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TheDarkOfKnight posted:So I have what may be a stupid question. I have two lights on my basement stairs which are switched by a pair of three-way switches. That is, either switch turns both lights on or off. As far as I can tell the wiring is substantially similar to this diagram: Only the left switch in the diagram at the top has "always on" power (the source black wire runs left.) If that's the one where you want an outlet you're golden. Hook the black wire to COM A and the other 2 wires to the "3W A" parts and it should all work. Edit: Looking again, no neutral in the left switch. Do you have a neutral there or just the /3 wire? It won't work without a neutral. The white wire in your picture is taped black and reused as a 3w leg.
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Mar 14, 2021 16:11
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This probably fits into dumb question territory. I installed a pool heater last year on a dedicated 220V 50A line. This was originally put in our house for a hot tub. Thinking of putting another hot tub in, is there an A/B switch / relay that can be used so only either the hot tub or pool heater are on? This would maintain the dedicated circuit for one or the other and prevent overloading, but I assume its such an odd case it wouldn't meet code. I know in an industrial setting this work work, but not sure for residential.
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Mar 14, 2021 16:19
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H110Hawk posted:Only the left switch in the diagram at the top has "always on" power (the source black wire runs left.) If that's the one where you want an outlet you're golden. Hook the black wire to COM A and the other 2 wires to the "3W A" parts and it should all work. It's just the three wires, red white and black (and a ground) in both boxes. I suppose I'm going to have to rethink my plans.
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Mar 14, 2021 16:36
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giundy posted:is there an A/B switch / relay that can be used so only either the hot tub or pool heater are on? You could use something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-100-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fused-Emergency-Power-Transfer-Switch-TC10323R/100171587 "after" the GFI breaker/enclosure. "Double throw non-fused disconnect" is what you'd search for. There are breaker enclosures with the sliding breaker cover that only allows one or the other breaker to turn on, but they're a little more rare (for the use you're looking for) and I didn't see one pop out when when looking. The double throw disconnects are pretty spendy but slightly cheaper (adding in installation time and maintanance) than setting up a couple relays in a weather-proof box I think (assuming you have the physical room below or beside the current GFI hot tub disconnect.) It might get expensive enough to make another home run to your panel worth it (assuming you have the amps in your main panel to run both a hot tub and pool heater). You'd also want to make sure the hot tub will be placed correctly relative to the current GFI hot tub disconnect (at least 5' away, in the line of sight).
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Mar 14, 2021 16:55
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giundy posted:This probably fits into dumb question territory. I installed a pool heater last year on a dedicated 220V 50A line. This was originally put in our house for a hot tub. Thinking of putting another hot tub in, is there an A/B switch / relay that can be used so only either the hot tub or pool heater are on? This would maintain the dedicated circuit for one or the other and prevent overloading, but I assume its such an odd case it wouldn't meet code. I know in an industrial setting this work work, but not sure for residential. Put a L6-50 connector and plug in?
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Mar 14, 2021 19:40
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devicenull posted:Put a L6-50 connector and plug in? Didn't even think about cord and plug. You'd have to get something 4-wire like a weatherproof NEMA L14-50 twist lock. If I read 680.8(A) right the cord for the heater in the (permanently installed?) pool can't be more than 3' though (which could still be doable, just more messing around). The new tubs I've put in needed a 240V 20a circuit, 240V 30a, neutral and ground, so I'm not sure one can get away with having just one GFCI protected disconnect like I was previously thinking (though one can probably get tubs that take a 240V 50a hookup). Might be best off with a weatherproof panel, supplied by the existing 50/60a run, which contains the breaker for the pool heater and the new 240V 20a/30a GFI breakers for the tub. Not sure how easy it would be to find a sliding lockout bar to prevent everything from being turned on at the same time, but it would give you control over everything. For everyone, does it matter if the 50a supply is GFCI protected instead of the 20a and 30a found in common hot tub disconnects? A 50a GFCI in the home panel will trip at the same fault current as 20a/30a GFCI breakers in the outdoor disconnect, right? Never hooked one up like that and may not be looking in the right places. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Mar 14, 2021 |
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Mar 14, 2021 21:40
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Blackbeer posted:For everyone, does it matter if the 50a supply is GFCI protected instead of the 20a and 30a found in common hot tub disconnects? A 50a GFCI in the home panel will trip at the same fault current as 20a/30a GFCI breakers in the outdoor disconnect, right? Never hooked one up like that and may not be looking in the right places. Make sure the 50A is actually GFCI and not GFPE. GFCI trips at 5mA and GFPE is 20mA(?). Most of the big "GFCI" breakers are actually GFPE, but have GFCI on the box because nobody in the US knows the difference. GFCI = Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. Designed to trip if there's a potentially lethal voltage leak. GFPE = Ground Fault Protection for Equipment. Designed to trip if moisture ingress causes a wiring fault insufficient to trip the breaker normally. 5mA @120VAC is roughly the "let-go" current for healthy humans weighing more than 80lbs. 20mA is above the "let-go" current, so if you're getting lit up in a tub, all your muscles will be uncontrollably spasming at that current. If you were just holding onto the ladder, you wouldn't be able to let go of the ladder voluntarily because your muscles are locked tight.
