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I did think about it but the landlord would blow a gasket if I brought home a wrecked car. Like we're talking bumper looks like it ran headlong into a pole, almost every piece of glass is broken, hood scoop is ripped off, it is in bad shape.
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Apr 19, 2021 13:21
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Got it all back together. Continued forward with the annual lowering of the struts and put on the summers. Glad that's over. Strut bolts are M14x1.5 which is why it was a pita to repair the nuts and bolts after smashing them to get them out.
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Apr 19, 2021 13:31
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Might be a dumb question but what do you usually use to remove the two bolts holding the caliper? Last time I tried changing my rotors they were on tough and I didn't want to risk stripping them so I just went to a shop instead.
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Apr 19, 2021 14:40
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Penetrating oil, impact socket, breaker bar. Reassemble with anti seize. Replace the bolts if they look iffy.
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Apr 19, 2021 14:44
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The top one always makes it impossible to get an impact socket on it due to its proximity to the strut bolts.  Bought a swivel socket between expletives last time I had to do it, haven't gotten a chance to see if it even fits yet.
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Apr 19, 2021 14:55
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Someone say antisieze? Naturally I couldn't take any photos of the antisiezing process without turning my phone silver. But it was applied to the back of the rotors, all threads, and the mating surface of the strut and hub. My bolts were so tight the rattle gun just sat there making angry noises for 15 seconds while nothing happened. They were damaged coming out. I have new ones on order. When I put them back on, I rattle gunned them until they stopped moving, then breaker bar'd them just a little more.
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Apr 19, 2021 15:26
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I did think about it but the landlord would blow a gasket if I brought home a wrecked car. Like we're talking bumper looks like it ran headlong into a pole, almost every piece of glass is broken, hood scoop is ripped off, it is in bad shape. Well, I ended up considering buying it and putting it under the car cover but the lot won't even sell it on a bill of sale with no title, so I guess I'm just pulling as much as I can and building a lean-to to store my poo poo.
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Apr 19, 2021 19:55
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net work error posted:Might be a dumb question but what do you usually use to remove the two bolts holding the caliper? Last time I tried changing my rotors they were on tough and I didn't want to risk stripping them so I just went to a shop instead. Unless it's Brembos (which rip out the threads if you sneeze at them wrong), I let them soak in penetrating oil, then put a regular box-end wrench on them and hit the other end with a hammer as a sort of poor man's impact. If that doesn't work after 2-3 blows, it's torch time.
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Apr 19, 2021 20:01
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05 Outback EZ30 Current electrical issue: Parked up, key in ignition, rotate to 2nd position Electrics seem fine Turn the key Heavy click like starter engaging but immediately kills all electrics Reach in engine bay and jiggle negative battery lead around Electrics come back on and seem fine Maybe starts, otherwise repeat process ---- The electrics in it have been hacked to poo poo. So that isn't surprising. However it started doing a new trick: While driving, flash handbrake, airbag, traction control lights in a wave-like pattern from left to right in the cluster. Kill speedo unless braking, when speedo will work again. make the brake pedal loosey goosey unless pushed far enough down to make a grind-y clunk, whereupon act normal again All warning lights go off, speedoworks again, brake pedal feels firm like normal. The brakes still work even when it goes loose, so that's good. Any guesses on whether it's the same electrical thing or a different issue?
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Apr 19, 2021 20:32
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How's your battery? Also is the check engine light illuminated while the key is in position 2 but not started?
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Apr 19, 2021 23:35
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simplefish posted:05 Outback EZ30 Do you want an alternator for testing purposes? I have one off an 05 GT that I suspected was noisey but it was an idler instead. It works fine. I’m sure it’s the same model. I also have a mostly disassembled master cylinder. Yours free if you want them. PM me.
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Apr 20, 2021 00:32
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Charles posted:How's your battery? Battery is fine, starts easy when it does go No CEL even when it's having a stroke i own every Bionicle posted:Do you want an alternator for testing purposes? I have one off an 05 GT that I suspected was noisey but it was an idler instead. It works fine. I’m sure it’s the same model. I also have a mostly disassembled master cylinder. Yours free if you want them. PM me. Thank you, I do think my alternator is pretty noisy. I'll PM you
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Apr 20, 2021 01:41
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simplefish posted:Battery is fine, starts easy when it does go If the CEL is not illuminated when the engine is not running, the ECU may not be getting power. Check the main relay if there are no codes stored.
