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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yo mambold or anyone else, I've only used quarter round bits and heh just found out they have the whole roundover bit for one pass... is that the jam or? Is it that much better and worth buying a new bit for? Its pretty tempting and seems like a big timer saver and potential work saver too if it makes a clean pass. Half inch seems big though. The wood is hem-"fir" if it matters. Just go slow, if it's the type that splinters, or back the bit off 1/32" from full for the first pass maybe. I have a bunch of different roundover bits from like 1/4" to 1" I think? Muy bueno amigo.
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Jun 1, 2021 17:13
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yo mambold or anyone else, I've only used quarter round bits and heh just found out they have the whole roundover bit for one pass... is that the jam or? Is it that much better and worth buying a new bit for? Its pretty tempting and seems like a big timer saver and potential work saver too if it makes a clean pass. Half inch seems big though. The wood is hem-"fir" if it matters. They work fine but you have to use them in a router table since they don't have a bearing and because they are cutting the whole face you may get some snipe at the outfeed end. Also you'd definitely need to cut it in 2 passes which may not actually save you time if you can do it in 1 pass on 2 edges with a quarter round bit. You can get a cleaner cut with the bullnose bits if you pay attention to grain direction-a quarter round will usually be going against the grain on one face. No flat or point to sand off either, which probably isn't as much of a concern on painted star treads.
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Jun 1, 2021 17:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:They work fine but you have to use them in a router table since they don't have a bearing and because they are cutting the whole face you may get some snipe at the outfeed end. Also you'd definitely need to cut it in 2 passes which may not actually save you time if you can do it in 1 pass on 2 edges with a quarter round bit. You can get a cleaner cut with the bullnose bits if you pay attention to grain direction-a quarter round will usually be going against the grain on one face. No flat or point to sand off either, which probably isn't as much of a concern on painted star treads. Ah, my bad for not comprehending. This is true, unless you could put some sort of rub collar on one with a straightedge tacked to the piece, I guess.
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Jun 1, 2021 19:25
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Just Winging It posted:I was talking about the boards you can buy today, not antiques, but I readily believe you, antique sellers really don't like it when you get all close and personal with a piece to see that kind of thing, so I can't speak from experience on that myself, only to the aesthetic qualities, which when French polished, are very nice indeed. Speaking of continental walnut antiques and woodworm....   Lol. There’s barely any wood left in there to repair.
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Jun 2, 2021 22:58
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 If one leg looks like that, the rest of the chair? probably isn't looking any better. Close-ups do make for a nice alien landscape though.
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Jun 2, 2021 23:30
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Me while applying oil: these knots are really pretty Me sinking nuts: knots in acacia are really hard to drill though and I hate them
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Jun 3, 2021 01:58
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Went to the wood shop yesterday and it looks like prices for specialty ply are finally catching up. Pretty much all of the hardwood-veneered cabinetry ply I saw is up 2x or more, maple multi-ply & cheap BB up maybe 50-60%. HW lumber seemed more or less flat. Oak seemed like it went up a bit, but pretty much all hardwood lumber they stock hasn't moved yet, though some stocks were depleted. (bay area, so expensive, but still)
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Jun 3, 2021 06:23
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so that bandsaw i found seems pretty unsalvageable - what brands do people use or recommend for like, stationary woodworking?
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Jun 3, 2021 13:37
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The Delta/Rockwell from the 60's-80's is a solid low cost option if you can find one. INCA made the only 3-wheeler worth considering. The 20" rockwell is also a valid option if you have the space. Otherwise you're looking at a modern steel frame saw from Grizzly, Harvey, Rikon, Jet, Powermatic, minimax, felder, etc.
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Jun 3, 2021 13:47
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HolHorsejob posted:Went to the wood shop yesterday and it looks like prices for specialty ply are finally catching up. Pretty much all of the hardwood-veneered cabinetry ply I saw is up 2x or more, maple multi-ply & cheap BB up maybe 50-60%. HW lumber seemed more or less flat. Oak seemed like it went up a bit, but pretty much all hardwood lumber they stock hasn't moved yet, though some stocks were depleted. (bay area, so expensive, but still) My local place in western NY has raised walnut by $4/brd ft. Maple and white oak by like $1/brd ft. and cherry by like ~$.50 brd ft. Red oak hasn't moved at all.
