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jesus WEP posted:no edge highlighting? You cheated not only the model, but yourself. You didn't grow. You didn't improve. You took a shortcut and gained nothing. You experienced a hollow victory. Nothing was risked and nothing was gained. It's sad that you don't know the difference. 
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May 26, 2021 18:55
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jesus WEP posted:drucchi violet in the really shadowy part of golds is an underrated technique This is extremely true.
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May 26, 2021 18:56
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Verisimilidude posted:A lot of people are asking so here's a guide for painting these guys. I may film a video as well showing the process from start to finish, but we'll see. I am still new to this, but I have a lot of difficulty knowing what mistakes I can leave because they will be hidden by other steps and which I need to fix so I spend a lot of time on my models going back and forth between colors to fix when things get messy. It seems it takes me like 4-5 hours per model to get a result that isn't as good as yours.
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May 26, 2021 19:47
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Nunes posted:I am still new to this, but I have a lot of difficulty knowing what mistakes I can leave because they will be hidden by other steps and which I need to fix so I spend a lot of time on my models going back and forth between colors to fix when things get messy. It seems it takes me like 4-5 hours per model to get a result that isn't as good as yours.
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May 26, 2021 20:11
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Got almost the whole gang assembled: Also bought paint:  Hopefully sorting out who wants to paint what isn't too hard, and my selection of colors works.
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May 26, 2021 20:16
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To join the Contrast Paint talk. If you still don't know Juan Hidalgo, be sure to check him out. His Heavy Contrast series on youtube is jaw-dropping. I mean:  I use a lot of contrasts as washes, glazes and filters and sometimes as they are intended! I got a bunch and always planning more.
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May 26, 2021 20:31
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Verisimilidude posted:
This looks incredible 🤩
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May 26, 2021 20:31
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Speaking of contrast I used an oil wash yesterday for the first time over contrast paint on my Ulfenwatch ala this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBc0ZuaYIPM I don't have any pictures but the results are fantastic. I'm a pretty good painter using the old base, wash layer method but I can't see myself going back. It's honestly similar if not better results compared to hours of careful layering and it was so much more fun.
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May 26, 2021 20:46
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Cross-posting from the MCP thread.
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May 26, 2021 21:01
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Nunes posted:I am still new to this, but I have a lot of difficulty knowing what mistakes I can leave because they will be hidden by other steps and which I need to fix so I spend a lot of time on my models going back and forth between colors to fix when things get messy. It seems it takes me like 4-5 hours per model to get a result that isn't as good as yours. There is definitely a "feel" to painting that only comes with time and practice. You'll start to intuit how a paint will act and how thin or thick it needs to be. You'll notice mistakes before they arise and learn techniques on mitigating or fixing them. It's literally a "feeling" that's hard to describe, but it always comes naturally over time. The biggest thing for me in this process is getting organized and making sure to block in a specific color on every model everywhere it needs to be before moving on to the next color. Here's a simple practice exercise you can do for yourself. If you have 3 similar models that will be painted in a very similar way, figure out what paints you're going to use ahead of time, line the paints up in front of you, and after priming go one paint at a time on each model. Try to make it as simple as possible, so for example if you're painting 3 goblins, paint all the green skin, then all the black belts, then all the brown cloth, then all the metal. Try to keep an eye out for these individual parts on each model so they don't get missed. It's a very simple exercise, you could do it with even 2 models or just 1 if it's all you have. The difficulty comes in making sure every part of a model is blocked in correctly. If it helps, you can even do individual pieces rather than entire colors as you go down the line. So for instance I paint the masks, belts, straps and leg-warmers on these guys Skeleton Horde. But I'll paint each mask first, then paint everyone's straps, then everyone's belts, then everyone's leg-warmers. It speeds up the process and that way I'm sure I don't miss a Skeleton Horde-colored piece along the way. Also, don't go fast for the sake of going fast. Go as slowly as it'll take you to block in the colors cleanly. This way you're minimizing the amount of time you spend fixing mistakes. Speed will come naturally as you get a better feel for how paints move and react. Going back and forth with paints and fixing past mistakes ends up taking a lot of time at the end of the day, same goes for futzing around with what colors to use or looking through your rack of paints to find a specific color. Organizing yourself ahead of time can really enhance the process because you'll waste less time.
