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bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

The average age of a WRX buyer even then wasn't 20. Sure the WRX wasnt on sale in the USA until 2001 but that doesnt mean older X'ers and younger Boomers werent aware of it and didnt want one. They were aware and they bought them.

By 20 year olds I meant 20s, not actually 20.

Median age in the first two years was 39. So half the owners were Gen-Xers or younger.

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CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

bull3964 posted:

By 20 year olds I meant 20s, not actually 20.

Median age in the first two years was 39. So half the owners were Gen-Xers or younger.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892978
http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2005/11/30/150765.html

The median age of WRX owners in the USA about 2005 was actually 38 at that time. Thats older end of the Gen-X and def has a lot of Boomers in it.

edit : If you are saying that the 2001 WRX had a median age of 39 as the owners then..... Boomers start at 56 these days so the entire older side of the curve is pure boomer. Gen-X in 2001 was 21 youngest and 41-42 youngest today

CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Mar 19, 2021

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
2005 - 38 is 1967. Boomers end at '64ish. Boomer brains, however, are timeless.

I'd be willing to bet a bunch of 40something divorced dads traded their outback wagons their wives insisted on for WRX wagons in 2005.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


Yeah, boomers end around '64-'65.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

2005 - 38 is 1967. Boomers end at '64ish. Boomer brains, however, are timeless.

I'd be willing to bet a bunch of 40something divorced dads traded their outback wagons their wives insisted on for WRX wagons in 2005.

The median example goes back to 2001 from what I remember, where 38-39 is boomer territory. So WRX nostalga isnt really just 20 year olds fondly remembering blazing in dad's car, it's the now those retired dads (and mums, the WRX is actually a surprisingly favorable car to older women!) with the kids left getting themselves a VA. IIRC Subaru pretty much were outright targeting the older buyer for the VA STI

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

crosspost from the stupid question thread:

OMGVBFLOL posted:

95 subaru impreza L, wagon, 1.8L AWD, no ABS

I've got a clicking noise coming from my front right CV when I turn the wheel, and yup sure enough the outer CV is torn badly enough that it's completely come off on the wheel side. everything around it is covered in a fine layer of grease.

have heard from a subaru specialist mechanic on youtube that he has had bad experiences with remanufactured axleshafts for a lot of subarus, says they have lovely tolerances and have caused noise and vibration in cars he's used them on in the past, and that he always prefers replacing the boot on the factory axle, or replacing with a junkyard axle if that isn't an option.

questions:
1) does the noise automatically mean it's not salvagable? or can i regrease it, see if that stops the sound temporarily, and if so, replace the boot, and continue on my merry way?
2) Does what i heard square with what yall have experienced with reman axleshafts? subaru-specific insight preferable but any personal experience with any make or drivetrain is appreciated.

the youtuber i'm referring to was the one posted upthread, the one posted in response to someone asking about boot replacement.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


05 Outback EZ30

Which side is Bank 2 on JDM EZ30?
Left or right, as seen from in the car moving forwards?

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

simplefish posted:

05 Outback EZ30

Which side is Bank 2 on JDM EZ30?
Left or right, as seen from in the car moving forwards?

Passenger side on a AUDM. Cylinder No 1 is the one furthest to the front on the drivers side.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

Passenger side on a AUDM. Cylinder No 1 is the one furthest to the front on the drivers side.

Thanks

I got the boot done, really grateful for all your (and others') help on that

O2 sensor next!

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

Gonna hit up Bardmans Artisanal? Heard they got good ones

Red_Fred
Oct 21, 2010


Fallen Rib
Any opinions on the 2017 Levorg reliability? Does the CVT ruin it?

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Red_Fred posted:

Any opinions on the 2017 Levorg reliability? Does the CVT ruin it?

The entire thread is for some odd reason pointing at the direction of the guy that endlessly shits on about



100% reliable. CVT does neter tho the S# drive mode is fun so it's not.... terrible. Mine's a GT-B so the 2 liter with Bilsteins package as well as a bunch of cosmetics and the Enkei STI wheels. I'm the biggest CVT hater but the rest of the car is excellent and it is one of the best cars to cruise long distance in

Red_Fred
Oct 21, 2010


Fallen Rib

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

The entire thread is for some odd reason pointing at the direction of the guy that endlessly shits on about



100% reliable. CVT does neter tho the S# drive mode is fun so it's not.... terrible. Mine's a GT-B so the 2 liter with Bilsteins package as well as a bunch of cosmetics and the Enkei STI wheels. I'm the biggest CVT hater but the rest of the car is excellent and it is one of the best cars to cruise long distance in

How long you had it?

