|
Steakandchips posted:Heh, the Harley is so much more thirsty in comparison with the Honda. I think I paid more for petrol for the Harley in the first 2 or 3 weeks I had it than I did for the Honda in an entire year. Guess 15 times the displacement has an impact on fuel economy! Have you considered? Dirt bike.
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2021 01:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 08:26 |
|
|
Yeah the right counterpoint to a big muscular Harley is either a small nippy sportbike or a raving mad sumo/enduro.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2021 01:30
|
|
|
I have a weird situation, I just did the brake pads on my vulcan 900 before I send it on to the next rider (my brother, so I actually don't want the next guy to die), and it seems to be pulling to the left under braking. My first thought was the front disc is on the left side so when I brake that might be why, but the more I think about it I don't think that's how it works. Could this be a symptom of a mis-aligned front tire?
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2021 01:30
|
|
|
builds character posted:Have you considered? Dirt bike. Slavvy posted:Yeah the right counterpoint to a big muscular Harley is either a small nippy sportbike or a raving mad sumo/enduro. 1. There is no green-laning in Scotland. 2. I don't really like the idea of dirt biking. Deffo gonna get a sport bike for the track near me... Probably a Ninja 300 or 400.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2021 09:27
|
|
|
Paint question - I previously tried to touch up scrapes on my gas tank with some paint from Color Rite and the color they sent me was WAY off. It was so bad I just threw tank sliders on it, but I could only find carbon fiber look ones and I hate them. I tried ordering the official Triumph touch up pen but it's discontinued. I don't if my issues are related to this, but when picking parts for a 2007 Daytona 675 you always have to specify if your vin is above or below a certain number, so maybe they changed their graphite grey at some point. I'm debating trying paint from a different site but I'm worried I'll have the same problem. This site looks just crazy and 90s enough that it makes me think it's run by a greybeard who make actually be able to match the color. Thoughts? Better options? I'm trying to get it decent from 5 ft, not perfect. Although I've been debating just having a pro repaint all the fairings + tank, but I haven't looked into how much that would cost. I'd give the ebay fairings a shot but they don't fix the gas tank issues. (I had ordered a paint pen for this, obviously not the right answer once I started doing it but I would have done my best at sanding + polishing)  
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 01:08
|
|
|
I actually just had a pair of R&G tank sliders come in the mail today to prevent exactly this. I’m planning to do more low speed practice this year and I’m super paranoid about dinging my tank. Plastics I can easily replace or live with, but a metal tank that gets dinged and/or rusty just feels like bad news, and the tank on my N650 sticks out a fair bit IMO. They do look kind of lovely though, as the only thing on my bike that is carbon fiber — a material I don’t love the look of 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Mar 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 02:43
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:Thoughts? Better options? I'm trying to get it decent from 5 ft, not perfect. Although I've been debating just having a pro repaint all the fairings + tank, but I haven't looked into how much that would cost. I'd give the ebay fairings a shot but they don't fix the gas tank issues. Lean into it and paint in a triangle/stripe with a different colour, following the lines of the tank. I'd say either black or a gold similar to the triumph text. Put down some masking tape to define the edges, scrub the non-scuffed paint inside the lines so the new paint sticks, clearcoat over the top when you're finished. I reckon it'll come out looking pro as hell.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 08:33
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:Thoughts? Better options? Vinyl wrap + Triumph sticker.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 08:44
|
|
|
Steakandchips posted:Heh, the Harley is so much more thirsty in comparison with the Honda. I think I paid more for petrol for the Harley in the first 2 or 3 weeks I had it than I did for the Honda in an entire year. Guess 15 times the displacement has an impact on fuel economy! Triumph!  I know most of them are made in Thailand but still.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 08:45
|
|
|
Vintage or custom car paint suppliers should be able to colour-match it by directly scanning the colour (they may need to sand a bit of the clear coat off to do this), but that's not cheap.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 08:48
|
|
|
Steakandchips posted:
Can't say much about the others, but i found SV's more exciting to ride than the Ducati Monster 797. The Ducati is quite comfortable and really a good bike, but although it's faster than my old SV, it feels slower. The Duc engine isn't as rev happy - just linearly releasing the power over the whole range. Both bikes can be lugged, but the SV's have a bit more of a peak in power at high revs. Both bikes are perfectly happy riding quietly through towns at 2500-4000rpm, and rolling stops can be done from about 1500rpm withouth bucking if you're gentle. The newest SV is quite tiny and feels very zippy, i suspect the Ducati would probably be more comfortable and relaxing on longer trips. Its tiny wind deflector on the headlamp works suprisingly well. The Duc will corner as on rails with a ton of confidence but iirc it just felt less engaging. So yeah. Both good bikes. Probably just a matter of taste and money which one is best suited for you. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Mar 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 11:01
