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dissss posted:This can happen when the SD card gets corrupted. I think you could also have fixed it by backing up the old SD card then writing the backup to a new one or just removing the card entirely and living without nav. Well this would have been useful to know 18 months ago  I googled the poo poo out of this issue but came up blank. I guess the old one was bad because the nav would sometimes (very rarely, I think it did it twice) freeze up and brick the whole screen until I turned off the car, too.
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Apr 26, 2021 08:32
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eddiewalker posted:Hold it up to the light and spin it until you can see the “bump” of the actual oil level? I can get a pretty easy read off the edge. I'm not sure what you're doing then. Took a few photos from 3 separate pulls. 5 minutes after engine shutoff on the first pull with a stopwatch to match manual recommendation, subsequent pulls each within a minute, wiped clean & dry between pull and reinsert. Every time I get the same result. No leaks underneath. No burn-off of any noticeable degree. Reads the same whether it's under, the right amount is added, or it's overfilled. Hell, even get the right amount of oil back out when it's drained. This is within 75 miles of the last oil change where I made sure the right amount was added. Every time it's this translucent even coat of oil with no visible "line", without fail. This thing has been in and out of dealerships plenty, last change was with the only reputable one anywhere near me. At a loss.
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Apr 27, 2021 00:25
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Are you parked up an incline or level ground? If you hold the dip stick vertically, and the rotate it around its axis until you are looking at the edge of the stick, can you see a level on the dipstick? As an example: code:code:MetaJew fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 21:46
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MetaJew posted:Are you parked up an incline or level ground? As close to level as it gets for those pulls (maybe couple degrees tops from perfectly level - all the roads and parking lots here are hosed), have also done pulls on known "perfectly" level ground to the same results. There's no visible level at any point on the dip stick at any angle through the full 360 rotation, just a thin even coating that quickly pools on the tip (and drips off, you can see the drips in the background) from whatever level it previously was at. The only times I've ever gotten a visibly defined level was checking cold overnight, but my home parking space is on a steep enough incline I can't do that now. Dealer mechanics have pulled the same after oil changes, called it normal and waved it off. Considering how much they've tried getting out of doing warranty-required service, though, I don't trust that in the slightest.
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Apr 28, 2021 22:06
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SkyeAuroline posted:As close to level as it gets for those pulls (maybe couple degrees tops from perfectly level - all the roads and parking lots here are hosed), have also done pulls on known "perfectly" level ground to the same results. There's no visible level at any point on the dip stick at any angle through the full 360 rotation, just a thin even coating that quickly pools on the tip (and drips off, you can see the drips in the background) from whatever level it previously was at. The only times I've ever gotten a visibly defined level was checking cold overnight, but my home parking space is on a steep enough incline I can't do that now. I don't know what to say then. Maybe your engine oil is a pretty light weight and at operating tempt the viscosity is super low. Just for kicks when you have a chance park the car, pull the dip stick, wipe it, dip, pull it again and take a photo for us at the perspective I tried to draw. You should see some residue at least from how high up the oil line was--- assuming you're not dragging it against the dip stick tube I guess. For my MS3 I've always found it odd that when it's cold the first time I pull the stick it will be dry or very low, but if I dip it again and pull it it will be at the expected level. I have no idea what physics allow for that unless it's something to do with a pressure imbalance between the dipstick tube and atmospheric pressure-- like the tube is slightly pressurized and pushing oil down until it normalized when I pull the stick? 
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Apr 29, 2021 08:05
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MetaJew posted:I don't know what to say then. Maybe your engine oil is a pretty light weight and at operating tempt the viscosity is super low. Just for kicks when you have a chance park the car, pull the dip stick, wipe it, dip, pull it again and take a photo for us at the perspective I tried to draw. You should see some residue at least from how high up the oil line was--- assuming you're not dragging it against the dip stick tube I guess. Tried to take a photo, with little luck on account of winds not dropping below 20 mph for days now and not having four hands to make a focused photo of a stationary stick happen. From your perspectives, though, the sides are completely flat with no "bulge" for any liquid sticking, besides the drip at the bottom that drips off fast; there's a thin layer there, and that layer reappears after every dip, but it's basically invisible from the side. But there's definitely fluid there, even both holes (high and low) refill with liquid when it's dried off and they're specifically completely dried... there's just no distinct level whatsoever. I'm rapidly reaching the conclusion Mazda dealerships suck at their jobs, including the "honoring the warranty" part that was a) the only reason I bought new b) the only reason I bought Mazda. Far from the first time I've taken it in and far from the first time I've done so with visible issues, but can't even catch issues with the service they're doing themselves. Moving "live in a place where a car is not required for any aspect of life" from #2 to #1 on my "where to get out of rural hell and go to" priorities. e: this is not "5 minutes after park", but considering I'm not going to be near level ground the rest of the week, pulled an hour and a half after that last check. Looks the same as when running - flat thin coat all the way up, plus a runny drop at the bottom that promptly started dripping off instead of sticking. The drop is basically the same color and opacity as the rest. 
SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 19:38 on May 1, 2021 |
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May 1, 2021 18:29
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Is there a specific name for the 18" wheels that the third gen GT models came with? Something to make searching for a used set easier. These ones:  Also, is there any way to fix the third gen weird throttle mapping? It is literally the only complaint I have with this car so far, otherwise everything has been great and the Carplay upgrade went super smoothly. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:54 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 19:52
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2008 MS3 getting a P0442/P0455 evap leak, anyone else figure this out? I swapped out my gas cap and the code came back... Hoping I don't have to do one of these ugh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4qBRFf2m7U https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8I1jXkV5QE air- fucked around with this message at 21:15 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 21:04
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air- posted:2008 MS3 getting a P0442/P0455 evap leak, anyone else figure this out? I swapped out my gas cap and the code came back... Oh that sucks. I hope you don't have to drop the gas tank.
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May 10, 2021 16:35
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PS, coming back around - oil issue was just "dealer way overfilled it and the oil they used happens to be pretty transparent to begin with". Got in with local dealer and got it resolved there. So the reason I couldn't get a clean level and was just getting thin oil way up past the dots was... there was thin oil way up past the dots. 
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May 10, 2021 16:49
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Mazda is making it real fuckin difficult to not splurge on a cx-30 turbo instead of buying a 2013 mazda3 grand touring with 10k miles. If I test drive that thing, I'm taking it home.
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May 12, 2021 19:35
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If it wasn't for the ridiculously massive fender caldings making the whole thing look like a stupid Fischer Price toy the soul red CX-30 would be the sexiest car in Mazda's current line up.
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May 15, 2021 04:42
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Fabulousity posted:If it wasn't for the ridiculously massive fender caldings making the whole thing look like a stupid Fischer Price toy the soul red CX-30 would be the sexiest car in Mazda's current line up. Can't be too hard to vinyl wrap or plastidip it. :V
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May 15, 2021 05:37
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Test drove a used(!!!) 2021 3 turbo premium plus today, felt really good. 1.5k miles on it, was a trade-in after an unexpected pregnancy (according to the sales guy lol) and the they quoted me 34k cash out the door. A sick deal but I can't justify that buy right now.
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May 20, 2021 22:32
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Picked up my shiny new mazda 3 G25 evolve at the start of April but wanted to give it a bit of time before I posted about it. Stepping out of a MY10 3 sportsmaxx its been a bit of a breath of fresh air cause the cabin and driving position is so much more comfortable than the old one. Only real complaints are the fuel needle doesn't always move in a linear fashion and on one tank it didn't move for the first 350Km's but seems to be ok now and the other is with the auto box it doesn't seem to know exactly which gear to sit in when doing 80 km/h. It seems to pick a higher gear every time and is a little sluggish to pick up when you want to overtake slower traffic which wouldn't be a massive deal expect that 50% of my commute to work is spent at 80 km/h and the trip home is uphill the whole way.
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May 24, 2021 10:44
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Gorman Thomas posted:Test drove a used(!!!) 2021 3 turbo premium plus today, felt really good. 1.5k miles on it, was a trade-in after an unexpected pregnancy (according to the sales guy lol) and the they quoted me 34k cash out the door. A sick deal but I can't justify that buy right now. Bought it after they dropped the sticker down to 29k. Such a sick vehicle coming from a 2013 3 sedan sport. Wish I had it during the lockdown as traffic has just about returned to normal here in Los Angeles. Can't wait to take it on the road this winter.
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May 30, 2021 03:13
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At 34k I was so-so on that deal but 29k is a great price
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May 30, 2021 07:00
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regulargonzalez posted:At 34k I was so-so on that deal but 29k is a great price Yeah drat. Congratulations.
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May 30, 2021 15:04
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Fabulousity posted:If it wasn't for the ridiculously massive fender caldings making the whole thing look like a stupid Fischer Price toy the soul red CX-30 would be the sexiest car in Mazda's current line up. 100% and I don't understand why that type of exterior treatment is becoming more and more prevalent on USDM cars. It's like design teams look at their vehicles and are like, "No, no. It doesn't look enough like the benchmark of automotive design: a 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche."
