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Phone posted:the car can still be flickable, you'll just have to run some toe out in the front (which will destroy your tires if you want to drive several hundred miles on the freeway every week) PSI. Pounds per square inch. You need a certain amount of square inches to support a certain amount of pounds. You know the weight of the car, you know the tire pressure, you calculate the contact patch. There are variables like sidewall strength, but that's the core formula. Based on the contact patch you can calculate (roughly) the vertical displacement of the tire by using the chord length of the tire required to create the necessary contact patch. The wider the tire, the less it deflects to create the same contact patch as a skinnier tire. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 21:14 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 21:10
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um excuse me posted:PSI. Pounds per square inch. You need a certain amount of square inches to support a certain amount of pounds. You know the weight of the car, you know the tire pressure, you calculate the contact patch. There are variables like sidewall strength, but that's the core formula. Based on the contact patch you can calculate (roughly) the vertical displacement of the tire by using the chord length of the tire required to create the necessary contact patch. The wider the tire, the less it deflects to create the same contact patch as a skinnier tire. What number is bigger: 5 or 8?
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May 17, 2021 21:15
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um excuse me posted:Contact patch with two different width tires are actually the same. The tire has to support the weight of an identically heavy car regardless of width. When you start cancelling out both sides of the equation you soon realize that tire pressure is the only part that effects contact patch. I, for example, run 235mm street tires at 35 PSI. I did the math and found out I needed to run 29 PSI in my 275mm tires to get the same vertical deflection, and therefore get the best performance (In reality the pressure is higher because the translated loading on the tire during autocross ends up being much higher than street driving, but the same principle applies). Just FYI the reasoning here is based on a minor mistake in the original assumptions. If tires were super soft balloons, then yes, contact patch area would just be determined by PSI. Tires have a lot of structure and don't behave like that. Also, two tires of different sizes, you are going to run less pressure in the wider tire. Edit: "Like putting too much air into a balloon!" asmasm fucked around with this message at 21:44 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 21:42
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Lower on wider is what I thought I said. In my follow up post I did mention that there are variables in the tire. While I agree the tire structure does make it behave differently, a deflated tire will still run on the rim if the tire wasn't physically in the way meaning air is a large part of it. I originally stumbled across this realization not in a book or on track, but actually doing suspension design and trying to figure out how much of a spring the tire is in a system with many difference mechanism for compliance in series (ie, tires, helper spring, main spring, bushings, other body flexures, etc). For anyone interested, a tire's spring rate is measured in thousands of pounds per inch on just air alone.
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May 17, 2021 23:19
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I'm going to highly suggest you read a book, specifically maybe some Carroll Smith ones.
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May 17, 2021 23:30
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What is the most likely reason my NB doesn't start... but only like 1/10 times. 9 times out of 10 it starts right up. The 10th time it just cranks and doesn't catch. And then you go "oh poo poo am I stuck here" and you crank it again... doesn't catch. Maybe 2 or 3 more times. And then magically it catches and starts. Runs perfect on the drive. Then starts right up 5 minutes later, or the next day, or whatever until one time it doesn't again. Battery just on the edge of not having enough juice? Starter motor? Fuel injectors?
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May 18, 2021 22:09
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I don't know but this happens to me too but like 1/100 times and usually starts the next attempt.
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May 18, 2021 22:18
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Elysium posted:What is the most likely reason my NB doesn't start... but only like 1/10 times. 9 times out of 10 it starts right up. The 10th time it just cranks and doesn't catch. And then you go "oh poo poo am I stuck here" and you crank it again... doesn't catch. Maybe 2 or 3 more times. And then magically it catches and starts. Runs perfect on the drive. Then starts right up 5 minutes later, or the next day, or whatever until one time it doesn't again. Can you hear the fuel pump relay click and prime?
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May 18, 2021 22:43
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Um, I don't know? Here is a video of me starting it just now. Usually it doesn't even crank this long, but I guess it has been starting worse since it wouldn't start at all (until I waited 5 minutes and 5 tries) at the gas station earlier today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUhHzbCtFf8 When it doesn't start it sounds just like it does from 2-3 seconds in the video... except it keeps going and doesn't start.
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May 18, 2021 23:02
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Alright so you blow right past turning the car to ON and immediately start hammering on the starter. The positions are OFF-ACC-ON-START on the key. From the off position, turn the key to On but don’t hit the starter. Retake that video.
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May 19, 2021 01:29
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Phone posted:Alright so you blow right past turning the car to ON and immediately start hammering on the starter. The positions are OFF-ACC-ON-START on the key. Ok, how’s this: https://youtube.com/shorts/8il4p0wZtqk?feature=share
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May 19, 2021 03:23
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I can't hear the high pitch whine of the fuel pump being primed or the relay clicking over. 