|
|
|
Also how tall you are, from riding my friends street triple a few years ago I found it quite tall compared to other nakeds I've been on. My vote would be sv650 for price + parts + fun.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 11:09
|
|
|
I'm 6' tall. 30 or 31inch inseam. I definitely need to ride more bikes to see what I like. So, to that end: I have test rides approved, post lockdown, for: Ducati Monster 900. https://www.ecossemotorcycles.co.uk/used_singlebike.php?Location=Dundee&Make=DUCATI&Model=MONSTER%20900&StockNo=54566&Id=54566 Kawasaki Ninja 400. https://www.kdykawasaki.com/inventory-detail.php?code=12198 I've submitted requests to test ride: Ducati Monster 696. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/202103150178430 Triumph Street Triple 675. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/bike-details/202103190347331 Triumph Speed Triple R 1050 . https://www.jim-allan.com/100347-triumph-speed-triple-r.html Aprilia Shiver 900. http://www.alanduffus.com/bikes/used/view/8977327/aprilia-900-shiver Suzuki SV650. http://www.alanduffus.com/bikes/used/view/9172481/suzuki--sv650-abs--l7 Ultimately, I'll choose what I feel most comfortable on, similar to how I really wanted a Scout as I love it's looks, but it was so drat uncomfortable, that I ended up test riding a Fat Bob afterwards and fell in love with its comforts (and its looks).
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 13:43
|
|
|
Those are all good options, but if you're looking for a counterpoint to the Harley, I think the street triple is the one to get. The engine is really playful and loves to rev. It's an easy bike to ride and great for running quick errands and heading out to the local twisties for the day. You can do multi day touring on one, but your knees might complain after a while, but then you've got the Harley for that anyway. I've got a 32" inseam and found the ergonomics of the one I rented quite good except for the little bit cramped knees after some long days. At 30-31" it'll probably fit you better.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 14:19
|
|
|
Bought a venhill kit to redo my throttle cables as the inner wire is too short for the FCR carb (drop in replacement?) There’s length adjusters, but they don’t seem to have any way of affixing to the outer sheath. Is this normal? Does the cable just stay in place with tension of the inner wire?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 19:12
|
|
|
Horse Clocks posted:Bought a venhill kit to redo my throttle cables as the inner wire is too short for the FCR carb (drop in replacement?) Post a pic, this could be half a dozen different situations.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 20:18
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Post a pic, this could be half a dozen different situations. https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-an...-u01-4-151.html This is the kit. All the ferrules fit (loosely) on the outer sheath. I imagine the ferrules can be crimped, but the screw ones are quite a bit thicker and if you did crimp them, they wouldn’t rotate to screw in. The only thing that seems to make sense, is you just have the screw bit flopping around and then the spring tension on the throttle body holds everything in place. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Mar 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 20:38
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:Lean into it and paint in a triangle/stripe with a different colour, following the lines of the tank. I'd say either black or a gold similar to the triumph text. That would probably work for someone with more painting ability, but that person is not me. Although I have spare fairings I've been meaning to use for paint practice, but that's yet one more project to be done. goddamnedtwisto posted:Vintage or custom car paint suppliers should be able to colour-match it by directly scanning the colour (they may need to sand a bit of the clear coat off to do this), but that's not cheap. That's not a bad idea, one of the first sites I found online is fairly reasonable but you have to ship them a 2" square part that is the color you want, which makes things interesting. Maybe just cut off a piece of my spare fairings. Ola posted:Vinyl wrap + Triumph sticker. Also a possibility, I've been debating trying to wrap the bikes for a while but it seems like it's a bit tricky. I have some wrap for my truck that I'm about to use to hide all the chrome, if it goes better than I thought I may give the bike a shot. In a perfect world I'd be great at wrapping and just changing colors at will, but I don't have the time to get good at it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 22:12
|
|
|
Horse Clocks posted:https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-an...-u01-4-151.html I honestly still have no idea wtf you're talking about, in the picture there are ferrules on the cable and they are crimped on? When I said post a pic I mean post a pic of the problem. I can tell you that 'universal' is short for 'no bike in the universe fits this' and in japanese translates to 'waste of money'.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 22:45
|
|
|
Yeah I don't think any of those ferrules are designed to be crimped, you just install the cables through them. If the lengths of everything are correct, there shouldn't be enough play in the cable to allow the outer cable to fall out of the ferrule and catch on it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2021 02:52