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May 30, 2021 16:14
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Does anyone know the spec for the 3 turbo tie-downs? I'm trying to get a front plate kit but all the ones I found have the wrong thread pitch. It seems like the turbo and 2/2.5 are different.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:23
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MetaJew posted:I put in my 09 and got a quote of ~$6500. MS3s have sold on Cars and Bids for ~$8,xxx so if you can handle the people in teh comments trying to tank your sale you could possibly get more money selling it to the kind of people that admire Doug Demuro. LMAO: So Shift is now offering $8200 for my 09 MS3. My fiance has a 2016 TTS and shift is offering more than she paid for it, two years ago-- $32,000. She just put in an order for a Model Y so we're hoping that the Shift bubble doesn't pop by the time we get close enough to Y deliver that we can sell the TTS to them. Tesla offered only $25,xxx and Carvana was maybe in the $26,xxx. I'd say leasing the TTS for 2 years or so for "free" wasn't a bad deal. She says I now have to buy a "fun"/impractical car. So I may be selling the MS3 and looking for something stupid like a Miata, or if I can convince her-- just how bad could a Lotus 7 clone be?
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Jun 11, 2021 07:42
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Miata is always the answer The ND2 is really good, it's even quick-ish 
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Jun 11, 2021 08:51
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gently caress me I should have held out for longer before selling my 3! Also Miata is never the wrong answer. I’m still very seriously thinking about abandoning my wagon aspirations and getting a ‘cheap’ NA/NB
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Jun 11, 2021 15:56
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So this conversation made me look, and somehow my 2016 3 is worth ~Ł1k more than I paid for it 2 years ago.  Not that I have any intention of selling or trading up right now, it’s the right car for my needs and really nice, but, that’s weird to me.
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Jun 11, 2021 16:29
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Going cross country with my speed3 because I am a fool, any interest in my escapades? What image hosting do people use these days, its been at least half a decade since I effort posted, But Id like to post some scenic shots of my Mazda being places it shouldnt. Also, I've fixed most every noise it makes, except one. when turning hard, especially to the left it will make a pop noise, then do it again once the left isnt loaded anymore. Sometimes it travels left to right, the first pop being on the left and the second one a moment later on the right. I think it mayyyy have started when I swapped in a set of used springs to replace my broken one in the rear, but Ive checked and double checked, even completely pulled them and reinstalled to no avail. I think I did rear endlinks that day as well.
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Jun 18, 2021 15:17
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Check engine light just came on and my inspection is due this month. What are the odds that it's the clogged/stuck EGR valve again? If I get the code read and cleared is there some amount of miles or running time I have to wait before I take it in for an inspection? So that it will pass and then I can worry about cleaning out the EGR pipe and valve later?
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Jun 22, 2021 21:29
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Depends where you live if you can have a monitor in a not ready state. In California I think just the EVAP system can be not ready.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:43
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I'm in Texas. Last time I had the stuck EGR code, I think I cleared it and it didn't come back for a month or two, at which point I cleaned out the EGR valve and tube.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:49
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From searching it appears Texas will allow one monitor not ready.
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Jun 22, 2021 22:17
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Git the code read. P0442 evap emissions. Maybe it was just a loose duel cap or I need a new fuel cap? The auto parts guy cleared the code for me. Do I have to drive a specified number of miles or time before whatever register for the CEL resets? ELI5 because I don't really understand.
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Jun 23, 2021 06:44
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Dunno about that specific code, maybe if IOC or someone else sees this they can comment. But with regards to the cleared code, what the smog tech will see is the EVAP system is "not ready". There is a specific driving cycle to do to get it satisfied (if you didn't fix the issue, the error will come back though). If my web searching is correct, you can pass with one system "not ready" in Texas so you should be okay. If by some chance it's a PZEV vehicle it may still have a 15 year / 150,000 mile warranty on that system, but if it was originally sold in Texas, then not likely.
