|
Has anybody tried/does anyone know if it's possible/can anyone recommend a broker for the following scenario? I live in Ontario. I don't currently own a bike or have motorcycle insurance. Once a year I fly to Alberta and rent a bike for a few days, and the rental place offers their own insurance which I take. For a few days, this isn't too bad. This summer though, I'm thinking of getting a bike for a few weeks to ride from Calgary to Victoria and possibly back. Rental prices get uneconomical for that amount of time, so I'm considering buying a bike and selling to a friend (or publicly) when I'm done. Has anyone heard of trip insurance in this country? Am I going to have to get an Ontario policy as a resident of this province, or can I get an Alberta policy as a non-resident? I think Alberta insurance is like America levels of cheap, so I might have to get a year policy and just cancel after a couple of weeks, which is fine, but I don't want to get boned with paying $2000 for an Ontario policy for a 2 week rental. I'm going to see if I can explain this to a couple of brokers to see what they recommend, but I was wondering if anyone here had any advice.
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 16:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 08:31 |
|
|
Finger Prince posted:Am I going to have to get an Ontario policy as a resident of this province, That's it. If you're buying a bike here, you'll need to register it and get plates and insurance here.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 16:20
|
|
|
I don't know if this applies, but here I could insure it and only pay for days used because unregistering the bike cancels insurance regardless of other terms.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 16:40
|
|
|
Finger Prince posted:I think Alberta insurance is like America levels of cheap, so I might have to get a year policy and just cancel after a couple of weeks, which is fine, but I don't want to get boned with paying $2000 for an Ontario policy for a 2 week rental. This is mostly poo poo I don't think about, cause, like, I just live here, but I can tell you AB insurance is not US cheap. I was paying around 350-400 for my Wee, somewhere above 500 for the Rex. $2000 is nuts and I'm sorry you have to pay that, holy crap! I found a thread on tripadvisor about buying/registering/insuring a car in AB when you live out of province... doesn't look too promising, unfortunately, in that I think you still have to reg/insure it in Ontario.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
Chris Knight posted:Yes. In this scenario, I would be buying the bike in Alberta and registering it wherever it needs to be registered.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
Phy posted:This is mostly poo poo I don't think about, cause, like, I just live here, but I can tell you AB insurance is not US cheap. I was paying around 350-400 for my Wee, somewhere above 500 for the Rex. $2000 is nuts and I'm sorry you have to pay that, holy crap! Thanks for finding that. I was afraid I might need a Alberta driver's license to pull this off.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 17:06
|
|
|
I am replacing the handguards on my KTM and the new guards use expander bolts to fit into the handlebar. Are expander bolts easy to remove / replace if the need arises in the future? Are there even any realistic alternatives? TBH I'm not sure how much to worry about this, I just get nervous putting things on the bike that could be a pain in the rear end in the future. For reference, this is what I mean by expander bolt: 
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 16:37
|
|
|
Finger Prince posted:Has anybody tried/does anyone know if it's possible/can anyone recommend a broker for the following scenario? BC /= Alberta but maybe it's relevant. I routinely visit friends in BC and they will get temp registration & insurance on a spare bike for when I'm there. My friends reside in BC, but maybe there is a way to get temp. license if you're not.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 16:41
|
|
|
SocksAndSandals posted:I am replacing the handguards on my KTM and the new guards use expander bolts to fit into the handlebar. The metal doesn't permanently deform. When you loosen the bolt they contract again and release. Those seem oddly small for the inside of a handlebar though. Does KTM do something weird with their bars too?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 16:48
|
|
|
The pic is of the aftermarket (Acerbis) ones. The OEMs that I took off was about 2-3x longer:  E: Thanks. Yeah I thought it would be a permanent deformation
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 17:03
|
|
|
SocksAndSandals posted:BC /= Alberta but maybe it's relevant. I looked into it a bit further and it doesn't look like I'd be able to do what I want to do. My options are buy a bike and let a friend in AB register it in his name and insure it with a policy that allows me to ride, or buy a bike in Ontario, register and insure it here in my name, then somehow get it out to AB and keep it at my friend's place. But as it stands, my situation has changed drastically regarding my time off this summer, so rental is back on the cards.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 17:10
|
|
|
SocksAndSandals posted:I am replacing the handguards on my KTM and the new guards use expander bolts to fit into the handlebar. No issues. I've run Duke 690 handguards on 2 bikes and my brother on 3 more. They're very solid and adjustable for what they cost. You just slack the bolt a little and manhandle it out again if you ever need to remove it. it's solid enough for that. I just leave the expand bit inside my handlebars on the fz6 when I got to remove the handguars for winter storage, I just unscrew the bolt, remove bar end bracket, insert bolt again. The door into the room I use is a little narrow.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 17:37