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Jun 3, 2021 14:14
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I finished the assembly on my console/side table this week and my miters didn't come together perfectly. I had to use the burnishing trick I saw on WIlliam Ng's youtube channel to bring them together, but now I've got an unsightly dark glue line on the miter seam. Its fine from 5 feet, but its really driving me crazy that its there. Any way I can resolve it or at least hide it better?
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Jun 3, 2021 18:13
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Hypnolobster posted:Even slightly oversized holes in the metal base is probably enough to give some room for seasonal movement. 1/4" bolt in a 3/8" hole is enough, unless the top is very wide. Also yes, threaded inserts are the way to go. Buy good ones, and buy ones meant for hardwood. the brass Home Depot versions of these are the bane of my existence, drill them out to their nominal diameter and the slotted head rips itself apart on install. Drill them out a little wider, and they unscrew themselves. I need some show pieces for this summer so I've been cleaning out my woodshop by way of turning the trash into coffee tables. We ripped these maple boards out of an old warehouse years back thinking we were gonna refloor our kitchen with 'em, before we realized how insanely nasty they were.  Still clean up nice if you trim all the tongue and groove parts off though. Couple with a big plank of quartersawn sycamore a cabinetmaker out here was throwing away cause it was too thin and warped for whatever he was doing, good enough for me    you almost don't notice all the nail holes now. Torn between making some plugs to cover those up or just calling it "authentic reclaimed barnwood" and marking it up 20% A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 22:03
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:the brass Home Depot versions of these are the bane of my existence, drill them out to their nominal diameter and the slotted head rips itself apart on install. Drill them out a little wider, and they unscrew themselves. Leave 'em. That grain is gorgeous. I never knew sycamore was that pretty....
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Jun 3, 2021 22:20
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yeah it doesn't really look like anything flatsawn, but if you get a quarter or rift sawn cut right across the diameter of the trunk it's got a great pattern, I see it sold pretty often as 'lacewood'. I've got a bunch of it from felled trees out here I've been slowly turning into lumber (nothing like that big plank tho that guy was nuts for giving it away), where those little squares in the middle of the legs came from and a lot of other odds and ends. Maybe half of it comes out looking like that, the rest goes to jigs and etc.
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 22:29
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Another tale of what "cheap" really means with a hand plane: Friend says "you do things with wood, I found this in the basement" and gives me a Buck Bros hand plane. Okay, challenge accepted. It's free, what can I lose? The sides are dead square with the sole, good start. Sole was covered in tool marks so clearly nobody had lapped it. Only took about 15 minutes to flatten the sole, not bad. Lapping the blade took about the same amount of time. Honed it, and it was ready to go. Took some beautiful consistent ribbons off a scrap pine board. Awesome. Adjust the depth of cut, still good. Back off the adjuster a little and... the little wishbone-looking adjuster shatters into three pieces. Cheapest pot metal I've ever seen on a tool.
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Jun 3, 2021 23:15
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Normally that piece should be cast iron, which will shatter rather than bend; that doesn't mean yours is, of course, but it's one of the more common parts to find broken, and also plane resto guides all tell you not to try to "tighten" the fit of the wishbone over the dial by squeezing it because it won't bend it'll just break. Why is it cast iron? I don't fuckin' know, it just is.
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Jun 3, 2021 23:27
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Leperflesh posted:Normally that piece should be cast iron, which will shatter rather than bend; that doesn't mean yours is, of course, but it's one of the more common parts to find broken, and also plane resto guides all tell you not to try to "tighten" the fit of the wishbone over the dial by squeezing it because it won't bend it'll just break. Interesting. The one on my old Sargent plane looks like steel. The one on this Buck Bros looks like cast something, specifically the poo poo that old die-cast toys were made of.
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Jun 3, 2021 23:41
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:so that bandsaw i found seems pretty unsalvageable - what brands do people use or recommend for like, stationary woodworking? what specifically are you planning to do with it? like GEMorris said the Delta/Rockwell 14s are very solid and there's usually at least one on Craigslist cheap because they last forever. If you're planning on doing larger stock or cutting veneers or anything worth holding out for one with the riser block kit already installed, as otherwise it costs as much as the saws do now. this is an exceptionally bad time to be bargain-hunting on shop equipment, though, my bar for "unsalveagable" on gear already in hand would be dramatically lower these days than it woulda been last March. Did a truck hit it and then catch fire? How hot was the fire? A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 23:46
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:the brass Home Depot versions of these are the bane of my existence, drill them out to their nominal diameter and the slotted head rips itself apart on install. Drill them out a little wider, and they unscrew themselves. I really like the design of those legs. How big is that sycamore board? Looks huge and to be QS....that was a big tree. How do you like working with it? I've always read bad things about it as far as workability/movement/etc but I don't think I've ever actually used any myself. Kind of like sweet gum, which is another occasionally really pretty wood that never gets used for workability reasons.