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Apr 20, 2021 02:30
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Charles posted:If the CEL is not illuminated when the engine is not running, the ECU may not be getting power. Check the main relay if there are no codes stored. Oh I see what you mean, sorry misunderstood - I will check
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Apr 20, 2021 03:40
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well, I ended up considering buying it and putting it under the car cover but the lot won't even sell it on a bill of sale with no title, so I guess I'm just pulling as much as I can and building a lean-to to store my poo poo. yeah i realized after i posted that self-service recyclers have to remove the catalytic converters before putting the cars out for customers, so selling it would probably have to involve some sort of process to render it no longer a vehicle, like a half-cut or something, and they'd probably just as soon not even if they could because anyone willing to buy the whole wreck is probably willing to keep coming back for parts e: also yeah having wrecks around is a pita if you're not the landowner, and even then Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 03:49
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net work error posted:Might be a dumb question but what do you usually use to remove the two bolts holding the caliper? Last time I tried changing my rotors they were on tough and I didn't want to risk stripping them so I just went to a shop instead. penetrant and the open end of a box wrench hasn't failed me yet, but my roads never see snow so ymmv
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Apr 20, 2021 03:51
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The bolts like to weld themselves through the upright in a salt laden environment. I've had it happen multiple times to the point where I started disassembling prior to winter and coating the hole they pass through with anti-seize I once broke the bolt head off the top bolt and I was able to rotate the caliper bracket on the top bolt, but when I looked at it from behind it wasn't turning. The bracket was rotating on the threads. I had to tap the bolt with a punch from the back while shaking the bracket up and down to eventually break it free. At least I didn't have to replace the caliper bracket, only the bolt.
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Apr 20, 2021 04:52
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Alright, curious what AI's take here is, even though this is in "arguing with the dealer" land and no one can help me with that. We bought a 2015 Forester used certified preowned warranty blah blah blah in 2017, with around 35k miles on it. Within some relatively short period of time, the clutch failed. This did not thrill me. Our local mechanic, who worked at the specific Subaru dealership in question, said to take it there and give them hell. We did, and the determination of the mechanic was that there was a defect with the flywheel which had damaged the clutch. I have the documentation from that repair. "Verified customer's concerns. Removed transmission. Found flywheel is slipping and hotspotted. Resulting damage to clutch disk and release bearings. Replaced all clutch components". Forty thousand miles later, poof, same problem and I managed to actually smoke out the clutch to the point that I couldn't get home and had to go for a tow. Took it to local guy again because it's much closer. Local mechanic believes that the likely situation is that "hotspotting" was lovely, and they should have replaced the flywheel, and probably it's the same story all over again where the flywheel has hosed up the clutch. I'm going to try to get Subaru to agree with that and do this under warranty again, of course a lot of that is gonna depend on what they find when they yank the transmission / the mood of the tech / the mood of the warranty guy. If they won't do it under warranty, I am out like $300 on towing because I'll have to bring it back to local guy, since it's literally 100% more expensive to do the clutch at the dealer. (I worked at a car dealer group for 3 years, was friends with many techs and salesmen, and have a general sense how that all works. I have a ton of respect for most of the auto techs I've met, and a dim view of most of the salesmen.... the specifics of your experience also depends a lot on the attitude of the service manager, I have found....) If anyone has any useful thoughts, awesome. I am basically gambling $300 in tow fees, because I am just out that if it ends up coming back to local shop to also be out $1200 on the clutch  Also: this car had a manufacturing defect that caused it to burn oil and they actually had to replace the entire short block as a defect at no cost to us so that's kinda LOL. Two clutches and a new short block in a 2015 car with 80k miles on it Also I've been driving standards since 1998. I can be hard on clutches but I am not that hard and in 40,000 miles I've done maybe three real sketchy steep-angle things that caused me to smell clutch. I understand how to properly engage and disengage the clutch, and before having this vehicle we had a 1992 camry that I think we did a clutch on at ~150K miles and then never again for the life of the car.
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Apr 21, 2021 17:31
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Has anyone looked at the clutch master/slave assembly yet? Like, is the slave retaining pressure when the clutch is released, but gradually releasing, so you might not be noticing a lag in pedal return? Is the pedal slow to return to released position?