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May 26, 2021 21:08
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Verisimilidude posted:The biggest thing for me in this process is getting organized and making sure to block in a specific color on every model everywhere it needs to be before moving on to the next color. Getting over the feeling that I had to be organised and make sure each step was fully completed before moving on was a big part of enjoying painting more, and being more productive. I used to worry about forgetting recipes and making sure every part was done exactly the same, when none of that matters.
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May 26, 2021 21:38
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The hate for contrast is stupid, it's a tool like anything else. I've seen similar grumblings about washes and it being "liquid talent" and other nonsense. What it comes down to is probably the way people learn to paint through the layering method, and the fact that some people are taught to wash an entire model regardless of whether or not it makes sense. Fortunately I think most people will emphasize that washes are good, but need to be used a bit more selectively. I mean as far as I use them, I could do without them and carefully shade everything and layer paint on top and get a similar result but washest are a hell of a lot faster. Contrast paints, depending on how you use them, can be power glazes that save you time throwing down 30 layers of glaze to get the right contrast. Again, depending on how you use them. Marco Frisoni has used some in various speed painting and his painting "en grisaille" video that look fantastic, in conjunction with other tools. I really like underpainting and glazing and so for some things contrasts work great. I know I'm preaching to the choir about all this but I'm glad I didn't come into the hobby at a time where there's tons of information on how to use all the different kinds of paint available to you effectively, rather than anyone saying that certain things are for scrubs because it's helped me a lot as a painter. Using some acrylic inks and contrast medium has been a really fun experiment for me. The most exciting development for me recently is that I'm getting pretty good at getting my paints to the right dillution on my wet palette with minimum fuss. Only way I got to this point is sitting down and painting every day, even if it's only for 15 minutes. Dreylad fucked around with this message at 22:02 on May 26, 2021 |
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May 26, 2021 21:56
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Overusing washes makes everything look like poop, which is usually bad unless you're painting Death Guard then it's good I like Marco's videos a lot because he brings in all kinds of techniques and tools from outside the hobby. I don't know if he's the one who started it but I credit him with the recent popularity of stuff like spraying inks, using oil washes on minis and a bunch of other stuff that has really upended the traditional base-layer method.
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May 26, 2021 22:08
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jesus WEP posted:sorry if this sounds like dumb obvious advice but you just need to paint a shitload of minis and get a feel for this yourself It probably doesn't get said enough, I have noticed a huge jump from mini 1 to 5 even. I do pick up lessons from each project.
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May 26, 2021 22:10
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sassassin posted:Getting over the feeling that I had to be organised and make sure each step was fully completed before moving on was a big part of enjoying painting more, and being more productive. I used to worry about forgetting recipes and making sure every part was done exactly the same, when none of that matters. I feel the same way when I'm painting one-off models or characters. It's also what I love about painting with CMYK, where you can just make your own colors on the fly and you don't really have to worry about too much. However if your goal is to paint a lot in a small amount of time, then organization is a very helpful tool.
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May 26, 2021 22:11
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Maigius posted:Got almost the whole gang assembled: You're probably already doing it, but just in case - make sure to prime those before you paint. Contrast does not like bare Bonesium at all.
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May 26, 2021 22:38
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Contrasts: Tools for babies. I'm cheating myself. (Not actually 100% contrasts, as I do some wash-and-drybrush preshading and the NMM finish is acrylic over contrast, but still, finished these guys over like 2-3 days. Attitudes like that grind my gears.)
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May 26, 2021 22:49
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Preshading/undershading is probably the thing missing from some contrast tutorials. I can understand why given that they've been marketed towards beginners as a way to combine shading and base coating in one, but preshading really elevate the whole thing, especially once you start playing with not just black/grey/white preshades but different hues of colour to influence the final result.
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May 27, 2021 00:07
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Don't give GW ideas, they'll start telling you to buy 8 different spray primer colours per army
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May 27, 2021 00:36
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Eej posted:Don't give GW ideas, they'll start telling you to buy 8 different spray primer colours per army
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May 27, 2021 00:52
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Giant Ethicist posted:Contrasts: Tools for babies. I'm cheating myself. these are beautiful
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May 27, 2021 01:09
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Verisimilidude posted:these are beautiful Fake edit: Re preshading - I've basically simplified my preshading to "splash them with Reikland Fleshtone or Agrax Earthshade and give them a real heavy drybrush in white" and even that makes all the difference.