|
|
|
those are "solder on" ferrules and no loving way in hell would I install that trash on my bike. Go get the right throttle cable for a drz400k. Not the E, S, or SM. (some E models had the fcr39 though iirc after 04 or 06, bsr36 like all the rest)
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2021 03:20
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Yeah I don't think any of those ferrules are designed to be crimped, you just install the cables through them. If the lengths of everything are correct, there shouldn't be enough play in the cable to allow the outer cable to fall out of the ferrule and catch on it. This seems to be the case. Even without the inner wire, the outer casing sat between the carb and throttle fine without any movement. And the rubber sleeves held things in place when stuff was loose. That said. Still didn't go too well. The nipples on the end of the wire seem to be interfering with something inside the throttle body. And then a nipple fell off, and I couldn't get it back on the wire, so i cut the wire and then it was too short. and jfc gently caress that poo poo. FCR's coming off, BSR's going back on. All going in a box, and I'll deal with it when I get my bike back in 6 months time. cursedshitbox posted:those are "solder on" ferrules and no loving way in hell would I install that trash on my bike. Alas, that sort of stuff is as rare as hens teeth here, and horribly price-inflated.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2021 17:27
|
|
|
Horse Clocks posted:Alas, that sort of stuff is as rare as hens teeth here, and horribly price-inflated. Critical parts are worth paying for. You'll long have forgotten about the sweetness of cheap replacement parts when one of those two solder joints break resulting in 1. all the throttle. 2. no throttle. Secondly: lol suzuki parts pricing and availability. Upside is you can get like 50k-mi out of a good set of cables if you take care of them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2021 19:46
|
|
|
Steakandchips posted:I'm 6' tall. 30 or 31inch inseam. Update: I've tentative test rides booked with the English Electric Motor Company (exact date to be confirmed) for the following bikes, in May, once demo bikes are in: Energica Eva EsseEsse 9+ Energica Eva Ribelle Looking forward to trying out my first electric bikes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2021 14:32
|
|
|
Enjoy! Just keep an eye on the speedometer. My first electric ride ended with me spending 80% of the time well above the speed limit, because it takes a lot of getting used to the lack of drama.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2021 14:38
|
|
|
Looking to add a 12V outlet to my KLR 650, and possible some other accessories down the track, seeking some advice. In the short term, I'd like to put a 12V socket on the handlebars for charging phone and running an air compressor if needed. I was thinking this marine grade 12V socket with some 14ga wire and an inline fuse under the seat. Am I correct that if I don't have anything plugged into the 12V socket, I don't need to worry about running a relay off of a switched wire or whatever to not drain my battery? Eventually I'd like to add some Oxford heated grips, and a second charging port inside the topcase (USB for camera or any other ancillary electronics, doesn't need to be on at the same time as handlebar ones). That'll probably require a bit more research and parts, but just looking to get the basics for now. If anyone has any tips on a similar setup, I'd be interested to hear.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2021 07:56
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:Am I correct that if I don't have anything plugged into the 12V socket, I don't need to worry about running a relay off of a switched wire or whatever to not drain my battery? A 12v plug is an open circuit and won't drain your battery by itself, just don't forget anything plugged into it when you walk away from the bike. Also I guess if it's not switched then some random might decide to plug something into it while you're not there? I don't really think that's likely though, the only times I've had someone mess with my bike was thieves a few years ago, and last week when some kids left a pile of popcorn on the saddle with two pieces thoughtfully inserted into the exhaust pipes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2021 08:46
|
|
|
Has anyone ever broken a hand using straight handguards where the bent kind would have let them get clear?
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2021 18:00
|
|
|
Greg12 posted:Has anyone ever broken a hand using straight handguards where the bent kind would have let them get clear? I don't know what you mean by bent vs. straight, but I've hit my hand pretty hard on wraparound metal guards like this where flag hand guards like this wouldn't have let that happen (or wouldn't have hurt as much for as long if they did). Not quite broken but it hurt a lot and was badly bruised for a long time. As a result I stuck with flag guards for a while and then did an enduro with a ton of tight trees with bars that weren't cut down and just destroyed my hands. By the end I was verrrrrry slowly easing my way through any time it got tight. I would stick with flag guards if you're not riding tight woods but if you are, I'd very much prefer full wraparounds.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2021 18:18
|
|
|
The Probends are "the bent kind." There are other full-wrap-arounds that go straight across, like an Acerbis Rally Pro. The sales pitch is that the way the bar dips down and back up makes it less likely that a hand will get caught and mangled in there.