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Apr 21, 2021 17:43
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Has anyone looked at the clutch master/slave assembly yet? quote:Is the pedal slow to return to released position? Nope, in both cases, the clutch engages, you feel like you're in gear fine and the clutch fully releases, but the RPM is unsteady and tends to shoot from 2.5k to 5k and back, and right before I completely smoked the clutch I was struggling to accelerate uphill in 2nd from like 20mph to 25. This is exactly the same set of symptoms as before, except in that case it never got to the point of "clutch literally won't go into any gear", but I think it was pretty close. This feels different than other clutches that have gone on me over the years. There was never any sense of softness, or difficulty getting into gear, etc -- but when clutch disengaged, engine revs to insane levels, and I completely killed the clutch trying to get back home up a ~3 mile, 20-30 degree grade on dirt yesterday. edit: car on their way to Subaru, I am leaving a note with service that I strongly believe the prior flywheel hotspotting failed resulting in exactly the same symptoms and that this should be a warranty issue. If they say otherwise, I will fight city hall as hard as I can and then resign myself to either taking money out of my bank account or selling a loving Gaea's Cradle or something. edit2: Subaru said flywheel WAS replaced despite "hotspot" note, and pointed to part of the invoice which does show "flywheel assembly". Not much I can do until their techs look at it, and if they decide LOL YER hosed then I am probably just out $1500 I'd rather not be, but, lol, that's cars! Also I live at 1300' on crazy rear end loving dirt roads and I have been known to pull trailers. On the other hand, this thing has a rated tow capacity of 1000lbs with no trailer brakes and I doubt if I've ever towed more than 800lbs, not very aggressively. Short distance things like loads of trash to the dump, mowers to the mower store, etc. Cabbages and VHS fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 17:56
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The thing that sticks out to me is the previously noted damage to the release bearing. That reads to me like something is constantly holding it against the pressure plate springs so it can't freewheel when released, be it a damage throw-out arm, out of spec bearing, or excess pressure in the slave cylinder causing it to continue to apply pressure when seemingly released. Spring pressure will return the pedal to the normal position, and probably override any vacuum pressure the master produces trying to disengage. If there's a machining imperfection in the master or slave, it could be hanging internally. It's like something is riding the clutch for you, basically. If it comes back with throw-out bearing damage, I'd start asking for them to check the master/slave cylinders. Not a lot of components are going to cause that effect, follow the path of pressure. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 18:26
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thanks for the information, this is exactly the kind of context that will be very helpful if they come back with anything other than " okay warranty repair, ready on ${date}"
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Apr 21, 2021 19:42
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Opinion gathering, recently pulled old valves out and cleaned them up. Most of them have small or minor chunks missing from the actual stems in the same spot. How comfortable would you be reusing these old valves vs new ones with new guides. Just trying to confirm I'm not crazy feeling uncomfortable about reusing these for the sake of saving a few bucks in the short term
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Apr 22, 2021 01:46
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I'd replace them, dropping valves isn't pretty and it's not bank breaking job to do. Might as well do guides and retainers as well.
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Apr 22, 2021 01:54
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Yeah, replacing valves when you've already got the heads out is probably the easiest decision to make. I wouldn't put anything questionable back in with that much labor and potential destruction possible. Why is the motor apart? I just had an EJ255 rebuilt last year for the second time since I've owned it (and rebuilt in this case was rebuilt heads with mostly new components and a new shortblock from Subaru). Blown head gasket with 220k on a turbo EJ seems like it was about time.
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Apr 22, 2021 02:36
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https://twitter.com/NBCNews/status/1384845569672237057quote:The stalling recall covers more than 466,000 Crosstrek SUVs from 2018 and 2019 and Impreza cars from 2017 through 2019, and the suspension recall affects more than 408,000 2018 and 2019 Crosstreks and 2019 Foresters. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 12:02 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2021 11:53
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PitViper posted:Yeah, replacing valves when you've already got the heads out is probably the easiest decision to make. I wouldn't put anything questionable back in with that much labor and potential destruction possible. Engine tricked me into thinking I had thrown a rod. Only after I split the block and realized there was no rod thrown that the timing belt was slapping idlers as it had a huge amount of play in one spot. And then of course I threw all the guts in a giant pile cause I was so sure it was a rod. Big oof! Shops in my area charge way too much for machining and fitting to the point it's cheaper to replace the entire block.
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Apr 22, 2021 13:25
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I'm going to be pulling a 5MT and a rear differential from an early '90s car (SVX) over the next couple of days, anything I should know ahead of time aside from spray everything in sight with penetrating oil before I start? I'll have a transmission jack.
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Apr 22, 2021 20:56
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Charles posted:Does the FB20D (2020 Impreza) cold idle a bit shakily? Still curious about this, it transmits a fair bit of vibration through the car. My last Subaru was an 06 so was a whole different generation of motor / fuel injection, not to mention everything else, so it could just be normal. Was curious if anybody had compared.