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Mar 15, 2021 17:13
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how the heck is it desirable to label them identically? My kitchen outlets are on gfci but now I wonder
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Mar 16, 2021 07:20
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Vim Fuego posted:how the heck is it desirable to label them identically? My kitchen outlets are on gfci but now I wonder Your kitchen GFCIs are almost certainly correct. I don't know if you can even get a 20mA+ trip for a 15A residential breaker for precisely that reason; you don't want to confuse them because someone could die. The higher 20mA+ trip is usually only in larger breakers that you need for bigger equipment. Often large equipment has electronics that don't play well with GFCI... usually motor speed controllers or other electrically "noisy" devices that leak current to ground.
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Mar 16, 2021 12:26
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Vim Fuego posted:how the heck is it desirable to label them identically? My kitchen outlets are on gfci but now I wonder It is in no way desirable, but Americans are stupid. Heaven forbid anyone learn any more acronyms.
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Mar 16, 2021 14:06
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Assuming I have dimmable lights, how hard is it to switch out the on/off light switch for a dimmable switch? Quick googling suggests it's pretty easy. Pop off the cover plate of the switch, take out the switch mechanism, pop in the dimmer mechanism and pop on the new faceplate. Seems pretty straightforward? Am I missing something? Is it possible that the dimmer won't fit in the, uh, slot (I don't know how to describe it, the switch part behind the coverplate)? Or are they all standard sizes?
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Mar 16, 2021 19:01
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shut up blegum posted:Assuming I have dimmable lights, how hard is it to switch out the on/off light switch for a dimmable switch? You're missing the part where you have to turn off the power to the switch, ensure there is no other power that you're touching in that box, know how to safely attach the new switch, and work with what is likely to be old work hardened copper. Yes, the operations themselves are very easy to understand. It's reality that sometimes gets in the way. Even seeming success (lights work) doesn't guarantee it was done properly and safely. Since you've never done this before I'd suggest getting someone who has to show you the first time.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:10
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shut up blegum posted:Assuming I have dimmable lights, how hard is it to switch out the on/off light switch for a dimmable switch? your junction box (the slot) will be a standard size your switch should fit in there. Depending on when the house was built / wired up you may have common and hot wires or you may have just hot. switching to a standard light is fine as long as you can understand which is common and which is hot. I'd highly recommend picking up a non-contact tester before embarking on this, if you have a hot wire you can kill you are self. step 1. turn on lights step 2. turn off breaker for lights & verify they are now off: THIS IS IMPORTANT WIRES TO A SWITCH CARRY POWER! step3: remove your cover plate step 4. make sure there is actually no power with the No Contact tester step 5 take your switch out TAKE A PICTURE WITH YOUR PHONE in case you gently caress up you will know how to put it back to normal step 6 remove the wire nuts from the old switch step 7. connect the switch up. hot to hot, ground, (Maybe:common to common) step8. put the wires back in teh box while swearing, & screw the switch back into the box step 9. turn off switch and breaker on step 10 turn on switch, does it worok great.. step 11: attach cover plate.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:14
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Motronic posted:You're missing the part where you have to turn off the power to the switch, ensure there is no other power that you're touching in that box, know how to safely attach the new switch, and work with what is likely to be old work hardened copper. tater_salad posted:your junction box (the slot) will be a standard size your switch should fit in there. Thanks for your answers. I was planning on shutting down the breaker and making sure the power is off fior sure. But thanks for pointing it out anyway. I also have a testboy that I bought when I replaced the ceramic cooker in our kitchen, this bad boy:  It has a stupid name but it works great.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:51
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shut up blegum posted:Thanks for your answers. I was planning on shutting down the breaker and making sure the power is off fior sure. But thanks for pointing it out anyway. When checking that something's been de-energized, always: 1) Test on known-live source (nearby socket, light, etc.) 2) Use on the circuit you're checking to confirm they're dead 3) Test again on known-live source 4) THEN you can futz around with stuff Never trust your tester. Especially don't trust those non-contact testers, but I even do this with my Fluke meter. It's best practice, and only takes an extra 30 seconds.