Greg12 fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Mar 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2021 19:24
|
|
|
Greg12 posted:The Probends are "the bent kind." There are other full-wrap-arounds that go straight across, like an Acerbis Rally Pro. The sales pitch is that the way the bar dips down and back up makes it less likely that a hand will get caught and mangled in there. I'm skeptical. I think if that's what you're worried about then I'd just run the full plastic ones or flags. Either way, I'd still run full wrap in the woods and flags everywhere else.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2021 20:14
|
|
|
Is there anything to consider when bleeding ABS brakes versus direct? Or is it the same thing just maybe takes longer because more tube?
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 04:54
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Is there anything to consider when bleeding ABS brakes versus direct? Or is it the same thing just maybe takes longer because more tube? Sometimes (most of the time) it is totally normal and just takes a little bit longer like you said to get fresh fluid through. Sometimes it's a right bastard and you have to resort to cracking the banjos on the abs module. Sometimes Ducati tell you to take the caliper off and hold it above the rear wheel and bleed exactly 250cc of fluid through and then ride the bike activating abs no less than ten times, repeat until the brake works.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 05:26
|
|
|
OK thanks. This in context of replacing the line that connects my brake pedal to the ABS module because Kawasaki decided to make it out of inflexible rigid bent pipe and if I want to put on any rearsets that set it back by more than like, a centimetre, [I am imagining] it will be an absolute bitch. Unless wrestling with pre-bent metal pipe is somehow “not a big deal” which would be a pleasant surprise. So anyway I guess I would need to bleed the rear brake. It was super easy on the 250 but that was direct brake->caliper.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 13:06
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Sometimes Ducati tell you to take the caliper off and hold it above the rear wheel and bleed exactly 250cc of fluid through and then ride the bike activating abs no less than ten times, repeat until the brake works. * note: rear brake will only work for approx. 200 miles, long enough for heat from the exhaust to cook the fluid in the reservoir Between the reservoir/MC/caliper/ABS junction box positioning on the Multistrada, and the fact that the reservoir sits about 4 inches from the exhaust, the rear brake might as well not even be there. It's damned near impossible to bleed, and even when you've finally managed it, the fluid is near black after riding through a single tank's worth of gas.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 17:21
|
|
|
Anything specific I should know about breaking in a bike? Dynas in my garage now with new cylinders and pistons and what else, just variate the revs, keep it under 3k rpm?
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 18:42
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:OK thanks. This in context of replacing the line that connects my brake pedal to the ABS module because Kawasaki decided to make it out of inflexible rigid bent pipe and if I want to put on any rearsets that set it back by more than like, a centimetre, [I am imagining] it will be an absolute bitch. You'll be fine, you'll need to replace the line but it's not a big deal and will probably bleed through no problems. Jazzzzz posted:* note: rear brake will only work for approx. 200 miles, long enough for heat from the exhaust to cook the fluid in the reservoir The multi is what I was thinking of but they have multiple models with that same reservoir position. It is learning impaired. Patrocclesiastes posted:Anything specific I should know about breaking in a bike? Dynas in my garage now with new cylinders and pistons and what else, just variate the revs, keep it under 3k rpm? I'd let it get up to 4500, 3k is kinda lugging even on a Harley and you're not really meant to do that. My rule of thumb is no more than 2/3rds throttle or 2/3rds of the available revs, no idling or steady speeds. With harleys the accepted wisdom seems to be running straight 30w until it's run-in, but I've also run freshly rebuilt sportsters on 20w50 straight away without any issues so it's probably not that important.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 19:27
|
|
|
Thanks Slavvy, I'll keep that in mind! I was thinking 3k because now with the pistons and cylinders being 103CID it went really nicely while keeping revs below 3k. Any particular mileage I should change the oil? Didn't even think of not letting it idle, havent heard of that one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 19:41
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:You'll be fine, you'll need to replace the line but it's not a big deal and will probably bleed through no problems. Thanks. I guess I’ll post my progress when I get around to doing this. Either as a trip report or a cautionary tale. Hopefully not both.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 20:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 08:26 |
|
|
Patrocclesiastes posted:Thanks Slavvy, I'll keep that in mind! Yeah extended idling is really really bad because there's no oil pressure and the heat buildup is uneven. Normally you change the oil after 500km or so.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 21:57
|
|