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That should be a warranty issue, but it sounds like they're going to be shitlords about it so just hate-mail VW (and that particular dealer) on Twitter if you want them to fix it, or go off and fix it yourself, either way. I'd consider vhb tape or the adhesive motronic posted, whichever you prefer.
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May 18, 2021 18:04
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kastein posted:I'd consider vhb tape or the adhesive motronic posted, whichever you prefer. I tried VHB tape first. It sure keeps it there but it seems to insulate the glass from the heating elements. This might not be a problem on something that isn't a mid 80s German shitbox.
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May 18, 2021 18:09
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Oh the heating element is not built into the glass? WTF. I could swear it was on the last heated mirror I dissected. Yeah, glue it is then.
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May 18, 2021 18:16
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kastein posted:Oh the heating element is not built into the glass? WTF. I could swear it was on the last heated mirror I dissected. Yeah, glue it is then. Correct, the element on mine is on the backing plate/pad that the glass attaches to - looks to work the same way as underfloor heating.
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May 18, 2021 18:19
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Maybe thermal tape, like what you use on heatsinks? I don't know how well it'll hold up against weather, and I'd try to get it warrantied first, but... https://www.amazon.com/Ceatech-Thermal-Adhesive-Conductive-Computer/dp/B075F37SQG
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May 18, 2021 18:26
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buglord posted:How does a car move forward? Hi just a follow up on this whole question. Interviewed with a company who also wanted someone with a basic foundation on cars. They knew I was car illiterate but for the final interview I really blew their socks off by demonstrating what I learned on my own in a few short days. They also asked about transmission and differential steering(!), and I was able to explain it to them clearly because I learned it so recently. In short, thanks everyone. I dont care what they say, AI is neat. buglord fucked around with this message at 21:17 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 21:14
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Wait, what do they say about AI? 
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May 18, 2021 22:49
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Yeah, who the gently caress is talking poo poo about AI?
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May 18, 2021 22:55
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Lmao
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May 19, 2021 00:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, spray cans get amazingly expensive when you realize how little they actually cover. A compressor costs hundreds of dollars and enough spray paint to cover a sedan shouldn't even cost $100 if I'm doing the math right. Speaking of which, how did this crazy guy do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt3YtLH7NJs
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May 19, 2021 00:47
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 What are those black covers over the wheels called?
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May 19, 2021 03:46
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NotNut posted:
fender flares
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May 19, 2021 03:48
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Also some times called “over fenders”, specially for that style
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May 19, 2021 04:08
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buglord posted:Hi just a follow up on this whole question. Interviewed with a company who also wanted someone with a basic foundation on cars. They knew I was car illiterate but for the final interview I really blew their socks off by demonstrating what I learned on my own in a few short days. They also asked about transmission and differential steering(!), and I was able to explain it to them clearly because I learned it so recently. congrats on the job, friendo
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May 19, 2021 08:02
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simplefish posted:congrats on the job, friendo Thanks but i haven’t been told whether I got it or not yet! 😬
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May 19, 2021 08:06
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buglord posted:Thanks but i haven’t been told whether I got it or not yet! 😬 What type of job did you apply for?