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Mar 16, 2021 20:09
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oh yeah I always tap my tester on a known hot circuit before going to the "dead" one.
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Mar 16, 2021 20:52
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Also heads up: some newer fixtures and bulbs- mostly cheap leds- may not be dimmable. So if you installed a cheap led fixture it might just go from on to off even using the dimmer switch. If it's an old fixture you're probably fine, and new fixtures and bulbs will tell you if they're dimmable on the packaging.
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Mar 17, 2021 04:32
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The thing is, we bought a new house through a building firm. I don't know the correct translation, but it's "turnkey". Basically the firm builds the exterior of the house and decides the layout of the rooms etc. and then you get to choose the flooring, kitchen, bathroom and so on (within a certain budget). Each room has a certain number of light points and fixtures, and you choose where to place them. If you want more, you have to pay extra. We want recessed spots in our living room and they said fine, we charge 87€/spot. I find that very expensive, so now we're asking them to just provide the wiring and drill the holes through the concrete and then we can fit the spots ourselves. They're charging 205€ (!) to install a dimmer so I said gently caress that and started looking into dimmers. Looks like you can get a LED-dimmer for around 50€, so even if I hire an electrician to fit 2-3 of those dimmers, I still save hundreds of euros. I just wasn't sure you could easily replace a normal light switch with a dimmable switch, but it looks like that's the case.
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Mar 17, 2021 08:13
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shut up blegum posted:The thing is, we bought a new house through a building firm. I don't know the correct translation, but it's "turnkey". Basically the firm builds the exterior of the house and decides the layout of the rooms etc. and then you get to choose the flooring, kitchen, bathroom and so on (within a certain budget). If you're comfortable doing this all on your own without having any warranty of any kind, ever, then go for it. If you can spare the few hundred euro to get it all wrapped up by a professional, that's probably the best long-term solution. I hate to say it, but if you're having the place built, don't nickel-and-dime the contractor to death. They will realize you're trying to be cheap and be cheap themselves, shorting you of quality.
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Mar 17, 2021 08:30
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:If you're comfortable doing this all on your own without having any warranty of any kind, ever, then go for it. If you can spare the few hundred euro to get it all wrapped up by a professional, that's probably the best long-term solution. I get what you're saying here, but I don't feel like we're nickel-and-diming them in this case. 205€ to swap out a regular switch for a dimmable switch seems crazy expensive to me. More experienced people itt, please let me know if I'm wrong on this. And we get that the house only gets built once, so we're making sure that it fullfils our needs, and we're not trying to cut corners. But this just feels like we're almost getting ripped off.
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Mar 17, 2021 08:57
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shut up blegum posted:I get what you're saying here, but I don't feel like we're nickel-and-diming them in this case. 205€ to swap out a regular switch for a dimmable switch seems crazy expensive to me. More experienced people itt, please let me know if I'm wrong on this. They're charging you fair market rate for a professional install. It's WELL above what you, as a homebuyer who values his time at $0/hr, would charge, even with parts included. In places I'm familiar with, if you start asking for custom stuff without the full install, then the builder knows you're just being cheap. If they're going to run the wire for a dimmer ANYWAY but not actually install the dimmer, then yeah, it's a rip-off. If the standard install only has 2-conductor in that switch location and they run the extra conductors for the dimmer and make sure that the dimmer actually works before move-in time, it's worth it for the logistics and everything. And you are absolutely trying to cut corners. Think about what this stuff would cost if you got it installed the default way, then had to hire someone to come in to do it later. If that price is significantly lower, then talk to the contractor about it, and let them know that you think they're being a bit steep based on the going market rate for services. Just asking them to do all the work except for the trimout SCREAMS "I am going to be cheap about this" and they will make that money up in some other place in your residence, certainly where an inspector won't see it, and doubly certainly where you won't see it until it's well past the warranty period. If it's a full house, what's a few hundred euro amongst the tens of thousands you are likely already spending? It's the bikeshed syndrome.