|
|
|
RMATV sells replacement hardware that works with the Acerbis handguards, I think they are 8 bucks a set, and they come with rubber inserts. It's easy enough to get the retaining hardware out, and if the retaining nut falls off in your bar you can just tip the bike a little and it will roll out.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 17:50
|
|
|
SocksAndSandals posted:The pic is of the aftermarket (Acerbis) ones. The OEMs that I took off was about 2-3x longer: When you do try to remove it in the future, don't unscrew the bolt all the way or else the expanding part will separate and fall deeper into your handlebar. If that happens, I've heard people retrieve it by using a coat hanger to fish it out or blasting the other side of the handlebars with compressed air.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 19:17
|
|
|
Tire question: how is the anakee wild and/ or other 50/50 tires I should try other than my staple heidenau k60? Stock dimensions are 3.00-21 and 4.60 -18 so in modern 80-90 /90 -21 and 120-130/80 -18. I ride gravel touring, so no actual offroad, as that's illegal here(except closed course). rugged what was a logger road 10 years ago max. Any road a proper 4x4 can drive. I recently got a 1988 x600z tenere that has other dimension for tires than what I've owned, so I got some other types I've not used before. Of semi/knobbies tested I've run mitas e09, heidenau k60, k70, tkc 80. Of too street oriented for this bike I've had anakee 3, conti escape, pirelili scorpion trail, Metzler tourance. Keep in mind I'm in Europe, motoz don't have a big distro here.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 19:47
|
|
|
SocksAndSandals posted:The pic is of the aftermarket (Acerbis) ones. The OEMs that I took off was about 2-3x longer: Your alternative is threading the bars. But, as folks say, those are fine.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 01:11
|
|
|
1998 VT1100C not starting. Last ran with no problems 3 weeks ago, just sat since then, usually on the same battery tender jr its been on all winter. Ignition switch on, stop switch to RUN, gearbox in neutral. All lights lit and looking normal. Hit the starter, and while pressed, headlight goes out, starter motor doesn't spin, nothing happens except one loud "Click" (not "click-click-click-"). Headlight comes back on when released (not any dimmer). In case the sidestand switch is doing something funny, lifted the sidestand, put in 1st, squeezed clutch, same result. Checked main fuse and subfuses, all good. Hooked battery up to car (not running), same result. Now I'm worried the starter is toast, and I've heard war stories about getting the starter motor out of these models. Fine, let's skip the starter and try to bump it, down the driveway with someone pushing, dumped the clutch in 2nd, engine coughed once but didn't start. Tried a few more times, only get one or two coughs, but it doesn't start. The fact that it didn't start even when hooked up to a car battery pointed me in other non-battery directions. But an hour later I had my multimeter, battery reads 12.34 when off, ~11.5v with the igition on, and when I hit the starter it drops to ~4v. That sounds bad, but good in the sense that now I hope it really is just the battery. (Also I just remembered my car battery is honestly on its last legs  so I'm going to try with my wife's, but even if that fails, if the battery is truly toast then it wouldn't matter, would it?)Edit: After being hooked up to an actually good car battery for a few minutes, still reads about 12.3v off, 12.1v on, down to 6v when the starter is pressed. Still just one vigorous “Click”, starter doesn’t turn. The click sure does sound like it’s coming from the starter. Is the next step buy a fresh battery? Or is using a good car battery enough to continue to troubleshoot? If so, is the next step is to just connect the starter motor directly to battery +ve? If at that point the starter doesn't turn... it's a bad starter motor? epswing fucked around with this message at 02:24 on May 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 01:45
|
|
|
builds character posted:Your alternative is threading the bars. But, as folks say, those are fine. Thanks for the advice everyone. Guards have been mounted successfully and did a little test ride. Have to make some minor adjustments for clutch lever clearance and trim the excess throttle grip a little bit but it worked like a charm. Because I'm extra paranoid I did a dry run and bolted one of the guards on lightly, then removed it. Came off without much fuss.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 02:21
|
|
|
epswing posted:1998 VT1100C not starting. Last ran with no problems 3 weeks ago, just sat since then, usually on the same battery tender jr its been on all winter. I was stranded recently when practically the same symptoms happened to me on my EX250. (Except, my bike completely died for a short while after pressing the starter button; no lights or anything.) Only, when I daisy-chained a car battery to my battery, it started easily. When I then disconnected the car battery after starting, the electrical got really weird and the bike would die again if I didn't rev it. A new battery fixed it. So, it might be the starter... The axiom is "explore the cheapest-to-fix diagnostic and then move on down to the more expensive ones."