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May 19, 2021 13:11
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im very curious what kind of job would require mechanical car knowledge but only as much as you could learn by asking this gang of goobers
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May 19, 2021 13:17
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Hey folks. I've been talking to some shops about retrofitting cruise control to my car, because while I typically use it for short drives here and there, occasionally I do 6+hr drives which absolutely destroy my already hosed knee when holding the pedal at motorway speeds for hours. The general information I'm getting back is that my specific car (the manual petrol 2004 Honda Civic Type R) still has a cable-driven throttle, which perhaps explains why the PO didn't get CC from the factory when I had it on my old Type S (which is apparently electronic). It's beginning to look like these shops no longer want to deal with aftermarket CC on cable throttles, so I may need to do it myself, which is something I've been hoping to avoid since I generally don't like to DIY things that have a high capacity to kill me, and a stuck throttle seems like one of those things. That said, this appears to be the go-to aftermarket kit. http://www.avsgemini.com/liteon-ap500-aftermarket-cruise-control.html Does that seem even vaguely reasonable for a competent amateur to attempt? What do I look for to see if it is indeed cable? Do you have any other safe option to save my knees on rare long treks? Doesn't have to be convenient, just safe. Edit: If it helps at all, from some extra digging I've found some cruise-control related info in the shop manual:  Note that the R has a 6-speed gearbox while the others were all a 5-speed. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 14:11 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 13:56
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Deteriorata posted:fender flares Powershift posted:Also some times called “over fenders”, specially for that style Let's open our minds to other parts of the world. over wings
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May 19, 2021 14:42
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C-Bangin' it 
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Jaded Burnout posted:Hey folks. I've been talking to some shops about retrofitting cruise control to my car, because while I typically use it for short drives here and there, occasionally I do 6+hr drives which absolutely destroy my already hosed knee when holding the pedal at motorway speeds for hours. Looks like the right part, shouldn't kill you because it defaults to disengaging if there' a problem. And yeah, it's probably DIY-able for just about anyone. Considering the work you've done on your house you can definitely do it. Post a pic of under the bonnet and you'll immediately have at least 6 goons confirming if it is in fact cable driven.
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May 19, 2021 16:51
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Motronic posted:shouldn't kill you because it defaults to disengaging if there' a problem I guess my paranoia with these things is that they're safe if you do it right, but reassuring nonetheless. Motronic posted:And yeah, it's probably DIY-able for just about anyone. Considering the work you've done on your house you can definitely do it. Cool, also reassuring. Motronic posted:Post a pic of under the bonnet and you'll immediately have at least 6 goons confirming if it is in fact cable driven. Will do.
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May 19, 2021 17:00
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Jaded Burnout posted:I guess my paranoia with these things is that they're safe if you do it right, but reassuring nonetheless. With the old school units you'd have to add or tap into an existing brake and clutch switch. That could absolutely be screwed up/badly adjusted. But this unit attaches to the canbus of the car and is taking data directly from your ECU. That probably makes it near completely failsafe.
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May 19, 2021 17:15
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Motronic posted:With the old school units you'd have to add or tap into an existing brake and clutch switch. That could absolutely be screwed up/badly adjusted. But this unit attaches to the canbus of the car and is taking data directly from your ECU. That probably makes it near completely failsafe. Hm. I'm not sure if that's the case with this one. I'm not sure this model of car has a CAN bus (at least there's no mention of it in the workshop manual) and the AP500 seems to very much be one of the old school ones: https://imgur.com/a/qizuZx9 (first two images are from what I think is the correct install manual) Looks like maybe the AP900 is the first one that behaves like you describe? Based on the image not having any obvious cable linkage:  but presumably I can't use that on a car without an electronic throttle.
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May 19, 2021 17:41
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Jaded Burnout posted:Hm. I'm not sure if that's the case with this one. I'm not sure this model of car has a CAN bus (at least there's no mention of it in the workshop manual) and the AP500 seems to very much be one of the old school ones: Ohhhhhh...I was look at the 900C feature list, not the 900. Still, you actually know how to use tools and how mechanical things work. Most people do not and will fumble setting the switches correctly. I still don't think you'll have an issue.
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May 19, 2021 17:44
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I was debating doing the bare minimum or not when it comes to my '98 Chevy S10 and decided to just say gently caress it and go for the whole kit... so I'm changing both outer and inner tie rods on both sides as well as both drum brakes including new hardware. I have most "normal" tool, and am getting one of those fork splitters (pickle fork?) as well as a hand grease pump for the grease for the tie rod ends. Are there any "quality of life" tools that I should get for either the tie rod stuff or drum brakes? Or any general tips or tricks that'll make it less of a pain?