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Mar 17, 2021 09:16
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Just asking them to do all the work except for the trimout SCREAMS "I am going to be cheap about this" and they will make that money up in some other place in your residence, certainly where an inspector won't see it, and doubly certainly where you won't see it until it's well past the warranty period. I'm not asking them to install everything except the trimout. The entire setup, lights and on/off switch are already included in the contract. They just charge 205€ extra if they have to install a dimmer switch. So I won't ask them to install that. I'll let them install the standard stuff, and later I'll probably install the dimmer switch myself for a fraction of the cost. EDIT: and I know it's just a couple hundred euro extra, but that stuff adds up quickly.
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Mar 17, 2021 09:52
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If they’re installing low profile LED cans instead of screw sockets are they installing dimmable ones if you don’t request dimmers? And if they are installing screw sockets what’s the price difference between dimmable and non-dimmable LED bulbs, because that’s also likely part of that upcharge. Does your local code require a neutral for every switch to future proof for LED dimmers and smart switches or can installers put in a traditional two conductor switch loop? Do you have any three way switches that now need to be integrated into the dimming setup? (either with a three-way compatible dimmer or with smart switches.) Are you pricing out LED compatible high frequency PWM dimmers or non-LED compatible SCR dimmers for your point of comparison? There’s a ton of possible reasons for a small upcharge like that, it’s rare that simply putting in a dimmer switch is the only change that needs to be made even in new construction. E: just as an example I once worked on a job where SCRs designed for halogens were specced alongside non-dim LED cans and the end result was every single LED turned into a strobe light. I also worked on a job where someone DIYed LED lights and the leakage current from their old SCRs was high enough that the LEDs never turned off. They didn’t want to replace all their dimming so the fix was adding a 40w incandescent bulb to each circuit so the dimmer was loaded correctly, which of course works great until the lamp blows and suddenly they’re burning out their dimmers and their LEDs again. corgski fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 10:16
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shut up blegum posted:I think you're misunderstanding the issue here. Because they're using better cans that are dimmable plus a quality compatible dimmer. It's not just the light switch itself. Really: stop being cheap. You're not going to save any money by doing this.
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Mar 17, 2021 16:02
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It’s definitely bikeshedding. Let’s say you have ten rooms in your house and you, for some reason want every single room to have dimmers including the bathroom and laundry. Just back of the napkin here: That’s 200€-ish times ten, so for two grand you just guaranteed it’s been done properly with fixtures that are guaranteed to be compatible and if anything breaks you can complain to the builder about it, versus maybe you get good quality LED dimmers for 40€ a pop because you took it to heart that the 7€ “universal” rotary dimmers aren’t universal at all but then all your cans are non-dim because you didn’t order dimmers when it was built (and non-dim cans are both cheaper and more energy efficient so of course that’s the default) so now you have to replace all those cans at a cost of 20€ each so your house doesn’t look like a disco every time you turn the dimmer down and at the end you’ve spent the same amount of money doing it and you can’t complain to the builder when a bad splice you made by accident decides to become a pyrotechnic show in your attic.