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May 27, 2021 02:22
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Zark the Damned posted:You're probably already doing it, but just in case - make sure to prime those before you paint. Contrast does not like bare Bonesium at all. I did not. Any recommendations for primer? Due to space, I'll be using a brush instead of spray paint.
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May 27, 2021 03:26
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For contrast, any white primer is fine. Brush-on is even preferred for Bones, they react to some rattlecans (it makes the PVC melt).
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May 27, 2021 03:33
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Maigius posted:Got almost the whole gang assembled: Ok, so here's a quick and dirty 'wings' tutorial for contrast paints. We're going to be using Skeleton Horde and Wyldwood.  And when I say 'quick and dirty' I mean it, I spent five minutes painting this Peryton (also from Reaper). First things first, paint a couple of strips of skeleton horde along the underside of the flight feathers. You can look at real eagles for inspiration on what sort of patterns to make with this and whether or not to do the feather tips brown! There're some really interesting looking eagles out there!  Next, we're going to paint the rest of the feathers with pure Wyldwood. For the Peryton, I also painted its skin a 50/50 mix of Wyldwood and Skeleton Horde. For your big bird that's probably not going to be needed, but contrast paints mix really well. You can also paint them over one another to great effect.  Here's a quick 'glamor shot' next to something else I saw in your mini list (painted with a different technique). Is there some clean-up to do? Sure, but for five minutes work I'm not going to argue with the results. The Peryton is tiny, contrast paints look even better on the big minis that have deeper details. 
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May 27, 2021 04:45
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gently caress those are some good wings. I think you finally convinced me to get skeleton borde. The few contrast colors I've bought have been very inconsistent on how much I like them. The white I bought is perfection, but not sure. Fan of the gryoh charger grey and black templar I bought
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May 27, 2021 06:06
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I painted my first model ever yesterday and it looks godawful, as might be expected. I used a mixture of Vallejo Model Color metallics, which seem really nice, and Reaper Master Series flat colors, which, uhh, don't. Granted that's probably my lack of talent speaking, but there definitely seemed to be a difference in the ease of use of the two brands in my totally inexperienced eyes. The Vallejo paint seemed to have solid coverage with only one coat over the primer, whereas the Reaper paint required multiple coats and still didn't look clean. From reading the original posts in this thread, Citadel seems to be the best paints but in the worst jars, is that still true? The recent posts about contrast paints seem interesting, but I have no idea what makes contrast paint different than regular.
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May 27, 2021 15:02
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Kylaer posted:I painted my first model ever yesterday and it looks godawful, as might be expected.
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May 27, 2021 15:07
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Primed with black gesso (can't use spraypaint in my apartment), painted Reaper white  Also bits in Vallejo brass, gunmetal grey, and gunmetal blue, all of which looked good, or at least good relative to the white.
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May 27, 2021 15:11
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yeah white over black isn’t a problem you’re gonna solve with a different brand of paint
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May 27, 2021 15:12
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Kylaer posted:I painted my first model ever yesterday and it looks godawful, as might be expected. I used a mixture of Vallejo Model Color metallics, which seem really nice, and Reaper Master Series flat colors, which, uhh, don't. Granted that's probably my lack of talent speaking, but there definitely seemed to be a difference in the ease of use of the two brands in my totally inexperienced eyes. The Vallejo paint seemed to have solid coverage with only one coat over the primer, whereas the Reaper paint required multiple coats and still didn't look clean. Everyone likes different brands for different reasons. I like Citadel well enough, but they are more expensive than other paints, they come out thick so you always have to thin them, and they’re in lovely pots. I know plenty of people on here love Vallejo, so you could always look into them. I’ve also had good experiences with P3 paints, although those are harder to come by in shops; you’d likely need to buy them direct from Privateer Press. The best description of Contrast paints that I’ve seen is they’re sort of like a base coat and wash in one. They’re thinner than “normal” paints, and are made to pool a little, so that they dry darker in recesses and lighter at high points on a surface. That means it gives you a natural gradation of color from dark to light in a single coat. You can see results on the past two pages of what Contrast can do if you get good with it and work with its properties/touch it up. Results can be fantastic in very little time, you just have to know what you’re doing!