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 03:16
|
|
|
epswing posted:1998 VT1100C not starting. Last ran with no problems 3 weeks ago, just sat since then, usually on the same battery tender jr its been on all winter. Set key to on, hook jump battery directly to the starter lug and see if it turns over. If it turns and starts it's your battery or starter relay, if it turns but doesn't start it's your battery and possibly flooding, if it doesn't turn it's the starter. Do this, then proceed to narrow it down with the multimeter if it isn't just a bung starter. Those voltage readings aren't great but should still let it turn over slowly. Also make sure it hasn't flooded the engine by a stuck float/tap and is now hydrolocking cause that gives identical symptoms, take the plugs out and turn it over to rule this out.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 04:58
|
|
|
OK, bear with me, I want to make sure I fully understand.Slavvy posted:take the plugs out and turn it over to rule this out. epswing fucked around with this message at 06:39 on May 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 05:42
|
|
|
If it's fully flooded with gas the cylinder + combustion chamber volume are filled with petrol on at least one cylinder. It can be partially flooded by a very small amount of gas, enough to drown the plug and make starting hard, but to stop the bike turning over it would need to be hydraulically locked from the aforementioned. So even just taking the plugs out and attempting starting would test this because the engine would spin free and jet petrol out of the plug holes. If it still won't turn you know the problem is electrical/starter.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 07:11
|
|
|
How bad is engine braking really? I keep reading 'brakes are cheaper than piston (ring)s', but I am just so used to easing my car down via engine braking (and saving tons of fuel that way) that I just always end up doing the same on my bike. I could probably change that habit, but is it really that much more wear on an engine?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 08:13
|
|
|
That's a new one for me. It isn't bad, you do it whenever you're on a shut throttle...yeah idk what to think. Coasting around on a shut throttle is poor technique for a bunch of reasons but you definitely can't damage anything. It isn't bad in some mysterious way, it's just a normal thing bikes do every day. I don't see how everything spinning free, with no combustion, just gently pushed around by the back wheel, is somehow more wearing than the fire and pulverizing torque and furious pulling and vicious, digging rotation that's normal under acceleration. E: vvvvv they don't engine brake at all but yeah, you should keep the rpm low if the throttle is shut, the bottom end can survive more than you'd think provided heat is low Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:33 on May 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 08:28
|
|
|
Engine braking is perfectly fine for 4 stroke engines. Just conciously rev match, don't slip the clutch too much to make down changes smooth. On premix two strokes it's a different story. Those don't get the amount of oil needed for a specific rpm, if the engine is spinning but the throttle closed. Modern ones may be different but 2 stroke doesn't engine brake much anyway, or so i've heard.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 08:30
|
|
|
LimaBiker posted:Engine braking is perfectly fine for 4 stroke engines. Just conciously rev match, don't slip the clutch too much to make down changes smooth. I don't think I'm doing this, I just ease in the clutch.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 08:37
|
|
|
I'm trying to judge how much brake pad life I've got left, can that be judged by the thickness of the rear pads or are those generally thicker than the front pads even when both are new?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 12:00
|
|
|
High Protein posted:I'm trying to judge how much brake pad life I've got left, can that be judged by the thickness of the rear pads or are those generally thicker than the front pads even when both are new? No, check them (And replace them) independently because they will wear at completely different rates depending on the bike and your riding style.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 12:24
|
|
|
Yeah they will wear at different rates. I use my front brakes far more than the rear. Assume it's also dependent on caliper/disc size etc.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 12:49
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Set key to on, hook jump battery directly to the starter lug and see if it turns over. If it turns and starts it's your battery or starter relay, if it turns but doesn't start it's your battery and possibly flooding, if it doesn't turn it's the starter. Do this, then proceed to narrow it down with the multimeter if it isn't just a bung starter. Those voltage readings aren't great but should still let it turn over slowly. Plugs out (dry), spin rear in 5th, engine turns over (I hear huffing and wheezing). Key on, jump the starter directly to battery, while making contact I get a short spark and the headlight dims but nothing else happens. Wire got warm. Battery only has 11.99v at this point after a couple tries, but if that should be enough to turn it, sounds like the starter is toast. gently caress. epswing fucked around with this message at 18:51 on May 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 18:40
|
|
|