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Jun 4, 2021 00:38
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Making some progress on my shoji lantern.
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Jun 4, 2021 01:00
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I installed my new drawer fronts. But apparently I got better at staining and poly than I was when I did the doors. So now I'm probably going to re-do the doors. Then I'll need to re do the drawers, and so it goes.
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Jun 4, 2021 11:54
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I really like the design of those legs. How big is that sycamore board? Looks huge and to be QS....that was a big tree. How do you like working with it? I've always read bad things about it as far as workability/movement/etc but I don't think I've ever actually used any myself. Kind of like sweet gum, which is another occasionally really pretty wood that never gets used for workability reasons. Once I got done cutting all the hopelessly warped parts off I had a 18"x41" panel left, it's thin (and clearly prone to deforming) so I'm definitely gonna back it up with some maple ribs on the underside. Huge tree, but this guy had access to all kinds of wild poo poo - his scrap bin was full of bits of a 300-year-old oak from Mount Vernon that he'd been turning into some general's desk. Sycamore's pretty soft compared to walnut and oak and the like, you're not gonna scratch it with a fingernail or anything but it chisels like butter. I kinda work with the assumption it's gonna move, as much because I'm often using wood that's still kinda green as anything else, but it supposedly was used as a utility wood like poplar back in the days when America had old-growth forests so there's gotta be ways to make it work. Biggest problem I've had is the figured surfaces tear out fairly easily, at least using poo poo-butt makerspace tools. Here's a bit I didn't bother clean up: 
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Jun 4, 2021 15:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I really like the design of those legs. How big is that sycamore board? Looks huge and to be QS....that was a big tree. How do you like working with it? I've always read bad things about it as far as workability/movement/etc but I don't think I've ever actually used any myself. Kind of like sweet gum, which is another occasionally really pretty wood that never gets used for workability reasons. Speaking of, I finally got out to my local sawmill/lumberyard. They're only open 9-11 AM on the 1st and 3rd Saturday of the month which doesn't make it easy. It's a pretty cool place, the guy running it is a really nice long haired bearded dude, and all their stuff is locally felled trees so the selection can get interesting - lots of oak and sycamore plus things like hackberry, buckeye, Chinese chestnut, and mulberry that you don't see at your typical lumberyard. And due to the prevalence of oak trees in the region, oak prices range from $1.50/bf for plain sawn no 1 common to $5.50/bf for quartersawn select which is better than anywhere else I've seen. I happily got some nice sycamore and spalted sweet gum to make a hanging cupboard out of and as soon as I got it home realized it's too wide to resaw in my bandsaw. What are my options that are better than rip, resaw, and joint?
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Jun 5, 2021 20:43
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 I cracked the front of this box I'm working on after a series of mistakes and bad decisions. This is about as far as I can open the crack. What's a good way to get some wood glue deep into there to fix it (instead of just spreading some on the very edge like usually happens when I attempt this kind of fix)? I swear, this thing is going to end up 70% glue by the time I'm done.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:16
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I'd use a glue that has a long working time (that is, it stays wet longer) and dilute it until it's thin enough to easily wick into the wood. That said, the endgrain is also likely to absorb some of the glue and then subsequently take some types of finishes differently from the surrounding wood. If you're painting that doesn't matter, but if you were planning to stain, you may need to stain before gluing. As you said, mistakes. We've all been there, but I hope one that you recognize is making that deep dado into endgrain. A break there was almost inevitable.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:26
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alnilam posted:Making a carrying tray out of two 1x8 boards. It's going to be supported by a 1x2 lip around the edges but i wanted a little more support between the two bottom boards too, so I improvised this little dowel joint. I don't have a jig so I drove some small nails part way into board 1, clipped off the heads, then lined the boards up and hammered them together a little bit to mark the spots. This ended up being surprisingly flat and strong for being kind of a hackjob. The rest of the project turned out awesome too.  A simple tray. For carrying? Oh no, not quite. Our small 2nd floor deck , just off the kitchen, does not have stairs down to the backyard where our outdoor eating area is. So i built a dumbwaiter.   It's so awesome, I love it so dorkily much.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:33