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May 19, 2021 07:52
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Going for a ship of Theseus approach to my MX5, chassis rails done, just need to mount up the new sway bar mounts and get those spot welded in, new sway bar, new sway bar brackets, new adjustable end links... Arriving today are new lower control arms for the front, new tie rod ends. There's those little tabs to turn the single shear end link mounts on the control arms into burlier double sheer mounts from Racing Beat on the way too. Sills arrived last week, there's a RHS rear wing to replace, a sill end plate sat in the boot of the car awaiting install... Slowly working my way to the back of the car on this. Fairly sure the lower control arms will be bushless too so I need to look into what's good to slot into those. Basically I want to daily this thing forever so I'm not going to give it hardcore bushings, I'd like the car to be OEM+ if you get me. Oh and the new OEM Mazda cam cover gasket I bought last summer before a road trip is leaking a tad and over the course of the drive has basically covered the entirety of the front of the engine in a thin film of oil. So that needs cleaning up. Oh and replacing the cam belt as a precaution again because oil and also finally have the correct water pump. I now realise this is a lot of poo poo. Hopefully it won't be too long until it's back on the road.  *edit: Got home to find these lower control arms dooooo have bushings in already. Fuckin' A. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 19:40 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 11:14
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What's the goon wisdom on cooling reroute? It's a street car with a few track days per year, on small kart tracks so it's usually not at redline and/or WOT all the time. I'll be doing the chassis rails as Olympic Mathlete just did and looking what else to knock out at the same time too. Last oil change the level was noticeably lower compared to what I put in, and while some probably leaked out through the valve cover gasket, I want to make sure it doesn't start burning it and damaging the cylinder.
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May 21, 2021 21:43
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Stock power in a non-w2w setting I wouldnt bother.
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May 21, 2021 22:29
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I think I figured it out - the NC is just a retainer/cushion/sleeve setup. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 17:09 on May 26, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 16:35
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mobby_6kl posted:What's the goon wisdom on cooling reroute? It's a street car with a few track days per year, on small kart tracks so it's usually not at redline and/or WOT all the time. I did the 949/supermiata reroute and it's lowered my overall operating temps a good bit, at least by the meter on the dash. I live in a hot climate and the car would go over 12 o'clock in stop & go traffic with the AC on. Not by far, but enough to concern me. Autocross would have it going even further. Ever since, I've never had a problem. I installed it with the engine out. I can't imagine doing it with the engine in the car, there's no room back there. Also the cobalt coolant tube is the way to go with that reroute, just cut off the angled section at the back.
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May 26, 2021 01:15
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I just ordered a new top for my Miata from Robbins. I was super confused about matching the color on my car, the existing top is not tan but more of a neutral color. Robbins website only shows a tan option, which would not match the "parchment" interior that is more of a light cream than a tan. I called Robbins and it turns out they do stock the "Neutral" color canvas that came stock on 2003-2005 Miatas, they just don't show it on the website for some reason. Just wanted to put this here in case anyone else is/was confused about this. I will post an update comparing the new top to the old one when it arrives. Also...the top installer told me I need to make sure my latches both actually work, otherwise the new top will pull itself back. I checked and indeed one of my latches isn't really engaging properly...it will pull the top to the windshield, but you don't actually have to push on the little tab to unlock the latch...which is exactly what the top installer told me to watch out for. Is there a way to adjust this so it works again, or do I need to order a new latch? Or steal one off my hardtop?
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May 27, 2021 03:22
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There's an adjustment screw but it's for adjusting the tightness of the latch. If they don't lock, you probably need replacement latch locks. I put these in my 2001 when I first got it. The previous owner had been relying on the visors to keep the latches from opening, sigh https://www.flyinmiata.com/NB/billet-aluminum-top-latch-locks-pair.html Anyone have any good tips on finding an installer? The Robbins web site lists a few in my area, but of the ones near me, one is closed, one isn't doing top installs anymore, and the last has terrible reviews.
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May 27, 2021 03:39
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My radiator just exploded 
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May 27, 2021 21:54
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djfooboo posted:My radiator just exploded Sorry bout that
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May 27, 2021 23:35
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I put my NC on a lift to fix a heat shield rattle. Discovered the rear diff housing is one hell of a rusty mess. I can't believe how bad it is. There's flakes almost a quarter inch coming off the thing and it's all cracked up. Getting rid of it soon anyways, but the northeast has not been kind to this car.
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May 29, 2021 00:06
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Today was a good day.
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May 31, 2021 04:16
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god bless Beefy
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May 31, 2021 04:25
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Applesnots posted:Today was a good day. Haha, I love that thing. Did we ever get any video of adventures? That's a hint if not. Unrelated to sick go anywhere convertibles: I'm swapping out the lower control arms and I note the alignment bolt setup isn't exactly minty fresh and I'm concerned about them not holding an adjustment over time. I see you can get some trick replacements but is there any real need to or am I good to grab a straight replacement set?
