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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Lieutenant Dan posted:

Hey AI, I have a series of very stupid questions. I own a (fully paid off) 2011 Jeep Wrangler that I can't drive any more because I was diagnosed with a big fuckoff tumor. The logical thing to do would be to sell the Jeep to pay my medical bills, but the problem is, I was out so long that 1. the battery is dead, 2. I can no longer drive for medical reasons, 3. I can't afford to re-register the car - I was hospitalized after moving to Vermont and procrastinated on changing my plates (I know, I know). In VT, new registration costs "6% of the purchase price or the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) clean trade-in value, whichever is greater"; that amount of money is more than I make in a month since I'm buried under medical bills. Is there any way to sell a car without registering it, if I own the title? Should I replace the battery before selling it? And is it possible to sell a car if you can't physically drive?

Replace the battery. Ask Carmax, carvana , and Vroom what they will pay you for it. You might get a good no fuss offer on it.

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taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

im very curious what kind of job would require mechanical car knowledge but only as much as you could learn by asking this gang of goobers

Embedded software engineer at a car company comes to mind.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

I have a 2003 VW Jetta with a 1.8t motor. I'm trying to figure out a fuel issue that I suspect is the fuel pump, but this post is not about that. While taking a look at the fuel pressure regulator I realized this hose was loose on the engine. Between the haynes manual and google it appears to be the crankcase breather which probably explains all the grime around it. The lower hose is soft and I haven't tried to take that ear clamp off yet.

Here's what I was just looking at (sorry it's dark):


They still line up perfectly but the area's grimey as you can see (night sight photo turned out better):


Engine bay just for reference:


I assume that after taking that clamp off there'll be something hard inside the upper hose that the flange on the lower hose should be sealed into by the clamp. After cleaning the area of the grime will it be enough to remove the clamp, reseat the hose, and re-clamp it? Should I buy a replacement if the existing one isn't a problem as far as I'm aware? Also, can I replace the ear clamp with a more normal hose clamp? I assume so since that's what I've been seeing on youtube but I just want to be sure based on goon consensus best practices. I don't have any spare ear clamps but I do have a box of hose clamps that probably have one that fits. It's a 2003 and it just passed 108k miles. I expect to keep it for a few more years so while I don't want to sink a ton of money into it, I also don't want to totally half-rear end everything.

As an aside, but where does that Y on the upper tube go to? The turbo? I'm just trying to get a handle on what I'm looking at more than anything and most of the diagrams online aren't well labeled or clear. I'm a newbie at fixing car stuff and haven't done much beyond basic repairs like replacing the alternator and brakes and rotors and stuff. I didn't even really know what the crankcase breather did before I looked it up just now, although I've heard the term before.

pokeyman
Nov 26, 2006

That elephant ate my entire platoon.
I don't know anything about cars and have never owned one. My partner got a new job and needs a car to commute, so I find myself wondering about things for the first time with no idea of where to start looking for answers. Today's dosage:

Our building has underground parking for $80/month. There's plenty of convenient street parking, and while I'm not worried about people breaking or stealing things, I'm not sure how worried to be about Nova Scotia weather. It rains, it snows, the daily low is below freezing for four months of the year (though it rarely hits -20C/~0F).

Am I likely to avoid $960/year of excess maintenance or upkeep on a new non-hybrid compact (probably an Elantra) by keeping it inside? My guess is no, but I can be unhelpfully cheap, so I thought I'd ask!

Memento
Aug 25, 2009


Bleak Gremlin
$80/month is insanely worth it to avoid having to walk through a Nova Scotia ice storm to get in your car even if it's only once every few years.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Talk to your insurance to see if your premium drops if the car is in a secured garage. That might make it worth it. Otherwise, unless you get hail, living outside isnt going to hurt it. Especially to the tune of a grand a year.

DesperateDan
Dec 10, 2005

Where's my cow?

Is that my cow?

No it isn't, but it still tramples my bloody lavender.