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Mar 17, 2021 23:30
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We are buying a 1990 house with a 100A panel. Our home insurance has offered is a discount for a whole house rewire, buy I'm trying to decide if it's necessary. I know there a recommendations to do it every x years, but the number varies. It's new enough so no aluminum of knob and tube wiring, and appears to be Romex. Is it with it from a safety standpoint to rewire, or would we be fine leaving it if everything is working? Additionally, only other thing I saw was that it still had a 100A panel; I usually do 200A, but obviously can't do a load analysis without owning the house yet. However, we are running some new lines for lights and outlets so I'm trying to rope in a panel upgrade at the same time rather than waiting. Is this worth it? I see a potential issue with the service line,I think it's only 2/0 copper, but if I was going to do it now would be the most convenient. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 03:48
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PageMaster posted:We are buying a 1990 house with a 100A panel. Our home insurance has offered is a discount for a whole house rewire, buy I'm trying to decide if it's necessary. I know there a recommendations to do it every x years, but the number varies. It's new enough so no aluminum of knob and tube wiring, and appears to be Romex. Is it with it from a safety standpoint to rewire, or would we be fine leaving it if everything is working? #2 copper, not 2/0, for a 100A probably? For a 90's house a full rewire is 100% not warranted, and I would say reduces safety since it would replace nicely run/supported romex with fished, Romex/NM doesn't go bad after 30 years. A panel upgrade might be, I'd be willing to bet your overall electric load has gone down since the house was built, with LED lights and all. Do you have a pressing reason to go up to 200A? I'm assuming it's gas heat, with a 100A panel. Are you adding any significant loads that require a larger panel? Are questions to ask yourself before spending a bunch of money on something that won't get you anything, there are houses out there rocking 100yo knob and tube still, you don't have to just replace cabling for no reason every x number of years (aluminum, as you said, is a big exception to that rule) Here are some reasons to go for a panel/service upgrade: -Adding a large electric load, such as a hot tub, Electric Vehicle charging, instant HW heater, AC unit etc (maybe not even then, only if redone load calculations justify it). -You want AFCI protection, although that's probably doable without changing a panel from 1990. -Some unsafe or unsatisfactory condition exists with the existing service. That being said, if you're intent on upgrading your service for whatever reasons, the relatively small incremental cost of a 200A makes it worth it every time IMO.
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Mar 18, 2021 04:21
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Elviscat posted:#2 copper, not 2/0, for a 100A probably? Possibly correct on the#2 copper? To be honest I haven't been able to look in person thanks to COVID so I just copied that from the inspection report, and electrical is a huge weak point for me . Good to know on the rewire necessity. We would spend 20-30k on it to save 500 a year on home insurance so my primary concern was realistic safety. Panel upgrade is due to what we needed previously, electric stove, dryer, multiple 4k TV's, large gaming pc's, central AC, and plan for electric car charging. Again we could do it later when we actually get the car, but we're having work done now and it of the house.
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Mar 18, 2021 04:32
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PageMaster posted:Possibly correct on the#2 copper? To be honest I haven't been able to look in person thanks to COVID so I just copied that from the inspection report, and electrical is a huge weak point for me . Good to know on the rewire necessity. We would spend 20-30k on it to save 500 a year on home insurance so my primary concern was realistic safety. Remember that pretty much any EV can be set to charge in the middle of the night when you aren't using anything else except maybe AC, so you can pretty much forget about it adding to your load except maybe in combination with your AC (which probably is still under 100A). Since you didn't see it yourself in person, are you sure the AC isn't off a separate dedicated breaker by your meter instead of a part of the 100A panel? If so you are home free on 100A in my mind.
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Mar 18, 2021 04:41
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PageMaster posted:Possibly correct on the#2 copper? To be honest I haven't been able to look in person thanks to COVID so I just copied that from the inspection report, and electrical is a huge weak point for me . Good to know on the rewire necessity. We would spend 20-30k on it to save 500 a year on home insurance so my primary concern was realistic safety. So, I'm going to assume the stove and dryer are already electric, so I'll ignore them. The 4K TVs and gaming PCs are minimal (3600W at the top end of my calculation, unless you're mining bitcoin or something) E: and would be offset from the as-built service by replacing all your light bulbs with LEDs. Central AC and EV charging could be a concern, Google "free NEC" and follow the links to the NFPA website, then with a couple hours, and the use of section 220 (service load calculations) and a spreadsheet, you can figure out what size service you'll need. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 05:04
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ROJO posted:Remember that pretty much any EV can be set to charge in the middle of the night when you aren't using anything else except maybe AC, so you can pretty much forget about it adding to your load except maybe in combination with your AC (which probably is still under 100A). Since you didn't see it yourself in person, are you sure the AC isn't off a separate dedicated breaker by your meter instead of a part of the 100A panel? If so you are home free on 100A in my mind. Am not certain the AC doesn't have it's own dedicated breaker, so I'll be sure to ask the inspector. This and the fact that electrical consumption may actually be smaller with more energy efficient devices and appliances was not something I thought about, so that might be worth holding off on until I check it properly; I automatically just had the idea that we were going to be clearly undersized after our last couple of houses. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 05:17
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Thanks for all the input everyone. You were right, we stepped back and looked at what we're already spending and it's just a bit more. But in return we know it's done right and if it does malfunction, the construction company is on the hook for the repairs.