I was eyeing up a slightly older b8.5 S4 but the Levorg has way more tech and looks pretty decent too for less $$$. Is the FA20 fairly solid too? Sounds like it is now.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I was looking at a chip for my SVX once I get everything else sorted out but I noticed that it mentions that it's based off of the JDM ROM, which didn't have an atmospheric pressure sensor. Am I right in thinking that not having an atmospheric pressure sensor is fine when your elevation is at most a few thousand feet above sea level, it would be pretty poo poo for me living at 8-9000 feet above sea level? I'm not sure how much the ECU relies on the MAF vs atmospheric pressure sensor to say "Oh hey we have way less oxygen let's lean it out a bit."

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Do you mean MAP sensor? Newer subarus do use an atmospheric pressure sensor but I wasn't aware of them being a thing before like, 2007, and they have more to do with the air pump operation than the efi as far as I know (as mass air flow and manifold pressure are already being measured).

A MAP sensor, though, is "Manifold Abosolute Pressure" and while Subaru mostly uses them on turbo cars, there were some map sensor based n/a engines in the late 90s/early 2000s. What MAP based means is that instead of a MAF sensor, that directly measures airflow to determine how much fuel to inject, manifold pressure is measured (you also need to measure temperature) and airflow is derived from that. Also known as speed density. I suppose it's possible to add a map sensor and the wiring and do it that way.

In the make cars go fast world we'd do speed density tunes because maf scaling and housing size run into issues with big loving turbos.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I just double-checked and the only thing I'm finding it called is atmospheric pressure sensor, it's apparently built into the ECU. Not sure what it does for the engine, but the manual I have here says that it also interacts with the TCU to reduce shock of shifts at "high ground" which I'm guessing is early '90s poor translation of high elevation.

Odd thing is it definitely does have a MAF as well, so I'm not sure what it does for the engine itself, I'm having a hard time finding that detail. Maybe if I read more thoroughly but it references the thing in like twenty places in this specifications guide.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Red_Fred posted:

How long you had it?

I was eyeing up a slightly older b8.5 S4 but the Levorg has way more tech and looks pretty decent too for less $$$. Is the FA20 fairly solid too? Sounds like it is now.

Umm...... coming up on 4 years?

AFAIK the FA20 in stock form is solid - It only gets problems if you screw the boost up. TBH the CVT will prevent a hot tune damaging the engine as it'll fail first - it has a hard limit of 400NM full stop. The stock engine has 350NM so an exhaust can be done but there's no other room to mod or tune.

Give the Levorg a drive, play with the driving modes - there's three, I,S and S# - and also give it a whirl in S# manual select. TBH in S# manual select it plays as a pretend paddle shift gearbox quite well

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


Upon inspection, the O2 sensors I bought from a pre-2004 EZ30 do not transfer into post-2004 EZ30 exhausts. Older ones are 3 wires into a female socket, newer are 4 wires into a male socket.

So I looked at the O2 sensor in there more closely - definitely not a Bardman'sArtisinal!

The first clue was that it was wrapped in blue electrical tape.

Once I'd pulled that off, it was clear a wire was loose. Taking the socket apart, someone had joined in wires with little rubbery squeeze connector things? Never seen anything like them before.

Not having spare pins or a crimping tool I used a bent screwdriver head to prize open where the wire could be crimped in. Half broke off. I stripped back the wire with a knife half a centimetre or so, and managed to get a "crimp" with my ad-hoc pry tool and some pliers. This was difficult because before the rubber joints someone else (presumably) had soldered wires on.

Anyway there's like 3 strands of wires in contact but the check engine light's off and all it has to do is pass inpection then I don't care if it comes back on. At least until next year!

Man I wish I owned tools...

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

So the vf52 I have on the Legacy poo poo itself. I have the old low-mileage vf46 still that I can put on to at least get back and forth to work. Ok to drive easy for a few days until I can get another 52? or something betterer?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Probably. Just don't lean into boost so much. Did you have it tuned for the 52? Do you have a stockish map for the 46?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Yes, it is tuned for the 52, and i'm pretty sure my accessport has the stock map on it as a backup...just need to dig it out from wherever it wandered off to.