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May 19, 2021 18:09
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Motronic posted:Ohhhhhh...I was look at the 900C feature list, not the 900. OK cool. Motronic posted:Post a pic of under the bonnet and you'll immediately have at least 6 goons confirming if it is in fact cable driven. Click for (very) big  Not sure if relevant, but some shots near the firewall:   For anyone kind enough to investigate, it's a RHD car so some things may be moved. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 18:46 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 18:41
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Zoom ... enhance.
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May 19, 2021 18:52
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Your throttle body is this thing here: Need to get better shots of it to see if there's a cable actuating it or not. That big black connector could easily be either an electric actuator for an electric throttle, or it could be IAC/TPS for a cable throttle. Alternatively, look at the throttle pedal itself. It will either be pulling on a cable, or it will end in a control box with a rotary encoder inside it. edit: Krakkles is probably right, that does look like it could be a throttle cable
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May 19, 2021 18:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Your throttle body is this thing here: Alright, I'll assume it's cable for now, but I'll check again when it stops raining. Also something tells me I used too much copper grease in the past.
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May 19, 2021 18:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:edit: Krakkles is probably right, that does look like it could be a throttle cable If you follow that cable, it should end on what we've identified as the Throttle Body, on something that looks vaguely like this (I'd bet directly opposite - so toward back of car - of that electric module (sensor/actuator) IOC pointed out):
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May 19, 2021 18:58
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NotNut posted:A compressor costs hundreds of dollars and enough spray paint to cover a sedan shouldn't even cost $100 if I'm doing the math right. The biggest difference is that the spray can job won't last. Auto paint is quite thick, especially the clear coat layer. It is chemically resistant to things like gasoline and it is designed to flex with the body panels. Also notice that guy had to do the same prep and sanding work so you aren't going to save any time.
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May 19, 2021 20:21
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JB, there is a really good chance that instead of loving around with an aftermarket kit you can roll on over to the closest breakers that has one in stock with your engine and factory cruise control and simply buy all the parts that are different and plug them in on your car. This is usually possible because most oems use the same harness for with and without cruise models now to reduce inventory SKU count and assembly line complexity. Check the Honda specific forums and see if this is correct for your model, then you can probably buy like 100 worth of factory parts, plug it all in and it'll be like it had it from the factory.
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May 19, 2021 21:16
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kastein posted:JB, there is a really good chance that instead of loving around with an aftermarket kit you can roll on over to the closest breakers that has one in stock with your engine and factory cruise control and simply buy all the parts that are different and plug them in on your car. This is usually possible because most oems use the same harness for with and without cruise models now to reduce inventory SKU count and assembly line complexity. Check the Honda specific forums and see if this is correct for your model, then you can probably buy like 100 worth of factory parts, plug it all in and it'll be like it had it from the factory. Given that the other models of the era apparently had electronic throttles I'm beginning to wonder if it was even an option on the Type R. But a good lead to investigate. Edit: From digging around it looks like fewer than 10k of these still exist so they're not super common on scrap yards, and with further digging I'm 80% sure cruise control was never a factory option for this one, only aircon. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 21:40 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 21:23
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MrOnBicycle posted:I was debating doing the bare minimum or not when it comes to my '98 Chevy S10 and decided to just say gently caress it and go for the whole kit... so I'm changing both outer and inner tie rods on both sides as well as both drum brakes including new hardware. I have most "normal" tool, and am getting one of those fork splitters (pickle fork?) as well as a hand grease pump for the grease for the tie rod ends. Are there any "quality of life" tools that I should get for either the tie rod stuff or drum brakes? Or any general tips or tricks that'll make it less of a pain? When you get your replacement parts, (tie rods) look to see if they come with cotter pins. Get a few handfuls of them in whatever size. You'll probably drop a few and if not they'll come in handy for other random poo poo. You might be able to borrow the inner tie rod socket, from a parts store, but maybe not. If not you'll pretty much need that for the inners. Are you the goon with the S10 thats in Sweden or Denmark or somewhere around there? I haven't worked on drum brakes in years but if you don't have them, get a set of "drum brake tools". The big weird looking pliers thing, the spring tool and the adjusting tool. You *can* get by without any of that poo poo, but it does make things easier. https://www.princessauto.com/en/brake-service-tools/category/330-010-025-030 <------ Second and third rows in this link. Take a picture of your drum brakes before you start. I've seen some drum brakes that only have two springs and are super simple others have some pretty weird set ups so it'll help to take a pic as soon as you take the drum off and see where everything is. Worst case scenario, is the opposite side is a mirror image. The adjuster is probably seized so take a wire wheel to it. Inside, try to get a wire tube brush that fits inside, chuck that poo poo up in a drill and brush the inside part of it. I've never had any luck using anti seize on that part. YMMV but I've only ever had luck using actual brake lube on the adjuster threads. Some may argue different on that point, but thats just my experience. Fake edit: You already mentioned the new hardware........
