackMK4 posted:Thanks everyone, I might snag the thing this weekend. I looked at the ad, the only thing missing is the HUD, but that's hardly a deal breaker. Android auto takes most of the infotainment pain away as well.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:35
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Wibla posted:I looked at the ad, the only thing missing is the HUD, but that's hardly a deal breaker. Android auto takes most of the infotainment pain away as well. Yea, and it's not too difficult to do the upgrade yourself, I did it on my cx5 in like an hour.
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Mar 17, 2021 22:46
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dissss posted:The infotainment screen is prone to failing (either delaminates or the touch layer fails) and they do show their age more easily than a Toyota or whatever (stuff like the seat fabrics, interior trim and paint don't have the best longevity) Mazda Canada replaced mine under warranty on my 2014 last year when it failed. I am not the original owner of the car so it was a pleasant surprise. There was a recall of some sort in Canada and I suspect something similar would be on offer in the US. Beyond that, as others have noted, these cars are rock solid. And CarPlay/Android Auto update is great and pretty easy to do at home.
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Mar 17, 2021 23:36
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mexecan posted:Mazda Canada replaced mine under warranty on my 2014 last year when it failed. I am not the original owner of the car so it was a pleasant surprise. There was a recall of some sort in Canada and I suspect something similar would be on offer in the US.
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Mar 18, 2021 15:46
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Yea, and it's not too difficult to do the upgrade yourself, I did it on my cx5 in like an hour. Upgrade what? It already has android auto per the ad.
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Mar 18, 2021 16:28
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I looked up the VIN and it seems like the original owner (from Arizona) traded it in to a dealer in December 2020 with 99k miles, then the current owner bought it from the same Toyota dealership in February 2021, and has only put 1k miles on it since. He said he decided he wants an electric car. Kinda suspect to me, but whatever, I'm going to look on Saturday morning.
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Mar 18, 2021 18:39
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Wibla posted:Upgrade what? It already has android auto per the ad. Because they only mention Android Auto I'd suspect it has the hacked together community version installed rather than the proper Mazda upgrade which also includes CarPlay. If that's the case I'd still do the real upgrade, it's more stable and the revised USB hub can actually provide enough power to use the phone on long trips (AA on the standard hub will slowly allow the battery to drain)
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Mar 18, 2021 19:56
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One of the reasons I traded in my 2011 3 was the clutch starting to feel weird and engage really high. I didn't want to spring for a new clutch so that and new car fever led me to trade up to my 6. That said today I got a letter in the mail from Mazda explaining I might be eligible for reimbursement of repair costs associated with replacing the clutch in the Mazda 3 I no longer own.  I see the car around town occasionally so maybe I'll hold on to it and pass it on to the new owner.
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Mar 19, 2021 00:58
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dissss posted:Because they only mention Android Auto I'd suspect it has the hacked together community version installed rather than the proper Mazda upgrade which also includes CarPlay. How do I know which it is?  Anyway, I picked it up today. Car was even in better shape than I'd hoped, it's pretty flawless other than the two small door dings shown in the ad. I have only two complaints: the throttle mapping is annoying from a stop and the turn signal doesn't just go back to off easily like most other cars. I'm pretty happy with it.
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Mar 21, 2021 01:44
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