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Apr 22, 2021 22:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm going to be pulling a 5MT and a rear differential from an early '90s car (SVX) over the next couple of days, anything I should know ahead of time aside from spray everything in sight with penetrating oil before I start? I'll have a transmission jack. Take the flywheel too. And if you plan on using the clutch, take a clutch alignment tool to drop in the void left by the input shaft when you back the trans out and down. They're $5-10 and worth saving a headache later. I know on newer stuff, the ECM is different for an auto vs a manual, so maybe take that too, just in case.
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Apr 22, 2021 23:53
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Good idea, generally this swap doesn't include a new ECU but if I'm incredibly lucky the guy might have stuck some sort of standalone in there. I'm wondering if I should just get a new clutch since I don't know how old the one currently in there is and it's a hell of a lot easier to replace it now than to have to pull it out 15,000 miles later. E: Any idea where the specific transmission code is on the body of the transmission so I can check what it was from originally? Definitely going to want to make sure I get a clutch rated for the ~230ftlb of torque considering if this was taken from a NA model the clutch was probably specced for more like 170ftlb at most. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Apr 23, 2021 |
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Apr 23, 2021 01:54
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Tialshaft will be different too. Grab that.
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Apr 23, 2021 02:18
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I'm not familiar with the term "tailshaft", looking it up it looks like some results are for some kind of housing and then some are for what Subaru calls the driveline or propshaft, the shaft with a u-joint on it that goes from the transmission to the rear diff? I'll either be taking that or taking the spacer if I'm lucky enough that the guy bolted it on rather than welding it on.
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Apr 23, 2021 03:07
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I would take the whole driveshaft regardless, in case it was modified to balance it for the little adapter, or just because we know for certain that it was part of this swap when it ran and drove. Even if you replace it or use what you already have, a couple bucks for an old-rear end, potentially forklift-damaged driveshaft answers a whole lot of questions you might develop a year or two later, when you're hip-deep in the guts of an SVX.
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Apr 23, 2021 03:11
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God loving dammit the point might be moot. I just checked their site again and the car no longer appears, which means it's likely they just sent that thing to the crusher. Well, at least I got the parts I needed the most last week. I guess I'll call in the morning.
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Apr 23, 2021 05:21
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Good idea, generally this swap doesn't include a new ECU but if I'm incredibly lucky the guy might have stuck some sort of standalone in there. I'm wondering if I should just get a new clutch since I don't know how old the one currently in there is and it's a hell of a lot easier to replace it now than to have to pull it out 15,000 miles later. What year model is it again? If it's a 96 or 97, you'll have a check engine light (throwing a code for not being able to communicate with the transmission), but that should be the only issue. If it's 95 or older there should be no issue at all as far as the ECU goes. 22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm not familiar with the term "tailshaft" "Tailshaft" is non-Murican speak for rear driveshaft.
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Apr 23, 2021 15:38
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Tailshaft to me is the rear most housing on the trans where the driveshaft goes in. On the auto Subies I think that's where the center "differential" is though I haven't taken one apart yet.
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Apr 23, 2021 18:45
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22 Eargesplitten posted:God loving dammit the point might be moot. I just checked their site again and the car no longer appears, which means it's likely they just sent that thing to the crusher. Well, at least I got the parts I needed the most last week. I guess I'll call in the morning. Late to this thread, but whatup SVX project buddy  If by some miracle that car is still there, CAREFULLY grab the door sills too. They're lovely plastic and fit into the metal with 4 tabs that break if you look at them funny. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Apr 25, 2021 |
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Apr 25, 2021 15:14
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Charles posted:Still curious about this, it transmits a fair bit of vibration through the car. My last Subaru was an 06 so was a whole different generation of motor / fuel injection, not to mention everything else, so it could just be normal. Was curious if anybody had compared. My stock 2020 WRX is pretty shaky and noisy for a few minutes at the start. The shake is just when cranking over. It then quiets down a lot (around the time it warms up to that first notch on the oil temp,) but I'll still feel occasional "burbles" at stop lights. I read somewhere that that startup shake was intentional to scare any small animals out from under the car. I don't buy it, but Subaru does seem more interested in the wellbeing of animals than most car brands. It's even in the owner's manual! "If a small animal is in your engine bay when you start the car, a malfunction may occur."
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Apr 26, 2021 18:07
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My 2015 WRX has a tune and still idles like poo poo during warmup. I even get a "multiple random misfire" once a month or so.
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Apr 26, 2021 18:15
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