Make sure to do this with a different battery, not the one on the bike cause all you've done there is just prove it's definitely the starter OR the battery.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 19:28
|
|
|
Ok, that’s fair, if I connect the battery in the bike to a good car battery, and try again, would you consider that to be a definitive test? I ask because getting an actual replacement battery will take some number of days that I’d rather not wait, if possible.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 19:43
|
|
|
epswing posted:Ok, that’s fair, if I connect the battery in the bike to a good car battery, and try again, would you consider that to be a definitive test? If you connect a car battery to your battery you are still having to push through a battery that may be acting like a black hole, a relay that may not work, and wiring that may not be intact. Put the positive lead from the car battery directly on the starter lug. Put the negative lead on the starter body and touch the other end to the negative terminal, the bike should turn over. If it doesn't the starter is hosed. This is the only way to definitively test the starter that doesn't rely on other stuff working. If it turns over, disconnect the starter lug, put your multimeter on it, try 'starting' and see how much if any voltage is actually reaching the starter.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 19:55
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:No, check them (And replace them) independently because they will wear at completely different rates depending on the bike and your riding style. I know, but my question is if new front pads are as thick as new rears. The bike I'm looking at has got new rears and they're way thicker than the (old) fronts, but that not be saying much about how worn down the fronts are.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2021 08:07
|
|
|
idk but I just got new EBC pads for my bike and the fronts were the same thickness as the rears 
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2021 15:25
|
|
|
High Protein posted:I know, but my question is if new front pads are as thick as new rears. The bike I'm looking at has got new rears and they're way thicker than the (old) fronts, but that not be saying much about how worn down the fronts are. Sometimes, maybe? This is like asking if your shoes are the right size based on your underwear; maybe there's a correlation, maybe not, but you don't go to the shoe store with no pants on so they can check. A good rule of thumb: if the friction material is thinner than the steel backing plate, they're pretty worn. If they're down to like 2mm they are hosed. New pads range anywhere between 3-8mm worth of friction material thickness. Front and rear brakes come out of a bucket based on what will roughly work and fit and not cost too much money, they are not carefully chosen by the brake elders for their matching chi harmonics. The model of bike or what it has on either end is basically irrelevant, we buy brake pads by model because it's convenient, but they should really be sold by caliper the way tyres are just sold by size. You can buy brembo stuff this way ie rebuild a caliper and fit new pads without knowing what kind of bike it came from, because brakes are standardized across bikes and brembo actually bother to take advantage of this for sales purposes.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2021 19:37
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:If you connect a car battery to your battery you are still having to push through a battery that may be acting like a black hole, a relay that may not work, and wiring that may not be intact. It's a really tight space in there, don't think I'll be able to get chunky jumper cable connectors touching the right parts. Looks like it'll have to come out. A new OEM starter is $990 CAD  and back-ordered to August. It's an old 1998 Shadow so a new starter is like 1/2 the cost of the bike itself. drat. The bike is in great shape otherwise, ran great without any issues 3 weeks ago, so I was actually trying to sell it. Sounds like my options are (A) try to sell a non-running bike, (B) attempt to repair/rebuild the starter, (C) source a cheap aftermarket starter, (D) part the bike out on ebay.I have never done any of those 4 options before. I'm reasonably handy, but my limiting factors are time (got kids) and space (small garage). What say you, thread?
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2021 19:54
|
|
|
Rebuilding starters is fun and easy but you should really really make sure that's the problem first, maybe connect the positive lead to the other end of the starter lead that terminates at the relay?
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2021 20:09
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:you don't go to the shoe store with no pants on so they can check. Bit loving late for that advice now Slavvy.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2021 20:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 08:31 |
|
|
Probably dumb question, but I think I need to add a little rubber to/replace the rubber on my exhaust strap, the whole exhaust is held together by those little springs and I keep finding the can has rotated clockwise from the vibration. Planning on replacing the springs as well cause they're kinda rusty, but, any particular rubber I should avoid? Is there a source specifically for "exhaust strap rubber" cause mine has a couple little ridges on either side to keep it on the strap
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2021 22:03
|
|