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Leperflesh posted:As you said, mistakes. We've all been there, but I hope one that you recognize is making that deep dado into endgrain. A break there was almost inevitable. I see that made that part the weakest, but the specific cause was that there's a drawer underneath and I glued the front on in situ (to make sure I aligned it properly) and let it dry too long before trying to remove the drawer and it glued itself to the top board and I was basically leveraging with all the force that I could muster to break it free. I should have pulled the drawer after a few minutes and I should have taken a razor to the seam to break up the glue before muscling it off. It took a surprising amount of force to crack! But I did have issues in other areas around that feature. I was going to make two more boxes and may tweak the design some for those.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:35
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Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of, I finally got out to my local sawmill/lumberyard. They're only open 9-11 AM on the 1st and 3rd Saturday of the month which doesn't make it easy. It's a pretty cool place, the guy running it is a really nice long haired bearded dude, and all their stuff is locally felled trees so the selection can get interesting - lots of oak and sycamore plus things like hackberry, buckeye, Chinese chestnut, and mulberry that you don't see at your typical lumberyard. And due to the prevalence of oak trees in the region, oak prices range from $1.50/bf for plain sawn no 1 common to $5.50/bf for quartersawn select which is better than anywhere else I've seen. lmao my local lumberyard just quoted me $10/lbf for quartersawn. I don't even like oak but the house is kinda made of it. I miss my old dude who was some kind of lumber hoarder and would let me pick out 12/4 ziricote boards half my weight out from under his pile of naily 2x4s and warped poplar, totally worth almost dying in a veneer avalanche On the big board, unfortunately the only really good option for resawing is a bigger bandsaw. Fortunately you know a sawmill who will have the Biggest Bandsaw. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jun 5, 2021 |
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Jun 5, 2021 21:40
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I'm trying to get the confidence up to actually do the things I said I'd do with woodworking. I tried to use some wood from Ikea furniture I'll never use again just as sacrificial panels or maybe some guides or something like that, and it split just from clamping and sawing by hand. I find this sort of interesting. I didn't expect it to be good in the first place, but I'm wondering now if this is something I should also consider for wood that isn't known to be complete poo poo? I didn't use a vise, I used two clamps, with one each at the front end and rear end of the panel here. I assume this has a lot to do with how the strips of wood are oriented, and that I was using a cross cut against that orientation. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jun 5, 2021 |
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Jun 5, 2021 21:46
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Given that plainsawn white oak is literally as cheap as big box softwood, I might just get some to make a box and use unnatural color dyes in pore filler, just for fun like this craziness.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:57
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signalnoise posted:I'm trying to get the confidence up to actually do the things I said I'd do with woodworking. I tried to use some wood from Ikea furniture I'll never use again just as sacrificial panels or maybe some guides or something like that, and it split just from clamping and sawing by hand. I find this sort of interesting. I didn't expect it to be good in the first place, but I'm wondering now if this is something I should also consider for wood that isn't known to be complete poo poo? I didn't use a vise, I used two clamps, with one each at the front end and rear end of the panel here. Some tearout might happen with dull tools and certain otherwise decent woods but nothing like that unless you're working crazy thin, no. That super long crack looks like the wood was probably just ready to go at any instant, which happens a lot more on cheap softwoods. Using IKEA materials is maximum hardmode, barely a step up from trying to make furniture from your own turds, and even ikea doesn't frequently succeed despite having entire factories of very expensive dedicated crap-processing equipment. I've had better luck salvaging stuff out of busted antiques on Craigslist and in junk piles, but it takes some practice to develop an eye for what's what especially when it's all hosed up. White/yellow pine like that is pretty easy to ID, and it shouldn't take too long to figure out when something is veneered and probably crap underneath
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Jun 5, 2021 22:16
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Good to know Fortunately it's still usable as sacrificial because it's gonna get hosed up anyway
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Jun 5, 2021 22:22
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Hey just looking for a sanity check here. Started some hand tool wood working last year, really love my no.5 Sargent plane as it is super fun to use, but chiseling seems to be excessively slow going. I've made sure this chisel is sharp, but I've been banging at this 4x4 for at least 90 minutes and have not made much progress on this mortise.  Is this material selection, since it seems like this lumber is "crushing" more than cutting, lack of experience, combo of both? Looking for a little input before I go back out to beat on this some more!