BossTweed
Apr 9, 2001


Doctor Rope
Am I an idiot letting the dealership replace both front axles on my 100k mile 2015 Outback? I have a clicking sound when I do sharp right turns at low speed, took it in and they said both are bad. The boots all look fine, uncracked, etc.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I mean... it's odd for both to fail at the same time, but I've had plenty that were popping/clicking with intact boots.

You can always tell them to just replace the noisy one (likely the passenger side front). And OEM Subaru axles are always better than what a 3rd party shop will put on unless they're getting them from Subaru. There's absolutely no shame in telling them you're declining repairs except for <x item>.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Mar 25, 2021

BossTweed
Apr 9, 2001


Doctor Rope

STR posted:

I mean... it's odd for both to fail at the same time, but I've had plenty that were popping/clicking with intact boots.

You can always tell them to just replace the noisy one (likely the passenger side front). And OEM Subaru axles are always better than what a 3rd party shop will put on unless they're getting them from Subaru.

Yeah, I was initially thinking it would be just the passenger front, but if they are both bad/going bad, it is what it is. I was just surprised and didn't know if they had a history of issues. For some reason I have had to have wheel bearings replaced a bunch on this car as well, I think both of them once and one of them twice, although that was all under warranty.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

BossTweed posted:

Am I an idiot letting the dealership replace both front axles on my 100k mile 2015 Outback? I have a clicking sound when I do sharp right turns at low speed, took it in and they said both are bad. The boots all look fine, uncracked, etc.

You are not an idiot, you almost certainly had one failing so it was actually a good thing to replace both.

quote:

And OEM Subaru axles are always better than what a 3rd party shop will put on unless they're getting them from Subaru

Ummm..... I'm not so sure about that

net work error
Feb 26, 2011

net work error posted:

For a VA WRX what's the best option for transmission fluid changes? I was thinking Motul Gear for both rear and front but I have seen some sites recommend a different fluid for the front vs rear.

Bumping this for some recommendations.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Hi friends, quick Q. Having trouble getting search hits for this. Can anybody advise where the fuel pump access is on a 2012 Forester (NA, trash engine, Limited trim)? I'm just wondering if it requires a tank drop or if I can hit it from the cargo compartment.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Jonny 290 posted:

Hi friends, quick Q. Having trouble getting search hits for this. Can anybody advise where the fuel pump access is on a 2012 Forester (NA, trash engine, Limited trim)? I'm just wondering if it requires a tank drop or if I can hit it from the cargo compartment.

Pull the passenger seat, it's right under there.

This is a pretty good video on pulling the assembly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyiF9EjAR1k

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Splendid. as a former bmw fanboy I can swap a fuel pump under a seat in like 22 minutes flat. I know this.

i own every Bionicle
Oct 23, 2005

cstm ttle? kthxbye
Also, be sure to replace the gasket that the white plastic bucket sits on, and make sure you re-torque the nuts in the right order to the right torque as specified in the manual. Failure to do this will make the tank leak when full, since the fuel level is above that gasket. If the round black painted steel clamp plate thing is rusty, consider replacing that too since they are only like 20 bucks, and if it leaks due to corrosion you’ll have to take everything apart again to replace the gasket a second time.

Ask me how I know :v:

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


Any CO goons take an outback on the various passes, alpine loop, black bear, etc? Thinking about trading in my Model 3 for a 2021 XT and slapping a small lift and A/T tires / wheels on it. I’m also looking at a 4runner, which obviously does much better off road but I would like to have the functionality of a wagon.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
The XT has a turbocharged engine, it should be really good up at altitude. The 4Runner is already 4-800lbs heavier and won't have any boost. You could always see if someone makes a lift kit for a Model Y if you like your Tesla otherwise.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

the forester also has a deceptively large amount of ground clearance; you may not even need a lift, just some beefier tread

e: oh wait the XT is an outback now

Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Mar 26, 2021

DrChu
May 14, 2002

2013 BRZ

I was driving in some stop and go traffic earlier this afternoon and at one point I almost stalled moving from a stop, but I quickly pushed the clutch in and the car was able to recover. However, for the rest of the drive (2-3 miles) the car felt off. It hesitated in low RPMs (most notably in first, a little in second), had an unsteady idle and seemed to sound more coarse. No CEL or any other lights and by the time I got to my house the hesitation was mostly gone but the car still felt a little off and a little noisier than usual (though it was hard to tell exactly what the noise was like because it is very windy today). Could the near stall have put me into some kind of limp mode? I don't have my code reader with me to check for any kind of stored codes, but if I need to I can have my girlfriend bring it over from her house before I try driving again.