Rexxed posted:

I have a 2003 VW Jetta with a 1.8t motor. I'm trying to figure out a fuel issue

hey 1.8t buddy

Getting the hang of these hoses isnt too hard and that's good, because if bits haven't been replaced then they are gonna start failing due to age/heatcycles/volkswagen automotive group

You can possibly/probably clean and reattach the hose but if that's failed there it's probably ready to fail other places too so give it a good look over- hose clamps are fine but the cheap ones I used are prone to a bit of rust

Exploded parts diagrams can be helpful in figuring out where stuff should be, but that's no guarantee it was left like that by whoever was in there last (or even that it left the factory like that), and you have to be careful you have the appropriate diagram to your car because lots of changes got made over time

What gave me fuel pump like issues (until the fuel pump actually went) was the crankcase breather valve which is a cheap and reasonably simple fix

I'm off to buy more coil packs, which is an adventure you too can have some day

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Memento posted:

$80/month is insanely worth it to avoid having to walk through a Nova Scotia ice storm to get in your car even if it's only once every few years.

This. Wintertime means cleaning the car off scraping ice off while in the freezing cold on your way to work and possibly getting plowed in by a plow and having to shovel out.
I live in Upstate/Western NY, I would have gotten a garage at my apartment but they wanted me to pay something like 175/month US and the garage could be anywhere, not right next to my apartment so I'd still have to walk in the cold and snow around the complex. If I had access to underground parking below my building I'd 100% for $80 have paid for it. It's a luxury and not necessary your car wont die early or have a lot of extra maintenance being "stored" outside but it's a pain in the rear end to deal with in the winter.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 12:29 on May 20, 2021

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

pokeyman posted:

I don't know anything about cars and have never owned one. My partner got a new job and needs a car to commute, so I find myself wondering about things for the first time with no idea of where to start looking for answers. Today's dosage:

Our building has underground parking for $80/month. There's plenty of convenient street parking, and while I'm not worried about people breaking or stealing things, I'm not sure how worried to be about Nova Scotia weather. It rains, it snows, the daily low is below freezing for four months of the year (though it rarely hits -20C/~0F).

Am I likely to avoid $960/year of excess maintenance or upkeep on a new non-hybrid compact (probably an Elantra) by keeping it inside? My guess is no, but I can be unhelpfully cheap, so I thought I'd ask!

It won't pay off directly but as other people have said I would definitely pay that much money to not have to go outside, clean off the car when it snows, and sit my rear end in a freezing cold seat.

Empress Brosephine
Mar 31, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
hi goons

I am getting some money soon and my fiancee is insistent on buying a jeep; I kinda hate jeeps and the idea of a car that breaks down alot annoys me. I currently drive a 2017 Toyota Corolla XSE (Xtremely Stupid Edition) with such amazing ly unneccesary features such as paddle shifting. Anyways, I love the little car but its not exactly cool ya know?

So i'm wondering if any of you know of any cool cars that would have reliability more akin to Toyota or Honda but I guess with the ability to be a convertible type thing such as a Jeep.


Man I wish they still made FJ Cruisers :(

Budget would be anyweres up to 60k.

I begged her to get a Honda Civic Hatchback or a Corolla Hatchback but I don't think that is going to fly lol.

edit: Oh I also live in northern new england so it has to be able to deal with snow, although i've done fine with the corolla (knock on wood) with all seasons.

pokeyman
Nov 26, 2006

That elephant ate my entire platoon.
Thanks y'all. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't fork over $500 on the spot if a genie appeared before me on a frozen icy day and offered to magically have moved the car into the building, but it's not gonna be me facing that choice so it's a fair point.

Wonder how much the landlord would enjoy it if I only paid for parking in the winter months. Make it cheaper and I'll pay year-round! (There's about one spot per apartment and it's not at all full, feels like they're just gouging on the fee.)

Powershift posted:

Talk to your insurance to see if your premium drops if the car is in a secured garage. That might make it worth it. Otherwise, unless you get hail, living outside isnt going to hurt it. Especially to the tune of a grand a year.

Hadn't thought about insurance, that's a good idea!