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May 19, 2021 22:37
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MrOnBicycle posted:I was debating doing the bare minimum or not when it comes to my '98 Chevy S10 and decided to just say gently caress it and go for the whole kit... so I'm changing both outer and inner tie rods on both sides as well as both drum brakes including new hardware. I have most "normal" tool, and am getting one of those fork splitters (pickle fork?) as well as a hand grease pump for the grease for the tie rod ends. Are there any "quality of life" tools that I should get for either the tie rod stuff or drum brakes? Or any general tips or tricks that'll make it less of a pain? I love this thing. Hardly ever use the pickle fork any more. Even easier if you have a rattle gun. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
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May 19, 2021 23:35
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:im very curious what kind of job would require mechanical car knowledge but only as much as you could learn by asking this gang of goobers dealership salesman
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May 20, 2021 00:45
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Sagebrush posted:dealership salesman I've yet to run into a car salesman that knows shot about poo poo.
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May 20, 2021 00:51
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Hey AI, I have a series of very stupid questions. I own a (fully paid off) 2011 Jeep Wrangler that I can't drive any more because I was diagnosed with a big fuckoff tumor. The logical thing to do would be to sell the Jeep to pay my medical bills, but the problem is, I was out so long that 1. the battery is dead, 2. I can no longer drive for medical reasons, 3. I can't afford to re-register the car - I was hospitalized after moving to Vermont and procrastinated on changing my plates (I know, I know). In VT, new registration costs "6% of the purchase price or the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) clean trade-in value, whichever is greater"; that amount of money is more than I make in a month since I'm buried under medical bills. Is there any way to sell a car without registering it, if I own the title? Should I replace the battery before selling it? And is it possible to sell a car if you can't physically drive?
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May 20, 2021 00:54
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Motronic posted:I've yet to run into a car salesman that knows shot about poo poo. Pretty sure I know more than the service advisor I just interacted with. I definitely can read better.
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May 20, 2021 00:55
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Lieutenant Dan posted:Hey AI, I have a series of very stupid questions. I own a (fully paid off) 2011 Jeep Wrangler that I can't drive any more because I was diagnosed with a big fuckoff tumor. The logical thing to do would be to sell the Jeep to pay my medical bills, but the problem is, I was out so long that 1. the battery is dead, 2. I can no longer drive for medical reasons, 3. I can't afford to re-register the car - I was hospitalized after moving to Vermont and procrastinated on changing my plates (I know, I know). In VT, new registration costs "6% of the purchase price or the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) clean trade-in value, whichever is greater"; that amount of money is more than I make in a month since I'm buried under medical bills. Is there any way to sell a car without registering it, if I own the title? Should I replace the battery before selling it? And is it possible to sell a car if you can't physically drive? If you actually legally own that poo poo, then yes you should be allowed sell it. You can replace the battery before selling it, or not. When you advertise it just put in the ad "battery dead", "needs battery" or some poo poo. Expect someone to demand that you drop the price by some unreasonable amount "cause its got a dead battery", regardless of how much you try to sell it for. Can't physically drive? Or can't legally drive? Regardless, yes you should be able to sell any vehicle you own regardless of whether or not you are legally, or physically able to drive. You just can't drive it for (reason).
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May 20, 2021 01:19
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