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


Wrar posted:

The XT has a turbocharged engine, it should be really good up at altitude. The 4Runner is already 4-800lbs heavier and won't have any boost. You could always see if someone makes a lift kit for a Model Y if you like your Tesla otherwise.

Thats what I was thinking too. Small displacement NA engines kinda struggle here already so I think a turbo is probably a must especially above 10k. I was originally thinking of a Y but theres no DCFC readily available in the places I want to go. Probably going to take a look at some outbacks later this weekend. Thanks all!

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Yeah, I have a '99 Impreza with the 2.2 living at a high elevation and my fifth gear is basically useless unless and until I'm on the interstate, and even then on several hills I have to downshift to 4th. I'd like to get it turbocharged but I already have a project car, I need to keep this one boringly reliable. A turbo engine would be miles ahead of it. Not sure what you could do as far as passes, though, I haven't taken mine on any. From what my offraoding friends say I'd guess the problem would be more about the lack of locking differentials, but it could just be offroading SUV elitism.

i own every Bionicle
Oct 23, 2005

cstm ttle? kthxbye

DrChu posted:

2013 BRZ

I was driving in some stop and go traffic earlier this afternoon and at one point I almost stalled moving from a stop, but I quickly pushed the clutch in and the car was able to recover. However, for the rest of the drive (2-3 miles) the car felt off. It hesitated in low RPMs (most notably in first, a little in second), had an unsteady idle and seemed to sound more coarse. No CEL or any other lights and by the time I got to my house the hesitation was mostly gone but the car still felt a little off and a little noisier than usual (though it was hard to tell exactly what the noise was like because it is very windy today). Could the near stall have put me into some kind of limp mode? I don't have my code reader with me to check for any kind of stored codes, but if I need to I can have my girlfriend bring it over from her house before I try driving again.

I’ve been wracking my brain trying to figure out what this could be, and I can’t think of anything the ECU would have done to make it run weird after nearly stalling it, but you could either reset it with your code reader or pull a battery connector for 30 seconds to clear it if it was something from the ECU to see if that straightens it out.

What’s possible and very sad would be a spun bearing which would explain the additional noise (slight rod knock) and rough running. It could be caused by lugging/nearly stalling the engine but I wouldn’t think that just doing it once would have caused it, so unless you made that a habit it could have been the straw that broke the camel’s back. They are known to go on that engine AFAIK.

If it’s still making the noise, could you post a video?

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

22 Eargesplitten posted:

From what my offraoding friends say I'd guess the problem would be more about the lack of locking differentials, but it could just be offroading SUV elitism.

most jeeps had open diffs front and rear for the first few decades; their ability offroad was forged without lockers. and that's before even accounting for modern stability & traction control, which (assuming the software allows for it) can brake slipping wheels in a crawling or low-traction situation

locking diffs make everything easier and many things faster, but the list of things they make possible is shorter than people think.

just as an example, the jeep renegade, their smallest unibody crossover, has done black bear pass in stock condition

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

22 Eargesplitten posted:

From what my offraoding friends say I'd guess the problem would be more about the lack of locking differentials, but it could just be offroading SUV elitism.

There's no need for locking diffs on snowy highways even in mountain passes. By the time any of that would matter the pass will be closed and you won't be going regardless.

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CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

OMGVBFLOL posted:


just as an example, the jeep renegade, their smallest unibody crossover, has done black bear pass in stock condition

Jeep purpose building a renegade (lol fiat 500) to get through some specific course means their renegade is probably awful at simple, pedestrian poo poo, at best.

Also chrysler quality.

When I see a 20 year old Renegade, safely driving down the road without looking like it's spent its' life at the bottom of a landfill, panels barely hanging on, exhaust pipe gradually eroding as it scrapes lazily against the pavement, then maybe I'll give Chrysler a shred of credit. Maybe. If I don't happen to remember it's based on a Fiat and congratulate them first.


That all reminds me. I saw a 90s Intrepid the other day for the first time in ages. It looked like rolling poo poo.

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