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Empress Brosephine posted:

hi goons

I am getting some money soon and my fiancee is insistent on buying a jeep; I kinda hate jeeps and the idea of a car that breaks down alot annoys me. I currently drive a 2017 Toyota Corolla XSE (Xtremely Stupid Edition) with such amazing ly unneccesary features such as paddle shifting. Anyways, I love the little car but its not exactly cool ya know?

So i'm wondering if any of you know of any cool cars that would have reliability more akin to Toyota or Honda but I guess with the ability to be a convertible type thing such as a Jeep.


Man I wish they still made FJ Cruisers :(

Budget would be anyweres up to 60k.

I begged her to get a Honda Civic Hatchback or a Corolla Hatchback but I don't think that is going to fly lol.

edit: Oh I also live in northern new england so it has to be able to deal with snow, although i've done fine with the corolla (knock on wood) with all seasons.


sadly this is where Joops really stand out on their own. Here's the thing though. in the northeast you better be ready to buy a hard top and a soft top a soft top in the winter is a bad experience. I'd 100% recommend she drive the joop on the highway because my buddy has one and complains about how loud even the hard top is loud, and not super insulated / this also means it's not particularly warm.

my idea of a jeep... Buy an old one to bomb around in the summer with the top off and a tarp in teh back for if it rains. The problem is that old jeeps are generally expensive, broken, or will be broken or all 3.
why not just get a Miata for the summer and then some kind of reasonable vehicle instead of a malcrawling bugmobile?

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 16:18 on May 20, 2021

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

AmbassadorofSodomy posted:

When you get your replacement parts, (tie rods) look to see if they come with cotter pins. Get a few handfuls of them in whatever size. You'll probably drop a few and if not they'll come in handy for other random poo poo.
You might be able to borrow the inner tie rod socket, from a parts store, but maybe not. If not you'll pretty much need that for the inners.
Are you the goon with the S10 thats in Sweden or Denmark or somewhere around there?


I haven't worked on drum brakes in years but if you don't have them, get a set of "drum brake tools". The big weird looking pliers thing, the spring tool and the adjusting tool. You *can* get by without any of that poo poo, but it does make things easier.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/brake-service-tools/category/330-010-025-030 <------ Second and third rows in this link.

Take a picture of your drum brakes before you start.
I've seen some drum brakes that only have two springs and are super simple others have some pretty weird set ups so it'll help to take a pic as soon as you take the drum off and see where everything is. Worst case scenario, is the opposite side is a mirror image.

The adjuster is probably seized so take a wire wheel to it. Inside, try to get a wire tube brush that fits inside, chuck that poo poo up in a drill and brush the inside part of it.
I've never had any luck using anti seize on that part. YMMV but I've only ever had luck using actual brake lube on the adjuster threads. Some may argue different on that point, but thats just my experience.

While you're at it, if you can get a "hardware kit" for it, get it. They usually have new springs, retainers and little random poo poo like that. Sometimes these kits have a few extra things in them because they'll fit multiple vehicles so if you have some random spring or clip left over don't panic.

Fake edit: You already mentioned the new hardware........


PainterofCrap posted:

I love this thing. Hardly ever use the pickle fork any more. Even easier if you have a rattle gun.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Yup that's me. Thanks for the recommendations. I'll get the tools (I think most can be bought locally) and extra pins (wouldn't have thought to get those!). Hopefully it goes easily.

Empress Brosephine
Mar 31, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

tater_salad posted:

sadly this is where Joops really stand out on their own. Here's the thing though. in the northeast you better be ready to buy a hard top and a soft top a soft top in the winter is a bad experience. I'd 100% recommend she drive the joop on the highway because my buddy has one and complains about how loud even the hard top is loud, and not super insulated / this also means it's not particularly warm.

my idea of a jeep... Buy an old one to bomb around in the summer with the top off and a tarp in teh back for if it rains. The problem is that old jeeps are generally expensive, broken, or will be broken or all 3.
why not just get a Miata for the summer and then some kind of reasonable vehicle instead of a malcrawling bugmobile?

thanks for this reply; yeah I fully expected to have to buy both tops lol. She drove a rented jeep for about 4 horus and fell in love with it which is what spurred this; I wish she hated it!!!