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May 27, 2021 15:13
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in my experience contrasts are super easy to put on a highly textured surface - fur is a great example. they’re actually pretty tricky to paint onto a flat surface like space marine armour or something. you need to have the technique to put one even layer across the whole flat surface - because they’re a bit transparent, having patches of thicker and thinner layers gives a horrible patchy finish that’s almost impossible to fix without covering it up and starting again E: so for a beginner, going All In on contrasts would be a terrible move imo
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May 27, 2021 15:17
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jesus WEP posted:yeah white over black isn’t a problem you’re gonna solve with a different brand of paint Fair enough. I'll get some grey primer for the next go-around. TotalHell posted:Results can be fantastic in very little time, you just have to know what you’re doing! Welp  Maybe at a later point
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May 27, 2021 15:19
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I find I choose my paints based on what I can get locally. I was using primarily Vallejo but then the store carrying them closed. Now we have a GW store so I find myself using their paints more and more. Only one I really avoid is Army Painter, most of what I've tried from them has a similar consistency to runny cottage cheese. Not sure if it's bad luck on my part, how the store cared for them (maybe an unheated storage unit), or something else. Mostly because I can just go and pick up a color as needed. I'm in bum-gently caress nowhere Midwest, so beggars can't be choosers fully applies for local options. And we're a frozen wasteland for 8 months out of the year so I don't like planning on ordering online since it would likely sit outside in 10°F for hours.
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May 27, 2021 15:39
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I got an army painter boxed set last Christmas, a couple of the paints are good but overall the coverage and consistency is sub-par across the board.
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May 27, 2021 15:56
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I finally got around to painting up some of the kharadrons I've had lying around for several years. I did them real grimy and rusty, trying to make the eerie green of the balloon power the only 'clean' part. But why 'o why would the proud kharadron overlords EVER be caught grimey and rusty? I'm glad you asked! It's because they've been enslaved and undeadified by my WIP kitbashed ghostly ironclad! The terrible flying Marienburger, aka, Shadewraith, aka Stormbreaker aka Vangheists horrible ghost ship. Not even the old world dying could keep them from roaming the aether looking for souls to enslave.    The captains hat looks weird in the picture for some reason. The angle of the camera makes it look odd I think.
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May 27, 2021 16:34
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Revelation 2-13 posted:It's because they've been enslaved and undeadified by my WIP kitbashed ghostly ironclad! The terrible flying Marienburger, aka, Shadewraith, aka Stormbreaker aka Vangheists horrible ghost ship. Not even the old world dying could keep them from roaming the aether looking for souls to enslave. This is awesome. Where are the crew from? well, their bodies I mean.
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May 27, 2021 17:10
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PoptartsNinja posted:Really impressive paint work. Thanks for all this. My fiance is nervous about getting all this done in time. Having a guide like this is at least a place to start.
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May 27, 2021 17:34
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:This is awesome. Where are the crew from? well, their bodies I mean. Thanks, I'm still working on it. Posing the dudes and adding more detail and such. The biggest problem was fitting the two sides of the gloomtide wreck together in a way that matched the kharadron ironclad in size. Also adding the wooden planks, so it's a little less of a full wreck and more of a decayed ship. It's perrys european mercenaries (https://www.perry-miniatures.com/product/wr20-plastic-mercenaries-european-infantry-1450-1500/) It's a very cool kit for the price (like same price as GW four times the models). Plastic is a lot softer than GW, but the detail is quite good. They're a little slimmer than empire state troops/freeguild guard, but similar height. The skulls are citadel skulls and the fancy hat is cut off one of the head options from the helblaster volley gun kit.
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May 27, 2021 18:13
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Kylaer posted:Welp Please don’t let the way I phrased that discourage you! You won’t know what you’re doing until you do it a lot; this is like any other skill. Contrast paints can get you decent results even as a total newbie (GW advertised them as being a quick solution for a reason), just don’t expect to get the kind of results you’re seeing in this thread right out of the gate. But that’s just true in general, no matter what paints or tools you’re using! Keep practicing and your stuff will keep getting better.
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May 27, 2021 19:31
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