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Jun 6, 2021 01:43
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argeto posted:Hey just looking for a sanity check here. Started some hand tool wood working last year, really love my no.5 Sargent plane as it is super fun to use, but chiseling seems to be excessively slow going. What technique are you using to clear it out? I'm not hugely experienced in chisel work but from my understanding, it really matters to approach that task with the bevel working for you. From the angle on those cuts and the fact that it seems deeper toward the end, it doesn't look *to me* like it's being done with a defined process in terms of cutting through the center and sweeping out waste, but I could be wrong. So how are you doing it?
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Jun 6, 2021 01:51
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For cutting mortises, hogging out material with a drill or drill press will make your life a lot easier. You still clean things up with the chisels, but the less material they have to remove, and the shorter the fibers are that they have to deal with, the easier everything will be. Cutting the entire mortise by hand with a chisel can be done, but it's not my idea of a good time.
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Jun 6, 2021 03:05
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argeto posted:Hey just looking for a sanity check here. Started some hand tool wood working last year, really love my no.5 Sargent plane as it is super fun to use, but chiseling seems to be excessively slow going. Naw morticing by hand just fuckin sucks and it was always mindless gruntwork for apprentices to do. A real mortise chisel does make it go faster and seems to break the chip up better. Narex makes good, inexpensive ones. It looks like douglas fir which isn't the easiest stuff in the world to work by hand. Like SYP it has really hard growth rings next to really soft growth rings and that does tend to make it crush like you saw. I'm guessing from the chisel that that's a 20mm mortise which is a big mortise and will go alot slower. A Wizard of Goatse posted:lmao my local lumberyard just quoted me $10/lbf for quartersawn. I don't even like oak but the house is kinda made of it. alnilam posted:This ended up being surprisingly flat and strong for being kind of a hackjob. The rest of the project turned out awesome too. Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of, I finally got out to my local sawmill/lumberyard. They're only open 9-11 AM on the 1st and 3rd Saturday of the month which doesn't make it easy. It's a pretty cool place, the guy running it is a really nice long haired bearded dude, and all their stuff is locally felled trees so the selection can get interesting - lots of oak and sycamore plus things like hackberry, buckeye, Chinese chestnut, and mulberry that you don't see at your typical lumberyard. And due to the prevalence of oak trees in the region, oak prices range from $1.50/bf for plain sawn no 1 common to $5.50/bf for quartersawn select which is better than anywhere else I've seen.
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Jun 6, 2021 03:06
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signalnoise posted:What technique are you using to clear it out? I'm not hugely experienced in chisel work but from my understanding, it really matters to approach that task with the bevel working for you. From the angle on those cuts and the fact that it seems deeper toward the end, it doesn't look *to me* like it's being done with a defined process in terms of cutting through the center and sweeping out waste, but I could be wrong. So how are you doing it? Like everyone else said, make sure your bevel is going the right direction and some clearance cuts with a plunge router or a drill will make it much much easier to just finish with a chisel. Mortising straight with a chisel is enough of a pain that Mortising chisels used to be a major category of tool.
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Jun 6, 2021 04:31
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The junk collector posted:Like everyone else said, make sure your bevel is going the right direction and some clearance cuts with a plunge router or a drill will make it much much easier to just finish with a chisel. Mortising straight with a chisel is enough of a pain that Mortising chisels used to be a major category of tool. And well worth the money. A mortising chisel won't make cutting a mortise in fir or SYP any easier though. That's just about the most complicated wood to cut a mortise into. I bought an old mortising chisel off ebay for a coffee table (that I'm going to finally pick out a stain for!), and it made it really easy work in white oak. Were I to do it again I'd do the leg joinery differently, but this worked really well and I'm very happy with it.
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Jun 6, 2021 04:40
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I used the method here for cutting a mortise and then got a drill press. https://youtu.be/q_NXq7_TILA
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Jun 6, 2021 12:40
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That Works posted:I used the method here for cutting a mortise and then got a drill press. Ditto. Work out a V in the middle of increasing size, then clear towards the corners and finally chop straight down each end. Getting a mortise chisel is well worth the money. Mortising with a bevel edge is doable but much harder to keep straight. It's hard for me to see the scale in that photo, how wide is that mortise? My chisel is 5/16". Things get harder as you go wider.
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Jun 6, 2021 12:49
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