The used one is a good idea though, and getting a Miata...Hmmm..

Thanks

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

pokeyman posted:

Thanks y'all. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't fork over $500 on the spot if a genie appeared before me on a frozen icy day and offered to magically have moved the car into the building, but it's not gonna be me facing that choice so it's a fair point.

Wonder how much the landlord would enjoy it if I only paid for parking in the winter months. Make it cheaper and I'll pay year-round! (There's about one spot per apartment and it's not at all full, feels like they're just gouging on the fee.)


Hadn't thought about insurance, that's a good idea!

Honestly, to me, $80/mo is worth it to know you have a place to park the car every night and to know where that place is going to be.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Charles posted:

Pretty sure I know more than the service advisor I just interacted with. I definitely can read better.

"Costumer states car mak vrom nois, pleas chek"

pokeyman posted:

I don't know anything about cars and have never owned one. My partner got a new job and needs a car to commute, so I find myself wondering about things for the first time with no idea of where to start looking for answers. Today's dosage:

Our building has underground parking for $80/month. There's plenty of convenient street parking, and while I'm not worried about people breaking or stealing things, I'm not sure how worried to be about Nova Scotia weather. It rains, it snows, the daily low is below freezing for four months of the year (though it rarely hits -20C/~0F).

Am I likely to avoid $960/year of excess maintenance or upkeep on a new non-hybrid compact (probably an Elantra) by keeping it inside? My guess is no, but I can be unhelpfully cheap, so I thought I'd ask!

I pay $100/month for a private garage, with a reserved parking space in front of it. It's under my apartment - I still have to go outside to get to it, but it beats searching for parking for 15 minutes when I get home.

It's very much worth it to not deal with trying to find parking (and in my case it also means I can work on my car without getting yelled at as much). And in your case, not having to dig the car out or break the ice encapsulating your car in the winter. We don't get snow much, but when we do, we get hosed (see Winter Storm Uri)

You may also get an insurance discount.

Empress Brosephine
Mar 31, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
plus the snow will leave rust and ruin your undercoating. $80/mo is way worth it

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

That's from salt, and it's going to happen anywhere salt is used, unless you find a car wash with an underbody wash every time you drive on a salted road.

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



STR posted:

I pay $100/month for a private garage, with a reserved parking space in front of it. It's under my apartment - I still have to go outside to get to it, but it beats searching for parking for 15 minutes when I get home.

I reaaaalllly don't miss hunting for street parking, and moving for street cleaning. It did keep down on how often we'd run errands using the car though, since the calculus became "is it worth giving up this parking spot, having to fight with an uber to park outside our building to unload, and then go find a spot" vs "oh, we'll i guess i'll just go get the car out of the garage. Still had to fight with an uber to unload because the garage was half a block away, but you take what you can get in central SF.

Having graduated from that to "garage that is in the house, but i have to go outside to get to" and now to "garage inside house that I can get to from an inside staircase" is a goddamn luxury. gently caress I can even park another car in the driveway, and also block my driveway as long is don't mind moving it every 2 weeks for cleaning.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Oh christ, the number of times people box me into the garage is downright stupid. Usually it's just Fedex or Amazon, but sometimes it's a repair company out here for hours. If it's a delivery truck, I can USUALLY get out, just takes a lot of back and forth and kissing of curbs.

I've had a few people towed when I couldn't figure out who it was - always someone who decided "this is overnight visitor parking" despite the towing signs from the most notorious towing company in town. I know about half of my building, they know what everyone drives. I'm usually able to track down who's boxed me in (and chew them out for making me late to work)... but not always. Usually one of my cars is in the driveway, but not always.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:30 on May 20, 2021

Lieutenant Dan
Oct 27, 2009

Weedlord Bonerhitler

Powershift posted:

Replace the battery. Ask Carmax, carvana , and Vroom what they will pay you for it. You might get a good no fuss offer on it.