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Mar 18, 2021 09:53
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PageMaster posted:Am not certain the AC doesn't have it's own dedicated breaker, so I'll be sure to ask the inspector. This and the fact that electrical consumption may actually be smaller with more energy efficient devices and appliances was not something I thought about, so that might be worth holding off on until I check it properly; I automatically just had the idea that we were going to be clearly undersized after our last couple of houses. Did your homeowners insurance say *why* they'd give you a $500 discount for replacing it? How much are you paying for insurance? My entire homeowners + umbrella insurance is only $1k a year, so that would be like a 50% discount for me. For your potential car charger, you may be able to get away with putting a smaller panel before your current one, so you'd have potentially 100a to your existing panel, and 100a to the car charger. That would significantly reduce the scope of a service upgrade, as you wouldn't have to touch any of the existing stuff.
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Mar 19, 2021 01:53
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devicenull posted:Did your homeowners insurance say *why* they'd give you a $500 discount for replacing it? How much are you paying for insurance? My entire homeowners + umbrella insurance is only $1k a year, so that would be like a 50% discount for me. They just offer reductions if utilities(plumbing, electrical, and hvac) are under 30 years old). Our homeowners is 3k a year because we're in California which seems like almost entirely a wildfire hazard zone now, but it sounds like there are options of we end up needing more power laterand I we can just hold off on a panel upgrade for now
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Mar 21, 2021 02:58
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Uncovering more PO work as I tear things out of a room I'm redoing...... I'm not even surprised anymore. I just kinda expect it in any room in the addition, where the PO who fancied himself an amateur electrician must have tried to save money by doing the work.
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Mar 21, 2021 03:16
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The box had NM clamps built in
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Mar 21, 2021 03:22
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Elviscat posted:The box had NM clamps built in That never stopped him for not understanding that ground still has to be bonded in the switch box, not just from the sconces and to the switch (and nowhere else), bonding neutral and ground in the outbuilding he obviously wired up himself, leaving multiple flying boxes (at least not flying splices) in the attic, etc. Also any work done is just a sloppy looking as you see there. It always looks like the insulation as been chewed off, cables are not dressed, everything is just a mess.
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Mar 21, 2021 03:29
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I appreciate the "one wire is twisted and one wire is arrow straight" school of wire nutting that this guy went to. I don't think I could do that if I tried. What is a "flying box"?
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Mar 21, 2021 18:11
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TacoHavoc posted:I appreciate the "one wire is twisted and one wire is arrow straight" school of wire nutting that this guy went to. I don't think I could do that if I tried. That's how you know it's a good quality splice! That and the lovely cap style wirenuts you can't possibly twist hard enough to get a good splice with on #12 solid. A flying box is a box that is untethered to the ground, or any other structural member, freely floating in an attic/wall/ceiling, free from care, worry, or proper support of any kind.
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Mar 21, 2021 19:12
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movax posted:I installed an Emporia Vue Gen 2 over the weekend and hooo boy, it really does shed a lot of light on what's going on, consumption-wise. I forget if someone mentioned it in this thread or the Wiring thread, but it's pretty painless to install (if you are OK working right up against live mains) and it's fast -- you can no poo poo see bathroom fans, lights, and stuff turn on in a graph. Flip light switch, 1-2 seconds later, you see power consumption on a circuit go up by 50-100 W. I see some evidence of HA plug-ins for it, so once I get that setup, I should be able to do some pretty cool poo poo. I think it turned out to be this thread that I heard about this from, so reporting back... pretty good piece of kit! Strongly recommend if you're curious about where your electrons are going. e: It helped confirm that the Garage GFCI I use to run my workbench / charge our Bolt on.... is also somehow the same circuit the remodeled master bath runs on -- outlets, light switches, vent fan, the works. Pretty loving obvious now why the breaker will occasionally trip when my girlfriend turns on her hair dryer, and the vent fan slows down / stops, and the loving car is charging. It's 3 loving floors up and was remodeled! I have this feeling it was done to wire everything off a GFCI in that bathroom (the outlets in that room are all designer antique bronze colored Decora, so I guess they didn't make GFCI in that color?? gently caress man, just put a random one on the closet one!) and they picked the one in the garage. I'm hoping I can track down with Romex it is heading up there so I can put it on its own goddamned breaker. Would moving it to a GFCI equipped breaker be a code-compliant way of solving it? movax fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Mar 22, 2021 |
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Mar 22, 2021 20:23
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