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Jun 23, 2021 07:48
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MetaJew posted:Git the code read. P0442 evap emissions. Try and get your inspection done asap while the light is cleared I had that same code if you want to scroll back a few pages, had a buddy with an AP clear it and it came back a week later Did a smoke test and I'm replacing this plastic ring on the fuel tank this weekend
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Jun 23, 2021 12:24
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MetaJew posted:
When codes are cleared out from the ECU it puts all of the EVAP/Emissions Monitors to a "Not Ready" state. Meaning the car doesn't have enough information to determine if these systems are working properly. If you took the car to an inspector right now, you would likely fail as most or all of the monitors would be in a "Not Ready" sate. To get the monitors back to the ready state you'll need to perform "drive cycles" on the car, and drive cycles is just a fancy way to say you need to drive the car. Typically to perform a full drive cycle you'll want to start with the engine cold, drive normally until the engine gets up to operating temperature, and once you're done driving, allow the engine to cool off completely before starting again. For most cars that procedure will complete a full drive cycle. Every car is different in terms of how many drive cycles are required to get all of the monitors back to the ready state. For example, on my E46 BMW I can get all of the monitors back to ready in a single drive cycle but it takes roughly 50-60 miles of highway driving and 10-15 miles of slow speed driving. When I used to own a Honda Accord that thing took a minimum of two drive cycles before all of the monitors would go back to a ready state. TLDR: Drive you car.
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Jun 23, 2021 15:01
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In general Mazda but not MX-5 but sort of rotary news: Mazda is pausing it's plans to use small rotary engines to drive generators as range extenders in electric vehicles. Here's Jalopnik's summary of a summary because the source is pay walled: Jalopnik posted:Maybe it was just too good to be true, too wonderful to be believed. The Mazda MX-30 rotary range extender has gotten pushed further back, as Automotive News reports: In other news the Skyactiv inline 6 appears to be real and will be an option in the upcoming CX-5 refresh. Or maybe it'll be CX-50? Who knows I guess they're in the middle of renaming everything. No mention of the older rumors that Lexus would be using the engine in some cars. Also not sure about the related rumors of a future RWD Mazda 6 using the engine since the sedan seems to be facing the chopping block because everyone is buying CUVs. Also if you own a first generation Mazda 3 the steering wheel emblem could shank you upon airbag deployment so a recall is being done: quote:The 2004-2007 Mazda3 sedan and hatchback are recalled due to concerns that airbag deployment could cause the steering wheel logo emblem to shatter, spraying the driver with harmful fragments. The action comes after eight incidents have been documented outside the U.S. There are two lawsuits in the U.S. alleging related injury. If someone gets in a wreck and survives with a Mazda emblem embedded in their forehead like a Vision-esque infinity stone then Mazda should issue them new cars for life every 5 years as a settlement. Also is Shift.com legit? Their initial offer on my 2014 3 would pay for almost 45% of a new 3 turbo 
Fabulousity fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jul 14, 2021 |
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Jul 13, 2021 23:51
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If any of you guys still own your MS3, the Damond passenger motor mount with their new, softer "street" bushing substantially improved my NVH from the original stiffer "race" bushing they shipped them with. I still need to replace the bushings in the transmission mount-- but I suspect it will drastically reduce the cabin noise. The NVH was driving me crazy and I was considering switching back to my OEM mounts-- but I think I must've thrown them out after they sat in my garage for two+ years. Fortunately these replacement bushings were only $25 each.
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Jul 15, 2021 18:17
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Does the hvac mode 'cable' eventually stretch in the second gen 3 or something? I picked up a 2011 3 2.5 sedan cheap for my girlfriend and the AC works great as long as you don't mess with the blower mode dial. Turning it back face after moving it splits the flow out the face/feet and I need to move the actuator back towards the rear of the car to get it to blow face only, and it will stay there until the dial is moved. It doesn't look like the cable has slipped or anything. 
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Jul 18, 2021 21:30
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Fabulousity posted:In other news the Skyactiv inline 6 appears to be real and will be an option in the upcoming CX-5 refresh. Or maybe it'll be CX-50? Who knows I guess they're in the middle of renaming everything. May get a Toyota rav4 at this rate Test drove a few but nothing quite gave me the right knee room I wanted with the console corner in the way. Also interested in Tesla Y bit I don't know where I can sit in one.
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Jul 19, 2021 03:25
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Arrange a test drive at your nearest Tesla showroom (ie, closest city > 500,000 people)
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Jul 19, 2021 04:56
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Skyactiv-X is 48mpg extra urban ADR 81/02 which is not so demanding as the EPA test. Using the same regime the normal 2.5 AT is 43.5mpg so not a huge difference. There is more of a difference around town (36.2 vs 27.5mpg but at the cost of needing premium fuel and losing power and torque compared to the 2.5. I doubt it'll ever get released for the US market.
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Jul 19, 2021 05:06
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 It makes a hell of a noise when your Speed6's transfer case goes out. Like a rock tumbler, or a shaved ice machine. It's a heavy bih, too.
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Jul 19, 2021 22:16
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