AmbassadorofSodomy posted:

If you actually legally own that poo poo, then yes you should be allowed sell it.

You can replace the battery before selling it, or not. When you advertise it just put in the ad "battery dead", "needs battery" or some poo poo. Expect someone to demand that you drop the price by some unreasonable amount "cause its got a dead battery", regardless of how much you try to sell it for.

Can't physically drive? Or can't legally drive? Regardless, yes you should be able to sell any vehicle you own regardless of whether or not you are legally, or physically able to drive. You just can't drive it for (reason).

Sweet, thanks for replying! I'm gonna replace the battery and contact those guys/put it up for sale. I was a bit worried about selling the car without an updated registration but I do, in fact, own that poo poo, so hopefully it won't be an issue!

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

MrOnBicycle posted:

Yup that's me. Thanks for the recommendations. I'll get the tools (I think most can be bought locally) and extra pins (wouldn't have thought to get those!). Hopefully it goes easily.

No problem. I also remembered, I don't know about your S10 in particular, but when I mentioned that some drum brakes have weird/complicated setups, they were GM products.

Also, the brake adjusters are specific to a side, so don't get them mixed up.

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



STR posted:

Oh christ, the number of times people box me into the garage is downright stupid. Usually it's just Fedex or Amazon, but sometimes it's a repair company out here for hours. If it's a delivery truck, I can USUALLY get out, just takes a lot of back and forth and kissing of curbs.

I'm right across from a park where there's kids doing soccer practice, with like 4-6 practices going on in the afternoon and 2 simultaneous matches from like 9am to 5pm on saturdays. Some bike their kids to it, a lot of others drive and street-park. Out here in the more suburban parts of the city (SF, Sunset) there's just enough room between each house's curb cut to fit a compact and not block the driveway.

So, predictably you get soccer moms blocking driveways with their Subaru Ascents ("i need to take the kids to soccer but i can't be seen in a minivan"), sometimes by a few inches (whatever), sometimes half a carlength in, and then giving me attitude when I want to go to the store. I haven't had to call for a tow yet, neighbor said that SFMTA takes about 3 hours to show up and by then people have hosed off usually.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Empress Brosephine posted:

So i'm wondering if any of you know of any cool cars that would have reliability more akin to Toyota or Honda but I guess with the ability to be a convertible type thing such as a Jeep.

Literally your only other option for a new vehicle that will do some form of open-air offroading is the new Bronco (not the Sport), and good luck getting one of those at any price anytime soon.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

luminalflux posted:

I'm right across from a park where there's kids doing soccer practice, with like 4-6 practices going on in the afternoon and 2 simultaneous matches from like 9am to 5pm on saturdays. Some bike their kids to it, a lot of others drive and street-park. Out here in the more suburban parts of the city (SF, Sunset) there's just enough room between each house's curb cut to fit a compact and not block the driveway.

So, predictably you get soccer moms blocking driveways with their Subaru Ascents ("i need to take the kids to soccer but i can't be seen in a minivan"), sometimes by a few inches (whatever), sometimes half a carlength in, and then giving me attitude when I want to go to the store. I haven't had to call for a tow yet, neighbor said that SFMTA takes about 3 hours to show up and by then people have hosed off usually.

I'm in an apartment complex, and there's signs from J&J Towing EVERYWHERE. I can call in a tow and they'll show up.... eventually. It might be an hour, it took 4 hours one time, but they do show up, and they're loving ruthless. Once they're hooked up, the drop fee is whatever they feel like, cash only, and it goes up every 5 minutes if you have to go to an ATM.

They're very well known in Austin as being predatory. They also haven't asked me to even prove I own the parking space, they just show up and drag the car away, so long as there's no parking permit on it (if it has a sticker, they'll try to reach the on-call person for the property to get a contact # - once - more than any other tow company does, IMO).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:25 on May 21, 2021

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






J&J towing? Do they come and vaccinate you while they tow away your car?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

You're gonna wish they only vaccinated you by the time you're done getting your car back from them.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



I've got a beater ford ranger with a double din head unit. I'd like something slightly more advanced, with carplay or something. It has bluetooth, but it's basic and I need to use my phone to control everything.