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May 31, 2021 21:25
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Haha, I love that thing. Did we ever get any video of adventures? That's a hint if not.
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May 31, 2021 21:44
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:2016 ND update: im still waiting for the dealership to schedule a windshield replacement is this delay b/c of covid or am i just unlucky
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Jun 1, 2021 02:03
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:update: im still waiting for the dealership to schedule a windshield replacement Seems unlucky to me. I worked with a borderline incompetent company that still managed to get my Golf’s windshield replaced in a week or so. Sounds like you might be trying to get Mazda glass though, so that might complicate matters.
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Jun 1, 2021 05:12
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Glass replacement on a ND is a nightmare. There's a TSB stating the parts that need to be replaced, but dealers don't seem to keep those parts in stock, and half the dealers I've talked to don't even think that there are any parts that need to be replaced, beyond the glass itself. The normal glass specialists don't have it flagged as needing anything special, so they will schedule the work, and realize they can't complete it part way through the job. Make sure the dealer has the trim pieces before starting, or you might be out a car while they order them. I'm still trying to get my windshield replaced.
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Jun 1, 2021 13:24
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wzm posted:Glass replacement on a ND is a nightmare. There's a TSB stating the parts that need to be replaced, but dealers don't seem to keep those parts in stock, and half the dealers I've talked to don't even think that there are any parts that need to be replaced, beyond the glass itself. The normal glass specialists don't have it flagged as needing anything special, so they will schedule the work, and realize they can't complete it part way through the job. Make sure the dealer has the trim pieces before starting, or you might be out a car while they order them. I'm still trying to get my windshield replaced. drat, so I guess the parts are damaged in removal? Unrelated, I saw an NB with BFG all terrains today (I recognize the sidewall from when I was debating buying them for my Mercury, still wish I had gotten them). I was driving and unable to pull out my camera but oh my god it looked so good. Lil Beefies are the only way to go with the first 2 generations. As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 02:06
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Oil cooler and motor mounts 
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Jun 2, 2021 08:27
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Virgil Vox posted:Oil cooler and motor mounts If it's anything like my NC, might want to take this opportunity to replace or upgrade your headlight bulbs. No sense having to remove the front bumper a second time.
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Jun 2, 2021 12:43
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As Nero Danced posted:drat, so I guess the parts are damaged in removal? The parts are damaged in removal, and Mazda has a TSB stating that they must be replaced. Unfortunately, dealers usually farm out glass replacement to other people, and it's up to those shops to be aware of the Mazda TSB before starting work.
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Jun 2, 2021 16:47
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As Nero Danced posted:If it's anything like my NC, might want to take this opportunity to replace or upgrade your headlight bulbs. No sense having to remove the front bumper a second time. On the NC you can access the headlights without taking off the front bumper or going in through the wheel wells or anything too crazy. You can unbolt and move the washer fluid reservoir and the fuse box to get to them. Unless you mean replacing or upgrading the entire headlight assembly - in that case yeah, it's a pain.
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Jun 2, 2021 22:08
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FreelanceSocialist posted:On the NC you can access the headlights without taking off the front bumper or going in through the wheel wells or anything too crazy. You can unbolt and move the washer fluid reservoir and the fuse box to get to them. Unless you mean replacing or upgrading the entire headlight assembly - in that case yeah, it's a pain. I tried moving the fusebox but it wasn't cooperating, and even if I could move it back the two or so inches wouldn't have given me enough room to maneuver the metal clip out of the way. Passenger side wasn't bad though.
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Jun 3, 2021 00:36
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The front bumper on the ND is pretty easy, takes time for all these plastic clips but it's not hard. Getting the fitment back on though, ehh its close and looks good but it's not as perfect. Got the oil cooler running and only had one leak that was fixed by tightening. Motor mounts added a lot of shakes but we'll see if they settle. I've only ran the car in the garage so far.
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Jun 3, 2021 05:02
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Just came across this video which was probably posted years ago though I don't remember seeing it ITT. It's a Koenigsegg driver Robert Serwanski on the ring with a stock engine NC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhWwl4bqeoY The mods are a bit more extensive than I initially thought but you could probably get close results without doing everything. You can see a GTR fly past him in an uphill section where he has no power but he's carrying pretty scary speeds through corners. I'd imagine an ND2 could do even better though. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jun 6, 2021 |
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Jun 6, 2021 01:02
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I need a pad that's a step up from the portersfield r4s , suggestions? I'm eyeing Hawk dtc 30
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Jun 6, 2021 09:19
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Dtc 30a are a dirt pad. Dtc 60 or ht-10 if you want Hawk. Gloc seems to get alll the buzz these days though.
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Jun 6, 2021 15:15
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| # ? May 25, 2024 18:27 |
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I just wanted to see if i could do it.
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Jun 6, 2021 22:17
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