Is there one of those standard AI recommended "this is a good basic head unit" that I could throw in there?

The sound system pretty much sucks, so it doesn't have to be crazy powerful or anything.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
There's a car audio thread.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908&pagenumber=82&perpage=40

Which reminds me that I have one from my old car that I should throw up on SA Mart for cheap....

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
I got a $1200 grant from school that has to be spent on "CoVid related expenses", which can include car repairs. I have a couple of things wrong with my car, any ideas on what I should prioritize? It's a 2006 Mazda 3 with the 2.0L

1. It seems to have some worn/broken suspension components. It pulls to the left and makes some noises when I hit bumps/occasionally when turning at low speeds.

2. Valves are making noise, nothing too bad but doesn't entirely go away when it's all warmed up. Took it to my mechanic, he said he thinks it's the lifters and that it would be $1000+ to fix it (and that I probably shouldn't bother at this point).

3. Transmission feels very worn, and third gear in particular has a bad syncro, so it grinds going in. It's just recently gotten worse, but it still has yet to pop out or refuse to go in or anything. Clutch seems like it's in good shape

Again I know $1200 won't cover everything, so any thoughts on what I should prioritize would be helpful.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

The suspension issues probably are the most concerning safety-wise. Depending on how long theyve been going on and the extent of the alignment issues, you may also need a new set of tires.

If youre inclined, you might be able to save some money by repairing what they find wrong. Youd still need their assistance for tires and alignment of course.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, of those three I'd prioritize suspension by far. That's an immediate-level problem with safety implications.

The MZR engines love to tick and rattle as they get old but unless it's stumbling so bad that it falls on its face, I'd ignore that. I'd also question it being the lifters and not the timing chain.

Transmission would probably be my second priority after the suspension, but that's also a scenario where it's likely going to be cheaper/easier to get a good used transmission out of a yard instead of rebuilding the one you have.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






For the ticking I would do an engine oil flush and then fill it up with oil one step up in weight.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Is there a cheap, safe way to get under a car at home?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

NotNut posted:

Is there a cheap, safe way to get under a car at home?
RhinoRamps (or similar products) are the cheapest, easiest, safe way to get under one end of a car at home. Next up / if you need to get under the whole car (as opposed to just the front or rear) is a jack and jackstands.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

NotNut posted:

Is there a cheap, safe way to get under a car at home?

Just kinda shimmy under there.

For real: Ramps are cheap and safe. You drive one end of the car up the ramp. Stop, park, parking brake, chock the wheels, and you're good. The only limitation is you can't remove the wheels.

A jack and a pair of jack stands is also a good way to get under the car. Find a good jacking point and a solid place to put the stands.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

NotNut posted:

Is there a cheap, safe way to get under a car at home?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

If you're in SEMI and you want a pair of Rhino ramps or a perfectly adequate Harbor Freight jack, I'm moving out of A2 and don't want to pay the movers to bring them to Boston so they can sit in the storage space under the stairs. Show up and give me like ten bucks and it's all yours. If you want me to bring them to you, within about an hour's drive, 20 bucks.

Small chance this might be relevant if you're anywhere near Ann Arbor??

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Is it possible to fix up a car's interior? Looking at one right now and that's a sticking point. It's got falling headliner fabric, cracked plastic and fabric peeling off the door.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


NotNut posted:

Is it possible to fix up a car's interior? Looking at one right now and that's a sticking point. It's got falling headliner fabric, cracked plastic and fabric peeling off the door.

Absolutely. Headliner adhesive will fix the headliner and peeling fabrics. A hot stapler can fix the cracked plastics.

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tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

tactlessbastard posted:

It was a good day today



So it's been raining a lot lately and the trunk is getting water in it. The seals all appear to be in good shape, and there's no debris accumulated, any idea what's going on? I can get daylight pictures tomorrow, I just got off work where she sat 12 hours in a light rain.

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